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Andrew September 2nd 03 11:34 PM

Disconnecting Cast Iron tubing
 
Hi, I need to move my toilet for a bathroom renovation, and this
requires moving the soil line from the toilet to the stack. Both the
stack and run to the toilet are cast iron. The opening I've made in
the floor boards will not accomodate a large pipe cracker, so I
thought I'd try and simply disconnect the line from the toilet to the
stack and replace it with ABS or PVC. The current joint is lead over
oakum, I assume. Can I just melt the lead, chisel out the oakum and
disconnect the pipes? And assuming this is possible, can I connect
the plastic with the cast iron easily using a no-hub coupling? (the
branch coming off of the stack is the bell-end, so it's wider than the
4-inch pipe. Is there an adapter I can get from a plumbing
supplier? Thanks so much for any help you can offer.

Andrew

Speedy Jim September 2nd 03 11:44 PM

Disconnecting Cast Iron tubing
 
Andrew wrote:

Hi, I need to move my toilet for a bathroom renovation, and this
requires moving the soil line from the toilet to the stack. Both the
stack and run to the toilet are cast iron. The opening I've made in
the floor boards will not accomodate a large pipe cracker, so I
thought I'd try and simply disconnect the line from the toilet to the
stack and replace it with ABS or PVC. The current joint is lead over
oakum, I assume. Can I just melt the lead, chisel out the oakum and
disconnect the pipes? And assuming this is possible, can I connect
the plastic with the cast iron easily using a no-hub coupling? (the
branch coming off of the stack is the bell-end, so it's wider than the
4-inch pipe. Is there an adapter I can get from a plumbing
supplier? Thanks so much for any help you can offer.

Andrew


It will take a lot of heat (torch) to melt that lead.
If you can get a drill in there, use a long bit to
"swiss-cheese" the lead. When you put enough holes
in it, you'll be able to pry it out and then the Oakum.

Yes, there is an adapter to fit the bell; it's called
a "donut". Clean the inside of the bell carefully to
get rid of any scale. A little sealant on the clean
surface will help prevent leaks.

Jim

Dan G September 2nd 03 11:53 PM

Disconnecting Cast Iron tubing
 
You will need to cut the cast iron.

You will either need to make a large enough hole for a chain cutter, or
a sawsall. If you go with the Sawsall, you will need to purchase a
carbide grit edge blade. They are very slow. You might want to buy
two, return #2 if you don't use it. Did I tell you that they are very
slow? Once cut, Fernco adapters will finish the job.

--


Keep the whole world singing. . .
Dan G

(remove the 7)




Andrew wrote:
Hi, I need to move my toilet for a bathroom renovation, and this
requires moving the soil line from the toilet to the stack. Both the
stack and run to the toilet are cast iron. The opening I've made in
the floor boards will not accomodate a large pipe cracker, so I
thought I'd try and simply disconnect the line from the toilet to the
stack and replace it with ABS or PVC. The current joint is lead over
oakum, I assume. Can I just melt the lead, chisel out the oakum and
disconnect the pipes? And assuming this is possible, can I connect
the plastic with the cast iron easily using a no-hub coupling? (the
branch coming off of the stack is the bell-end, so it's wider than the
4-inch pipe. Is there an adapter I can get from a plumbing
supplier? Thanks so much for any help you can offer.

Andrew





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