Waterproofing a foundation
 

The method you describe is not considered waterproofing but rather
dampproofing. Tar is not waterproof nor can it span dynamic cracks that
are often seen with masonary foundations.

Contact a builders supply, not Home Depot or the like, and tell them you
want a waterproof coating or material made specifically for below grade
use. To be considered waterproof, the product must be flexible and able to
span non-strucutral cracks (elastomeric) and be completely waterproof under
pressure. Also, unlike tar, there must be no degradation of the material
over time. Mortar or concrete based products are also not waterproof.

You will also want a protection board to ensure that the waterproof barrier
is not punctured by stones and rocks when backfilling.

Consider backfilling with gravel to within 2 feet of finished grade for
faster drainage.

If the footer drain is to be 3 feet or greater below grade, do not use the
corrugated pipe. it cannot withstand the soil pressure and will collapse.
Use perforated PVC pipe wrapped with a filtering cloth (geotex) Holes are
to be placed down.


"HeatMan" wrote in
:

I'm posting this for a neighbor who stubbornly refuses to join the
computer age.

He has a house with a full basement and it leaks. Years ago, when I
was doing new construction, foundation walls were waterproofed with
tar and a drain tube was put along the footing to drain the water
away. The drain tube was similar to the black corrugated downspout
tube except it had holes in it. Furthermore, the drain tube either
had a sock around it and/or was covered with gravel.

Is this the way foundations are still waterproofed or is there a new
and better way?

Thanks.

Waterproofing a foundation
 

You mentioned some points that I missed in my post.

Recently we dug up some perforated corrugated pipe that was buried
about 11 feet underground for 8 years under clay soil. It was fine.
I don't know what the specs are supposed to be but that is what we
found. My guess is that squashed pipe was squashed during
backfilling.


"who" wrote in message
...

The method you describe is not considered waterproofing but rather
dampproofing. Tar is not waterproof nor can it span dynamic cracks
that
are often seen with masonary foundations.

Contact a builders supply, not Home Depot or the like, and tell them
you
want a waterproof coating or material made specifically for below
grade
use. To be considered waterproof, the product must be flexible and
able to
span non-strucutral cracks (elastomeric) and be completely
waterproof under
pressure. Also, unlike tar, there must be no degradation of the
material
over time. Mortar or concrete based products are also not
waterproof.

You will also want a protection board to ensure that the waterproof
barrier
is not punctured by stones and rocks when backfilling.

Consider backfilling with gravel to within 2 feet of finished grade
for
faster drainage.

If the footer drain is to be 3 feet or greater below grade, do not
use the
corrugated pipe. it cannot withstand the soil pressure and will
collapse.
Use perforated PVC pipe wrapped with a filtering cloth (geotex)
Holes are
to be placed down.


"HeatMan" wrote in
:

I'm posting this for a neighbor who stubbornly refuses to join the
computer age.

He has a house with a full basement and it leaks. Years ago, when
I
was doing new construction, foundation walls were waterproofed
with
tar and a drain tube was put along the footing to drain the water
away. The drain tube was similar to the black corrugated
downspout
tube except it had holes in it. Furthermore, the drain tube
either
had a sock around it and/or was covered with gravel.

Is this the way foundations are still waterproofed or is there a
new
and better way?

Thanks.

Waterproofing a foundation
 

You mentioned some points that I missed in my post.

Recently we dug up some perforated corrugated pipe that was buried
about 11 feet underground for 8 years under clay soil. It was fine.
I don't know what the specs are supposed to be but that is what we
found. My guess is that squashed pipe was squashed during
backfilling.


"who" wrote in message
...

The method you describe is not considered waterproofing but rather
dampproofing. Tar is not waterproof nor can it span dynamic cracks
that
are often seen with masonary foundations.

Contact a builders supply, not Home Depot or the like, and tell them
you
want a waterproof coating or material made specifically for below
grade
use. To be considered waterproof, the product must be flexible and
able to
span non-strucutral cracks (elastomeric) and be completely
waterproof under
pressure. Also, unlike tar, there must be no degradation of the
material
over time. Mortar or concrete based products are also not
waterproof.

You will also want a protection board to ensure that the waterproof
barrier
is not punctured by stones and rocks when backfilling.

Consider backfilling with gravel to within 2 feet of finished grade
for
faster drainage.

If the footer drain is to be 3 feet or greater below grade, do not
use the
corrugated pipe. it cannot withstand the soil pressure and will
collapse.
Use perforated PVC pipe wrapped with a filtering cloth (geotex)
Holes are
to be placed down.


"HeatMan" wrote in
:

I'm posting this for a neighbor who stubbornly refuses to join the
computer age.

He has a house with a full basement and it leaks. Years ago, when
I
was doing new construction, foundation walls were waterproofed
with
tar and a drain tube was put along the footing to drain the water
away. The drain tube was similar to the black corrugated
downspout
tube except it had holes in it. Furthermore, the drain tube
either
had a sock around it and/or was covered with gravel.

Is this the way foundations are still waterproofed or is there a
new
and better way?

Thanks.

Waterproofing a foundation
 

"'nuther Bob" wrote in message


The pipe should be placed about 6" below the finish floor (slab)
that you have inside the footing. If it is equal with the floor
(or higher) then water will enter the basement before entering the
pipe. The lower you can put it, the better (i.e. if you can't go
down 6" below, go at least 4".

Isn't that why the holes are supposed to point down? Or do you mean the
bottom of the drain pipe should be 6" below finish floor?

MH