We should start a thread on "made it work, with what we got on hand". One of
my favs, was when a motorist's auto accelerator cable shield frazzled. Gas
pedal flat on the floor. I had some nylon line, so I rigged it around and
over. Pull the cord to accelerate. I hope he go thome OK.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 19:32:19 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I have long believed that you are exceptional.
My gut sense, through the usenet group, is that
you have a wide variety of skills.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Thanks. Wide and long experience, and necessity being the mother of
invention, and all that. - a voracious reader with extremely varied
interests.

On Mon, 07 Jan 2013 20:42:00 -0500, wrote:




That's what the old Onan single lunger out in the garage is for. If
the power is out long enough to get dangerously cold inside, I go out
and connect the Onan and start pulling on the (non recoil) rope
starter. I'll get warmed up, even if the genny doesn't start and I
don't get the furnace running...

Onanism often started out in the garage or barn, but it was not
pulling the rope.

On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 21:29:37 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

How old you figure, in dog years?

Old enough to not have a recoil starter. Similar to the one at;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozO_MK6JJCM, but square tank and no
recoil.. My guess? sicties.

Don't tell me, you're backfeeding?


Technically, perhaps, but with my old panel it's foolproof. I can
only connect to 2 different circuits - - and it cannot backfeed to any
other circuits . It involves pull-out fuse blocks on an old
ammalgamated panel. When I put in a new breaker panel I'll have to
re-engineer things.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
.. .

That's what the old Onan single lunger out in the garage is for. If
the power is out long enough to get dangerously cold inside, I go out
and connect the Onan and start pulling on the (non recoil) rope
starter. I'll get warmed up, even if the genny doesn't start and I
don't get the furnace running... The thing is definitely old enough to
vote - I doubt it's older than be, but it could be pretty close. I've
got a disconnect in the garage that lets me tap into the furnace
circuit in the winter and the freezer/fridge i n the summer.

On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 21:31:12 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

We should start a thread on "made it work, with what we got on hand". One of
my favs, was when a motorist's auto accelerator cable shield frazzled. Gas
pedal flat on the floor. I had some nylon line, so I rigged it around and
over. Pull the cord to accelerate. I hope he go thome OK.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 19:32:19 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I have long believed that you are exceptional.
My gut sense, through the usenet group, is that
you have a wide variety of skills.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Thanks. Wide and long experience, and necessity being the mother of
invention, and all that. - a voracious reader with extremely varied
interests.


Best one I saw was a newfoundlander with a '55 Pontiac came into the
shop and wanted to borrow a few wrenches. The old six was knocking to
beat the band. He dropped the pan, disconnected the blown con-rod and
jammed the piston up to the top of the cyl with a piece of 2X4, then
cut odd a few inches of his belt and clamped it onto the crank with a
hose-clamp. He buttoned it up and returned my wrenches, then headed
back to Nfld from Elmira Ontario.

On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 19:35:37 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Yow, life imitates fiction. In my book "Custodian
Plus" I wrote of the gas valve on the steam boiler,
and how the custodian was able to "throw the
lever" and open the gas valve, during the power
cut. Thanks, glad to know it's not totally fiction.

I've heard that 12 vdc will open some "modern"
gas valves. 24 VDC (two car batteries in series)
might work instead of 24 VAC. Don't know.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...


The instructions included a section on how to heat the house during a
power failure. You could manually open the main gas valve and push in
a tab that would hold the valve open. No power meant no blower and no
high temperature cutoff.

The instructions said to use a 10 minute on - 30 minute off duty
cycle, but it was completely manual. Fall asleep and it would stay on
for hours. I assume bad things could happen, especially to the heat
exchanger with no blower to remove the heat.

When the gas valve went bad, they had to replace it with a modern one
that no longer had that "feature". The next winter we had an ice storm
and I was without power (and my furnace) for 4 days.

I heard that Mormons squeak while having sex !!!!

Some troll, a master at baiting, is about to drop
a load on the ground, in this group. What a
jerk off!

"Can I wire and power just enough lights to
need glasses?"

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
I go out
and connect the Onan and start pulling on the (non recoil) rope
starter. I'll get warmed up, even if the genny doesn't start and I
don't get the furnace running...

Onanism often started out in the garage or barn, but it was not
pulling the rope.

Sigh. It's true. We have to do marital relations
oily in the moining.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

I heard that Mormons squeak while having sex !!!!

I had an old lawn mower with a rope start, no recoil. I finally made a rig
for my electric drill, so I could spin the flywheel via the nut, and get it
going that way. Doesn't apply to generator, used when the power is out.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

How old you figure, in dog years?

Old enough to not have a recoil starter. Similar to the one at;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozO_MK6JJCM, but square tank and no
recoil.. My guess? sicties.

Don't tell me, you're backfeeding?


Technically, perhaps, but with my old panel it's foolproof. I can
only connect to 2 different circuits - - and it cannot backfeed to any
other circuits . It involves pull-out fuse blocks on an old
ammalgamated panel. When I put in a new breaker panel I'll have to
re-engineer things.

So... I thought the system would let me know when people replied to my post... so I came back to see if I could bump this and WOW, everyone here has given me a ton of leads and advice... Thank you so much to everyone who replied!!

On Tue, 8 Jan 2013 09:55:40 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I had an old lawn mower with a rope start, no recoil. I finally made a rig
for my electric drill, so I could spin the flywheel via the nut, and get it
going that way. Doesn't apply to generator, used when the power is out.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

I did it once - on the Onan - and when it started it took the
flywheel nut/bolt right off. On the other hand, that's how a friend
of mine started his Honda lawn mower for 2 seasons after he pulled the
rope out of the starter.

wrote in message
.. .

How old you figure, in dog years?

Old enough to not have a recoil starter. Similar to the one at;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozO_MK6JJCM, but square tank and no
recoil.. My guess? sicties.

Don't tell me, you're backfeeding?


Technically, perhaps, but with my old panel it's foolproof. I can
only connect to 2 different circuits - - and it cannot backfeed to any
other circuits . It involves pull-out fuse blocks on an old
ammalgamated panel. When I put in a new breaker panel I'll have to
re-engineer things.

On Jan 6, 11:50*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 02:25:15 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03

wrote:

As far as the squeak, have you tried having someone turn the fan on and
then off as you listen to first the blower itself, then some of the
ductwork/vents to see if you can isolate the noise? It sounds to me like
the blower may need some lubrication, but that's hard to tell from where
I'm sitting.

The blower should be lubricated on all furnaces at least on a year.
It dont sound like you have done this. Just begin by lubricating the
blower and the blower motor. *Normally 3 to 6 drops of a light oil in
each bearing. *(Some modern motors do not have oil holes. *They are
supposed to be lubricated for life). *If the blower has a V-belt (fan
belt), that could squeak too.

Lube it, then watch the blower while someone shuts off the furnace.

Blowers in all the furnaces I've had anything to do with
have had permanently lubed bearings for many decades now.
In fact every residential type motor, fan, etc that I've seen
for a very long time doesn't require periodic lubrication.

Also the design of the high efficiency furnaces may not
even allow for access to the bearings for lubrication. Not
saying that IF the squeak is actually coming from the
bearing, THEN it would be appropriate to lube it. Just that
everyone shouldn't be worried that they need to regularly
lube bearings that have no provision for lubing.

On Jan 7, 10:56*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

-snip-



Wouldn't the fan belt squeak on startup, not shut down?

I'm thinking of the squeal that a loose automobile fan belt makes as a
car accelerates. It doesn't squeal once you reach a steady state speed
or when you take your foot off the gas because it's not going to slip
as it slows down.

Wouldn't the same thing occur in a furnace - slippage on startup but
no more torque (?) once the motor shuts down, therefore no squeal.

You might be right. * It has been a long time since I had that squeak.
Jim

The furnace is a high efficiency unit that is ten years old.
That says to me that there is no belt. Has anyone seen such
a furnace with a belt drive? Every one I've seen has been
direct drive.

On Jan 7, 3:23*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 7, 2:39*pm, Vic Smith wrote:





On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 10:55:56 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "

wrote:

I agree to not oiling until noise is located, but oiling once a year
is a very good practice to save bearings and $$$.

I never thought of oiling anything on my furnace. *That's just not in
any maintenance schedule for it. *In fact it has no maintenance
schedule. *Maybe change the filter when it gets dirty.
Mine is 15 years old with no powered vents, and the OP never said he
had them either, or I missed that.
Mine had a squeak about the time I had a HVAC guy in to replace the
motherboard, about 5 years ago. *Squeaked for some seconds near
starting and stopping. *Wasn't "horrible," *but wasn't good either.
Might have been a squeal instead of a squeak. *Definitely not a chirp..
The HVAC guy fixed it in about 10 seconds, with a wrench. *I forgot
what he said. *Think there's a squirrel cage adjustment.
I'm not going to even look at it because mine is probably completely
different that the OP's, and the OP didn't give enough info to work
with.
But I never had a furnace that required oiling any part of it.
He's more likely to screw something up by squirting oil than to help
anything unless he knows exactly what he's doing.

But I never had a furnace that required oiling any part of it.

Ahh...a possible case of "Just because you never had one doesn't mean
that they don't exist." *;-)

My previous furnace, a 1950's era Perfection, had a spring loaded cap
on each side of the blower motor.. The instructions suggested the use
of a few drops of oil in each hole once a year.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But have you seen a high efficiency 10 year old furnace
that requires oiling? Or that uses a belt drive? Not in my
world.

On Jan 10, 8:54*am, "
wrote:
On Jan 7, 3:23*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Jan 7, 2:39*pm, Vic Smith wrote:

On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 10:55:56 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "

wrote:

I agree to not oiling until noise is located, but oiling once a year
is a very good practice to save bearings and $$$.

I never thought of oiling anything on my furnace. *That's just not in
any maintenance schedule for it. *In fact it has no maintenance
schedule. *Maybe change the filter when it gets dirty.
Mine is 15 years old with no powered vents, and the OP never said he
had them either, or I missed that.
Mine had a squeak about the time I had a HVAC guy in to replace the
motherboard, about 5 years ago. *Squeaked for some seconds near
starting and stopping. *Wasn't "horrible," *but wasn't good either.

On Jan 10, 9:03*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 10, 8:54*am, "
wrote:





On Jan 7, 3:23*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Jan 7, 2:39*pm, Vic Smith wrote:

On Mon, 7 Jan 2013 10:55:56 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "

wrote:

I agree to not oiling until noise is located, but oiling once a year
is a very good practice to save bearings and $$$.

I never thought of oiling anything on my furnace. *That's just not in
any maintenance schedule for it. *In fact it has no maintenance
schedule. *Maybe change the filter when it gets dirty.
Mine is 15 years old with no powered vents, and the OP never said he
had them either, or I missed that.
Mine had a squeak about the time I had a HVAC guy in to replace the
motherboard, about 5 years ago. *Squeaked for some seconds near
starting and stopping. *Wasn't "horrible," *but wasn't good either.
Might have been a squeal instead of a squeak. *Definitely not a chirp.
The HVAC guy fixed it in about 10 seconds, with a wrench. *I forgot
what he said. *Think there's a squirrel cage adjustment.
I'm not going to even look at it because mine is probably completely
different that the OP's, and the OP didn't give enough info to work
with.
But I never had a furnace that required oiling any part of it.
He's more likely to screw something up by squirting oil than to help
anything unless he knows exactly what he's doing.

But I never had a furnace that required oiling any part of it.

Ahh...a possible case of "Just because you never had one doesn't mean
that they don't exist." *;-)

My previous furnace, a 1950's era Perfection, had a spring loaded cap
on each side of the blower motor.. The instructions suggested the use
of a few drops of oil in each hole once a year.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But have you seen a high efficiency 10 year old furnace
that requires oiling? * Or that uses a belt drive? *Not in my
world.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, I haven't and I never said I did.

I was merely responding to: "But I never had a furnace that required
oiling any part of it."

Nothing more, nothing less.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Then it's probably a good idea to point that out, so that the
OP who asked the question about his problem, doesn't
go looking for things we know don't exist.

Did we ever hear back from the OP?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

But have you seen a high efficiency 10 year old furnace
that requires oiling? Or that uses a belt drive? Not in my
world.

I have a similar problem. When the furnace shuts off, I've been getting a squeak. I took the access cover off, and don't get the squeak when the cover is off. When I put the cover back on, it squeaks.

I'm thinking I may not be getting adequate combustion air and there's a sudden change in air pressure in the furnace when the burners/fan turn off.

I tried putting some silicone spray lube on the rubber gaskets on the access panel, but that hasn't solved it.

I'm not sure how to go about checking the combustion air supply.

Thanks.

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 17:35:08 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I have a similar problem. When the furnace shuts off, I've been getting a squeak. I took the access cover off, and don't get the squeak when the cover is off. When I put the cover back on, it squeaks.

I'm thinking I may not be getting adequate combustion air and there's a sudden change in air pressure in the furnace when the burners/fan turn off.

I tried putting some silicone spray lube on the rubber gaskets on the access panel, but that hasn't solved it.

I'm not sure how to go about checking the combustion air supply.

Thanks.
Pull the eductor fan and look at there the squirrel cage is joined to
the hub. When mine did that I found a fine dusting of rust -
indicating the joint was loose and "fretting"
New fan was not in stock, was several hundred dollars, and no
guarantee the costr would be covered so I just brazed it and it hasn't
squeaked since - mine squeakes starting and shutting down.

On Tuesday, March 5, 2019 at 8:35:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I have a similar problem. When the furnace shuts off, I've been getting a squeak. I took the access cover off, and don't get the squeak when the cover is off. When I put the cover back on, it squeaks.

I'm thinking I may not be getting adequate combustion air and there's a sudden change in air pressure in the furnace when the burners/fan turn off.

I tried putting some silicone spray lube on the rubber gaskets on the access panel, but that hasn't solved it.

I'm not sure how to go about checking the combustion air supply.

Thanks.

First question is what do you mean by the "furnace shutting off"?
If it's when the burner stops, then it could be something to do with
the combustion air supply, which presumably is via fan. Or is it
when the air handler blower stops, in which case it's not combustion
related? If it's the latter, could be some duct work at the furnace
flexing as the air pressure stops.

It happens when the burner shuts off. Its like a pressure differential or something. The exhaust blower fan keeps going. I checked the combustion air inlet. Cant find anything.