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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On 6/4/2012 2:11 PM, frank1492 wrote:
Thank you all for your kind advice. Sorry to take so long in getting
back. I had filled the tank with fresh fuel and left this project
alone for several days.
Today I bought a spark tester (easier than attempting to ground
the plug while pulling the start cord.) Recall I had guessed a bad
spark earlier. The spark was perfect!
Without choking, I depressed the throttle and the engine started
immediately.
So it appears Hank and some others were right. The engine must
have been severely flooded.
Initially in desperation I must have choked the engine more than I
thought. I feel very stupid about this and am sorry if I may have
misled you. I simply could not understand with the use of starting
fluid why I couldn't even get a sputter.
The cautionary tale here is this: Always follow starting
instructions exactly and be patient.
Just a word or two in defense of Homelite. For about 20 years I
had a string trimmer that started and ran flawlessly, only giving
trouble very recently. It had years of stale gas (I'm more careful
now) and never complained. I liked it because it had no centrifugal
clutch and didn't require being run at light speed. Also simply
speeding the engine momentarily to full throttle advanced the line- no
need to bump or insert line stubs manually.
So I have no problems with Homelite. And it turns out this problem
wasn't theirs!
Once again thank you all. I intend to do penance by running the
trimmer against my bare leg for one-half hour.
Frank


in the future, i've found the best way to "unflood" a two stoke is to
take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
belongs in, and yank that rope!. You'll get a little fire and then
none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. No pun intended.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

Fahr in de hole!

I've seen other people flood an engine, and then try to start it by further
flooding it. Very common thought process.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
Without choking, I depressed the throttle and the engine started
immediately.
So it appears Hank and some others were right. The engine must
have been severely flooded.


Once again thank you all. I intend to do penance by running the
trimmer against my bare leg for one-half hour.
Frank


in the future, i've found the best way to "unflood" a two stoke is to
take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
belongs in, and yank that rope!. You'll get a little fire and then
none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. No pun intended.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Jun 4, 8:12*am, "
wrote:
On Jun 3, 10:53*am, Hank wrote:





On Jun 3, 8:21*am, "
wrote:


On Jun 2, 10:28*pm, Hank wrote:


On Jun 2, 1:01*pm, "
wrote:


On Jun 2, 12:50*pm, Greg wrote:


On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:


The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).


A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.


As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).


I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!


You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.


FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
great.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
that would not start. *I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. *And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.


While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. *When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. *Even pumping many
times makes no difference.


So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? *And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? * Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. *Any
other thoughts?


Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.


If it were the bulb, there would be air in the sending line as well
as the return line. *Also, I've never seen a bulb with an air leak
where fuel was not leaking out when it's pressed.


I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.


Hank- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


It might be a leak right where the return line joins the carb. *But
that's
where it would have to be because the bubbles are showing up right
where it leaves the carb. *Again, no bubbles going in the carb, only
bubbles coming out.


Obviously your experiences are different than mine. If I were to
repair his trimmer, the first thing I would do, with the symptoms he
gave, is to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb and spark plug.


I was not telling him what to do. *I was asking about what to do
with MY problem, which is different.

This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out
the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying
to find out which one it is.


I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for
30+ years in a shop.


Hank- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Then I would think that you would agree that air bubbles in the return
line
from the carb, with no air bubbles in the supply line
from the tank and priming bulb can't be due to a leaking bulb, or a
leak in the fuel line from the tank to the bulb, right? *If there is a
leak,
it would seem to me that it would have to be right where the supply
fuel line connects to the carb or else in the carb itself. *And if
it's
leaking at the connection to the carb, wouldn't there typically be
some fuel leaking visibly when the priming bulb is pushed? *It's
forcing fuel into the carb, so if there was a leak, wouldn't some
fuel come out under pressure?

One basic question is should there ever be air bubbles in the fuel
return
line after priming it say 10 times?


Not all trimmers have a fuel return line.

Oneof these days you may come across a primer bulb that has a crack in
it and then you'll know what i am talking about. They usually crack on
the tip of the bulb, therefore, when you put your finger on it to
push, you are basically sealing the crack. When you let off, it will
suck air in, not gas. Usualy they don't leak either.

There shouldn't be any air in the lines. The fuel filter helps keep
the line deep in the tank. If it comes off, you may suck air.

Hank
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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Jun 4, 9:01*pm, Steve Barker wrote:


in the future, i've found the best way to "unflood" a two stoke is to
take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
belongs in, and yank that rope!. *You'll get a little fire and then
none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. *No pun intended.

--
Steve Barker


That is dangerous and really unneeded. A person has to get the gas out
of the crankcase too, not just the cylinder. To get the gas out of the
crankcase, you must pull the starter multiple times. Even then it must
sit and evaporate to get it into the "flammable range" ( air to fuel
ratio). Your way is even more difficult if the carb is still operating
and flowing more gas into the crankcase with every pull.

Hank
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On 6/5/2012 4:41 AM, Hank wrote:
On Jun 4, 9:01 pm, Steve wrote:


in the future, i've found the best way to "unflood" a two stoke is to
take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
belongs in, and yank that rope!. You'll get a little fire and then
none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. No pun intended.

--
Steve Barker


That is dangerous and really unneeded. A person has to get the gas out
of the crankcase too, not just the cylinder. To get the gas out of the
crankcase, you must pull the starter multiple times. Even then it must
sit and evaporate to get it into the "flammable range" ( air to fuel
ratio). Your way is even more difficult if the carb is still operating
and flowing more gas into the crankcase with every pull.

Hank


believe me, it works and is not dangerous. I've done it thousands of
times in the course of my job. (I worked at a lawn and landscape place
with hundreds of pieces of two stroke equip) And the fuel mix is passed
from the crankcase during rope pulling just as it would be during normal
operation. And the fuel mix being pulled through is minimal and of the
proper proportion if the choke is open.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


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On Jun 5, 11:33*am, Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/5/2012 4:41 AM, Hank wrote:





On Jun 4, 9:01 pm, Steve *wrote:


in the future, i've found the best way to "unflood" a two stoke is to
take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
belongs in, and yank that rope!. *You'll get a little fire and then
none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. *No pun intended.


--
Steve Barker


That is dangerous and really unneeded. A person has to get the gas out
of the crankcase too, not just the cylinder. To get the gas out of the
crankcase, you must pull the starter multiple times. Even then it must
sit and evaporate to get it into the "flammable range" ( air to fuel
ratio). Your way is even more difficult if the carb is still operating
and flowing more gas into the crankcase with every pull.


Hank


believe me, it works and is not dangerous. *I've done it thousands of
times in the course of my job. *(I worked at a lawn and landscape place
with hundreds of pieces of two stroke equip) And the fuel mix is passed
from the crankcase during rope pulling just as it would be during normal
operation. *And the fuel mix being pulled through is minimal and of the
proper proportion if the choke is open.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Let me get this straight..............

It spits out an unknown amount of gasoline that is on fire and it
isn't dangerous? You've done it a thousand times?

Hank ~~~~~~ ain't buyin what Steve is selling
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I've done the "spark plug out, yank the cord" on four strokes. Can't say as
I've tried it on two stroke. But, thanks for the field report.

The one time I tried to help out, a 10 or 11 year old boy who had a two
stroke scooter. He would push the primer 10 to 20 times, and wonder why it
didn't start. I told him one or two times was enough. I got a wrench, pulled
the spark plug, and pulled the cord to dry out the cylinder a bit. Put the
spark plug back in. Before I could do much anything else, he was pushing the
primer button 1.04 ^9 times, and flooded the thing again.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

believe me, it works and is not dangerous. I've done it thousands of
times in the course of my job. (I worked at a lawn and landscape place
with hundreds of pieces of two stroke equip) And the fuel mix is passed
from the crankcase during rope pulling just as it would be during normal
operation. And the fuel mix being pulled through is minimal and of the
proper proportion if the choke is open.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

It's a formerly some what free country.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Hank" wrote in message
...

Let me get this straight..............

It spits out an unknown amount of gasoline that is on fire and it
isn't dangerous? You've done it a thousand times?

Hank ~~~~~~ ain't buyin what Steve is selling


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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?


On Tue, 5 Jun 2012 15:12:32 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've done the "spark plug out, yank the cord" on four strokes. Can't say as
I've tried it on two stroke. But, thanks for the field report.

The one time I tried to help out, a 10 or 11 year old boy who had a two
stroke scooter. He would push the primer 10 to 20 times, and wonder why it
didn't start. I told him one or two times was enough. I got a wrench, pulled
the spark plug, and pulled the cord to dry out the cylinder a bit. Put the
spark plug back in. Before I could do much anything else, he was pushing the
primer button 1.04 ^9 times, and flooded the thing again.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

believe me, it works and is not dangerous. I've done it thousands of
times in the course of my job. (I worked at a lawn and landscape place
with hundreds of pieces of two stroke equip) And the fuel mix is passed
from the crankcase during rope pulling just as it would be during normal
operation. And the fuel mix being pulled through is minimal and of the
proper proportion if the choke is open.


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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

I always figure I can prime more later, but it's hard to unprime. So, I
start with the smaller number of bulb pushes. I know of no formula. Would be
too easy, if there were.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"frank1492" wrote in message
...
I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?





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On Jun 5, 4:47*pm, frank1492 wrote:
I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?


Air cooled engines cool off pretty quickly. Start it as you normally
would. If you think it may be flooded, hold the throttle wide open,
open choke, and pull a 5-6 times. If it was just flooded a little, it
should fire up. It will smoke a little but keep the throttle wide open
until it quits smoking and runs at the high RPM.

Hank

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On Jun 5, 3:13*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
It's a formerly some what free country.

Christopher A. Young


Yes it is, but he wouldn't be working in my shop very long.

Hank ~~~~~ thinks safety first

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On 6/5/2012 11:53 AM, Hank wrote:
On Jun 5, 11:33 am, Steve wrote:
On 6/5/2012 4:41 AM, Hank wrote:





On Jun 4, 9:01 pm, Steve wrote:


in the future, i've found the best way to "unflood" a two stoke is to
take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
belongs in, and yank that rope!. You'll get a little fire and then
none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. No pun intended.


--
Steve Barker


That is dangerous and really unneeded. A person has to get the gas out
of the crankcase too, not just the cylinder. To get the gas out of the
crankcase, you must pull the starter multiple times. Even then it must
sit and evaporate to get it into the "flammable range" ( air to fuel
ratio). Your way is even more difficult if the carb is still operating
and flowing more gas into the crankcase with every pull.


Hank


believe me, it works and is not dangerous. I've done it thousands of
times in the course of my job. (I worked at a lawn and landscape place
with hundreds of pieces of two stroke equip) And the fuel mix is passed
from the crankcase during rope pulling just as it would be during normal
operation. And the fuel mix being pulled through is minimal and of the
proper proportion if the choke is open.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Let me get this straight..............

It spits out an unknown amount of gasoline that is on fire and it
isn't dangerous? You've done it a thousand times?

Hank~~~~~~ ain't buyin what Steve is selling


Well, maybe not THOUSANDS... I worked at the place 12 years and
probably did it an average of once a day. And there can't be TOO much
gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
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On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 17:29:23 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:




Well, maybe not THOUSANDS... I worked at the place 12 years and
probably did it an average of once a day. And there can't be TOO much
gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.


But what about the children? If you did it near a school, they could
be injured. You're endangering and entire community with explosive
vapors ! ! ! and causing cancer in California
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On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 16:47:11 -0400, frank1492
wrote:

I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?


My rule of thumb is what works. My chains saw, four times, lawnmower,
five, snowblower ten. According tot he instructions with each, the
number varies from what actually works for me.


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On 6/5/2012 9:08 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 17:29:23 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:




Well, maybe not THOUSANDS... I worked at the place 12 years and
probably did it an average of once a day. And there can't be TOO much
gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.


But what about the children? If you did it near a school, they could
be injured. You're endangering and entire community with explosive
vapors ! ! ! and causing cancer in California



waaa waaaa

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
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On Jun 5, 6:29*pm, Steve Barker wrote:


Well, maybe not THOUSANDS... *I worked at the place 12 years and
probably did it an average of once a day. *And there can't be TOO much
gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


You aren't too good at math are you?

52 weeks in a year. 2 weeks off for vacation = 50 weeks of working

If you worked the typical 5 day week, that equates to 250 day per
year.

Doing it "on average of once a day" for 250 days per year for 12 years
is 3000 times.

Hank ~~~~ still ain't buyin Steves story
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On 06/05/2012 01:47 PM, frank1492 wrote:
I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times."


The instruction manual that came with mine states to push the primer
bulb until gas appears in the bulb. The manual that came with a
previous version did state the same as you stated.

I'm guessing they were getting too many calls about flooded engines.

Jon
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On Jun 5, 5:30*am, Hank wrote:
On Jun 4, 8:12*am, "
wrote:





On Jun 3, 10:53*am, Hank wrote:


On Jun 3, 8:21*am, "
wrote:


On Jun 2, 10:28*pm, Hank wrote:


On Jun 2, 1:01*pm, "
wrote:


On Jun 2, 12:50*pm, Greg wrote:


On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:


The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).


A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.


As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).


I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!


You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.


FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
great.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
that would not start. *I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. *And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.


While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. *When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. *Even pumping many
times makes no difference.


So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? *And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? * Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. *Any
other thoughts?


Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.


If it were the bulb, there would be air in the sending line as well
as the return line. *Also, I've never seen a bulb with an air leak
where fuel was not leaking out when it's pressed.


I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.


Hank- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


It might be a leak right where the return line joins the carb. *But
that's
where it would have to be because the bubbles are showing up right
where it leaves the carb. *Again, no bubbles going in the carb, only
bubbles coming out.


Obviously your experiences are different than mine. If I were to
repair his trimmer, the first thing I would do, with the symptoms he
gave, is to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb and spark plug.


I was not telling him what to do. *I was asking about what to do
with MY problem, which is different.


This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out
the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying
to find out which one it is.


I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for
30+ years in a shop.


Hank- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Then I would think that you would agree that air bubbles in the return
line
from the carb, with no air bubbles in the supply line
from the tank and priming bulb can't be due to a leaking bulb, or a
leak in the fuel line from the tank to the bulb, right? *If there is a
leak,
it would seem to me that it would have to be right where the supply
fuel line connects to the carb or else in the carb itself. *And if
it's
leaking at the connection to the carb, wouldn't there typically be
some fuel leaking visibly when the priming bulb is pushed? *It's
forcing fuel into the carb, so if there was a leak, wouldn't some
fuel come out under pressure?


One basic question is should there ever be air bubbles in the fuel
return
line after priming it say 10 times?


Not all trimmers have a fuel return line.

Oneof these days you may come across a primer bulb that has a crack in
it and then you'll know what i am talking about. They usually crack on
the tip of the bulb, therefore, when you put your finger on it to
push, you are basically sealing the crack. When you let off, it will
suck air in, not gas. Usualy they don't leak either.

There shouldn't be any air in the lines.


Thanks for confirming that. That's what I thought, but
wasn't sure. There is definitely no air from the suction
line to the bulb or from the bulb to the carb.
Only in the return line. So,
I would think either it's a leak right where the fuel hose
joins the carb or more likely inside the carb. If it
were leaking at the carb connection, I should see
some fuel leak when I push the prime bulb, no?



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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

replying to Ed Pawlowski, tickedoff wrote:
seriously , they only last a few hours. are you talking about an electric
one. mine is hardly ever used also and it just stopped just like that.

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Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On 2016-07-17, tickedoff wrote:

replying to Ed Pawlowski, tickedoff wrote:
seriously , they only last a few hours. are you talking about an electric
one. mine is hardly ever used also and it just stopped just like that.


I jes went thru this particular nightmare. Our HOA has six gas
trimmers. All dead except a Stihl, which still runs, but the line
feed is broken and so line must be pulled out by hand.

I got my hands on a Poulan. I bought a new spark plug and it still
wouldn't start. Tried new gas (non-ethanol) and oil. Nada. Finally
resorted to a squirt of ether. Damn thing finally fired and ran.

These engines (31cc) are so narrowly tuned, they shouldn't be messed
with. Jes taking the cover off the filter leand the engine out of
running range, so hadda shoot a shot of ether, replace the filter
cover, and hope I did it fast enough to the start engine. At least
the bump line feed on the Poulan actually worked, despite having to
really "bump" it on a rock or hard ground.

Having gone through enough of these junky gas trimmers, I think I'd
prefer an old fashion Grass Whip.

nb
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