I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?

As a fairly new heating guy, I'd say no. I've never heard of anyone doing
coils or solenoids on a furnace gas valve. I have (once) done solenoid coils
on a gas dryer valve.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?

On Dec 28, 1:45*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
As a fairly new heating guy, I'd say no. I've never heard of anyone doing
coils or solenoids on a furnace gas valve. I have (once) done solenoid coils
on a gas dryer valve.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Mikepier" wrote in message

...
I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/180658768877?_lwgsi=yyp=AllFixedPrice....

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?

solenoid valves like just about everthing else go bad. althought it
may test OK contunity wise it may still not work.

On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 08:22:48 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?
Where will you find the replacement solenoids if you can get to the
old ones? What will they cost you??
I'd just buy the valve and be done with it, myself - and I'm a "cheap
bugger"

On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 16:09:48 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 08:22:48 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?
Where will you find the replacement solenoids if you can get to the
old ones? What will they cost you??
I'd just buy the valve and be done with it, myself - and I'm a "cheap
bugger"

Same here. The valve itself may be sticking.
With gas you don't want to take chances "modifying" anything.

--Vic

Mikepier wrote:
I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?

Similar thing happened to me.

Remove the whole gizmo from the gas line and take it to Grainger's. Say
"gimme one like this". For somewhere in the neighborhood of $60, you'll be
good to go.

Or, you can try disassembling the thing and see if you can deduce why the
solenoid won't latch. It may be something as simple as a dose of WD-40, oil,
or rust removal and cleaning.

On Dec 28, 4:09*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 08:22:48 -0800 (PST), Mikepier

wrote:
I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/180658768877?_lwgsi=yyp=AllFixedPrice....

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?

*Where will you find the replacement solenoids if you can get to the
old ones? *What will they cost you??
I'd just buy the valve and be done with it, myself - and I'm a "cheap
bugger"

I too have been known to look for the most inexpensive way to fix
something, however...

When my water pressure reducer valve stop reducing, the guy at the
plumbing supply house said "I can sell you this rebuild kit for $35 or
I can sell you this rebuilt PRV with a 1 year warranty for $65. Your
choice, but I know which one I'd buy."

On 12/28/2011 10:22 AM, Mikepier wrote:
I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?


I have repaired bad solder joints on the little circuit boards on gas
valves but the solenoids I've seen in the defective valves could
possibly be replaced if new ones were available but because of liability
concerns, I doubt that any repair company would want to do it. You may
find a simple bad connection but if there is scoring or any mechanical
damage to the valve, you'd be much safer replacing the valve.

TDD

On Dec 28, 4:40*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 16:09:48 -0500, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 08:22:48 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/180658768877?_lwgsi=yyp=AllFixedPrice....

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?
Where will you find the replacement solenoids if you can get to the
old ones? *What will they cost you??
I'd just buy the valve and be done with it, myself - and I'm a "cheap
bugger"

Same here. *The valve itself may be sticking.
With gas you don't want to take chances "modifying" anything.

--Vic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm with you on this one. Especially considering they don't
cost much and given the possible implications if you don't
get it right.

On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 20:28:20 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

He does open the interesting question, why they sell replacement solenoid
coils for gas dryer valves, but not for furnace valves?

The OP has a Trane, which opens interesting questions. I've found that often
Trane parts don't interchange with other brands, so that may be a concern.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

I have repaired bad solder joints on the little circuit boards on gas
valves but the solenoids I've seen in the defective valves could
possibly be replaced if new ones were available but because of liability
concerns, I doubt that any repair company would want to do it. You may
find a simple bad connection but if there is scoring or any mechanical
damage to the valve, you'd be much safer replacing the valve.

TDD

But Trane doesn't make the gas valve anyway. And it's not proprietary
in any way, from what I know.

Lets hope you're right. I don't trust Trane to make easily serviced
products.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
news
But Trane doesn't make the gas valve anyway. And it's not proprietary
in any way, from what I know.

On Dec 28, 11:22*am, Mikepier wrote:
I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/180658768877?_lwgsi=yyp=AllFixedPrice....

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?

Just something to think about.. I repaired a solenoid controlled valve
at work a while back and noticed the terminals were crimped on to the
wire the coil was wound with. Soldered them on and never had anymore
trouble. This valve controlled compressed air at about 10 PSI. Over
the past 20 years we had replace quite a few of these valves and I'm
betting the crimp was the problem on most if not all of them.This
valve was only energized about twice a year so Im figuring getting
about 8 or 10 cycles out of it is pretty lousy reliability if it is
failing from use. More likely it was failing from age. My humidifier
solenoid valve also had crimp on connections to the coil so when it
went bad I soldered the connections on the new coil. That's been maybe
15 years ago and the coil still works but I have had to replace the
valve part due to corrosion.

Jimmie

Thanks for everyones input.

The valve is actually a White Rodgers, and ironically the only place
in my area that has one in stock is the Trane parts warehouse about
1/2 hour where I live, and pretty reasonable at $65. So I might just
get it , along with an igniter as a backup, just to give me piece of
mind if the valve decides to crap out altogether. With the holiday
weekend coming, and cold temps on the way, the last thing I need to do
is scramble around finding parts.

Just wanted to update, I went to the Trane warehouse yesterday and got
my new valve, along with an adaptor kit, which is just an extension
nipple because the new valve is shorter than old one, so this nipple
makes up the difference so i can use the existing gas piping.
Also picked up a new ignitor as a backup.
Total out the door was $127

So I'll be replacing it when I get home today. Good thing because this
morning the valve acted up again and was sticking, but I got it
working for now.

If a person has the skills to do this safely, it can sure be a good
experience. And a money saver. I wish you all the best. I exepct that you'll
do fine. Just remembe to degauss the coil if you install the valve upside
down. I know, I'll catch hell from the pros for giving away the secrets.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to update, I went to the Trane warehouse yesterday and got
my new valve, along with an adaptor kit, which is just an extension
nipple because the new valve is shorter than old one, so this nipple
makes up the difference so i can use the existing gas piping.
Also picked up a new ignitor as a backup.
Total out the door was $127

So I'll be replacing it when I get home today. Good thing because this
morning the valve acted up again and was sticking, but I got it
working for now.

On Dec 30, 9:41*am, Mikepier wrote:
Just wanted to update, I went to the Trane warehouse yesterday and got
my new valve, along with an adaptor kit, which is just an extension
nipple because the new valve is shorter than old one, so this nipple
makes up the difference so i can use the existing gas piping.
Also picked up a new ignitor as a backup.
*Total out the door was $127

So I'll be replacing it when I get home today. Good thing because this
morning the valve acted up again and was sticking, but I got it
working for now.

When the gas valve on my old Perfection furnace went bad, I had to get
a sealed unit like you one you bought.

That was good from a purely safety perspective but it a took away an
advantage that the old one had.

In the owner's manual for the furnace were the instructions on how to
open the valve manually in the event of a power failure. You could
lift a tab on the valve and lock it in the open position to turn on
the gas. Because there was no blower, the suggested duty cycle was
something like 10 mins on/30 minutes off.

However, since it was totally up to the user to control the duty
cycle, it wasn't the safest convenience ever invented. I actually used
it once during a power outage, but was never very comfortable with the
practice. I shortened the On time just be safe.

I replaced the valve mid-winter. The following year we had an ice
storm that took the power out for 4 days. How I longed for that
"dangerous convenience" during those 4 days.

Yow, that's astounding. I wrote such a lever into my short novel "Custodian
Plus" about a building super who uses such a lever to run the boiler in a 11
story tower. I had no idea such a thing existed. Thanks, I learn something
every day.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

In the owner's manual for the furnace were the instructions on how to
open the valve manually in the event of a power failure. You could
lift a tab on the valve and lock it in the open position to turn on
the gas. Because there was no blower, the suggested duty cycle was
something like 10 mins on/30 minutes off.

However, since it was totally up to the user to control the duty
cycle, it wasn't the safest convenience ever invented. I actually used
it once during a power outage, but was never very comfortable with the
practice. I shortened the On time just be safe.

I replaced the valve mid-winter. The following year we had an ice
storm that took the power out for 4 days. How I longed for that
"dangerous convenience" during those 4 days.

replying to clare, Vince wrote:
For my gas fieplace it's 500$ + so finding a cheaper alternative would be
nice.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ed-676852-.htm

On Tue, 10 Oct 2017 00:44:01 GMT, Vince
m wrote:

replying to clare, Vince wrote:
For my gas fieplace it's 500$ + so finding a cheaper alternative would be
nice.
You DO realize that was SIX YEARS AGO??????????
Nothing has changed. Suck it up buttercup!

On Wednesday, December 28, 2011 at 2:09:48 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Dec 2011 08:22:48 -0800 (PST), Mikepier
wrote:

I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?
Where will you find the replacement solenoids if you can get to the
old ones? What will they cost you??
I'd just buy the valve and be done with it, myself - and I'm a "cheap
bugger"

Empire carries every single part down the threads if you like. As long as you get the right piece, its like rebuilding a carburetor. Some people just don't want to do it, but they're selling these parts to someone.

On 12/18/2017 1:26 AM, wrote:


Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?
Where will you find the replacement solenoids if you can get to the
old ones? What will they cost you??
I'd just buy the valve and be done with it, myself - and I'm a "cheap
bugger"

Empire carries every single part down the threads if you like. As long as you get the right piece, its like rebuilding a carburetor. Some people just don't want to do it, but they're selling these parts to someone.


Choose the wrong part and it won't work and is a potential for danger.
Gave valves and operators are not a good place to practice repairs if
you don't know what you are doing.

On Monday, December 18, 2017 at 9:29:18 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/18/2017 1:26 AM, wrote:


Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?
Where will you find the replacement solenoids if you can get to the
old ones? What will they cost you??
I'd just buy the valve and be done with it, myself - and I'm a "cheap
bugger"

Empire carries every single part down the threads if you like. As long as you get the right piece, its like rebuilding a carburetor. Some people just don't want to do it, but they're selling these parts to someone.


Choose the wrong part and it won't work and is a potential for danger.
Gave valves and operators are not a good place to practice repairs if
you don't know what you are doing.

Me, I'm still wondering how Empire, whoever they are, sells threads for a
gas valve. Or anything for that matter. I haven't looked at a gas valve
in awhile, but seems to me the threads are female and part of the valve
body.

replying to trader4, GG wrote:
Empire quoted me $395.00 for gas valve replacement for stand alone heater.
Yeeeeeeeow! Id rather tried replacing just the solenoid if i can find one, or
a used gas valve.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ed-676852-.htm

On 12/23/2017 6:44 AM, GG wrote:
replying to trader4, GG wrote:
Empire quoted me $395.00 for gas valve replacement for stand alone
heater. Yeeeeeeeow!Â* Id rather tried replacing just the solenoid if i
can find one, or a used gas valve.

Try eBay...I retrofitted an old "wild pilot" heater in the pump house
with new safety-valve/pilot a few years ago with NOS (new, old stock)
parts for about $20...

--

On Saturday, December 23, 2017 at 9:45:45 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 12/23/2017 6:44 AM, GG wrote:
replying to trader4, GG wrote:
Empire quoted me $395.00 for gas valve replacement for stand alone
heater. Yeeeeeeeow!Â* Id rather tried replacing just the solenoid if i
can find one, or a used gas valve.

Try eBay...I retrofitted an old "wild pilot" heater in the pump house
with new safety-valve/pilot a few years ago with NOS (new, old stock)
parts for about $20...

--

Also many times you can cross-reference the part number to an equivalent
that's available from multiple sources instead of the "Carrier" or
whatever part. That works for many motors for example.

On 12/23/2017 9:04 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, December 23, 2017 at 9:45:45 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 12/23/2017 6:44 AM, GG wrote:
....

can find one, or a used gas valve.

Try eBay...I retrofitted an old "wild pilot" heater in the pump house
with new safety-valve/pilot a few years ago with NOS (new, old stock)
parts for about $20...

Also many times you can cross-reference the part number to an equivalent
that's available from multiple sources instead of the "Carrier" or
whatever part. That works for many motors for example.

Indeed. The valve I used was just off-the-shelf White valve; nothing to
do with the specific heater whatsoever.

Dimensions are pretty-much stock so shouldn't make much difference whos
OP actually uses.

--

replying to trader_4, Drewk wrote:
Probably means the thread adapters to go from 3/4 to 1/2 inch pipe

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ed-676852-.htm

On Wednesday, December 28, 2011 at 2:43:13 PM UTC-7, HeyBub wrote:
Mikepier wrote:
I have a Trane XR80 gas furnace that started to act up recently. I
narrowed down to the gas valve. It was getting 24V, but not opening. I
lightly tapped it with a hammer, and it started working again.

Are these valves similiar to gas dryer valves? I had a problem with my
dryer one time, and just replaced the solenoids, and was fixed. Can I
do the same with a furnace gas valve? This is the gas valve on my
furnace now:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1806587...pes& var=sbar

There is a plastic cover on it which can be removed. If I remove it,
will I find the solenoids?

Similar thing happened to me.

Remove the whole gizmo from the gas line and take it to Grainger's. Say
"gimme one like this". For somewhere in the neighborhood of $60, you'll be
good to go.

Or, you can try disassembling the thing and see if you can deduce why the
solenoid won't latch. It may be something as simple as a dose of WD-40, oil,
or rust removal and cleaning.

Wow where did ya cum up with thatn fer 60? just kicked out tha ol honeywell 77 model n it ran 329 tanxs for tha info