PVC Pipe Through 3/8" Ply: Caulking Or.... ?
 

viz:
http://tinyurl.com/mb4jqph
http://tinyurl.com/k2zbnoq
http://tinyurl.com/lk87r54

It's Schedule 40 PVC pipe and I figure I'll just put a bead of white
silicone caulk around on each side and sort of knead it in so if fills
the clearance gap.

Exhaust heat is not an issue: I left the device running for an hour with
no hole in the door and the muffler 2" from the wood and the wood was
barely warm. I can hold my bare hand up to the exhaust no problem.

Main function of the caulk is to keep the PVC from falling out and maybe
take the occasional bump - but nothing more.

Since the caulk I have won't go off until temps are in the sixties I've
got plenty time and figured Greater Minds Than Mine might know of
something more appropriate.

--
Pete Cresswell

PVC Pipe Through 3/8" Ply: Caulking Or.... ?
 

On Monday, March 10, 2014 3:44:17 PM UTC-4, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
viz:

http://tinyurl.com/mb4jqph

http://tinyurl.com/k2zbnoq

http://tinyurl.com/lk87r54



It's Schedule 40 PVC pipe and I figure I'll just put a bead of white

silicone caulk around on each side and sort of knead it in so if fills

the clearance gap.



Exhaust heat is not an issue: I left the device running for an hour with

no hole in the door and the muffler 2" from the wood and the wood was

barely warm. I can hold my bare hand up to the exhaust no problem.



Main function of the caulk is to keep the PVC from falling out and maybe

take the occasional bump - but nothing more.



Since the caulk I have won't go off until temps are in the sixties I've

got plenty time and figured Greater Minds Than Mine might know of

something more appropriate.



--

Pete Cresswell

That's what I would use.

PVC Pipe Through 3/8" Ply: Caulking Or.... ?
 

Hi Pete,

http://tinyurl.com/mb4jqph
http://tinyurl.com/k2zbnoq
http://tinyurl.com/lk87r54

It's Schedule 40 PVC pipe and I figure I'll just put a bead of white
silicone caulk around on each side and sort of knead it in so if fills
the clearance gap.
Exhaust heat is not an issue: I left the device running for an hour
with no hole in the door and the muffler 2" from the wood and the wood
was barely warm. I can hold my bare hand up to the exhaust no
problem. Main function of the caulk is to keep the PVC from falling
out and maybe take the occasional bump - but nothing more.
Since the caulk I have won't go off until temps are in the sixties I've
got plenty time and figured Greater Minds Than Mine might know of
something more appropriate.

Is that a shop vac, a generator, or something else? If the exhaust port
of the device is plastic, you're probably fine using PVC. If the exhaust
port is metal, you may want to use metal pipe instead of PVC.

I'm also curious why you reduced the full size port down to a smaller
size? That would reduce air flow, which could be a bigger issue than the
caulk. I would try to keep the same size pipe all the way out, especially
considering the short distance you traveling.

Assuming the PVC pipe is appropriate for your situation, I see no reason
why you couldn't use caulk to seal between the plywood and PVC. If the
gap is larger than 1/8 inch or so, you might want to fill the gap with
"foam backer rod" before applying the caulk. You can find that in various
sizes in the home centers where weatherstripping is sold. It minimizes
the amount of caulk you need to pump into the hole, but more importantly
it allows the caulk to flex more than a big thick chunk of caulk. A
thinner application will cure quicker too.

If you want to get fancy, they sell PVC trim rings to fit around PVC
pipe. They're normally used where drain pipes penetrate sheetrock. Dab a
little caulk underneath and slide the trim ring on. The trim rings are
usually stocked in the plumbing area near the traps and valves.

I don't know what your application is, but you should probably install an
elbow facing down on the exterior of your structure. This will prevent
rainwater from blowing in and draining back to your appliance.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

PVC Pipe Through 3/8" Ply: Caulking Or.... ?
 

On 3/10/2014 3:44 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
viz:
http://tinyurl.com/mb4jqph
http://tinyurl.com/k2zbnoq
http://tinyurl.com/lk87r54

It's Schedule 40 PVC pipe and I figure I'll just put a bead of white
silicone caulk around on each side and sort of knead it in so if fills
the clearance gap.

Exhaust heat is not an issue: I left the device running for an hour with
no hole in the door and the muffler 2" from the wood and the wood was
barely warm. I can hold my bare hand up to the exhaust no problem.

Main function of the caulk is to keep the PVC from falling out and maybe
take the occasional bump - but nothing more.

Since the caulk I have won't go off until temps are in the sixties I've
got plenty time and figured Greater Minds Than Mine might know of
something more appropriate.


Dear (PeteCresswell),
When I did heating and AC, we used Diversigum
http://www.diversitech.com/Product-S...000000JpCtjIAF

item # 6-202-1 in the box. Roll it like
Play-doh snake, push some around the outside
much like caulk. Lasts nearly forever, and
pretty much non hardening.



--
..
(Christopher A. Young)
Learn about (Jesus)
www.lds.org
..

PVC Pipe Through 3/8" Ply: Caulking Or.... ?
 

Some sizes of PVC pipe telescope within one another. So slide the next size up on either end and caulk the connection point.

PVC Pipe Through 3/8" Ply: Caulking Or.... ?
 

Per bob haller:
Some sizes of PVC pipe telescope within one another. So slide the next size up on either end and caulk the connection point.

That's what I spent a half hour rummaging though Home Depot's pipe
section trying to find. Seemed like it would add a little bump
resistance too.

Now that I know it's possible, I'll go back and look some more.
--
Pete Cresswell

PVC Pipe Through 3/8" Ply: Caulking Or.... ?
 

On 3/10/2014 3:44 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
viz:
http://tinyurl.com/mb4jqph
http://tinyurl.com/k2zbnoq
http://tinyurl.com/lk87r54

It's Schedule 40 PVC pipe and I figure I'll just put a bead of white
silicone caulk around on each side and sort of knead it in so if fills
the clearance gap.

What is the budget?

Option 1
Machine a ring from 316 stainless steel exterior would have grooves to
hold a Buna-N O ring on either side of the wall. Interior would have a
silicone sleeve to hold the PVC in place and absorb vibration.

Estimated cost $176.50

Option 2
Silicone caulk