[note google has again goofed up my access to Usenet so I will not be able to respond timely]

We have stone flooring that butts against the drywall.
Not sure, but think the stone is over thin masonite-like layer, over some soft layer, over slab concrete. At the edge, it appears they originally put in grout, but that grout crumbles out easily, plus painting the wall down to the flooring does NOT make a nice edge.
What caluking, or something like that, can I use to make the transition pliable to not crack in the future, yet hard enough to resemble grout?

The drywall extends behind the stone tiles [stone tiles are 1/2 inch thick] and most of the original grouting is cracked and crumbling out. Worst construction technique I've seen in a long time, but I have to change it. Just don't know how.

At the metal sliding doors, I plan on using clear, since overlap won't show and the crack is dark enough to match the doors.

The stone is patterned, but generally, light cream colored limestone out of Turkey.

What about nailing a baseboard to the wall?

"Robert Macy" wrote in message

[note google has again goofed up my access to Usenet so I
will not be able to respond timely]

We have stone flooring that butts against the drywall.
Not sure, but think the stone is over thin masonite-like
layer, over some soft layer, over slab concrete. At the
edge, it appears they originally put in grout, but that
grout crumbles out easily, plus painting the wall down to
the flooring does NOT make a nice edge.
What caluking, or something like that, can I use to make
the transition pliable to not crack in the future, yet
hard enough to resemble grout?

Use a baseboard. If you do, leave a slight gap between it and the stone so
that the stone can be masked when repainting the basebord.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:45:36 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

[note google has again goofed up my access to Usenet so I will not be able to respond timely]

We have stone flooring that butts against the drywall.
Not sure, but think the stone is over thin masonite-like layer, over some soft layer, over slab concrete. At the edge, it appears they originally put in grout, but that grout crumbles out easily, plus painting the wall down to the flooring does NOT make a nice edge.
What caluking, or something like that, can I use to make the transition pliable to not crack in the future, yet hard enough to resemble grout?

The drywall extends behind the stone tiles [stone tiles are 1/2 inch thick] and most of the original grouting is cracked and crumbling out. Worst construction technique I've seen in a long time, but I have to change it. Just don't know how.

At the metal sliding doors, I plan on using clear, since overlap won't show and the crack is dark enough to match the doors.

The stone is patterned, but generally, light cream colored limestone out of Turkey.
Sanded caulk. Looks like grout, flexible like caulk. Available in
most grout colours

On Sunday, July 21, 2013 6:49:29 PM UTC-4, nestork wrote:
'Robert Macy[_2_ Wrote:

;3095324'][note google has again goofed up my access to Usenet so I will

not be able to respond timely]



We have stone flooring that butts against the drywall.

Not sure, but think the stone is over thin masonite-like layer, over

some soft layer, over slab concrete. At the edge, it appears they

originally put in grout, but that grout crumbles out easily, plus

painting the wall down to the flooring does NOT make a nice edge.

What caluking, or something like that, can I use to make the transition

pliable to not crack in the future, yet hard enough to resemble grout?



The drywall extends behind the stone tiles [stone tiles are 1/2 inch

thick] and most of the original grouting is cracked and crumbling out.

Worst construction technique I've seen in a long time, but I have to

change it. Just don't know how.



At the metal sliding doors, I plan on using clear, since overlap won't

show and the crack is dark enough to match the doors.



The stone is patterned, but generally, light cream colored limestone out

of Turkey.



What about nailing a baseboard to the wall?



+1

Baseboard/molding is how it's typically done because it works
and it looks good.

On 07/22/2013 12:24 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:45:36 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

[note google has again goofed up my access to Usenet so I will not be able to respond timely]

We have stone flooring that butts against the drywall.
Not sure, but think the stone is over thin masonite-like layer, over some soft layer, over slab concrete. At the edge, it appears they originally put in grout, but that grout crumbles out easily, plus painting the wall down to the flooring does NOT make a nice edge.
What caluking, or something like that, can I use to make the transition pliable to not crack in the future, yet hard enough to resemble grout?

The drywall extends behind the stone tiles [stone tiles are 1/2 inch thick] and most of the original grouting is cracked and crumbling out. Worst construction technique I've seen in a long time, but I have to change it. Just don't know how.

At the metal sliding doors, I plan on using clear, since overlap won't show and the crack is dark enough to match the doors.

The stone is patterned, but generally, light cream colored limestone out of Turkey.
Sanded caulk. Looks like grout, flexible like caulk. Available in
most grout colours


No baseboards? That would be the easiest way I would think to make it
look intentional, neat, and finished.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Robert Macy wrote:
[note google has again goofed up my access to Usenet so I will not be
able to respond timely]

We have stone flooring that butts against the drywall.
Not sure, but think the stone is over thin masonite-like layer, over
some soft layer, over slab concrete. At the edge, it appears they
originally put in grout, but that grout crumbles out easily, plus
painting the wall down to the flooring does NOT make a nice edge.
What caluking, or something like that, can I use to make the
transition pliable to not crack in the future, yet hard enough to
resemble grout?

The drywall extends behind the stone tiles [stone tiles are 1/2 inch
thick] and most of the original grouting is cracked and crumbling
out. Worst construction technique I've seen in a long time, but I
have to change it. Just don't know how.

At the metal sliding doors, I plan on using clear, since overlap
won't show and the crack is dark enough to match the doors.

The stone is patterned, but generally, light cream colored limestone
out of Turkey.

I think that baseboard, of course, would be a good idea.

But, if you don't want to do that, then finding silicone caulk that matches
(or almost matches) the existing grout color would work. That will stay
flexible and it won't crack like the rigid grout is now doing.

Someone here mentioned that they sell sanded caulk in colors. I have never
seen that, but maybe you could look for that. Just make sure that it is a
type of caulk that's stays a little flexible and won't crack -- hopefully
that's what it is.

On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 12:54:51 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

Robert Macy wrote:
[note google has again goofed up my access to Usenet so I will not be
able to respond timely]

We have stone flooring that butts against the drywall.
Not sure, but think the stone is over thin masonite-like layer, over
some soft layer, over slab concrete. At the edge, it appears they
originally put in grout, but that grout crumbles out easily, plus
painting the wall down to the flooring does NOT make a nice edge.
What caluking, or something like that, can I use to make the
transition pliable to not crack in the future, yet hard enough to
resemble grout?

The drywall extends behind the stone tiles [stone tiles are 1/2 inch
thick] and most of the original grouting is cracked and crumbling
out. Worst construction technique I've seen in a long time, but I
have to change it. Just don't know how.

At the metal sliding doors, I plan on using clear, since overlap
won't show and the crack is dark enough to match the doors.

The stone is patterned, but generally, light cream colored limestone
out of Turkey.

I think that baseboard, of course, would be a good idea.

But, if you don't want to do that, then finding silicone caulk that matches
(or almost matches) the existing grout color would work. That will stay
flexible and it won't crack like the rigid grout is now doing.

Someone here mentioned that they sell sanded caulk in colors. I have never
seen that, but maybe you could look for that. Just make sure that it is a
type of caulk that's stays a little flexible and won't crack -- hopefully
that's what it is.

google laticrete sanded caulk. It's about $6 a tube.

wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 12:54:51 -0400, "TomR" wrote:
Someone here mentioned that they sell sanded caulk in colors. I
have never seen that, but maybe you could look for that. Just make
sure that it is a type of caulk that's stays a little flexible and
won't crack -- hopefully that's what it is.

google laticrete sanded caulk. It's about $6 a tube.

Okay, I did the Google search. I still can't tell for sure if they make
sanded caulk that is also 100% silicone, or if the only sanded caulk they
make is "acrylic caulk" that is "siliconized". Since there is a difference
in flexibility and waterproof properties between 100% silicone caulk and
"siliconized" acrylic caulk, I was curious.

I don't need either one right now, but I was just curious. If it ever comes
up that I need either one, I'll check what I see in the stores and read the
labels carefully to be sure. I asked because I never heard of sanded 100%
silicone caulk.

On Tuesday, July 23, 2013 3:54:35 PM UTC-7, TomR wrote:
wrote: On Mon, 22 Jul 2013 12:54:51 -0400, "TomR" wrote: Someone here mentioned that they sell sanded caulk in colors. I have never seen that, but maybe you could look for that. Just make sure that it is a type of caulk that's stays a little flexible and won't crack -- hopefully that's what it is. google laticrete sanded caulk. It's about $6 a tube. Okay, I did the Google search. I still can't tell for sure if they make sanded caulk that is also 100% silicone, or if the only sanded caulk they make is "acrylic caulk" that is "siliconized". Since there is a difference in flexibility and waterproof properties between 100% silicone caulk and "siliconized" acrylic caulk, I was curious. I don't need either one right now, but I was just curious. If it ever comes up that I need either one, I'll check what I see in the stores and read the labels carefully to be sure. I asked because I never heard of sanded 100% silicone caulk.

nice way google adds these quotes, eh?

the sanded caulk product at Home Depot is labeled 'acrylic' and 'siliconized', evidently it is acrylic that is siliconized.

just got some tubes delorean gray and natural gray couldn't tell which one is the best color match. will find the best color, try, and post back results of what it's like to work with this stuff.

On Sunday, July 21, 2013 2:45:36 PM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
[note google has again goofed up my access to Usenet so I will not be able to respond timely] We have stone flooring that butts against the drywall. Not sure, but think the stone is over thin masonite-like layer, over some soft layer, over slab concrete. At the edge, it appears they originally put in grout, but that grout crumbles out easily, plus painting the wall down to the flooring does NOT make a nice edge. What caluking, or something like that, can I use to make the transition pliable to not crack in the future, yet hard enough to resemble grout? The drywall extends behind the stone tiles [stone tiles are 1/2 inch thick] and most of the original grouting is cracked and crumbling out. Worst construction technique I've seen in a long time, but I have to change it. Just don't know how. At the metal sliding doors, I plan on using clear, since overlap won't show and the crack is dark enough to match the doors. The stone is patterned, but generally, light cream colored limestone out of Turkey.

If there is no baseboard, then the wall is subject to scuff marks from anything that touches the wall and floor. I definitely vote for baseboard, and leave a gap between the bottom of the baseboard and the top of the stone enough that you can slip a piece of cardboard from a cereal box between the stone and the bottom of the baseboard for when you finish the baseboard. Assuming you have a stud finder and/or a floor-level plate behind the sheetrock, you have a good backing for the baseboard. Otherwise, some construction adhesive will hold it in place.