My washer has stoped draining. It fills up fine, then it goes trhough the
cycle but it stops whenever it is supposed to drain the water out of the
washer.
The hose is cloged, if I lower the hose to a level lower than the water
level then the water comes out.
Is there maybe some pump that its not working? I have a kenmore washer, not
sure what hte model is, im pretty sure its direct drive, nothing fancy
probably a 300 dollar washer when new (its over 2 years old).

"memememe" wrote in message ...
My washer has stoped draining. It fills up fine, then it goes trhough the
cycle but it stops whenever it is supposed to drain the water out of the
washer.
The hose is cloged, if I lower the hose to a level lower than the water
level then the water comes out.
Is there maybe some pump that its not working? I have a kenmore washer, not
sure what hte model is, im pretty sure its direct drive, nothing fancy
probably a 300 dollar washer when new (its over 2 years old).

Hi,

Kenmore is made by several different companies...Whirlpool is just one
of them. Some flippign around blocking the water pump entrance ( coin,
etc ) or bad pump is very possible. If you do have a direct drice
style washer, this should help you get inside to have a peek....
http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

"memememe" wrote in message ...
My washer has stoped draining. It fills up fine, then it goes trhough the
cycle but it stops whenever it is supposed to drain the water out of the
washer.
The hose is cloged, if I lower the hose to a level lower than the water
level then the water comes out.
Is there maybe some pump that its not working? I have a kenmore washer, not
sure what hte model is, im pretty sure its direct drive, nothing fancy
probably a 300 dollar washer when new (its over 2 years old).

Hi,

Kenmore is made by several different companies...Whirlpool is just one
of them. Some flippign around blocking the water pump entrance ( coin,
etc ) or bad pump is very possible. If you do have a direct drice
style washer, this should help you get inside to have a peek....
http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

memememe wrote

My washer has stoped draining. It fills up fine, then it goes
through the cycle but it stops whenever it is supposed to
drain the water out of the washer.

Does it try to spin?

Is there maybe some pump that its not working?

There is a pump and it may be the cause of a draining problem.

I have a kenmore washer, not sure what hte model is,
im pretty sure its direct drive,

You can see the most common Kenmore 'direct drive' washer pump at the
following link:

http://ng.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=3296

Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Kenmore+washer

=Ð~~~~~~

memememe wrote

My washer has stoped draining. It fills up fine, then it goes
through the cycle but it stops whenever it is supposed to
drain the water out of the washer.

Does it try to spin?

Is there maybe some pump that its not working?

There is a pump and it may be the cause of a draining problem.

I have a kenmore washer, not sure what hte model is,
im pretty sure its direct drive,

You can see the most common Kenmore 'direct drive' washer pump at the
following link:

http://ng.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=3296

Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Kenmore+washer

=Ð~~~~~~

memememe wrote

My washer has stoped draining. It fills up fine, then it goes
through the cycle but it stops whenever it is supposed to
drain the water out of the washer.


Sounds to me as you may have a broken lid switch.

memememe wrote

My washer has stoped draining. It fills up fine, then it goes
through the cycle but it stops whenever it is supposed to
drain the water out of the washer.


Sounds to me as you may have a broken lid switch.

"memememe" wrote in message
...

that is one thing I had not thought of, and it is true that if I left the
lid open it would stop at that same place. How would I go about testing
this?

First thing to check is if the actuator (little plastic probe attached to
the right-hand side of the underside of the lid) is there and not broken
off. I've seen the part of the lid that this fits into bend or rust off
completely on older machines. Also, check the hole in the top of the machine
where this probe goes through - you should see a little plastic piece that
this probe strikes to actuate the switch. If it's missing, you may need just
the plastic piece or a complete switch, depending on age of the machine.

If everything is intact, UNPLUG the machine and open the control console
(Jeff supplied a link to a drawing of how to do this), you should see a
little 3-pin connector towards the rear of the top of the machine. Unplug
this - if you have/can use a multimeter, check for continuity between the
two outer pins of the part of the plug which is in the top of the machine,
it should give continuity with the lid down. If in any doubt how to do any
of this, I recommend you seek professional assistance.

Just as an aside, when I worked at Sears, about 18 months ago we had a spate
of these switches breaking off on brand new Whirlpool-built Kenmores due to
oil contamination during manufacture - there was a manufacturer's Service
Flash re this, and if your washer falls into this category, I would suggest
you contact Sears service and mention this to them (Whirlpool were picking
up the cost of replacing the switches).

"memememe" wrote in message
...

that is one thing I had not thought of, and it is true that if I left the
lid open it would stop at that same place. How would I go about testing
this?

First thing to check is if the actuator (little plastic probe attached to
the right-hand side of the underside of the lid) is there and not broken
off. I've seen the part of the lid that this fits into bend or rust off
completely on older machines. Also, check the hole in the top of the machine
where this probe goes through - you should see a little plastic piece that
this probe strikes to actuate the switch. If it's missing, you may need just
the plastic piece or a complete switch, depending on age of the machine.

If everything is intact, UNPLUG the machine and open the control console
(Jeff supplied a link to a drawing of how to do this), you should see a
little 3-pin connector towards the rear of the top of the machine. Unplug
this - if you have/can use a multimeter, check for continuity between the
two outer pins of the part of the plug which is in the top of the machine,
it should give continuity with the lid down. If in any doubt how to do any
of this, I recommend you seek professional assistance.

Just as an aside, when I worked at Sears, about 18 months ago we had a spate
of these switches breaking off on brand new Whirlpool-built Kenmores due to
oil contamination during manufacture - there was a manufacturer's Service
Flash re this, and if your washer falls into this category, I would suggest
you contact Sears service and mention this to them (Whirlpool were picking
up the cost of replacing the switches).

so far I dont know if this is the only problem, but you were right, the
little switch is broken, I took it out and Im gonna go get a replacement
tomorrow, I really hope thats the only problem.



"Mad Mac" wrote in message
s.com...
"memememe" wrote in message
...

that is one thing I had not thought of, and it is true that if I left
the
lid open it would stop at that same place. How would I go about testing
this?

First thing to check is if the actuator (little plastic probe attached to
the right-hand side of the underside of the lid) is there and not broken
off. I've seen the part of the lid that this fits into bend or rust off
completely on older machines. Also, check the hole in the top of the
machine
where this probe goes through - you should see a little plastic piece that
this probe strikes to actuate the switch. If it's missing, you may need
just
the plastic piece or a complete switch, depending on age of the machine.

If everything is intact, UNPLUG the machine and open the control console
(Jeff supplied a link to a drawing of how to do this), you should see a
little 3-pin connector towards the rear of the top of the machine. Unplug
this - if you have/can use a multimeter, check for continuity between the
two outer pins of the part of the plug which is in the top of the machine,
it should give continuity with the lid down. If in any doubt how to do any
of this, I recommend you seek professional assistance.

Just as an aside, when I worked at Sears, about 18 months ago we had a
spate
of these switches breaking off on brand new Whirlpool-built Kenmores due
to
oil contamination during manufacture - there was a manufacturer's Service
Flash re this, and if your washer falls into this category, I would
suggest
you contact Sears service and mention this to them (Whirlpool were picking
up the cost of replacing the switches).

so far I dont know if this is the only problem, but you were right, the
little switch is broken, I took it out and Im gonna go get a replacement
tomorrow, I really hope thats the only problem.



"Mad Mac" wrote in message
s.com...
"memememe" wrote in message
...

that is one thing I had not thought of, and it is true that if I left
the
lid open it would stop at that same place. How would I go about testing
this?

First thing to check is if the actuator (little plastic probe attached to
the right-hand side of the underside of the lid) is there and not broken
off. I've seen the part of the lid that this fits into bend or rust off
completely on older machines. Also, check the hole in the top of the
machine
where this probe goes through - you should see a little plastic piece that
this probe strikes to actuate the switch. If it's missing, you may need
just
the plastic piece or a complete switch, depending on age of the machine.

If everything is intact, UNPLUG the machine and open the control console
(Jeff supplied a link to a drawing of how to do this), you should see a
little 3-pin connector towards the rear of the top of the machine. Unplug
this - if you have/can use a multimeter, check for continuity between the
two outer pins of the part of the plug which is in the top of the machine,
it should give continuity with the lid down. If in any doubt how to do any
of this, I recommend you seek professional assistance.

Just as an aside, when I worked at Sears, about 18 months ago we had a
spate
of these switches breaking off on brand new Whirlpool-built Kenmores due
to
oil contamination during manufacture - there was a manufacturer's Service
Flash re this, and if your washer falls into this category, I would
suggest
you contact Sears service and mention this to them (Whirlpool were picking
up the cost of replacing the switches).

thanks man, that fixed it, thank you!!!!

"Mad Mac" wrote in message
s.com...

"memememe" wrote in message
.. .
so far I dont know if this is the only problem, but you were right, the
little switch is broken, I took it out and Im gonna go get a replacement
tomorrow, I really hope thats the only problem.

Great.....let us know the outcome!

thanks man, that fixed it, thank you!!!!

"Mad Mac" wrote in message
s.com...

"memememe" wrote in message
.. .
so far I dont know if this is the only problem, but you were right, the
little switch is broken, I took it out and Im gonna go get a replacement
tomorrow, I really hope thats the only problem.

Great.....let us know the outcome!