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tflfb
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint

I have to replaced the concrete expansion joint a couple of times in my
driveway where it meets the street.

Its made of a asphalt material, but it rots away over the years.

What is I remove the asphalt and instead of using that again, I use this
spray foam they use to insulate, it comes in a spray can dries in a few
mins.

Thanks Tom.


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mark Ransley
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint

the spray foam is not UV stable is soft and will deteriorate in a year
of so, maybe use silicon caulk, or dont worry about it

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JTM
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint


the spray foam is gonna get hard after you spray it and then when it is
compressed by the expansion of the joint it will be crushed and not go
back to its original position... the original stuff is tar impregnated
felt and seems to work OK until after it dries up.. how about a pressure
treated board with tar on it?????


The whole point of the expansion joint filler is to allow the concrete to expand
and contract and to maintain a water resistant seal so the soil is protected
from losing its bearing capacity. Putting a rigid piece of wood in place of the
felt would either cause the wood to be crushed or the concrete to spall under
the pressure. Stick with elastic material designed for the task.

Regards,

John


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Rich
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint

tflfb wrote, wondering if this is really what he meant?

I have to replaced the concrete expansion joint a couple of times in my
driveway where it meets the street.

Its made of a asphalt material, but it rots away over the years.

What is I remove the asphalt and instead of using that again, I use this
spray foam they use to insulate, it comes in a spray can dries in a few
mins.

Thanks Tom.


The spray foam will fall apart over time once it's exposed to the sun. The
UV rays break it down. It may last for a little while.

Good luck,
Rich
--
You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK.
Atten: Micro$oft Outlook users, please take me
off of your address books!
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Ermalina
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint

tflfb wrote:

I have to replaced the concrete expansion joint a couple of times in my
driveway where it meets the street.

Its made of a asphalt material, but it rots away over the years.

What is I remove the asphalt and instead of using that again, I use this
spray foam they use to insulate, it comes in a spray can dries in a few
mins.

Thanks Tom.


I've had good results using backer rod and then sealing with
[self-leveling] polyurethane caulk.

BTW, I believe the quality of the backer rod from building supply store
is better than that sold in big box stores.


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George E. Cawthon
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint



JTM wrote:

the spray foam is gonna get hard after you spray it and then when it is
compressed by the expansion of the joint it will be crushed and not go
back to its original position... the original stuff is tar impregnated
felt and seems to work OK until after it dries up.. how about a pressure
treated board with tar on it?????


The whole point of the expansion joint filler is to allow the concrete to expand
and contract and to maintain a water resistant seal so the soil is protected
from losing its bearing capacity. Putting a rigid piece of wood in place of the
felt would either cause the wood to be crushed or the concrete to spall under
the pressure. Stick with elastic material designed for the task.

Regards,

John


You are wrong about the wood. Wood 2x4's are commonly used
to fill expansion joints in new concrete driveways. The
main problem is shrinkage and warpage of the wood. You
don't see crushed wood and you don't see spalling caused by
the pressure
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JTM
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint

You are wrong about the wood. Wood 2x4's are commonly used
to fill expansion joints in new concrete driveways. The
main problem is shrinkage and warpage of the wood. You
don't see crushed wood and you don't see spalling caused by
the pressure


Just because someone uses a hammer to drive a scew doesn't make a good practice.
I see evidence of improper installations and poor workmanship all the time, but
it doesn't matter how many times something is botched up or the number of people
doing it--it is still shoddy practice. The fact that you don't see evidence of
damage merely means that in the cases you have observed either the temperature
range is not very extreme or the slab is free to move on the opposite end. And
unless pressure treated wood is used the termites would make quick work of it,
at least in my area they would.

Regards,

John


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George E. Cawthon
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint



JTM wrote:

You are wrong about the wood. Wood 2x4's are commonly used
to fill expansion joints in new concrete driveways. The
main problem is shrinkage and warpage of the wood. You
don't see crushed wood and you don't see spalling caused by
the pressure


Just because someone uses a hammer to drive a scew doesn't make a good practice.
I see evidence of improper installations and poor workmanship all the time, but
it doesn't matter how many times something is botched up or the number of people
doing it--it is still shoddy practice. The fact that you don't see evidence of
damage merely means that in the cases you have observed either the temperature
range is not very extreme or the slab is free to move on the opposite end. And
unless pressure treated wood is used the termites would make quick work of it,
at least in my area they would.

Regards,

John


You have a point, however the screw and hammer is not a good
analogy to the wood expansion joint. In some part of the
country wood expansion joints are common and standard
practice, the screw and hammer is neither common nor a
standard practice. Oh, I thing -30 to 110 is a pretty
extreme range temperature range. And, termites are pretty
uncommon here, although based on the termite/pest control
companies a person moving to the area might be mislead. I
have never lived in a house and seen only one house (and
that may be suspect) that had some minor evidence of
termites. Untreated cedar in full contact with the soil or
buried commonly last 15-20 years here, and the untreated
(probably fir) expansion joints of my driveway have lasted
for 25 years and are still solid We just don't have
termites.

OTOH, tar/asphalt as a major ingredient (in fiber board or
other) is much more common for many types of
expansion/contraction joints and is certainly superior to
wood. A new common practice here for driveways is to pour
large surfaces as a block and then cut them with diamond
saws and caulk the saw cut.

All of this is probably minor compare to the common home
construction practice here of not making any provision for
curing concrete. I have regularly watched the construction
practices in subdivisions here and have only occassionally
seen any driveway covered with anything. Footings for crawl
spaces are commonly poured, the concrete not covered, and
the forms removed in 2 days. I have never seen the
foundation walls covered and the forms are often removed in
24 hours, and never left more than 48 hours unless it is a
holiday. Those foundations are poured in weather as hot as
100 degrees and as cold as 25 degrees with no provision for
maintaining moisture or preventing freezing.
  #9   Report Post  
Art Begun
 
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Default Concrete expansion joint

My parents had treated lumber expansion joints used 20 years ago and
both the wood and slab are just fine (Long Island area).



"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...


JTM wrote:

You are wrong about the wood. Wood 2x4's are commonly used
to fill expansion joints in new concrete driveways. The
main problem is shrinkage and warpage of the wood. You
don't see crushed wood and you don't see spalling caused by
the pressure


Just because someone uses a hammer to drive a scew doesn't make a

good practice.
I see evidence of improper installations and poor workmanship all

the time, but
it doesn't matter how many times something is botched up or the

number of people
doing it--it is still shoddy practice. The fact that you don't

see evidence of
damage merely means that in the cases you have observed either the

temperature
range is not very extreme or the slab is free to move on the

opposite end. And
unless pressure treated wood is used the termites would make quick

work of it,
at least in my area they would.

Regards,

John


You have a point, however the screw and hammer is not a good
analogy to the wood expansion joint. In some part of the
country wood expansion joints are common and standard
practice, the screw and hammer is neither common nor a
standard practice. Oh, I thing -30 to 110 is a pretty
extreme range temperature range. And, termites are pretty
uncommon here, although based on the termite/pest control
companies a person moving to the area might be mislead. I
have never lived in a house and seen only one house (and
that may be suspect) that had some minor evidence of
termites. Untreated cedar in full contact with the soil or
buried commonly last 15-20 years here, and the untreated
(probably fir) expansion joints of my driveway have lasted
for 25 years and are still solid We just don't have
termites.

OTOH, tar/asphalt as a major ingredient (in fiber board or
other) is much more common for many types of
expansion/contraction joints and is certainly superior to
wood. A new common practice here for driveways is to pour
large surfaces as a block and then cut them with diamond
saws and caulk the saw cut.

All of this is probably minor compare to the common home
construction practice here of not making any provision for
curing concrete. I have regularly watched the construction
practices in subdivisions here and have only occassionally
seen any driveway covered with anything. Footings for crawl
spaces are commonly poured, the concrete not covered, and
the forms removed in 2 days. I have never seen the
foundation walls covered and the forms are often removed in
24 hours, and never left more than 48 hours unless it is a
holiday. Those foundations are poured in weather as hot as
100 degrees and as cold as 25 degrees with no provision for
maintaining moisture or preventing freezing.



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