I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA

--
You know it's time to clean the refrigerator
when something closes the door from the inside.

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 2:25:49 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?


Your method should work fine other than the fact that the cords aren't very long. Once you start stringing them together for length, you'll run into issues with sections unplugging, possible voltage drops at every screw/plug-socket connection, etc. Just doesn't seem worth the trouble or expense to get any decent length of cord. You might as well just go buy one.

I have in fact made short ones, like the one I have behind my recliner for the times my iPad or phone needs to be charged while I'm sitting there, or for Christmas decorations, etc. They are typically decent cords, so as long as you buy quality socket ends, you'll end up with a decent extension cord..

Other uses include replacement cords for appliances and suicide cables for the workshop. I am not recommending that you make or use a suicide cable, I'm just saying that old computer cords make good ones.

On 2 Sep 2015 18:25:43 GMT, KenK wrote:


I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA

The big problem with these cords is the wire size. Most are 18ga and
16ga at best.
BTW blue is the neutral and brown is the hot on European cord sets.

On 9/2/15 2:25 PM, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA


Not sure if cheaper, but easier way is use an adapters to convert the
IEC plug to a std 3 prong female socket (NEMA5-15R)

see
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...29&ignorebbr=1

or

http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-prong.../dp/B004OC579E

On 9/2/15 2:51 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 2:25:49 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C
extension cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can
think of is to cut off the female plug and put on a standard
three-wire A.C female plug. Am I overlooking an easier cheaper
way?


Your method should work fine other than the fact that the cords
aren't very long. Once you start stringing them together for length,
you'll run into issues with sections unplugging, possible voltage
drops at every screw/plug-socket connection, etc. Just doesn't seem
worth the trouble or expense to get any decent length of cord. You
might as well just go buy one.


Yes, in view of the cost and labor of installing a female plug, it seems
more sensible to buy a 25-foot 16-gauge extension cord than to make a
6-foot cord of similar gauge.

I've always found 100-foot cords a hassle. It would be easier to work
with 25- or 50-foot cords and connect them when necessary. It would
also be cheaper to replace a shorter cord in case of damaged insulation.
There used to be clamps to latch connections together. I haven't seen
any lately.

KenK writes:

I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

Easier? Discard them and buy purpose made extension cords.

If you really don't want to wire a NEMA 5-15 connector to the wire,
you can remove the female IEC 320 connector and use the remaining wire
as a replacement cordset for power tools, appliances and lighting
fixtures.

Note that computer power cords use AWG18 conductors with an ampacity
of 7 (about 800 watts at 120VAC).

On 9/2/2015 3:45 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 9/2/15 2:51 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 2:25:49 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C
extension cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can
think of is to cut off the female plug and put on a standard
three-wire A.C female plug. Am I overlooking an easier cheaper
way?


Your method should work fine other than the fact that the cords
aren't very long. Once you start stringing them together for length,
you'll run into issues with sections unplugging, possible voltage
drops at every screw/plug-socket connection, etc. Just doesn't seem
worth the trouble or expense to get any decent length of cord. You
might as well just go buy one.


Yes, in view of the cost and labor of installing a female plug, it seems
more sensible to buy a 25-foot 16-gauge extension cord than to make a
6-foot cord of similar gauge.


It would make sense to use it if there was a simple low cost adapter to
convert them. I've probably got a half dozen wasting space too.

On 9/2/2015 11:25 AM, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

It's typically not worth the effort. You end up with a cheap, light-gauge
(low ampacity), short cord.

I have some longer (12-15 ft) 14AWG "modular power cords" that are plugged in,
permanently, in my office. They are handy when I need to connect some piece
of kit with a modular power inlet.

When faced with something with a genuine *plug* on the end (e.g., a wall
wart for something), I slip an adapter onto the cord that terminates in
a regular nema socket. In this way, getting the benefit of a "universal"
extension cord.

On 09/02/2015 01:59 PM, wrote:
On 2 Sep 2015 18:25:43 GMT, KenK wrote:


I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA

The big problem with these cords is the wire size. Most are 18ga and
16ga at best.
BTW blue is the neutral and brown is the hot on European cord sets.




Correct. The cord cannot handle the current of an A/C

Just go to the H/W store and purchase a new one meant to handle the current.

On 9/2/2015 2:25 PM, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA


I've seen some folks put a junction box and
socket on. Then you get two sockets.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/2/2015 6:44 PM, philo wrote:
On 09/02/2015 01:59 PM, wrote:
On 2 Sep 2015 18:25:43 GMT, KenK wrote:


I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C
extension
cords.



Correct. The cord cannot handle the current of an A/C

Just go to the H/W store and purchase a new one meant to handle the
current.

When I read the post, he wanted Alternating/ Current cords.
If someone wants to make Air/ Conditioner extensions (700
watts or more) out of a computer cord (probably 100 watts),
that is not advisable.



--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 2 Sep 2015 18:25:43 GMT, KenK wrote:


I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA
Yes - buy an extention cord. Generally cheaper than a "good" cord
end.

On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 11:51:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 2:25:49 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?


Your method should work fine other than the fact that the cords aren't very long. Once you start stringing them together for length, you'll run into issues with sections unplugging, possible voltage drops at every screw/plug-socket connection, etc. Just doesn't seem worth the trouble or expense to get any decent length of cord. You might as well just go buy one.

I have in fact made short ones, like the one I have behind my recliner for the times my iPad or phone needs to be charged while I'm sitting there, or for Christmas decorations, etc. They are typically decent cords, so as long as you buy quality socket ends, you'll end up with a decent extension cord.

Other uses include replacement cords for appliances and suicide cables for the workshop. I am not recommending that you make or use a suicide cable, I'm just saying that old computer cords make good ones.
Big problem is they are "generally" very light duty. Almost every one
I have around right now is only 18 guage -good for something between
2.3 and 7 amps, more or less, depending on length. Not much good as a
"general purpose" extention cord.

wrote in message

stuff snipped

Big problem is they are "generally" very light duty. Almost every one
I have around right now is only 18 guage -good for something between
2.3 and 7 amps, more or less, depending on length. Not much good as a
"general purpose" extention cord.

Agree. Even the ones that seem thick are actually 18AWG, sometimes 16 but
very rarely 14. I went looking for a 14AWG cord and found only one in a
box of dozens. IIRC it came from an AST Turbo Laser that dimmed the lights
when it booted up. (-:

For short, low wattage work I've bought adapters that have a male "D" plug
connected to a regular 110VAC outlet format. That turns it into a grounded
6 to 12' extension cord. Problem is, unless you shop for the lowest price
adapters, they end up being as costly as buying a new extension cord. Same
with putting a 110VAC plug on the cord. Those connectors cost $2 or more
each. Others may disagree, but I prefer a molded plug to a retrofitted one.

If you can find the "D" adapters cheap, they work out well. I like to use
them for wiring a stereo stack because you can label them for easy
breakdown/reconfiguration and bundle the cord that comes with the equipment
up so that you can unplug nearly in place instead of down at the power
strip. Who here hasn't had a problem fishing a long cord from an equipment
stack like that? Or unplugged the wrong item? I try to label cords at the
plug end just to be sure.

I also use 1' mini-extension cords for things like plugging six "wall warts"
into a powerstrip. The short extensions eliminate the problem with power
adapters that cover one or more of the adjacent outlets. I use velcro to
keep the power adapters attached to the piece of scrap shelving that I
attached the power strip to so that it's a little neater. They really make
a difference if you've got a lot of wall-warts (like my charging station
that now has a record 37 chargers of different types. Really, chargers for
cell phones, garden equipment, tools, batteries, shavers, kitchen gear,
laptops, PDAs, MP3 players, portable vacs, cameras, etc.) I, for one, am
glad that the EU led the way in forcing phone makers (at least) to
standardize on the USB charging plug. I bought a universal solar charger
for cell phones that came with 21 different adapters!!!!!!

--
Bobby G.

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 2:04:39 PM UTC-5, Retired wrote:
On 9/2/15 2:25 PM, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA


Not sure if cheaper, but easier way is use an adapters to convert the
IEC plug to a std 3 prong female socket (NEMA5-15R)

see
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...29&ignorebbr=1

or

http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-prong.../dp/B004OC579E

Better price from this online seller. The price is cheaper than a good cord end that he could put on his cords. ^_^

http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/CORD-3

[8~{} Uncle Cord Monster

"philo" wrote in message
...
On 09/02/2015 01:59 PM, wrote:
On 2 Sep 2015 18:25:43 GMT, KenK wrote:


I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C
extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to
cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug.
Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA

The big problem with these cords is the wire size. Most are 18ga and
16ga at best.
BTW blue is the neutral and brown is the hot on European cord sets.




Correct. The cord cannot handle the current of an A/C

Did the OP mean A/C for air conditioner or alternating current? Now I am
not sure. If the former, no computer cable I've seen should be used. Just
not even current capacity (along with another friction fit point to cause
arcing).

--
Bobby G.

On 9/2/2015 8:37 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:


Better price from this online seller. The price is cheaper than a good cord end that he could put on his cords. ^_^

http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/CORD-3

[8~{} Uncle Cord Monster


That is useful and cost effective.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

stuff snipped

It would make sense to use it if there was a simple low cost adapter to
convert them. I've probably got a half dozen wasting space too.

http://www.google.com/search?q=D+cor...to+NEMA+female

I used to get them for a little over $1 at (the now apparently deceased)
Computergate. The cheapest I could find now is $2.99 which makes it sort of
economically impractical to use them to create low amperage 110VA cords.
For a buck it made sense - for $3 or $5, get a new cord.

--
Bobby G.

In alt.home.repair, on 2 Sep 2015 18:25:43 GMT, KenK
wrote:


I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA

What you should do is buy enough cordless computers to use up all your
cords.


--

Stumpy Strumpet
the bimbus
for dogcatcher

"Retired" wrote in message

stuff snipped

Not sure if cheaper, but easier way is use an adapters to convert the
IEC plug to a std 3 prong female socket (NEMA5-15R)

see

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...29&ignorebbr=1

+1 Good find. The Newegg unit is cheaper than any other places I've found.
They're only $2 for 10 and offer $2 shipping (I think). At those prices,
using the adapters makes sense for at least low wattage applications. Now
that I've retired all my desktop PC's and peripherals, I've got quite a few
D cords so I think I'll order some from Newegg. Thanks!

--
Bobby G.

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 7:47:45 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/2/2015 8:37 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:


Better price from this online seller. The price is cheaper than a good cord end that he could put on his cords. ^_^

http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/CORD-3

[8~{} Uncle Cord Monster


That is useful and cost effective.

They're also 16 gauge which many, not all computer power cords are. Many are 18 gauge and some are 14 gauge but they're not as prevalent. Amazon sells 16 gauge IEC power cords and they're not too expensive. ^_^

http://www.amazon.com/Foot-Power-Cor.../dp/B0002ZPHAQ

[8~{} Uncle Power Monster

On 9/2/2015 5:47 PM, Robert Green wrote:
Did the OP mean A/C for air conditioner or alternating current? Now I am
not sure.

"A/C" and "A.C" were used in the original post. Given the context of the
comment, it seemed obvious that A/C and A.C were both intended to be
"A.C." or "AC"

If the former, no computer cable I've seen should be used. Just
not even current capacity (along with another friction fit point to cause
arcing).

The modular power cord to one of my machines handles its 2200W load...

On 9/2/2015 5:31 PM, Robert Green wrote:

Who here hasn't had a problem fishing a long cord from an equipment
stack like that? Or unplugged the wrong item? I try to label cords at the
plug end just to be sure.

I bought a cheap P-touch label maker for that. The labels are "printed"
on ~1/2 wide vinyl (?) tape. I lay the label *along* the cord (power
cord, CAT5 cable, etc.). The 1/2" height of the label is not enough
to make it's way all the way around the cable (just *barely* makes
it around a CAT5 patch cord) so would easily fall off or be peeled off
when pulling cables.

So, I use 2" wide cellophane packing tape cut to the length of the label
plus half an inch or so. Then, wrap it *around* the cable and label
to effectively protect and secure the label.

This part of the cable is then slightly less flexible but not badly.

I also use 1' mini-extension cords for things like plugging six "wall warts"
into a powerstrip. The short extensions eliminate the problem with power
adapters that cover one or more of the adjacent outlets. I use velcro to
keep the power adapters attached to the piece of scrap shelving that I
attached the power strip to so that it's a little neater. They really make
a difference if you've got a lot of wall-warts (like my charging station
that now has a record 37 chargers of different types. Really, chargers for
cell phones, garden equipment, tools, batteries, shavers, kitchen gear,
laptops, PDAs, MP3 players, portable vacs, cameras, etc.) I, for one, am
glad that the EU led the way in forcing phone makers (at least) to
standardize on the USB charging plug. I bought a universal solar charger
for cell phones that came with 21 different adapters!!!!!!

These folks make a nice outlet strip for wall warts:
http://www.amazon.com/Furman-PLUGLOCK-5-Feet-Metal-Strip/dp/B001OMGZLQ
but it is insanely expensive!

Lowe's has some that are suitable but, in my case, a bit too long.
As most of the guts were of molded plastic, I couldn't even cut it
down to size!

I've resigned myself to fabricating something. One of my workstations
has more than a dozen wall warts and I'd like to be able to switch them
individually on/off without having to unplug (or, unplug).

Thankfully (?), many of my devices use enough power to warrant *bricks*
instead of wall warts.

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 8:28:38 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

The modular power cord to one of my machines handles its 2200W load...

You're claiming you can power 2 toasters with that cord? It sounds like he just wants to modify it for an ordinary common use extension.
"...and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug."

On 9/2/2015 6:44 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 8:28:38 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

The modular power cord to one of my machines handles its 2200W load...

You're claiming you can power 2 toasters with that cord?

Yes. Or, two hair dryers, etc. (the computer draws 2200W)

It sounds like he just wants to modify it for an ordinary common use extension.
"...and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug."

Agreed.

On 09/02/2015 07:47 PM, Robert Green wrote:
"


Correct. The cord cannot handle the current of an A/C

Did the OP mean A/C for air conditioner or alternating current? Now I am
not sure. If the former, no computer cable I've seen should be used. Just
not even current capacity (along with another friction fit point to cause
arcing).




Even if he did not mean the cords for use with an air conditioner

it would still not be advisable to use spliced cords...

KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA

If you want to have fire. Computer AC cord are very light gauge.
Won't handle the current a/c unit requires.

Stormin Mormon has brought this to us :
On 9/2/2015 2:25 PM, KenK wrote:
I have a big bunch of computer type power cords but very few A/C extension
cords. Any easy cheap way to convert a few? All I can think of is to cut
off the female plug and put on a standard three-wire A.C female plug. Am I
overlooking an easier cheaper way?

TIA


I've seen some folks put a junction box and
socket on. Then you get two sockets.

I put a rocker switch on some to use with table lamps. The switches on
the bulb sockets are harder to reach as the lamps get older.

--
....
For long you live and high you fly
But only if you ride the tide
And balanced on the biggest wave
You race towards an early grave.

On Thursday, September 3, 2015 at 6:10:55 AM UTC-5, FromTheRafters wrote:

The switches on
the bulb sockets are harder to reach as the lamps get older.

....not sure how that happens...sure it's not you getting older? ༼ ຈل͜ຈ༽ノŒ�–*-–*

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 9/2/2015 5:31 PM, Robert Green wrote:

Who here hasn't had a problem fishing a long cord from an equipment
stack like that? Or unplugged the wrong item? I try to label cords at
the
plug end just to be sure.

I bought a cheap P-touch label maker for that. The labels are "printed"
on ~1/2 wide vinyl (?) tape. I lay the label *along* the cord (power
cord, CAT5 cable, etc.). The 1/2" height of the label is not enough
to make it's way all the way around the cable (just *barely* makes
it around a CAT5 patch cord) so would easily fall off or be peeled off
when pulling cables.

I bought a few when they were selling as refurbs for less that $20 for the
full keyboard model that connects to a PC. I guess it's like King Gillette:
give away the razors to sell the blades (or in this case, blank label tape).

So, I use 2" wide cellophane packing tape cut to the length of the label
plus half an inch or so. Then, wrap it *around* the cable and label
to effectively protect and secure the label.

I've discovered that trick too because without it the labels flex off after
a period of time. Dymo makes a tape with a very aggressive glue but it's
very expensive and hard to remove when you want to. The clear tape overlay
makes removing old labels easy.

This part of the cable is then slightly less flexible but not badly.

I also use 1' mini-extension cords for things like plugging six "wall
warts"
into a powerstrip. The short extensions eliminate the problem with
power
adapters that cover one or more of the adjacent outlets. I use velcro
to
keep the power adapters attached to the piece of scrap shelving that I
attached the power strip to so that it's a little neater. They really
make
a difference if you've got a lot of wall-warts (like my charging station
that now has a record 37 chargers of different types. Really, chargers
for
cell phones, garden equipment, tools, batteries, shavers, kitchen gear,
laptops, PDAs, MP3 players, portable vacs, cameras, etc.) I, for one,
am
glad that the EU led the way in forcing phone makers (at least) to
standardize on the USB charging plug. I bought a universal solar
charger
for cell phones that came with 21 different adapters!!!!!!

These folks make a nice outlet strip for wall warts:
http://www.amazon.com/Furman-PLUGLOCK-5-Feet-Metal-Strip/dp/B001OMGZLQ
but it is insanely expensive!

Check out a similar item at Harbor Freight. About $20 for a 4 foot black
anodized strip with 12 outlets.

Lowe's has some that are suitable but, in my case, a bit too long.
As most of the guts were of molded plastic, I couldn't even cut it
down to size!

I've resigned myself to fabricating something. One of my workstations
has more than a dozen wall warts and I'd like to be able to switch them
individually on/off without having to unplug (or, unplug).

That gets to be expensive. I have an old power strip that has individually
switched outlets I got at a thrift store for a few bucks but that probably
cost well over $100 when new.

Thankfully (?), many of my devices use enough power to warrant *bricks*
instead of wall warts.

It used to be that bricks came with removable D cords to make replacing them
somewhat easier but I haven't seen one like that in a while. Must be a cost
thing.

--
Bobby G.

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 9/2/2015 5:47 PM, Robert Green wrote:
Did the OP mean A/C for air conditioner or alternating current? Now I
am
not sure.

"A/C" and "A.C" were used in the original post. Given the context of the
comment, it seemed obvious that A/C and A.C were both intended to be
"A.C." or "AC"

Obvious to you! (-: Not me.

If the former, no computer cable I've seen should be used. Just
not even current capacity (along with another friction fit point to
cause
arcing).

The modular power cord to one of my machines handles its 2200W load...

I hope you're not talking a PC that draws 2200W. That's a lot of juice.

--
Bobby G.

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 8:42:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Green wrote:
wrote in message

stuff snipped

Big problem is they are "generally" very light duty. Almost every one
I have around right now is only 18 guage -good for something between
2.3 and 7 amps, more or less, depending on length. Not much good as a
"general purpose" extention cord.

Agree. Even the ones that seem thick are actually 18AWG, sometimes 16 but
very rarely 14. I went looking for a 14AWG cord and found only one in a
box of dozens. IIRC it came from an AST Turbo Laser that dimmed the lights
when it booted up. (-:

For short, low wattage work I've bought adapters that have a male "D" plug
connected to a regular 110VAC outlet format. That turns it into a grounded
6 to 12' extension cord. Problem is, unless you shop for the lowest price
adapters, they end up being as costly as buying a new extension cord. Same
with putting a 110VAC plug on the cord. Those connectors cost $2 or more
each. Others may disagree, but I prefer a molded plug to a retrofitted one.

If you can find the "D" adapters cheap, they work out well. I like to use
them for wiring a stereo stack because you can label them for easy
breakdown/reconfiguration and bundle the cord that comes with the equipment
up so that you can unplug nearly in place instead of down at the power
strip. Who here hasn't had a problem fishing a long cord from an equipment
stack like that? Or unplugged the wrong item? I try to label cords at the
plug end just to be sure.

I also use 1' mini-extension cords for things like plugging six "wall warts"
into a powerstrip. The short extensions eliminate the problem with power
adapters that cover one or more of the adjacent outlets. I use velcro to
keep the power adapters attached to the piece of scrap shelving that I
attached the power strip to so that it's a little neater. They really make
a difference if you've got a lot of wall-warts (like my charging station
that now has a record 37 chargers of different types. Really, chargers for
cell phones, garden equipment, tools, batteries, shavers, kitchen gear,
laptops, PDAs, MP3 players, portable vacs, cameras, etc.) I, for one, am
glad that the EU led the way in forcing phone makers (at least) to
standardize on the USB charging plug. I bought a universal solar charger
for cell phones that came with 21 different adapters!!!!!!

--
Bobby G.

"(like my charging station that now has a record 37 chargers of
different types. Really, chargers for cell phones, garden equipment, tools,
batteries, shavers, kitchen gear, laptops, PDAs, MP3 players, portable
vacs, cameras, etc.)"

I am trying to get a visual handle on this. You have a single charging station for all of your chargeable devices? Are you charging your weed wacker in the bathroom with the shaver or charging the shaver in the garage with the weed wacker? I jest (somewhat) but only because I'm confused.

I charge my cell phone on the nightstand, I charge my cordless tools in the garage or shop, I charge my garden tools in the shed, etc. Are you really charging all of your devices in one location? Just curious.

Cheaper than the connector at the hardware store.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

Hi Bobby,

On 9/3/2015 5:54 AM, Robert Green wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 9/2/2015 5:31 PM, Robert Green wrote:

Who here hasn't had a problem fishing a long cord from an equipment
stack like that? Or unplugged the wrong item? I try to label cords at
the
plug end just to be sure.

I bought a cheap P-touch label maker for that. The labels are "printed"
on ~1/2 wide vinyl (?) tape. I lay the label *along* the cord (power
cord, CAT5 cable, etc.). The 1/2" height of the label is not enough
to make it's way all the way around the cable (just *barely* makes
it around a CAT5 patch cord) so would easily fall off or be peeled off
when pulling cables.

I bought a few when they were selling as refurbs for less that $20 for the
full keyboard model that connects to a PC.

Cool! I just bought one of the el cheapo's when Costco had them on sale.
I did so because I had "rescued" several new "ribbon" cartridges; I figured
I could afford to throw the whole thing in the trash when I ran out! :

I guess it's like King Gillette:
give away the razors to sell the blades (or in this case, blank label tape).

Exactly. (I always use toilet paper dispenser in place of your "razors"
example)

So, I use 2" wide cellophane packing tape cut to the length of the label
plus half an inch or so. Then, wrap it *around* the cable and label
to effectively protect and secure the label.

I've discovered that trick too because without it the labels flex off after
a period of time.

The packing tape will also start to come loose (at the edge) over time.
But, so far, hasn't come *off*.

Dymo makes a tape with a very aggressive glue but it's
very expensive and hard to remove when you want to. The clear tape overlay
makes removing old labels easy.

I have a much larger labeler (Kroy K2000):
http://members.tripod.com/~HANOVER_TECHNICAL/kroy03.html
that prints on heat-shrink tubing. A better solution -- but impractical
for cables with "connectors" already on both ends!

These folks make a nice outlet strip for wall warts:
http://www.amazon.com/Furman-PLUGLOCK-5-Feet-Metal-Strip/dp/B001OMGZLQ
but it is insanely expensive!

Check out a similar item at Harbor Freight. About $20 for a 4 foot black
anodized strip with 12 outlets.

Really? I'll have to look. Getting strips with the outlets "facing"
the right direction is a chore. The Lowe's strip (below) has everything
"just right"... but, it's too long (I need something around 2.5-3').
When I disassembled it to try to just "elide" one outlet, I was
disappointed to find that it was essentially one large assembly wrapped in
a metal case. :

Lowe's has some that are suitable but, in my case, a bit too long.
As most of the guts were of molded plastic, I couldn't even cut it
down to size!

I've resigned myself to fabricating something. One of my workstations
has more than a dozen wall warts and I'd like to be able to switch them
individually on/off without having to unplug (or, unplug).

That gets to be expensive. I have an old power strip that has individually
switched outlets I got at a thrift store for a few bucks but that probably
cost well over $100 when new.

If I can get the mechanical aspects (i.e., a case that I can mount
singleton receptacles in), then the rest of the components are
essentially free -- pick them from my parts bins. But, the case
the right length and outlet orientation is the ****er.

Thankfully (?), many of my devices use enough power to warrant *bricks*
instead of wall warts.

It used to be that bricks came with removable D cords to make replacing them
somewhat easier but I haven't seen one like that in a while. Must be a cost
thing.

All of my bricks (save one that I found for the P-Touch unit) have removable
power cords. I have cords in various lengths: 1', 3', 5-6', 12', etc.
So, I arrange to use the shortest cord possible (to keep the amount of
"cord clutter" down to a minimum).

I have a few bricks with Mickey's. Unfortunately, all of those cords are
the same length (apparently?).

On 9/3/2015 5:55 AM, Robert Green wrote:

If the former, no computer cable I've seen should be used. Just
not even current capacity (along with another friction fit point to
cause arcing).

The modular power cord to one of my machines handles its 2200W load...

I hope you're not talking a PC that draws 2200W. That's a lot of juice.

It's a computer. PC has a very specific connotation.

http://www.redbooks.ibm.com/Redbooks.nsf/RedbookAbstracts/tips0995.html

A wee bit bigger, heavier, NOISIER and more capable than most "PC's" :

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 8:38:58 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 9/2/2015 5:31 PM, Robert Green wrote:

Who here hasn't had a problem fishing a long cord from an equipment
stack like that? Or unplugged the wrong item? I try to label cords at the
plug end just to be sure.

I bought a cheap P-touch label maker for that. The labels are "printed"
on ~1/2 wide vinyl (?) tape. I lay the label *along* the cord (power
cord, CAT5 cable, etc.). The 1/2" height of the label is not enough
to make it's way all the way around the cable (just *barely* makes
it around a CAT5 patch cord) so would easily fall off or be peeled off
when pulling cables.

So, I use 2" wide cellophane packing tape cut to the length of the label
plus half an inch or so. Then, wrap it *around* the cable and label
to effectively protect and secure the label.

This part of the cable is then slightly less flexible but not badly.



What I've done for years to label cables when I think the label may not stick to the jacket and stay on is to print a label with the information on each end of a label long enough to stick the cable to the middle of the label then wrap it to make a flag with the ends of the adhesive backs stuck to each other. It sticks out from the cable and has enough space for more information. With a little practice, you can learn to make perfect fitting tags. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Tag Monster

On 9/3/2015 9:54 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:

So, I use 2" wide cellophane packing tape cut to the length of the label
plus half an inch or so. Then, wrap it *around* the cable and label to
effectively protect and secure the label.

This part of the cable is then slightly less flexible but not badly.

What I've done for years to label cables when I think the label may not
stick to the jacket and stay on is to print a label with the information on
each end of a label long enough to stick the cable to the middle of the
label then wrap it to make a flag with the ends of the adhesive backs stuck
to each other. It sticks out from the cable and has enough space for more
information. With a little practice, you can learn to make perfect fitting
tags. ^_^

.... then, when you pull the cable through a bundle of other cables,
you discover the "flag" gets stuck *or* tattered. I.e., I have a bundle
of 22 network cables tied to the underside of my workbench. They all
terminate at a switch mounted on one end of the bench.

When/if I need to replace a cable (e.g., if the device to which it
is attached gets moved a few feet from its present location, the OLD
cable will be too long or too short -- needing replacement), I have
to *pull* the old cable out of that bundle and thread a new one in
its' place.

You really want the label NOT to change the effective diameter of the cable.

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 9/3/2015 5:55 AM, Robert Green wrote:

If the former, no computer cable I've seen should be used. Just
not even current capacity (along with another friction fit point to
cause arcing).

The modular power cord to one of my machines handles its 2200W load...

I hope you're not talking a PC that draws 2200W. That's a lot of juice.

It's a computer. PC has a very specific connotation.

http://www.redbooks.ibm.com/Redbooks.nsf/RedbookAbstracts/tips0995.html

A wee bit bigger, heavier, NOISIER and more capable than most "PC's" :

Looks like that unit is designed for 240 volt operation so it only needs
about 10 amps. That makes the wiring size less than it would for 120 volt
operation.

Don Y writes:
On 9/2/2015 6:44 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 8:28:38 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

The modular power cord to one of my machines handles its 2200W load...

You're claiming you can power 2 toasters with that cord?

Yes. Or, two hair dryers, etc. (the computer draws 2200W)

It's also not using AWG18 cordsets.

On Thursday, September 3, 2015 at 1:06:42 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:
On 9/3/2015 9:54 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:

So, I use 2" wide cellophane packing tape cut to the length of the label
plus half an inch or so. Then, wrap it *around* the cable and label to
effectively protect and secure the label.

This part of the cable is then slightly less flexible but not badly.

What I've done for years to label cables when I think the label may not
stick to the jacket and stay on is to print a label with the information on
each end of a label long enough to stick the cable to the middle of the
label then wrap it to make a flag with the ends of the adhesive backs stuck
to each other. It sticks out from the cable and has enough space for more
information. With a little practice, you can learn to make perfect fitting
tags. ^_^

... then, when you pull the cable through a bundle of other cables,
you discover the "flag" gets stuck *or* tattered. I.e., I have a bundle
of 22 network cables tied to the underside of my workbench. They all
terminate at a switch mounted on one end of the bench.

When/if I need to replace a cable (e.g., if the device to which it
is attached gets moved a few feet from its present location, the OLD
cable will be too long or too short -- needing replacement), I have
to *pull* the old cable out of that bundle and thread a new one in
its' place.

You really want the label NOT to change the effective diameter of the cable.

Labels? Who needs labels?

https://static.spiceworks.com/attach...t-guy-0013.jpg