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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 13:15:36 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


What kind, brand of filters? They all differ based on quality and
brand, no?
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On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:15:43 PM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


If they are conventional filters, you can see dirt, they look
darker than a new one. Mine can easily go more than a year.
It depends how dusty your environment is, if you have pets, etc.
If you can barely tell the difference, you're probably changing
them too often. The typical 1" thick fiberglass type is almost
worthless. It will hopefully stop some stuff, but to do any
kind of reasonable trapping, you need one of the 4" thick ones
or an electrostatic.
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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:40:36 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:15:43 PM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


If they are conventional filters, you can see dirt, they look
darker than a new one. Mine can easily go more than a year.
It depends how dusty your environment is, if you have pets, etc.
If you can barely tell the difference, you're probably changing
them too often. The typical 1" thick fiberglass type is almost
worthless. It will hopefully stop some stuff, but to do any
kind of reasonable trapping, you need one of the 4" thick ones
or an electrostatic.


I don't know if 4" filter would fit on my furnace. At a minimum, some tin
snips would be required.

I have something very similar to this, where the filter slips into a 1" slot
in that space just above the left hand edge of the red & white label.

http://strandlund.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/62.jpg

The old furnace had a huge blower on the right hand side of the unit so
that is where the cold air returns are. When the new furnace was installed,
the cold air returns were just extended down to the floor and branched over
to the furnace, just like in that picture. It would take some duct-work work
to get a bigger filter in there someplace.

I use a 3 layered, reusable, washable filter that I blow out with a leaf blower about once a month. I blast it with the blower in the opposite
direction of the air-flow arrow and watch the dust fly. I also take it
apart and wash the foam sheets at least once a year.




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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

I listen for the sound to change.

As the filter loads up and air resistance increases, the sound from the return area gets higher pitched. Then I change them.



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On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:44:57 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:40:36 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:15:43 PM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


If they are conventional filters, you can see dirt, they look
darker than a new one. Mine can easily go more than a year.
It depends how dusty your environment is, if you have pets, etc.
If you can barely tell the difference, you're probably changing
them too often. The typical 1" thick fiberglass type is almost
worthless. It will hopefully stop some stuff, but to do any
kind of reasonable trapping, you need one of the 4" thick ones
or an electrostatic.


I don't know if 4" filter would fit on my furnace. At a minimum, some tin
snips would be required.


The 4" type go into a filter holder that's between the return
plenum and the furnace and it's designed to accept them. It's
similar idea to where an electrostatic type filter would go.
You couldn't put a 4" one into my furnace either, all it will
accept is the minimal 1" type. Not sure if it's 4" or maybe
5", but whatever it's the larger, pleated type.
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On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 5:44:25 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:44:57 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:40:36 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:15:43 PM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

If they are conventional filters, you can see dirt, they look
darker than a new one. Mine can easily go more than a year.
It depends how dusty your environment is, if you have pets, etc.
If you can barely tell the difference, you're probably changing
them too often. The typical 1" thick fiberglass type is almost
worthless. It will hopefully stop some stuff, but to do any
kind of reasonable trapping, you need one of the 4" thick ones
or an electrostatic.


I don't know if 4" filter would fit on my furnace. At a minimum, some tin
snips would be required.


The 4" type go into a filter holder that's between the return
plenum and the furnace and it's designed to accept them. It's
similar idea to where an electrostatic type filter would go.
You couldn't put a 4" one into my furnace either, all it will
accept is the minimal 1" type. Not sure if it's 4" or maybe
5", but whatever it's the larger, pleated type.


That was my point. If I want to "upgrade" to a 4" filter, I would have to design my own filter holder. It could be done (it's just duct-work work) but I'm not going to do it.
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On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 8:35:59 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 5:44:25 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:44:57 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:40:36 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:15:43 PM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

If they are conventional filters, you can see dirt, they look
darker than a new one. Mine can easily go more than a year.
It depends how dusty your environment is, if you have pets, etc.
If you can barely tell the difference, you're probably changing
them too often. The typical 1" thick fiberglass type is almost
worthless. It will hopefully stop some stuff, but to do any
kind of reasonable trapping, you need one of the 4" thick ones
or an electrostatic.

I don't know if 4" filter would fit on my furnace. At a minimum, some tin
snips would be required.


The 4" type go into a filter holder that's between the return
plenum and the furnace and it's designed to accept them. It's
similar idea to where an electrostatic type filter would go.
You couldn't put a 4" one into my furnace either, all it will
accept is the minimal 1" type. Not sure if it's 4" or maybe
5", but whatever it's the larger, pleated type.


That was my point. If I want to "upgrade" to a 4" filter, I would have to design my own filter holder. It could be done (it's just duct-work work) but I'm not going to do it.


You don't need to design the filter holder, they are available in
standard sizes that mate with furnaces:

https://www.nationalairwarehouse.com...e-cabinet.html

I put one in when I replaced my furnace 4 years ago. But it would require
some duct work.
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trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:44:57 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:40:36 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:15:43 PM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

If they are conventional filters, you can see dirt, they look
darker than a new one. Mine can easily go more than a year.
It depends how dusty your environment is, if you have pets, etc.
If you can barely tell the difference, you're probably changing
them too often. The typical 1" thick fiberglass type is almost
worthless. It will hopefully stop some stuff, but to do any
kind of reasonable trapping, you need one of the 4" thick ones
or an electrostatic.


I don't know if 4" filter would fit on my furnace. At a minimum, some tin
snips would be required.


The 4" type go into a filter holder that's between the return
plenum and the furnace and it's designed to accept them. It's
similar idea to where an electrostatic type filter would go.
You couldn't put a 4" one into my furnace either, all it will
accept is the minimal 1" type. Not sure if it's 4" or maybe
5", but whatever it's the larger, pleated type.

In my house.
actually original filter was Honeywell electronic. 16x25x5 pleated
fit perfect in it's place. I alternate between pleated, or electronic
one.(cleaned in DW)
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On 9/30/2015 11:40 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:15:43 PM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


If they are conventional filters, you can see dirt, they look
darker than a new one. Mine can easily go more than a year.
It depends how dusty your environment is, if you have pets, etc.
If you can barely tell the difference, you're probably changing
them too often. The typical 1" thick fiberglass type is almost
worthless. It will hopefully stop some stuff, but to do any
kind of reasonable trapping, you need one of the 4" thick ones
or an electrostatic.

Bull****


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On 9/30/2015 11:15 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what to look
for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.


We buy the cheap(est) -- DIRT cheapest! -- filters and try to replace them
monthly. We tend to have a fair bit of dust/dirt from the climate in
which we live so they get "visibly dirty" pretty quickly.

Our thinking is that it's easier to remember to do something (trivial)
every month than to keep track of N month intervals.

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On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:12:01 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

Our thinking is that it's easier to remember to do something (trivial)
every month than to keep track of N month intervals.


I write on my kitchen calendar to check and change filters
every 3 months. No problem keeping track of when to do
this.

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On 9/30/2015 1:32 PM, ItsJoanNotJoann wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:12:01 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

Our thinking is that it's easier to remember to do something (trivial)
every month than to keep track of N month intervals.


I write on my kitchen calendar to check and change filters
every 3 months. No problem keeping track of when to do
this.


And when to fertilize the citrus trees, when to change the batteries
in the smoke detectors, when the roof needs to be repainted, when
the swamp cooler pads need to be serviced, etc.

We find it easier to just put things in very regular schedules:
e.g., instead of fertilizing three times/year (as recommended),
we fertilize monthly; cooler gets serviced at end of season
with pads replaced (instead of waiting for the pads to *need*
to be replaced); smoke detector batteries on New Years Eve;
roof gets 20% serviced each year -- instead of once every 5
years; etc.


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On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:53:26 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

On 9/30/2015 1:32 PM, ItsJoanNotJoann wrote:

On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:12:01 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

Our thinking is that it's easier to remember to do something (trivial)
every month than to keep track of N month intervals.


I write on my kitchen calendar to check and change filters
every 3 months. No problem keeping track of when to do
this.


And when to fertilize the citrus trees, when to change the batteries
in the smoke detectors, when the roof needs to be repainted, when
the swamp cooler pads need to be serviced, etc.

I don't have any fruit trees.
The smoke alarms 'tweets' when the batteries needs to be changed.
You paint your roof???
No swamp cooler here, just central heat & air.

We find it easier to just put things in very regular schedules:
e.g., instead of fertilizing three times/year (as recommended),
we fertilize monthly; cooler gets serviced at end of season
with pads replaced (instead of waiting for the pads to *need*
to be replaced); smoke detector batteries on New Years Eve;
roof gets 20% serviced each year -- instead of once every 5
years; etc.

The cat does get his flea drop medication the first day of
_every_ month. And the rechargeable tooth brush is run down
completely and recharged the first day of every month.

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On 9/30/2015 10:12 PM, ItsJoanNotJoann wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:53:26 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

On 9/30/2015 1:32 PM, ItsJoanNotJoann wrote:

On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 2:12:01 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

Our thinking is that it's easier to remember to do something (trivial)
every month than to keep track of N month intervals.


I write on my kitchen calendar to check and change filters
every 3 months. No problem keeping track of when to do
this.


And when to fertilize the citrus trees, when to change the batteries
in the smoke detectors, when the roof needs to be repainted, when
the swamp cooler pads need to be serviced, etc.

I don't have any fruit trees.


We have 6 citrus. Ensuring regular watering and fertilizing
ensures large, tastey fruit (we just finished LAST year's OJ...
now we have to wait until January for the next crop -- though
the lemons will come due before then)

The smoke alarms 'tweets' when the batteries needs to be changed.


We don't wait until it starts it's INCESSANT chirping. Do you
want to listen to it for an hour, day, week before you get around
to replacing the battery? Easier to be proactive and replace it
before it complains.

You paint your roof???


Yes. Common practice is ~every 7 years. If you *wait* 7 years,
chances are you will end up with problems -- things that have
"gone south" at year #3 and become problems long before #7.

So, *planning* on doing a portion of it every year reduces the
effort required for "year #7 (or, year #5, in our case) AND
ensures the roof gets looked at often enough that any problems
get caught before they become "trouble". E.g., our roof is
over 20 years old (25+) and still "intact". All neighbors
have had theirs replaced in that time.

No swamp cooler here, just central heat & air.


Heat, air and cooler. As cooler is on roof, it requires maintenance
(make sure water line doesn't freeze in winter, make sure it is
cleaned out -- mold, etc. -- at end of season, etc.) each season.

We find it easier to just put things in very regular schedules:
e.g., instead of fertilizing three times/year (as recommended),
we fertilize monthly; cooler gets serviced at end of season
with pads replaced (instead of waiting for the pads to *need*
to be replaced); smoke detector batteries on New Years Eve;
roof gets 20% serviced each year -- instead of once every 5
years; etc.


The cat does get his flea drop medication the first day of
_every_ month. And the rechargeable tooth brush is run down
completely and recharged the first day of every month.


We try to do everything on a predefined schedule instead of
having to be "reactive" -- or, remember more "complex" schedules.
The effort is more expensive than the cost.


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Don Y wrote:
On 9/30/2015 11:15 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say
what to look
for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.


We buy the cheap(est) -- DIRT cheapest! -- filters and try to replace them
monthly. We tend to have a fair bit of dust/dirt from the climate in
which we live so they get "visibly dirty" pretty quickly.

Our thinking is that it's easier to remember to do something (trivial)
every month than to keep track of N month intervals.

Our filter is 16x25x5 pleated. I stick with MERV 10 rated. replace every
6 month. I buy them 6 in a box. Costs approx. 100.00. some
times I use electronic filter turning it on.
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"Don Y" wrote in message
...
..

We buy the cheap(est) -- DIRT cheapest! -- filters and try to replace them
monthly. We tend to have a fair bit of dust/dirt from the climate in
which we live so they get "visibly dirty" pretty quickly.

Our thinking is that it's easier to remember to do something (trivial)
every month than to keep track of N month intervals.


As there is just the wife and I here and we never open the windows we do
about the same thing. Buy the ones that come in a pack of 4 or 5 for around
$ 5. That is only about $ 10 to $ 15 every year. We change them on the odd
months and they never look dirty. Had the coils cleaned after about 8 years
and the man said the inside ones did not need it, but did it anyway as it
was part of the required job.

This is with a heat pump in the middle of NC so it
runs most of the year, heating or cooling.


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On 9/30/2015 2:21 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
..

We buy the cheap(est) -- DIRT cheapest! -- filters and try to replace them
monthly. We tend to have a fair bit of dust/dirt from the climate in
which we live so they get "visibly dirty" pretty quickly.

Our thinking is that it's easier to remember to do something (trivial)
every month than to keep track of N month intervals.


As there is just the wife and I here and we never open the windows we do
about the same thing. Buy the ones that come in a pack of 4 or 5 for around
$ 5. That is only about $ 10 to $ 15 every year. We change them on the odd
months and they never look dirty. Had the coils cleaned after about 8 years
and the man said the inside ones did not need it, but did it anyway as it
was part of the required job.


Or intake plenum feeds the bottom of the furnace -- so, the ~1" slot
determines the maximum thickness for the filter. We tried pleated
HEPA filters, etc. and didn't notice any difference -- other than
the money we paid for them!

This is with a heat pump in the middle of NC so it
runs most of the year, heating or cooling.


Here, the heating season is relatively short. ACbrrr runs for at least 7
mos "full time" (April - Oct) if we exploit night air for the early and
late portions of the cooling season (e.g., our nighttime lows are still
high 70's with 100 during daytime -- though that should start to
drop to low 90's in a week or two)

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Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

Do you check air filter in your car? Likewise see it against light or
sun.
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On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 4:49:16 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

Do you check air filter in your car? Likewise see it against light or
sun.


Filter"s" (plural)

I wonder how many people don't even know that there is a cabin air filter in their car.

I have bought 4 used cars in the past three years (3 in the past 12 months) and everyone of them had a fairly clean engine compartment filter but a cabin filter that was black and filled with leaves, bees and other debris.


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On 9/30/2015 7:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 4:49:16 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

Do you check air filter in your car? Likewise see it against light or
sun.


Filter"s" (plural)

I wonder how many people don't even know that there is a cabin air filter in their car.

I have bought 4 used cars in the past three years (3 in the past 12 months) and everyone of them had a fairly clean engine compartment filter but a cabin filter that was black and filled with leaves, bees and other debris.

Partly because they don't know it is there and partly because it
is very hard to replace. Mine is coming up for replacement and
it is a hassle. In my car I have to pull the glove box out of
the dash to get the filter out of its holder. Whenever I get the
oil changed they always show me a really bad cabin filter and
ask if I want to replace mine. I know the one they show me is
not the one out of my car, because they wouldn't pull it out
and I don't figure it is as bad as the one they show me. At
least it wasn't the last time I replaced it. They don't say that
it is my filter, they just suggest replacing it.

Bill

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On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 9:36:36 PM UTC-4, Bill Gill wrote:
On 9/30/2015 7:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 4:49:16 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that..
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

Do you check air filter in your car? Likewise see it against light or
sun.


Filter"s" (plural)

I wonder how many people don't even know that there is a cabin air filter in their car.

I have bought 4 used cars in the past three years (3 in the past 12 months) and everyone of them had a fairly clean engine compartment filter but a cabin filter that was black and filled with leaves, bees and other debris..

Partly because they don't know it is there and partly because it
is very hard to replace. Mine is coming up for replacement and
it is a hassle. In my car I have to pull the glove box out of
the dash to get the filter out of its holder. Whenever I get the
oil changed they always show me a really bad cabin filter and
ask if I want to replace mine. I know the one they show me is
not the one out of my car, because they wouldn't pull it out
and I don't figure it is as bad as the one they show me. At
least it wasn't the last time I replaced it. They don't say that
it is my filter, they just suggest replacing it.

Bill


On an 04 Honda Odyssey, you not only have to remove the glove box, which requires removing a kick panel under the dash, but you actually have to *cut* out a plastic brace that runs across the front of dash behind the glove box.
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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 4:49:16 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

Do you check air filter in your car? Likewise see it against light or
sun.


Filter"s" (plural)

I wonder how many people don't even know that there is a cabin air filter in their car.

I have bought 4 used cars in the past three years (3 in the past 12 months) and everyone of them had a fairly clean engine compartment filter but a cabin filter that was black and filled with leaves, bees and other debris.

For some cars replacing cabin filter is a PITA. Lucky all our cars,
it is very easy. Just drop the glove box and there it is. For engine
air filter, I use reusable K&N filter which is washed and oiled every
12 months.
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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 10:18:44 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 4:49:16 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

Do you check air filter in your car? Likewise see it against light or
sun.


Filter"s" (plural)

I wonder how many people don't even know that there is a cabin air filter in their car.

I have bought 4 used cars in the past three years (3 in the past 12 months) and everyone of them had a fairly clean engine compartment filter but a cabin filter that was black and filled with leaves, bees and other debris.

For some cars replacing cabin filter is a PITA. Lucky all our cars,
it is very easy. Just drop the glove box and there it is. For engine
air filter, I use reusable K&N filter which is washed and oiled every
12 months.


It's also easy on BMW X5, goes in from an access cover between the windshield
wipers.
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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

On 9/30/2015 2:15 PM, Bill Gill wrote:
Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


It's entirely a judgement call. Hard to give any
exact figures over the internet. Trust your own
judgement.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..


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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Sep 2015 13:15:36 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


What kind of fuel are you burning?
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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

On 9/30/2015 8:53 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Sep 2015 13:15:36 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


What kind of fuel are you burning?

It's gas, but what difference does that make? The exhaust
goes up the flue, not into the house. What the filter takes
out is dust in the air inside the house.

Bill
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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 1 Oct 2015 08:14:59 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

On 9/30/2015 8:53 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Sep 2015 13:15:36 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill


What kind of fuel are you burning?

It's gas, but what difference does that make? The exhaust
goes up the flue, not into the house. What the filter takes
out is dust in the air inside the house.


It makes a difference.

Bill


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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

On 10/3/2015 10:03 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 1 Oct 2015 08:14:59 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

On 9/30/2015 8:53 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Sep 2015 13:15:36 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

What kind of fuel are you burning?

It's gas, but what difference does that make? The exhaust
goes up the flue, not into the house. What the filter takes
out is dust in the air inside the house.


It makes a difference.

Bill


What difference? Your bald statement that it makes a difference
is a long way from being conclusive. Can you cite a source for
your statement? I don't see how it could make a difference to
the inside of the house what you burn in a closed system that has
no direct connection to the inside of the house.

Bill
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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

On Sun, 4 Oct 2015 08:40:01 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

On 10/3/2015 10:03 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 1 Oct 2015 08:14:59 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

On 9/30/2015 8:53 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Sep 2015 13:15:36 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

What kind of fuel are you burning?

It's gas, but what difference does that make? The exhaust
goes up the flue, not into the house. What the filter takes
out is dust in the air inside the house.


It makes a difference.

Bill


What difference? Your bald statement that it makes a difference
is a long way from being conclusive. Can you cite a source for
your statement? I don't see how it could make a difference to
the inside of the house what you burn in a closed system that has
no direct connection to the inside of the house.

Bill

Well, in years gone by I could always tell if a house was heated with
oil, just by the smell, and a wood-burning furnace had a different
smell than a coal furnace. It was not uncommon to have "smudge" above
the hot air registers. That was before the days of air-tight
fireboxe, and those old dinasaurs are all but extinct today.

In today's homes, almost universally, there should be no difference
what fuel is being burned.


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Default How to inspect furnace filters?

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 4 Oct 2015 08:40:01 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

On 10/3/2015 10:03 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 1 Oct 2015 08:14:59 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

On 9/30/2015 8:53 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 30 Sep 2015 13:15:36 -0500, Bill Gill
wrote:

Everybody says to inspect your furnace filters, but they don't say what
to look for. On the TV news they always say it, then show a filter that
is completely clogged. Obviously they should be replaced before that.
So what should I look for to decide if I need to replace them. I have
been replacing them every 3 months, but when I do I can barely tell
the difference between the old ones and the new ones.

Bill

What kind of fuel are you burning?

It's gas, but what difference does that make? The exhaust
goes up the flue, not into the house. What the filter takes
out is dust in the air inside the house.


It makes a difference.

Bill


What difference? Your bald statement that it makes a difference
is a long way from being conclusive.


I wasn't interested in being conclusive.

To tell you the truth, I'm posting in order to help you and your first
answer to me, above, was argumentative, and now you're even more so.

It's annoying.

Can you cite a source for
your statement? I don't see how it could make a difference to
the inside of the house what you burn in a closed system that has
no direct connection to the inside of the house.


When the air mixture was misadjusted for a while, on my oil furnace, it
left dirt above the forced air registers, and even on some of the walls,
above the nails, or screws, that held the sheet rock in place.

So you can take your belief in a closed system and flush it down the
drain.

Bill


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You could always build a bracket that somehow would fit in the available opening, but permit you to use a smaller filter that was thicker. But, you have to be careful not to restrict the airflow very much as the furnaces are designed to be at their maximum efficiency based on a certain airflow. Also, too low a flow could also lead to blower motor overheating.
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