Parquet flooring pro's needed
 

Here's the situation - I laid 32 sq. ft. of 12" x 12" parquet flooring tiles
this weekend. Mfgr's instruction stated it needed to be glued (I used the
appropriate glue and trowel). It also stated to leave a 1/4" gap around the
walls which I did for expansion. Don't understand how it would expand if it
was glued down - but I did it anyway. I laid this same floor in my master
bedroom 4 weeks ago and no problems. It is tongue and grooved on all sides.
I woke up this morning and have a ridge down the middle of the floor which
buckled and raised almost an inch. I'm thinnking the wood expanded alright
.. . . now how to deal with it. My first thought since I can stand on it and
it lays down okay was to make an attempt to inject glue into the bottom
somehow and weight it down. However, if it really is expansion, it will
happen again somewhere else. What do you think? Take my circular saw set
at a very low depth and make a relief and then glue back down? Need some
suggestions from the pros.

Thanks

Jim Mc Namara

Parquet flooring pro's needed
 

"Jim Mc Namara" wrote in message

Here's the situation - I laid 32 sq. ft. of 12" x 12" parquet flooring
tiles
this weekend. Mfgr's instruction stated it needed to be glued (I used
the
appropriate glue and trowel). It also stated to leave a 1/4" gap
around the
walls which I did for expansion. Don't understand how it would expand
if it
was glued down - but I did it anyway. I laid this same floor in my
master
bedroom 4 weeks ago and no problems. It is tongue and grooved on all
sides.
I woke up this morning and have a ridge down the middle of the floor
which
buckled and raised almost an inch. I'm thinnking the wood expanded
alright
. . . now how to deal with it. My first thought since I can stand on
it and
it lays down okay was to make an attempt to inject glue into the
bottom
somehow and weight it down. However, if it really is expansion, it
will
happen again somewhere else. What do you think? Take my circular saw
set
at a very low depth and make a relief and then glue back down? Need
some
suggestions from the pros.

Thanks

Jim Mc Namara

First thing comes to mind, the flooring wasn't acclimated to the same
environment 72-96 hrs. b/4, or the time period recommended by the
manufacturer. Sometimes people keep the material in a different room,
which is not acceptable. Or they stand material in the corner. It must
acclimate in the room the flooring is to be laid, and laid flat prior to
installing.

Is this over a wood substrate?

Parquet flooring pro's needed
 

No Red - it's over a concrete slab. The slab was "dusty dry" and I primed
it as per the mfgr's recommendations and allowed it to dry and cure for 3
days. When I took the tiles home, I opened each box removing them and
allowing them to sit in the same ambient temperature they would be installed
in during the same 3 day period. I'm baffled as to the cause - but the cure
(other than removing) is my biggest concern. I'm thinking of either cutting
a kerf down a seam and injecting adhesive and weighting down the area or
drilling a series of small holes and injecting. I can plug the holes (I'm a
woodworker) where they will be unnoticeable but was wondering if anyone else
had to do this. The customer service line was of no help (Remove and
replace).

Thanks

Jim




"Red" wrote in message:
First thing comes to mind, the flooring wasn't acclimated to the same
environment 72-96 hrs. b/4, or the time period recommended by the
manufacturer. Sometimes people keep the material in a different room,
which is not acceptable. Or they stand material in the corner. It must
acclimate in the room the flooring is to be laid, and laid flat prior to
installing.

Is this over a wood substrate?

Parquet flooring pro's needed
 

Sounds like moisture in the slab. Did you do a moisture test?

Repairing the wood will do nothing on a wet slab.

M Hamlin
"Red" wrote in message
...

"Jim Mc Namara" wrote
No Red - it's over a concrete slab. The slab was "dusty dry" and I
primed
it as per the mfgr's recommendations and allowed it to dry and cure
for 3
days. When I took the tiles home, I opened each box removing them and
allowing them to sit in the same ambient temperature they would be
installed
in during the same 3 day period. I'm baffled as to the cause - but
the cure
(other than removing) is my biggest concern. I'm thinking of either
cutting
a kerf down a seam and injecting adhesive and weighting down the area
or
drilling a series of small holes and injecting. I can plug the holes
(I'm a
woodworker) where they will be unnoticeable but was wondering if
anyone else
had to do this. The customer service line was of no help (Remove and
replace).

Thanks

Jim

The cause would be a guesstimate of moisture.

Now the fix is, since you are a woodworker, you should be familiar with
_loose tongue_ and a router. A bit of a project, kinda hard to explain
over the net. You can remove the damaged pieces (drill 1/4" from
corners, mark area one inch in all way around, saw cut, WATCH the
depth)you won't be able to reuse,errrrrrrr maybe you will. Route new or
old pieces a fraction to give you expansion room. Need a milling tool
for router for existing floor you didn't remove, glue in loose tongue,
cut undersides of new pieces, put into place to check. Paper drywall
tape will be used for shims. Dry fit, remove, glue to the loose tongue,
since this is a glue down application.

This is a real real rough description on how repairs are done.