The house we're buying is one of the last ones in the neighborhood
that hasn't had the siding updated, so I'd like some tips on siding
over the asbestos shingles. Here's what I was thinking - please tell
me where I'm wrong (there will be plenty of opportunity, I'm sure).

My first thought was to go directly over the asbestos siding with
vertical sheets of board-and-batten type T1-11. Would I need a
moisture barrier underneath the T1-11?

My other thought was to cover the asbestos siding with 1/4 inch
plywood, then go back with a lap siding. Moisture barrier?

What else should I look at that is INEXPENSIVE other than vinyl?

Also, how will the added thickness of the siding affect the windows
and doors? Do they need to be removed back to the rough opening and
then reinstalled after the siding is on?

Dumb questions, I know. I haven't done any siding before, but I really
want to do this myself. Sweat equity is a wonderful thing if the job
is done right.

Thanks,
Brent

Please be aware that the asbestos shingles are like glass. The break
readily when hammering things into them. When we had our siding done, I had
the contractor remove the shingles and properly dispose of them. A neighbor
did not and could hear the shingles breaking and sliding down as the siding
was installed. This obviously affected how evenly the wall was insulated
even with Celotex in place. It may have had an impact due to gaps between
the siding and the wall.

Good Luck.

"Brent Barkow" wrote in message
om...
The house we're buying is one of the last ones in the neighborhood
that hasn't had the siding updated, so I'd like some tips on siding
over the asbestos shingles. Here's what I was thinking - please tell
me where I'm wrong (there will be plenty of opportunity, I'm sure).

My first thought was to go directly over the asbestos siding with
vertical sheets of board-and-batten type T1-11. Would I need a
moisture barrier underneath the T1-11?

My other thought was to cover the asbestos siding with 1/4 inch
plywood, then go back with a lap siding. Moisture barrier?

What else should I look at that is INEXPENSIVE other than vinyl?

Also, how will the added thickness of the siding affect the windows
and doors? Do they need to be removed back to the rough opening and
then reinstalled after the siding is on?

Dumb questions, I know. I haven't done any siding before, but I really
want to do this myself. Sweat equity is a wonderful thing if the job
is done right.

Thanks,
Brent

On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 12:17:24 -0400, Baron wrote:

Please be aware that the asbestos shingles are like glass. The break
readily when hammering things into them. When we had our siding done, I
had the contractor remove the shingles and properly dispose of them. A
neighbor did not and could hear the shingles breaking and sliding down as
the siding was installed. This obviously affected how evenly the wall was
insulated even with Celotex in place. It may have had an impact due to
gaps between the siding and the wall.

Good Luck.

I would second this. The shingles should be removed. Having just done
this myself, I was surprised that, at least around here, the asbestos
disposal wasn't that big a deal. They had to be double bagged in special
garbage bags, and sent to an approved dump at @ twice the cost of regular
garbage. If doing this yourself, check with your local regulations and
wear an approved respirator. The finished job will be superior and
actually easier to complete.

Dude -- I hope you enjoyed asking those questions, cuz I'll bet that
you're gonna really hate the answers.

Asbestos shingles are almost as brittle as glass. It is impossible to
drive a nail or screw through them without shattering the shingle --
unless you drill a hole first. But of course, drilling the stuff
causes LOTS of harmful dust, so don't do it. And if you just go ahead
and hammer away, you'll have lots of asbestos in the air, and a lot to
dispose of. Got a permit for that?

My advice would be to have a conversation with the local building
inspector's office. Tell talk to them about what can and can't be
done. Ask what has been done there in the past on other houses. Maybe
from that, you'll have an idea.

Until a few years ago, I owned a house with asbestos shingles. Biggest
pain I ever dealt with, even if they weren't carcinogenic. You can't
repair or replace them, can't widen a window or door, can't properly
add a deck. All in all, I think you're gonna hate them.

Best wishes,


Vast Projects Should not be Founded on Half Vast Ideas.


(Brent Barkow) wrote in message . com...
The house we're buying is one of the last ones in the neighborhood
that hasn't had the siding updated, so I'd like some tips on siding
over the asbestos shingles. Here's what I was thinking - please tell
me where I'm wrong (there will be plenty of opportunity, I'm sure).

My first thought was to go directly over the asbestos siding with
vertical sheets of board-and-batten type T1-11. Would I need a
moisture barrier underneath the T1-11?

My other thought was to cover the asbestos siding with 1/4 inch
plywood, then go back with a lap siding. Moisture barrier?

What else should I look at that is INEXPENSIVE other than vinyl?

Also, how will the added thickness of the siding affect the windows
and doors? Do they need to be removed back to the rough opening and
then reinstalled after the siding is on?

Dumb questions, I know. I haven't done any siding before, but I really
want to do this myself. Sweat equity is a wonderful thing if the job
is done right.

Thanks,
Brent

(Brent Barkow) wrote in message . com...
The house we're buying is one of the last ones in the neighborhood
that hasn't had the siding updated, so I'd like some tips on siding
over the asbestos shingles. Here's what I was thinking - please tell
me where I'm wrong (there will be plenty of opportunity, I'm sure).

My first thought was to go directly over the asbestos siding with
vertical sheets of board-and-batten type T1-11. Would I need a
moisture barrier underneath the T1-11?

My other thought was to cover the asbestos siding with 1/4 inch
plywood, then go back with a lap siding. Moisture barrier?

What else should I look at that is INEXPENSIVE other than vinyl?

Also, how will the added thickness of the siding affect the windows
and doors? Do they need to be removed back to the rough opening and
then reinstalled after the siding is on?

Dumb questions, I know. I haven't done any siding before, but I really
want to do this myself. Sweat equity is a wonderful thing if the job
is done right.

Thanks,
Brent


Yes, you do want to remove it first. I too removed my own siding last
summer and the stuff breaks very easily. For me the dump fees were the
same as for regular garbage. My 3500 sq. ft. house had 5300 pounds of
asbestos siding on it. I did have to double bag it in 6 mil plastic
and tape in cardboard box. If you have someone remove it make sure you
get copies of the receipts from the waste disposal station so you know
it is dumped correctly.

I would advise against T1-11. Not only does it look bad but it rots
quickly. I would also stay away from vinyl siding. It makes the house
look like plastic. Also, if you have a problem 5 years from now with a
leak or something it can be a big problem if you need to get under
that stuff. For me there was the original redwood siding underneath
the asbestos. If I were you I would check out Hardi siding. It is a
composite cement siding that looks like wood. It comes in several
different profiles and comes with something like a 75 year warranty. I
built a shed out of it a few years ago and it was cheaper than T1-11.

Greg

I would advise against T1-11. Not only does it look bad but it rots
quickly. I would also stay away from vinyl siding. It makes the house
look like plastic. Also, if you have a problem 5 years from now with a
leak or something it can be a big problem if you need to get under
that stuff. For me there was the original redwood siding underneath
the asbestos. If I were you I would check out Hardi siding. It is a
composite cement siding that looks like wood. It comes in several
different profiles and comes with something like a 75 year warranty. I
built a shed out of it a few years ago and it was cheaper than T1-11.

My house was built in 1972 with the T111 sheets and I haven't had a problem
with it. Like other siding out there, you DO have to care for it, caulking
and painting as necessary.

I built my shed out of T111 because I liked the look of it.

May I ask why you want to remove the asbestos siding? Is it falling
apart?
Keeping it and painting over it if needs new paint has a great
advantage in that you have a siding that will easily outlast anything
else you'd put up in its place. I have asbestos and I just finished
painting it & it looks really nice. I went from a darker, gray color
to cream color and it took a huge amount of paint but it was worth
doing. I don't expect to have to paint it again for another 10 -15
years.

On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 12:17:24 -0400, Baron wrote:
Please be aware that the asbestos shingles are like glass.
snip

thunder wrote
I would second this. The shingles should be removed.
snip


Thanks for the advice. I've been trying to find out from the city what
the regs are to remove the tile. This is a small town and nobody seems
to know. The state hasn't returned my email yet.

I've also been doing a lot of reading and asking around, and opinion
seems to be split as to whether to remove or leave on. I was really
REALLY hoping to avoid the hassle and expense of removing it. Surely
there's a way to get through the tiles without shattering them.

I guess if I have to take it off, I have to take it off....but if
there are any alternatives I'd sure like to hear about them.

Thanks again,
Brent

"HeatMan" wrote in message link.net...
I would advise against T1-11. Not only does it look bad but it rots
quickly. I would also stay away from vinyl siding. It makes the house
look like plastic. Also, if you have a problem 5 years from now with a
leak or something it can be a big problem if you need to get under
that stuff. For me there was the original redwood siding underneath
the asbestos. If I were you I would check out Hardi siding. It is a
composite cement siding that looks like wood. It comes in several
different profiles and comes with something like a 75 year warranty. I
built a shed out of it a few years ago and it was cheaper than T1-11.

My house was built in 1972 with the T111 sheets and I haven't had a problem
with it. Like other siding out there, you DO have to care for it, caulking
and painting as necessary.

I built my shed out of T111 because I liked the look of it.

I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I don't happen to like
it. I do know there was a class action suit against a manufacturer of
T1-11 and they lost. I don't know the details of it and I never looked
in to it. I do know that my house built in 1895 and had little or no
maintance on it (a rental for 89 years) and the siding is in great
shape. It was under asbestos siding for 4 or 5 decades. Your guess is
as good as mine as to whether that helped or hurt.

Class Action Suit
http://www.masoniteclaims.com/masonite/index.html

Greg

"Brent Barkow" wrote in message
om...
The house we're buying is one of the last ones in the neighborhood
that hasn't had the siding updated, so I'd like some tips on siding
over the asbestos shingles. Here's what I was thinking - please tell
me where I'm wrong (there will be plenty of opportunity, I'm sure).

My first thought was to go directly over the asbestos siding with
vertical sheets of board-and-batten type T1-11. Would I need a
moisture barrier underneath the T1-11?

My other thought was to cover the asbestos siding with 1/4 inch
plywood, then go back with a lap siding. Moisture barrier?

What else should I look at that is INEXPENSIVE other than vinyl?

Also, how will the added thickness of the siding affect the windows
and doors? Do they need to be removed back to the rough opening and
then reinstalled after the siding is on?

Dumb questions, I know. I haven't done any siding before, but I really
want to do this myself. Sweat equity is a wonderful thing if the job
is done right.

Thanks,
Brent

one method that works to cover asbestos siding.

Install strapping or 3" strips of 3/4 plywood vertically with tapcon screws.
install over existing studs (screw where the bottoms of the asbestos siding
lap).
then install new siding.

(T1-11 would not be my 1st choice)
the cap flashing in between sheets is very tacky to look at on a house.

A good paint job could past you 25 years and you will not have to deal with
any of the headaches or expense you're now looking at. Who cares if your
house doesn't look exactly like the neighbors...
"Brent Barkow" wrote in message
om...
The house we're buying is one of the last ones in the neighborhood
that hasn't had the siding updated, so I'd like some tips on siding
over the asbestos shingles. Here's what I was thinking - please tell
me where I'm wrong (there will be plenty of opportunity, I'm sure).

My first thought was to go directly over the asbestos siding with
vertical sheets of board-and-batten type T1-11. Would I need a
moisture barrier underneath the T1-11?

My other thought was to cover the asbestos siding with 1/4 inch
plywood, then go back with a lap siding. Moisture barrier?

What else should I look at that is INEXPENSIVE other than vinyl?

Also, how will the added thickness of the siding affect the windows
and doors? Do they need to be removed back to the rough opening and
then reinstalled after the siding is on?

Dumb questions, I know. I haven't done any siding before, but I really
want to do this myself. Sweat equity is a wonderful thing if the job
is done right.

Thanks,
Brent

"Genemy" wrote in message ...

one method that works to cover asbestos siding.

Install strapping or 3" strips of 3/4 plywood vertically with tapcon screws.
install over existing studs (screw where the bottoms of the asbestos siding
lap).
then install new siding.

(T1-11 would not be my 1st choice)
the cap flashing in between sheets is very tacky to look at on a house.

I'm going to check out all of this advice further. I wanted to get
started in the spring, so I have some time.

As far as the T1-11, what I was actually looking at was the
HardiPanel. I guess I was mistaken and thought that it was T1-11, when
actually it was something else.

Thanks again everybody,
Brent

I have installed aluminum siding directly over asbestos siding, no strips,
no problem. Aluminum siding and vinyl siding are nailed loose enough for
them to slide with expansion/contraction and are interlocked, looks and
works fine.

Walt Conner

"Baron" wrote in message
...
Please be aware that the asbestos shingles are like glass. The break
readily when hammering things into them. When we had our siding done, I
had
the contractor remove the shingles and properly dispose of them. A
neighbor
did not and could hear the shingles breaking and sliding down as the
siding
was installed.

Okay, so here's my next invention idea.

Someone should invent or produce a Tyvek-type sheeting with a sticky/glue
side for use in this type of job. The Tyvek sheets could then be adhered to
the asbestos siding before doing the aluminum or vinyl siding installation.
The sheeting would provide an added layer of insulation and a moisture
barrier, and would keep the asbestos shingles from dropping down when
cracked during the installation of the aluminum or vinyl siding. Homeowners
get to keep the insulation value of the original asbestos siding, don't have
to worry about the time and expense of removing the old asbestos shingles,
don't have to worry about the cost of disposing the old asbestos shingles,
and create less of an asbestos hazard because the asbestos is being
encapsulated in place instead of being broken up and removed and transported
elsewhere.

"and would keep the asbestos shingles from dropping down when
cracked during the installation of the aluminum or vinyl siding"

Actually, I drilled the shingles for nails so they would not crack. Hard on
bits and time consuming.

Walt Conner

On 21 Oct 2003 13:23:47 -0700, (YesMaam27577)
wrote:

Dude -- I hope you enjoyed asking those questions, cuz I'll bet that
you're gonna really hate the answers.

Asbestos shingles are almost as brittle as glass. It is impossible to
drive a nail or screw through them without shattering the shingle --
unless you drill a hole first. But of course, drilling the stuff
causes LOTS of harmful dust, so don't do it. And if you just go ahead
and hammer away, you'll have lots of asbestos in the air, and a lot to
dispose of. Got a permit for that?

My advice would be to have a conversation with the local building
inspector's office. Tell talk to them about what can and can't be
done. Ask what has been done there in the past on other houses. Maybe
from that, you'll have an idea.

Until a few years ago, I owned a house with asbestos shingles. Biggest
pain I ever dealt with, even if they weren't carcinogenic. You can't
repair or replace them, can't widen a window or door, can't properly
add a deck. All in all, I think you're gonna hate them.

Best wishes,



Why do you think that you can't repair or replace them?

GAF Building Products still makes asbestos siding replacement
shingles. Thye have exactly the same size and style as the originals.
The only exception is that the asbestos has been taken out.

In my area Barco Supply - a roofing/siding distributer with many
branches around the country distributes the GAF replacement shingles.

As other posters have said, a good paint job will last MANY years on
asbestos siding.

Doug

How about using a nail gun at a low PSI so the nail stick out a little.
This would allow the siding to move, as it should? Nail guns will not crack
the siding....

replying to Genemy, Connie wrote:
Do you have to predrill the holes for the screws for the plywood?

--
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