Hello, I posted a message about a husky air compressor. The compressor
was running for about 5 minutes and I noticed the wiring was a little
warm (room temp. + 10-15 degrees). I'm curious if 12 gauge solid is
enough for a 25ft run of 220V. The compressor draws 15amps. Is this
OK?

The run of wire is not continuous. It comes out of the panel into a
box, where it's spliced to the runway. At the end of the runway, the
compressor splices into the box.

At what wire temperature should I be concerned?

Thanks in advance.

Mike

(Mike) writes:
Hello, I posted a message about a husky air compressor. The compressor
was running for about 5 minutes and I noticed the wiring was a little
warm (room temp. + 10-15 degrees). I'm curious if 12 gauge solid is
enough for a 25ft run of 220V. The compressor draws 15amps. Is this
OK?

The run of wire is not continuous. It comes out of the panel into a
box, where it's spliced to the runway. At the end of the runway, the
compressor splices into the box.

At what wire temperature should I be concerned?

Your wiring is fine for 15 amps, but your setup is not optimal. Have you
thought about switching the motor to 240 volt operation? Then it would
only draw 7.5 amps. The motor would start easier, run cooler and last
longer. All it would cost you is a 20 amp double pole breaker, 25 feet
of 12 gauge wire and a 240 volt NEMA (6-20R) plug and receptacle set.
You could go with a 15 amp circuit, but there is no point, since the
expense is essentially the same.

I try to run all my induction motors at 240 volts, but certainly anything
1 hp or larger, or that starts and stops frequently, like a well pump or
compressor.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

On Sat, 05 Jul 2003 17:00:17 GMT, Larry Caldwell
wrote:

(Mike) writes:
Hello, I posted a message about a husky air compressor. The compressor
was running for about 5 minutes and I noticed the wiring was a little
warm (room temp. + 10-15 degrees). I'm curious if 12 gauge solid is
enough for a 25ft run of 220V. The compressor draws 15amps. Is this
OK?

The run of wire is not continuous. It comes out of the panel into a
box, where it's spliced to the runway. At the end of the runway, the
compressor splices into the box.

At what wire temperature should I be concerned?

Your wiring is fine for 15 amps, but your setup is not optimal. Have you
thought about switching the motor to 240 volt operation? Then it would
only draw 7.5 amps. The motor would start easier, run cooler and last
longer. All it would cost you is a 20 amp double pole breaker, 25 feet
of 12 gauge wire and a 240 volt NEMA (6-20R) plug and receptacle set.
You could go with a 15 amp circuit, but there is no point, since the
expense is essentially the same.

I try to run all my induction motors at 240 volts, but certainly anything
1 hp or larger, or that starts and stops frequently, like a well pump or
compressor.

Read the fella's posts. The motor is already wired and connected to
220 V. Here though, 3/4 HP or less are wired for 110V, for convenience
to plug into existing 110V outlets. All heavier motors are wired for
220V.

(Gary Tait) writes:

Read the fella's posts. The motor is already wired and connected to
220 V. Here though, 3/4 HP or less are wired for 110V, for convenience
to plug into existing 110V outlets. All heavier motors are wired for
220V.

Oops. Missed that part. And I suppose his power company would object to
480v. service in a residence. Oh, well.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

"Larry Caldwell" wrote in message
k.net...
(Gary Tait) writes:

Read the fella's posts. The motor is already wired and connected to
220 V. Here though, 3/4 HP or less are wired for 110V, for convenience
to plug into existing 110V outlets. All heavier motors are wired for
220V.

Oops. Missed that part. And I suppose his power company would object to
480v. service in a residence. Oh, well.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

Naw, they do it all the time! Just call'em up and ask for the special
residential 3 phase power. BSEG

Op

Larry Caldwell wrote in message k.net...
(Mike) writes:
Hello, I posted a message about a husky air compressor. The compressor
was running for about 5 minutes and I noticed the wiring was a little
warm (room temp. + 10-15 degrees). I'm curious if 12 gauge solid is
enough for a 25ft run of 220V. The compressor draws 15amps. Is this
OK?

The run of wire is not continuous. It comes out of the panel into a
box, where it's spliced to the runway. At the end of the runway, the
compressor splices into the box.

At what wire temperature should I be concerned?

Your wiring is fine for 15 amps, but your setup is not optimal. Have you
thought about switching the motor to 240 volt operation? Then it would
only draw 7.5 amps. The motor would start easier, run cooler and last
longer. All it would cost you is a 20 amp double pole breaker, 25 feet
of 12 gauge wire and a 240 volt NEMA (6-20R) plug and receptacle set.
You could go with a 15 amp circuit, but there is no point, since the
expense is essentially the same.

I try to run all my induction motors at 240 volts, but certainly anything
1 hp or larger, or that starts and stops frequently, like a well pump or
compressor.

Larry, the compressor is wired for 240V, 15 amps.

"Guyz-N-Flyz" wrote in message ...
"Larry Caldwell" wrote in message
k.net...
(Gary Tait) writes:

Read the fella's posts. The motor is already wired and connected to
220 V. Here though, 3/4 HP or less are wired for 110V, for convenience
to plug into existing 110V outlets. All heavier motors are wired for
220V.

Oops. Missed that part. And I suppose his power company would object to
480v. service in a residence. Oh, well.

--
http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

Naw, they do it all the time! Just call'em up and ask for the special
residential 3 phase power. BSEG

Op
Oh sure, they can give me 3 phase power, but it's a substantial cost!
It's cheaper to run a phase converter. Besides, I don't need 3 phase;
this is a relatively small load for 220V.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

Mike