I recently replaced the main works inside my toilet. The toilet had been
taking too long to refill after a flush. The new insides work no better. The
package in which they came said to turn off the water, undo the interior
valve, hold a cup over it, and turn the water back on to remove sediment. I
did that and it works. For a few flushes, and then back to 30 minute
refills.
With lots of hissing and sputtering from inside the tank.

Help?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

JoeThomas wrote:

I recently replaced the main works inside my toilet. The toilet had been
taking too long to refill after a flush. The new insides work no better. The
package in which they came said to turn off the water, undo the interior
valve, hold a cup over it, and turn the water back on to remove sediment. I
did that and it works. For a few flushes, and then back to 30 minute
refills.
With lots of hissing and sputtering from inside the tank.

Help?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

You don't say, but it sounds like a Fluid Master 400A.
These use a rubber disc ("seal") which acts as a pilot-operated
valve. Clever design but very sensitive to even tiny amounts
of fine particles. If your water source contains particles
(rust, corrosion, minerals) the 400A may not be a good choice.

If that sounds like you, replace it with an old-fashioned
ball-cock (float on a long arm). These will allow great
chunks of debris through without choking.

Jim

Sounds like more sediment. Maybe flush for longer time period? Really honk
it out?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn More about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"JoeThomas" wrote in message
...
I recently replaced the main works inside my toilet. The toilet had been
taking too long to refill after a flush. The new insides work no better. The
package in which they came said to turn off the water, undo the interior
valve, hold a cup over it, and turn the water back on to remove sediment. I
did that and it works. For a few flushes, and then back to 30 minute
refills.
With lots of hissing and sputtering from inside the tank.

Help?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

Stormin how do you " really honk it out "

Put a big cup over it, turn the valve wide open. Let it honk out for several
seconds.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn More about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"mark Ransley" wrote in message
...
Stormin how do you " really honk it out "

If you've noticed a reduced flushing power of your toilet over time, I have a simple recommendation for you, something for you to check. The holes on the underside of the toilet bowl often become clogged with deposits. So what you want to use is a little handheld mirror, even a little dental mirror- although I would suggest that after you use it for this, that becomes its permanent use.

Once you detect a hole that has maybe some buildup that's preventing it from flowing properly, just cut a piece of wire coat hanger and run it up in there and clear out and obstructions that you might find. And do this all around the edge, and I think you'll see an improvement.

It may help to watch this free online video on fixing slow toilets at http://homegarden.expertvillage.com...slow-toilet.htm

I like the website http://www.expertvillage.com for free videos and tips on all sorts of DIY stuff.

erockybalboa wrote:
JoeThomas Wrote:
I recently replaced the main works inside my toilet. The toilet had been
taking too long to refill after a flush. The new insides work no better. The
package in which they came said to turn off the water, undo the interior
valve, hold a cup over it, and turn the water back on to remove sediment. I
did that and it works. For a few flushes, and then back to 30 minute
refills. With lots of hissing and sputtering from inside the tank.

If you've noticed a reduced flushing power of your toilet over time, I
have a simple recommendation for you, something for you to check.



Go back and read his complaint again. He isn't complaining about 30 minute
flushes... he's complaining about it taking 30 minutes for the tank to refill
*after * he flushes. He evidentally has scale built up within his supply line.
He needs to look at his water supply; not the toilet itself.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
...
erockybalboa wrote:
JoeThomas Wrote:
I recently replaced the main works inside my toilet. The toilet had been
taking too long to refill after a flush. The new insides work no better.
The
package in which they came said to turn off the water, undo the interior
valve, hold a cup over it, and turn the water back on to remove
sediment. I
did that and it works. For a few flushes, and then back to 30 minute
refills. With lots of hissing and sputtering from inside the tank.

If you've noticed a reduced flushing power of your toilet over time, I
have a simple recommendation for you, something for you to check.



Go back and read his complaint again. He isn't complaining about 30
minute flushes... he's complaining about it taking 30 minutes for the tank
to refill *after * he flushes. He evidentally has scale built up within
his supply line. He needs to look at his water supply; not the toilet
itself.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE



Replace the fill valve inside the tank. Several kinds available at HD.
Shouldn't cost much or take very long. Probably only need some channel lock
pliers and a screwdriver.

It's also possible that the fill valve is misadjusted. Often there is a
screw on the top which is intended to set the height of the float when it
shuts off but if it is turned way too far down, it will partially cloase the
valve even with the float all the way down in an empty tank. Turn this CCW
and see if that helps.

On Fri, 05 May 2006 20:52:11 GMT, "PipeDown"
wrote:


"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
...
erockybalboa wrote:
JoeThomas Wrote:
I recently replaced the main works inside my toilet. The toilet had been
taking too long to refill after a flush. The new insides work no better.
The
package in which they came said to turn off the water, undo the interior
valve, hold a cup over it, and turn the water back on to remove
sediment. I
did that and it works. For a few flushes, and then back to 30 minute
refills. With lots of hissing and sputtering from inside the tank.

If you've noticed a reduced flushing power of your toilet over time, I
have a simple recommendation for you, something for you to check.



Go back and read his complaint again. He isn't complaining about 30
minute flushes... he's complaining about it taking 30 minutes for the tank
to refill *after * he flushes. He evidentally has scale built up within
his supply line. He needs to look at his water supply; not the toilet
itself.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE



Replace the fill valve inside the tank. Several kinds available at HD.
Shouldn't cost much or take very long. Probably only need some channel lock
pliers and a screwdriver.

It's also possible that the fill valve is misadjusted. Often there is a
screw on the top which is intended to set the height of the float when it
shuts off but if it is turned way too far down, it will partially cloase the
valve even with the float all the way down in an empty tank. Turn this CCW
and see if that helps.

If you have replaced the flapper assembly then also check the
hole in that cyclinder looking float. Make sure it is the same
diameter as the one you replaced. It should be about 3/16".
This hole meters the water into the float slowly until it flips the
flapper over. If the hole is way too small it will take a long time to
fill because the water is just running out the bottom of the tank.

On Fri, 5 May 2006 04:22:08 +0100, erockybalboa
wrote:


JoeThomas Wrote:
I recently replaced the main works inside my toilet. The toilet had
been
taking too long to refill after a flush. The new insides work no
better. The
package in which they came said to turn off the water, undo the
interior
valve, hold a cup over it, and turn the water back on to remove
sediment. I
did that and it works. For a few flushes, and then back to 30 minute
refills.

Then do it again. You're obviously on the right track. When
something works somewhat, in most cases, you should try it again and
again as long as the results keep getting better. How long did you
hold the cup over the valve the last time? Try it for 5 times as
long. Has there been work on the water mains in your neighborhood?
Maybe there has been on your mains but you didn't see it, or its so
much closer to the water company that you didn't see it.

Maybe easier would be to just take the aerator off the sink next to
the toilet and run the water there for a long time, through a sock or
something so you can see if you are getting sediment. Run it as long
as you are finding sediment and then a few minutes longer.

Then do the toilet, but you don't have to do it 5 times as long. Just
a minute or so.

I suppose it's possible that you have clogged the new toilet valve.
This is probably that kind with a bayonet mount, right? So if the one
you just put in does't work, it's real easy to remove this one and put
in a third one, after all this line flushing. If the third one
doesn't work any better, save the 2nd one and you can use it in 10 or
15 years when the new one wears out. Because eventually you're going
to fix this.

BTW, you have watched it flush and fill, with the tank lid off, right?
You should do that, over and over if you're not sure what's happening.
I doubt any water will spray out the top, but if it does, that's a
problem you should know about.

With lots of hissing and sputtering from inside the tank.

Help?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

Regardless of your needs, installing a new toilet or replacing one that has seen better days is relatively easy. There are just a few steps and it can all be completed in one day.


Selecting a new toilet



In most states across the Untied States, new toilets must allow for only one and a half gallons of water to flush at one time. This not only saves the environment with every flush, it also saves you each month with your water bill. You will find that most community building codes also require these new toilets. It is always best to check with your local community before installing the new toilet. The only thing left is to choose a style or color that best suits your family, needs and interior design scheme of your bathroom.


Getting started


If you are installing a new toilet in a new location where one did not exist before you can skip this part. Replacing an old toilet has only a couple of extra steps from installing a toilet in a new location.


Before you try to remove the old toilet, you need to be sure the water has been shut off. Behind the toilet (and sometimes hidden in the base cabinet adjacent to the toilet) is the water shut off valve. If you remember the old phrase, “Lefty Lucy – Righty Tighty”, you will be able to know which way to turn the valve to cut off the water supply. Turn to the right to close the valve. You will need to be sure the water is turned off and you will need to empty the tank, so flush the toilet twice. This helps to ensure you got most of the water out. There will be a bit of remaining water in the tank so have towels or news paper on the floor to help mop up the water when the tank is removed.


Removing the old tank


Follow the water supply cut off valve to the tank of the toilet. Take an adjustable wrench and clamp it onto the outside supply tubing on the coupling nut. With a pair of rib joint pliers, inside the tank, grab the other nut and turn left to loosen. You may need to hold the outside nut and adjustable wrench with your other hand to stabilize.


Once you have the water supply disconnected, it is time to remove the tank. With the same technique you just used to remove the supply line, you need to hold the mounting bolt nut under the tank, while inside the tank you unscrew the mounting bolt from the main body of the toilet. This will release the tank. Simply set the tank on the floor with some form of cushion to protect your flooring. Newspaper or old towels will do just fine.


Next you will need to remove the floor bolts that hold the main toilet body to the floor. Once you have these off, it is time to pull the toilet off the floor. The toilet is attached not only by the floor bolts, but also by adhesive. You will need to rock the toilet back and forth while leaning it forward to pry it loose.


Once the old toilet has been removed stuff a rag into the exposed pipe. This helps keep the sewer gasses from entering the room and keeps objects from falling into it. You can use a paint scraper or any flat tool to scrape the old adhesive remains from the floor and pipe gasket. Try to clean as well as possible as this will help with better adhesion for the new toilet.


Installing a new toilet


If you are installing a new fixture where there was no fixture before, supply line pipes will need to be installed. You will need to call a professional plumber to do this for you as it is very involved and dangerous. Once you have the pipes installed, installing the new fixture is a snap!


Lay some newspaper or old towels on the floor. Flip the new fixture over and lay down on the paper or towel to protect your flooring and to expose the underside. The underside of the toilet will have a hole, called a horn. This is where the water leaves the toilet to the sewer. You need to place a new wax gasket on this horn. Most new toilets come with this wax gasket.


Flip the bowl back over and place the horn of the toilet into the floor pipe. Rocking it back and forth will help insure of a good fit. Once you have the toilet bowl in place, you will need to level it while attaching the floor bolts at the same time. To do this, place the bolts through the holes into the floor loosely. With a level on top of the bowl, slowly tighten the floor bolts. You want the bowl to be tight to the floor, but not too tight as to crack the porcelain of the bowl. If you are unable to level the bowl and have the floor bolts tight at the same time, you may need small plastic shims to level the bow.


Attaching the tank



Some new toilets are one piece, meaning the tank and the bowl are not separated into two parts. However traditionally toilets do have a separate tank. Attaching the tank is even easier than the bowl.


Your new toilet will come with a flush valve, this is the mechanical contraption that fits inside your tank that attaches to the handle outside of the tank, and flushes the water. Assemble this according to the manufacturer instructions and attach inside your tank before installing the tank.


Your tank should come with a mounting cushion. This is a rubber piece that is laid under the tank to protect the tank from rubbing against the bowl, subsequently cracking either one. Lay the tank onto the bowl, being careful to position the two bolt holes over the matching holes underneath. Insert the mounting bolts and tighten. There may be gaps where your mounting bolts are, so you will need to fill any gaps with plumber’s putty, available at any hardware store.


The only thing left is to hook up the water supply. Take the water supply line and screw to the bottom of the tank. Turn the water supply valve back on and flush! Congratulations! You have just installed your first toilet!

For more DIY info:
http://www.essortment.com/in/HowTo.General/index.htm