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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

Kenmore 106.56532400 side-by-side refrigerator/freezer (made by
Whirlpool, I understand) about 8-9 years old. Never a spot of trouble
until now.

It's quit making ice. The solenoids for the water valves have electrical
continuity (~250 and ~350 ohms). The freezer temperature is well below
10F. No sign of any blockage of the water-delivery tube.

I've found some on-line discussions of this model, with some suggested
diagnostic tests, one of which says to unplug the appliance, then plug
it in again, then open the freezer door within 60 seconds and observe
the flashing-LED sequences: different numbers of flashes are supposed to
indicate checks of different components. I do not see any flashes: when
I first open the freezer door, the LED is on solid, but then goes out
and after a short delay resumes its normal (normal for when the door is
open) flash-flash-pause sequence. If I hold in the little flap that
blocks the sensor beam, the LED is illuminated continuously.

I poured water into the ice-maker using a turkey baster, and there is
now ice, but the cubes are not being discharged into the dispenser.

Bad ice-maker unit, or bad control circuitry (i.e., expensive
printed-circuit board)?

Perce
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 7:48:56 AM UTC-5, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
Kenmore 106.56532400 side-by-side refrigerator/freezer (made by
Whirlpool, I understand) about 8-9 years old. Never a spot of trouble
until now.

It's quit making ice. The solenoids for the water valves have electrical
continuity (~250 and ~350 ohms). The freezer temperature is well below
10F. No sign of any blockage of the water-delivery tube.

I've found some on-line discussions of this model, with some suggested
diagnostic tests, one of which says to unplug the appliance, then plug
it in again, then open the freezer door within 60 seconds and observe
the flashing-LED sequences: different numbers of flashes are supposed to
indicate checks of different components. I do not see any flashes: when
I first open the freezer door, the LED is on solid, but then goes out
and after a short delay resumes its normal (normal for when the door is
open) flash-flash-pause sequence. If I hold in the little flap that
blocks the sensor beam, the LED is illuminated continuously.

I poured water into the ice-maker using a turkey baster, and there is
now ice, but the cubes are not being discharged into the dispenser.

Bad ice-maker unit, or bad control circuitry (i.e., expensive
printed-circuit board)?

Perce


You've probably checked already, but is there an ice cube jamming it up?
Couple weeks ago mine stopped making ice too. There was a cube caught in
the fingers that push the ice out.

Also, what position are those fingers in? In the start position?
Stopped somewhere in between? If it's in the normal home position,
does it move and go through a cycle? A piece of tape put on could
determine that. That would help isolate the problem. If it's a
no water problem, the mechanism would still be turning, going through
it's cycle. If it doesn't move, then you know it's something else.
At that point I guess it's find a schematic, which is often on the unit
behind one of the covers, and start debugging.
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On 2/15/2015 7:48 AM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:

Bad ice-maker unit, or bad control circuitry (i.e., expensive
printed-circuit board)?

Perce



My money is on the ice maker. It is the most common repair needed on
refrigerators. Make sure nothing is hindering the cycle. Sometimes a
cube get stuck in the fingers and jams it. If that is the problem once
unjammed it may have to go through a dry cycle before it fills again.

Worse case scenario is to replace the unit. I'd remove it, let that,
then try it again.
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote in message

Kenmore 106.56532400 side-by-side refrigerator/freezer (made by
Whirlpool, I understand) about 8-9 years old. Never a spot of trouble
until now.

It's quit making ice. The solenoids for the water valves have electrical
continuity (~250 and ~350 ohms). The freezer temperature is well below
10F. No sign of any blockage of the water-delivery tube.


How do you know the delivery tube isn't blocked? Have you defrosted it
recently?

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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On 02/15/2015 10:17 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Bad ice-maker unit, or bad control circuitry (i.e., expensive
printed-circuit board)?


My money is on the ice maker. It is the most common repair needed on
refrigerators. Make sure nothing is hindering the cycle. Sometimes a
cube get stuck in the fingers and jams it. If that is the problem once
unjammed it may have to go through a dry cycle before it fills again.

Worse case scenario is to replace the unit. I'd remove it, let that,
then try it again.


I found the diagnostic chart behind the kick panel and could then see
where the contacts were that others had mentioned. I jumpered the H and
T contacts to bypass the bi-metal strip and the thing got warm, but the
mechanism did not turn, so I assumed that the little motor has died (I
had a similar motor on a washing machine die a few decades ago).
HOWEVER, the motor is not open circuit: DC resistance of ~4K Ohms. But I
did see that the gear wheel marked "do not turn manually" slides in and
out on its shaft and does not always allow the contacts on its underside
to contact the "fingers" that poke through from the inside. Yet even
pushing the wheel in and jumpering the H and T contacts does not cause
the mechanism to operate and push the ice cubes out.

Perce



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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 07:48:51 -0500, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

Kenmore 106.56532400 side-by-side refrigerator/freezer (made by
Whirlpool, I understand) about 8-9 years old. Never a spot of trouble
until now.

It's quit making ice. The solenoids for the water valves have electrical
continuity (~250 and ~350 ohms). The freezer temperature is well below
10F. No sign of any blockage of the water-delivery tube.

I've found some on-line discussions of this model, with some suggested
diagnostic tests, one of which says to unplug the appliance, then plug
it in again, then open the freezer door within 60 seconds and observe
the flashing-LED sequences: different numbers of flashes are supposed to
indicate checks of different components. I do not see any flashes: when
I first open the freezer door, the LED is on solid, but then goes out
and after a short delay resumes its normal (normal for when the door is
open) flash-flash-pause sequence. If I hold in the little flap that
blocks the sensor beam, the LED is illuminated continuously.

I poured water into the ice-maker using a turkey baster, and there is
now ice, but the cubes are not being discharged into the dispenser.

Bad ice-maker unit, or bad control circuitry (i.e., expensive
printed-circuit board)?

Perce


"Kenmore Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working
106.56532400

The 8 most common part(s) or condition(s) which cause the symptom
Refrigerator ice maker not working are listed below starting with the
most likely. Check or test each item and watch any available videos."

http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Refrigerator/53-6-684216-/Kenmore-Refrigerator-ice-maker-not-working-10656532400

https://tinyurl.com/mhsy62a

I'd first draw a half gallon of water through the door dispenser;
seeing if the line has air in it - after a filter change?
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On Sun, 15 Feb 2015 10:29:50 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

It's quit making ice. The solenoids for the water valves have electrical
continuity (~250 and ~350 ohms). The freezer temperature is well below
10F. No sign of any blockage of the water-delivery tube.


How do you know the delivery tube isn't blocked? Have you defrosted it
recently?


.... testing the solenoid Ohms doesn't mean the valve allows water to
pass through. It can test good but then be stuck, preventing water
flow. So I've read.
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On 02/15/2015 06:21 PM, Oren wrote:

It's quit making ice. The solenoids for the water valves have electrical
continuity (~250 and ~350 ohms). The freezer temperature is well below
10F. No sign of any blockage of the water-delivery tube.


How do you know the delivery tube isn't blocked? Have you defrosted it
recently?


... testing the solenoid Ohms doesn't mean the valve allows water to
pass through. It can test good but then be stuck, preventing water
flow. So I've read.


I know that. BUT even when I add water manually, it makes ice cubes but
doesn't push them out. And I have now repeated the diagnostics test and
get the three flashes (not repeated) that indicate that the ice maker
itself is defective.

Perce

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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice


... testing the solenoid Ohms doesn't mean the valve allows water to
pass through. It can test good but then be stuck, preventing water
flow. So I've read.


I have had 3 ice makers fail to make ice, no fill situations......

all 3 had bad solenoids........

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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice


I know that. BUT even when I add water manually, it makes ice cubes but
doesn't push them out. And I have now repeated the diagnostics test and
get the three flashes (not repeated) that indicate that the ice maker
itself is defective.

Perce


cheapestfix is a new ice maker kit with solenoid. buy the kit, but replace the solenoid first



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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 7:48:56 AM UTC-5, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
Kenmore 106.56532400 side-by-side refrigerator/freezer (made by
Whirlpool, I understand) about 8-9 years old. Never a spot of trouble
until now.

It's quit making ice. The solenoids for the water valves have electrical
continuity (~250 and ~350 ohms). The freezer temperature is well below
10F. No sign of any blockage of the water-delivery tube.

I've found some on-line discussions of this model, with some suggested
diagnostic tests, one of which says to unplug the appliance, then plug
it in again, then open the freezer door within 60 seconds and observe
the flashing-LED sequences: different numbers of flashes are supposed to
indicate checks of different components. I do not see any flashes: when
I first open the freezer door, the LED is on solid, but then goes out
and after a short delay resumes its normal (normal for when the door is
open) flash-flash-pause sequence. If I hold in the little flap that
blocks the sensor beam, the LED is illuminated continuously.

I poured water into the ice-maker using a turkey baster, and there is
now ice, but the cubes are not being discharged into the dispenser.

Bad ice-maker unit, or bad control circuitry (i.e., expensive
printed-circuit board)?

Perce


When mine wouldn't make or discharge ice, I filled a spray bottle with hot water and sprayed it into the area where the ice cubes form before discharge. I gave it a good soaking and it started working again. Must have been a bit of ice lodged in there somewhere that the hot water melted and washed away.

Paul
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On 2/15/2015 7:48 AM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
Kenmore 106.56532400 side-by-side refrigerator/freezer (made by
Whirlpool, I understand) about 8-9 years old. Never a spot of trouble
until now.

It's quit making ice. The solenoids for the water valves have electrical
continuity (~250 and ~350 ohms). The freezer temperature is well below
10F. No sign of any blockage of the water-delivery tube.

I've found some on-line discussions of this model, with some suggested
diagnostic tests, one of which says to unplug the appliance, then plug
it in again, then open the freezer door within 60 seconds and observe
the flashing-LED sequences: different numbers of flashes are supposed to
indicate checks of different components. I do not see any flashes: when
I first open the freezer door, the LED is on solid, but then goes out
and after a short delay resumes its normal (normal for when the door is
open) flash-flash-pause sequence. If I hold in the little flap that
blocks the sensor beam, the LED is illuminated continuously.

I poured water into the ice-maker using a turkey baster, and there is
now ice, but the cubes are not being discharged into the dispenser.

Bad ice-maker unit, or bad control circuitry (i.e., expensive
printed-circuit board)?

Perce


I haven't read many responses, mainly because I don't know anything
about the electrical discussion. We have a Frigidaire SBS that had
intermittent problems with the icemaker. Had a repair guy out once, who
was too obese to get down and really tinker behind the fridge; he
finally decided it was water pressure and went down to the basement and
changed out the little saddle valve for the water supply. Worked for a
little while. I was tempted to just order a new icemaker, but
fortunately found AppliancePartsPros.com....they have all kinds of
instructional videos, model specific, as well as terrific on-line
assessment of your individual problems. I sent a description of our
finicky, intermittent icemaking lapses and got back a suggestion to
order (with part number) the control valve that goes on the back of the
fridge. The instructions supplied with the part were kind of vague (to
me), but their video for changing out the part was great! And it works!
You can also read other users' problems and solutions, and
AppliancePartsPros.com then sent an inquiry to find out whether your
problem is solved. I give them five stars!
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On Mon, 16 Feb 2015 15:36:16 -0500, Norminn
wrote:

Had a repair guy out once, who
was too obese to get down and really tinker behind the fridge; he
finally decided it was water pressure and went down to the basement and
changed out the little saddle valve for the water supply.


From my reading, an ice maker will operate, flow water at 20 PSI water
pressure, I haven't found a need to change it. Concentrate on the
unit parts and fix what failed.
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On Monday, February 16, 2015 at 7:17:00 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 16 Feb 2015 15:36:16 -0500, Norminn
wrote:

Had a repair guy out once, who
was too obese to get down and really tinker behind the fridge; he
finally decided it was water pressure and went down to the basement and
changed out the little saddle valve for the water supply.


From my reading, an ice maker will operate, flow water at 20 PSI water
pressure, I haven't found a need to change it. Concentrate on the
unit parts and fix what failed.


theres flow, and pressure. they arent the same...

the solenoid valve is the most likely failed part


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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On 2/16/2015 7:40 PM, bob haller wrote:

From my reading, an ice maker will operate, flow water at 20 PSI water
pressure, I haven't found a need to change it. Concentrate on the
unit parts and fix what failed.


theres flow, and pressure. they arent the same...

the solenoid valve is the most likely failed part


My experience is opposite yours. I'd replace the solenoid last. Wen he
filled it by hand it did not rotate and eject the cubes.
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On Monday, February 16, 2015 at 10:49:47 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/16/2015 7:40 PM, bob haller wrote:

From my reading, an ice maker will operate, flow water at 20 PSI water
pressure, I haven't found a need to change it. Concentrate on the
unit parts and fix what failed.


theres flow, and pressure. they arent the same...

the solenoid valve is the most likely failed part


My experience is opposite yours. I'd replace the solenoid last. Wen he
filled it by hand it did not rotate and eject the cubes.


buying just the icemaker without the solenoid saves little money, and the solenoid purchased seperately is much more expensive.

so buy a ice maker kit that includes both, and begin by replacing the solenoid valve its a easy swap.

if it doesnt fix it then replace the ice maker assembly, at least it has a new solenoid valve.
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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On 02/17/2015 08:08 AM, bob haller wrote:

From my reading, an ice maker will operate, flow water at 20 PSI water
pressure, I haven't found a need to change it. Concentrate on the
unit parts and fix what failed.

theres flow, and pressure. they arent the same...

the solenoid valve is the most likely failed part


My experience is opposite yours. I'd replace the solenoid last. Wen he
filled it by hand it did not rotate and eject the cubes.


buying just the icemaker without the solenoid saves little money, and the solenoid purchased seperately is much more expensive.

so buy a ice maker kit that includes both, and begin by replacing the solenoid valve its a easy swap.

if it doesnt fix it then replace the ice maker assembly, at least it has a new solenoid valve.


I saw no sign of a whole kit (including solenoid; in fact it would have
to be a double solenoid assembly -- one for water, one for ice) being
offered -- only the ice maker and solenoid separately. I could have
bought just what I previously called the "drive assembly," but I chose
to buy the whole ice maker unit for not that much more; should be here
by the end of the week.

Perce

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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On 02/17/2015 08:08 AM, bob haller wrote:

From my reading, an ice maker will operate, flow water at 20 PSI water
pressure, I haven't found a need to change it. Concentrate on the
unit parts and fix what failed.

theres flow, and pressure. they arent the same...

the solenoid valve is the most likely failed part


My experience is opposite yours. I'd replace the solenoid last. Wen he
filled it by hand it did not rotate and eject the cubes.


buying just the icemaker without the solenoid saves little money, and the solenoid purchased seperately is much more expensive.

so buy a ice maker kit that includes both, and begin by replacing the solenoid valve its a easy swap.

if it doesnt fix it then replace the ice maker assembly, at least it has a new solenoid valve.


I saw no sign of a whole kit (including solenoid; in fact it would have
to be a double solenoid assembly -- one for water, one for ice) being
offered -- only the ice maker and solenoid separately. I could have
bought just what I previously called the "drive assembly," but I chose
to buy the whole ice maker unit for not that much more; should be here
by the end of the week.

Perce


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Default Kenmore side-by-side: no ice

On 2/17/2015 9:47 AM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
I saw no sign of a whole kit (including solenoid; in fact it would have
to be a double solenoid assembly -- one for water, one for ice) being
offered -- only the ice maker and solenoid separately. I could have
bought just what I previously called the "drive assembly," but I chose
to buy the whole ice maker unit for not that much more; should be here
by the end of the week.

Perce



I've replaced several of these for customers.
Mention if you want some tips.

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