"JB" wrote in message
...
I replaced the valve on our 10-year-old icemaker's water line after it got
stuck open (unusual, I'm told) one night and caused a little mess. Got the
new valve online from outfit called Cheap Appliance Parts because it was
supposedly a factory-new part at half the cost of the local plumbing
supply
place.

Icemaker's working fine, except that after a few days we started hearing a
loud hiss as the freezer tray refilled after dumping cubes. The hiss grew
progressively louder over a couple days and has stabilized at a level that
can be heard in the next room. I narrowed the noise to the valve area.
Rechecked the fittings, made sure no kinks in plastic hose. Still hisses.

Contacted CAP and they sent me a free replacement. After a few days, it
too
began hissing during the fill phase.

Anyone have any idea why and how to stop it? Before I invest in the local
shop's $40 kit, I'd like to know whether the problem is defective valve or
something in the installation.

Thanks.

This is Turtle.

It could be anything but here is what i think.

I think the valve is not opening up to full open and there is a spraying of
the water going through the valve gate. The noise you hear probley will
sound like your water hose when you press the trigger of the nossel of the
water hose. It will make this sound but if you took the nosel off and let it
flow freely. You will hear nothing. There is two cauases of this and one is
the gate of the valve it not opening full open and spraying the water or the
120 volt power going to the coil of the valve to open it is not good enouigh
to hold the valve full open. The power problem is 1 in a million chance and
the valve messing is 1 in 2 chances.

Now the valve and coil costing $40.00 or so bucks. If it is a ice and water
in the door and calls for 2 coils and 2 valve made into one kit. the $40
bucks sounds reasoniable to me but if it is just one coil and one valve made
together. You need to just shop around for prices. Any appliance parts
places will have these single ice maker water valves well south of $40.00.
Now i say again if it has the two valve type kits, The $40.00 is somewhere
near the price.

I would try to exchange the valve one more time if they will let you but
buying over the internet, well it's a poor way of getting quality stuff. I
think you got another sticking valve but i have hear of the valve doing this
but they are old and ready to go out on old equipment.

TURTLE
..

"JB" wrote in message
...
I replaced the valve on our 10-year-old icemaker's water line after it got
stuck open (unusual, I'm told) one night and caused a little mess. Got the
new valve online from outfit called Cheap Appliance Parts because it was
supposedly a factory-new part at half the cost of the local plumbing
supply
place.

Icemaker's working fine, except that after a few days we started hearing a
loud hiss as the freezer tray refilled after dumping cubes. The hiss grew
progressively louder over a couple days and has stabilized at a level that
can be heard in the next room. I narrowed the noise to the valve area.
Rechecked the fittings, made sure no kinks in plastic hose. Still hisses.

Contacted CAP and they sent me a free replacement. After a few days, it
too
began hissing during the fill phase.

Anyone have any idea why and how to stop it? Before I invest in the local
shop's $40 kit, I'd like to know whether the problem is defective valve or
something in the installation.

Thanks.

This is Turtle.

It could be anything but here is what i think.

I think the valve is not opening up to full open and there is a spraying of
the water going through the valve gate. The noise you hear probley will
sound like your water hose when you press the trigger of the nossel of the
water hose. It will make this sound but if you took the nosel off and let it
flow freely. You will hear nothing. There is two cauases of this and one is
the gate of the valve it not opening full open and spraying the water or the
120 volt power going to the coil of the valve to open it is not good enouigh
to hold the valve full open. The power problem is 1 in a million chance and
the valve messing is 1 in 2 chances.

Now the valve and coil costing $40.00 or so bucks. If it is a ice and water
in the door and calls for 2 coils and 2 valve made into one kit. the $40
bucks sounds reasoniable to me but if it is just one coil and one valve made
together. You need to just shop around for prices. Any appliance parts
places will have these single ice maker water valves well south of $40.00.
Now i say again if it has the two valve type kits, The $40.00 is somewhere
near the price.

I would try to exchange the valve one more time if they will let you but
buying over the internet, well it's a poor way of getting quality stuff. I
think you got another sticking valve but i have hear of the valve doing this
but they are old and ready to go out on old equipment.

TURTLE
..

JB wrote:

I replaced the valve on our 10-year-old icemaker's water line after it got
stuck open (unusual, I'm told) one night and caused a little mess. Got the
new valve online from outfit called Cheap Appliance Parts because it was
supposedly a factory-new part at half the cost of the local plumbing supply
place.

Icemaker's working fine, except that after a few days we started hearing a
loud hiss as the freezer tray refilled after dumping cubes. The hiss grew
progressively louder over a couple days and has stabilized at a level that
can be heard in the next room. I narrowed the noise to the valve area.
Rechecked the fittings, made sure no kinks in plastic hose. Still hisses.

Contacted CAP and they sent me a free replacement. After a few days, it too
began hissing during the fill phase.

Anyone have any idea why and how to stop it? Before I invest in the local
shop's $40 kit, I'd like to know whether the problem is defective valve or
something in the installation.

Thanks.
now you know why it was so cheap.. made in china???? the original parts
are FPS, if its stamped with this then it was designed to work with
these parts... the off name parts might work, but they might not
work..in your case its telling you to take it out... the noise is the
rubber washer intside the fitting that is vibrating and making the noise
just like when a bathroom faucet needs a new washer it makes noises when
the water is running past it.. its vibration the metal stud that is
holding the valve.....

JB wrote:

I replaced the valve on our 10-year-old icemaker's water
line after it got stuck open (unusual, I'm told) one night
and caused a little mess. Got the new valve online from
outfit called Cheap Appliance Parts because it was
supposedly a factory-new part at half the cost of the
local plumbing supply place.

You should have gone to an "appliance parts depot" for appliance parts and
not a plumbing shop IMO.


Icemaker's working fine, except that after a few days
we started hearing a loud hiss as the freezer tray
refilled after dumping cubes. The hiss grew
progressively louder over a couple days and has
stabilized at a level that can be heard in the next room.
I narrowed the noise to the valve area. Rechecked the
fittings, made sure no kinks in plastic hose. Still hisses.

Contacted CAP and they sent me a free replacement.
After a few days, it too began hissing during the fill phase.

Anyone have any idea why and how to stop it? Before I
invest in the local shop's $40 kit, I'd like to know whether
the problem is defective valve or something in the installation.

jim wrote

now you know why it was so cheap.. made in china? the
original parts are FPS, if its stamped with this then it was
designed to work with these parts...

You mean FSP?

FSP® (Factory Specification Parts) is a trademark of Whirlpool Corp. and
will only be found on parts of appliances built by or for Whirlpool. The OP
never said what brand of refrigerator they were working on so it may not
have had FSP parts originally.

But I do agree, using OEM (Original Equipment Parts) from the same
manufacturer that made the appliances is usually the best route to go with
unless there is a *significant* price difference to justify trying it (not
$20 IMO, maybe $50-$100 - depending on the part).

JMO

Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=icemaker+valves

=Ð~~~~~~

JB wrote:

I replaced the valve on our 10-year-old icemaker's water
line after it got stuck open (unusual, I'm told) one night
and caused a little mess. Got the new valve online from
outfit called Cheap Appliance Parts because it was
supposedly a factory-new part at half the cost of the
local plumbing supply place.

You should have gone to an "appliance parts depot" for appliance parts and
not a plumbing shop IMO.


Icemaker's working fine, except that after a few days
we started hearing a loud hiss as the freezer tray
refilled after dumping cubes. The hiss grew
progressively louder over a couple days and has
stabilized at a level that can be heard in the next room.
I narrowed the noise to the valve area. Rechecked the
fittings, made sure no kinks in plastic hose. Still hisses.

Contacted CAP and they sent me a free replacement.
After a few days, it too began hissing during the fill phase.

Anyone have any idea why and how to stop it? Before I
invest in the local shop's $40 kit, I'd like to know whether
the problem is defective valve or something in the installation.

jim wrote

now you know why it was so cheap.. made in china? the
original parts are FPS, if its stamped with this then it was
designed to work with these parts...

You mean FSP?

FSP® (Factory Specification Parts) is a trademark of Whirlpool Corp. and
will only be found on parts of appliances built by or for Whirlpool. The OP
never said what brand of refrigerator they were working on so it may not
have had FSP parts originally.

But I do agree, using OEM (Original Equipment Parts) from the same
manufacturer that made the appliances is usually the best route to go with
unless there is a *significant* price difference to justify trying it (not
$20 IMO, maybe $50-$100 - depending on the part).

JMO

Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=icemaker+valves

=Ð~~~~~~

"JB" wrote in message ...
Thanks for quick responses.

I think I'll try another source for the valve. Local source was $36 plus tax
(I rounded to $40) It is just a single-valve type. I've found a couple other
sources online for around $20.

Hi,

A source with some fair prices is linked below....

http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...refwatval.html

Interesting noise problem!!

Let us know what happens after the new valve is installed.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

"JB" wrote in message ...
Thanks for quick responses.

I think I'll try another source for the valve. Local source was $36 plus tax
(I rounded to $40) It is just a single-valve type. I've found a couple other
sources online for around $20.

Hi,

A source with some fair prices is linked below....

http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...refwatval.html

Interesting noise problem!!

Let us know what happens after the new valve is installed.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/