On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:36:17 -0000, HerHusband
wrote:

We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to
plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the
stove).

We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile.

However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a hallway,
we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping hazzard as
people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall. So, we would like
to make the hearth flush with the floor.

With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard and
the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in. Essentially
we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the entire floor. The
woodstove would then essentially just sit on the floor of the room.

Are there any problems with an arrangement like this (assuming all required
clearances are followed)?

You might want to consider the stoking height of the stove. Mine is
installed in a workshop and by code must be 18" off the floor (in case
of leaking fuel, etc.), but I glad to have that high--makes lighting,
adding fuel, and removing ashes much easier.

And provides a better view of the flames through the glass-paneled
door!

--JWW

On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:36:17 +0000, HerHusband wrote:

We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying
to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad
beneath the stove).

We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile.

Just a thought. Tile may be suitable as fireproofing, but make sure
you pick a very durable tile. I've been known to accidently drop a log
or two when loading my stove.

On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:36:17 +0000, HerHusband wrote:

We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying
to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad
beneath the stove).

We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile.

Just a thought. Tile may be suitable as fireproofing, but make sure
you pick a very durable tile. I've been known to accidently drop a log
or two when loading my stove.

that would not be up to code--
maybe a classey brass rail?
"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to
plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the
stove).

We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile.

However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a hallway,
we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping hazzard as
people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall. So, we would like
to make the hearth flush with the floor.

With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard and
the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in. Essentially
we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the entire floor. The
woodstove would then essentially just sit on the floor of the room.

Are there any problems with an arrangement like this (assuming all
required
clearances are followed)?

Anthony

that would not be up to code--
maybe a classey brass rail?
"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to
plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the
stove).

We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile.

However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a hallway,
we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping hazzard as
people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall. So, we would like
to make the hearth flush with the floor.

With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard and
the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in. Essentially
we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the entire floor. The
woodstove would then essentially just sit on the floor of the room.

Are there any problems with an arrangement like this (assuming all
required
clearances are followed)?

Anthony

Bob,

One issue that many folks miss is the combustibility of the walls.

We'll be following the manufacturers recommendation for the distance to the
combustible walls at the rear and side of the wood stove (probably adding a
little extra just to be safe).

A 400lb stove placed in the center of a span
will certainly test those limits.

The floor is constructed of 2x10 floor joists, 16" OC, spanning a distance
of 12'. That is covered with 3/4" T&G OSB plywood subfloor. The woodstove
only weighs 270 pounds, and will sit right at the end of the span (The wall
behind the stove is the bearing wall).

You can tile over an acceptable thickness of plywood
without the backerboard/cementboard/whatever

Since we need the backerboard for the hearth protection, it makes sense to
use the same method for the rest of the floor.

Thanks for the feedback!

Anthony

Bob,

One issue that many folks miss is the combustibility of the walls.

We'll be following the manufacturers recommendation for the distance to the
combustible walls at the rear and side of the wood stove (probably adding a
little extra just to be safe).

A 400lb stove placed in the center of a span
will certainly test those limits.

The floor is constructed of 2x10 floor joists, 16" OC, spanning a distance
of 12'. That is covered with 3/4" T&G OSB plywood subfloor. The woodstove
only weighs 270 pounds, and will sit right at the end of the span (The wall
behind the stove is the bearing wall).

You can tile over an acceptable thickness of plywood
without the backerboard/cementboard/whatever

Since we need the backerboard for the hearth protection, it makes sense to
use the same method for the rest of the floor.

Thanks for the feedback!

Anthony

Joe,

that would not be up to code--
maybe a classey brass rail?

Can you provide more information as to which part of my plan would not meet
code?

Anthony


We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying
to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath
the stove).

We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile.

However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a
hallway, we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping
hazzard as people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall.
So, we would like to make the hearth flush with the floor.

With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard
and the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in.
Essentially we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the
entire floor. The woodstove would then essentially just sit on the
floor of the room.

Joe,

that would not be up to code--
maybe a classey brass rail?

Can you provide more information as to which part of my plan would not meet
code?

Anthony


We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying
to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath
the stove).

We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile.

However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a
hallway, we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping
hazzard as people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall.
So, we would like to make the hearth flush with the floor.

With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard
and the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in.
Essentially we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the
entire floor. The woodstove would then essentially just sit on the
floor of the room.

Larry Caldwell wrote:

('nuther Bob) writes:

[One issue that many folks miss is the combustibility of the walls.
You can't make a combustible wall non-combustible by placing non
combustible products in front of it. However, there are ways to
use a non combustible product in front of a wall with the proper
air gap behind it to create a less combustible wall and thereby
reduce the stove to wall clearance. Be sure to pay strict attention
to the manufacturers stove clearances and install any heat shields
required to get those clearances.]

I have also seen people carefully shield the wood stove, but neglect a
bare stove pipe, which gets just as hot or hotter. A bare metal stove
pipe should be at least 3' from any combustible surface, and that
includes the ceiling.

I suppose you mean a horizontal run, since it would be
pretty hard to penetrate a ceiling if you can get within 3
feet.


--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

Larry Caldwell wrote:

('nuther Bob) writes:

[One issue that many folks miss is the combustibility of the walls.
You can't make a combustible wall non-combustible by placing non
combustible products in front of it. However, there are ways to
use a non combustible product in front of a wall with the proper
air gap behind it to create a less combustible wall and thereby
reduce the stove to wall clearance. Be sure to pay strict attention
to the manufacturers stove clearances and install any heat shields
required to get those clearances.]

I have also seen people carefully shield the wood stove, but neglect a
bare stove pipe, which gets just as hot or hotter. A bare metal stove
pipe should be at least 3' from any combustible surface, and that
includes the ceiling.

I suppose you mean a horizontal run, since it would be
pretty hard to penetrate a ceiling if you can get within 3
feet.


--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc