Questions about procedure for installing Honeywell V8043E Zone Valves
 

I have a Honeywell V8043E zone valve that I need to replace.
Unfortunately, it has the older style seat, so I can't just pull the
motor assembly off. The Honeywell instructions say that I have to
drain the system before I can remove the seat. However, I have also
been told that if I have shut off valves before the zone valves that,
instead, I can shut these off, install the valves and then turn the
water supply back on. When I inquired about air in the system, I was
told that the autovent should take care of this. I do have an autovent
in my heater system.

Whose advice is correct? Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks;

James M Wiedle

Questions about procedure for installing Honeywell V8043E Zone Valves
 

On 22 Aug 2003 19:49:37 -0700, (James M Wiedle)
wrote:

I have a Honeywell V8043E zone valve that I need to replace.
Unfortunately, it has the older style seat, so I can't just pull the
motor assembly off. The Honeywell instructions say that I have to
drain the system before I can remove the seat. However, I have also
been told that if I have shut off valves before the zone valves that,
instead, I can shut these off, install the valves and then turn the
water supply back on. When I inquired about air in the system, I was
told that the autovent should take care of this. I do have an autovent
in my heater system.

Whose advice is correct? Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks;

James M Wiedle

If you have shut off valves that isolate that zone, you can just drain
the one zone and do the repair. If you don't have a drain connection
for each zone it will make a mess when you pull the zone valve and the
water drains out of the zone piping. I usually turn off the make-up
water supply as well, although not really necessary if the shut-offs
work well. You will have to bleed the radiator(s) on that zone to
remove the bulk of the air. The autovent can only vent air that
reaches it. Generally, when you drain a zone, air will be trapped in
the highest point of that zone (usually the radiator). After you do
your repair, turn the make up water back on if necessary, open the
isolation shut offs, and then (with the circulator off) open the
bleeds on the affected radiator(s) until you get steady water flow
with no hissing and bubbling. Then you're good to go. It's usually a
good idea to bleed the radiator again a few days later to release any
residual trapped air.

HTH,

Paul

Questions about procedure for installing Honeywell V8043E Zone Valves
 

On 22 Aug 2003 19:49:37 -0700, (James M Wiedle)
wrote:

I have a Honeywell V8043E zone valve that I need to replace.
Unfortunately, it has the older style seat, so I can't just pull the
motor assembly off. The Honeywell instructions say that I have to
drain the system before I can remove the seat. However, I have also
been told that if I have shut off valves before the zone valves that,
instead, I can shut these off, install the valves and then turn the
water supply back on. When I inquired about air in the system, I was
told that the autovent should take care of this. I do have an autovent
in my heater system.

Whose advice is correct? Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks;

James M Wiedle

If you have shut off valves that isolate that zone, you can just drain
the one zone and do the repair. If you don't have a drain connection
for each zone it will make a mess when you pull the zone valve and the
water drains out of the zone piping. I usually turn off the make-up
water supply as well, although not really necessary if the shut-offs
work well. You will have to bleed the radiator(s) on that zone to
remove the bulk of the air. The autovent can only vent air that
reaches it. Generally, when you drain a zone, air will be trapped in
the highest point of that zone (usually the radiator). After you do
your repair, turn the make up water back on if necessary, open the
isolation shut offs, and then (with the circulator off) open the
bleeds on the affected radiator(s) until you get steady water flow
with no hissing and bubbling. Then you're good to go. It's usually a
good idea to bleed the radiator again a few days later to release any
residual trapped air.

HTH,

Paul