My multimeter arrived today. I cannot get to the wiring underneath the
dollhouse because there is paint and glue drying. ;-)

I tried to get a voltage reading at the light sockets inside the doll
house. I could not get a consistent reading. The space is very cramped
and the sockets very small (3/8"). I seemed to get a better reading on
DC than AC. The DC readings jumped all over the place, but it looked
like between 0.9 and 1.1 v. The AC readings jumped around even more. The
most consistent reading was 6v at one socket.

Is there a way using this meter to tell if the current is AC or DC?

Next, I did a continuity test of the bulbs themselves. Of the 12 bulbs I
removed from the house, only one passed the continuity test.

I then tried a resistance test on the bulbs. The one that passed the
continuity test showed 11 ohms of resistence. The rest showed infinite
resistance.

I then took the good bulb and tried it in several sockets. After
fiddling with the button switches, I was able to get it to light in
several sockets. It was very dim.

When everything dries, I will try to get under the house and see if I
can get better readings.

Any comments or suggestions?

On Tue, 20 Dec 2011 12:42:00 -0800, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

My multimeter arrived today. I cannot get to the wiring underneath the
dollhouse because there is paint and glue drying. ;-)

I tried to get a voltage reading at the light sockets inside the doll
house. I could not get a consistent reading. The space is very cramped
and the sockets very small (3/8").

I very often use a jumper wrie with alligator clips on each end,
especailly for connecting the black test lead of the meter to a
grouond, or anywhere I want it connected. That leaves both hands free
to use the other test lead. I buy ten 12" wires for 3 or 4 dollars at
Radio Shack, and I clip one end to the metal proble of the test lead.

For small things, I put a hat pin, or corsage pin, or straight pin, or
headless nail thinner than the original probe in the alligator clip at
the other end. So I can test i cramped areas.



I seemed to get a better reading on
DC than AC. The DC readings jumped all over the place, but it looked
like between 0.9 and 1.1 v. The AC readings jumped around even more. The
most consistent reading was 6v at one socket.

Is there a way using this meter to tell if the current is AC or DC?

For a doll house, if it's plugged into the wall, it's AC.
If it runs on batteryies it's DC.

IIRC, you can measuere DC current with an AC meter. The reading will
be wrong, but consistent and proportional to the actual value. The RMS
iirc. This is with an analog meter. Not sure how digital meters
behave.

On the other hand try to meaure AC with a DC meter and the average
value will be zero. Because the *average* voltage of AC *is* zero.
On an analog meter that's what it will show. Not sure if it would
jump around with a digital meter, or not.

Next, I did a continuity test of the bulbs themselves. Of the 12 bulbs I
removed from the house, only one passed the continuity test.

I then tried a resistance test on the bulbs. The one that passed the
continuity test showed 11 ohms of resistence. The rest showed infinite
resistance.

I then took the good bulb and tried it in several sockets. After
fiddling with the button switches, I was able to get it to light in
several sockets. It was very dim.

Dolls have excellent vision, and don't need much light to read.
Don't forget, that if they are only 3 inches tall and you are more
than 60 inches tall. the light seems 20 times brighter for them.

When everything dries, I will try to get under the house and see if I
can get better readings.

Any comments or suggestions?

On Dec 20, 3:42*pm, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
My multimeter arrived today. I cannot get to the wiring underneath the
dollhouse because there is paint and glue drying. ;-)

I tried to get a voltage reading at the light sockets inside the doll
house. I could not get a consistent reading. The space is very cramped
and the sockets very small (3/8"). I seemed to get a better reading on
DC than AC. The DC readings jumped all over the place, but it looked
like between 0.9 and 1.1 v. The AC readings jumped around even more. The
most consistent reading was 6v at one socket.

Is there a way using this meter to tell if the current is AC or DC?

Next, I did a continuity test of the bulbs themselves. Of the 12 bulbs I
removed from the house, only one passed the continuity test.

I then tried a resistance test on the bulbs. The one that passed the
continuity test showed 11 ohms of resistence. The rest showed infinite
resistance.

I then took the good bulb and tried it in several sockets. After
fiddling with the button switches, I was able to get it to light in
several sockets. It was very dim.

When everything dries, I will try to get under the house and see if I
can get better readings.

Any comments or suggestions?

Start by finding out the voltage requirements of the bulbs, then see
if your power supply is working properly putting out the right voltage
for the bulbs. Replace all the bulbs while you at it, sounds like more
are bad than good. This will make further troubleshooting easier and
may solve all your problems to start with.

Jimmie

On Dec 21, 6:16*am, JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 20, 3:42*pm, Jennifer Murphy wrote:









My multimeter arrived today. I cannot get to the wiring underneath the
dollhouse because there is paint and glue drying. ;-)

I tried to get a voltage reading at the light sockets inside the doll
house. I could not get a consistent reading. The space is very cramped
and the sockets very small (3/8"). I seemed to get a better reading on
DC than AC. The DC readings jumped all over the place, but it looked
like between 0.9 and 1.1 v. The AC readings jumped around even more. The
most consistent reading was 6v at one socket.

Is there a way using this meter to tell if the current is AC or DC?

Next, I did a continuity test of the bulbs themselves. Of the 12 bulbs I
removed from the house, only one passed the continuity test.

I then tried a resistance test on the bulbs. The one that passed the
continuity test showed 11 ohms of resistence. The rest showed infinite
resistance.

I then took the good bulb and tried it in several sockets. After
fiddling with the button switches, I was able to get it to light in
several sockets. It was very dim.

When everything dries, I will try to get under the house and see if I
can get better readings.

Any comments or suggestions?

Start by finding out the voltage requirements of the bulbs, then see
if your power supply is working properly putting out the right voltage
for the bulbs. Replace all the bulbs while you at it, sounds like more
are bad than good. This will make further troubleshooting easier and
may solve all your problems to start with.

Jimmie

Continuing on, I bought an old doll house several years ago and it had
problems with lighting too. After replacing the bulbs I found that
several of the switches were bad. The one house is the limit of my
experience and my local hobby store owner was the source of all my
info. Oh yeah a little contact cleaner in the light sockets helps
too. I use DeOXit. I recommend using this on all the bulbs and
switches.

Jimmie

Jennifer,

Get a lightbulb that fits into the socket. Wrap it in cloth and whack it
gently with a hammer. You want to break the glass. Once you've done that cut
the filament. Now you can measure the voltage on each filament wire.

Dave M.

I've had those size bulbs in my hands, years ago. Your suggestion is
sincere, but I really doubt that it's practical. The inside wires are too
small, too close together. And the bulb inside the doll house is going to be
in an odd direction.

That ranks up there like breaking a popsickle stick or tongue depressor with
enough wood left connecting the two halves. We did that (unsucsessfully) for
a cub scout project.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Dave M." wrote in message
...
Jennifer,

Get a lightbulb that fits into the socket. Wrap it in cloth and whack it
gently with a hammer. You want to break the glass. Once you've done that cut
the filament. Now you can measure the voltage on each filament wire.

Dave M.

This is an old radio pilot light bulb

#50 is a 6 volt... May have been run from a battery or a transformer
Look here for a chart

http://oldradios.co.nz/data/index7.htm



"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I've had those size bulbs in my hands, years ago. Your suggestion is
sincere, but I really doubt that it's practical. The inside wires are too
small, too close together. And the bulb inside the doll house is going to
be
in an odd direction.

That ranks up there like breaking a popsickle stick or tongue depressor
with
enough wood left connecting the two halves. We did that (unsucsessfully)
for
a cub scout project.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Dave M." wrote in message
...
Jennifer,

Get a lightbulb that fits into the socket. Wrap it in cloth and whack it
gently with a hammer. You want to break the glass. Once you've done that
cut
the filament. Now you can measure the voltage on each filament wire.

Dave M.

On Dec 20, 2:42*pm, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
My multimeter arrived today. I cannot get to the wiring underneath the
dollhouse because there is paint and glue drying. ;-)

I tried to get a voltage reading at the light sockets inside the doll
house. I could not get a consistent reading. The space is very cramped
and the sockets very small (3/8"). I seemed to get a better reading on
DC than AC. The DC readings jumped all over the place, but it looked
like between 0.9 and 1.1 v. The AC readings jumped around even more. The
most consistent reading was 6v at one socket.

Is there a way using this meter to tell if the current is AC or DC?

Next, I did a continuity test of the bulbs themselves. Of the 12 bulbs I
removed from the house, only one passed the continuity test.

I then tried a resistance test on the bulbs. The one that passed the
continuity test showed 11 ohms of resistence. The rest showed infinite
resistance.

I then took the good bulb and tried it in several sockets. After
fiddling with the button switches, I was able to get it to light in
several sockets. It was very dim.

When everything dries, I will try to get under the house and see if I
can get better readings.

Any comments or suggestions?

For many years in automotive I used adapters made from burnt out bulbs
with test leads soldered to center post(s) and shell. Compact and easy
to insert and dead accurate. Saved time and made finding dead sockets
a snap.

Joe

I want to thank everyone who offered helpful suggestions and advice. I
got started too late to get the dollhouse lights working so I just
finished fixing up the house itself. It was a big hit on Christmas
morning. When I get some time, I'll finish the lights. My plan is to
replace the transformer with a battery pack and use LED lights. I'll
probably have to replace the four toggle switches.

"Jennifer Murphy" wrote in message
...
I want to thank everyone who offered helpful suggestions and advice. I
got started too late to get the dollhouse lights working so I just
finished fixing up the house itself. It was a big hit on Christmas
morning. When I get some time, I'll finish the lights. My plan is to
replace the transformer with a battery pack and use LED lights. I'll
probably have to replace the four toggle switches.

Thanks for the follow up. Too bad you couldn't get the rehab done in time.
(-:

A DC wall-wart power supply would be cheaper in the long run and just as
safe. Only low voltage DC goes beyond the sealed unit that plugs into the
wall. I use units I get from AllElectronics and have been very happy with
them.

http://www.allelectronics.com/

You can get the power supply, sockets, LEDs, switched and anything else you
might need from them.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...upplies/1.html

If you switch to LEDs you can use a supply of 1.5A at 12VDC. You can by
LED's that run off 12VDC that have the required current-limiting resistors
built in. I bought a bagful from Ebay to use to light areas in my van. You
can also use Christmas light strings of LEDs for the inside lighting.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-T1-3/4/1.html


--
Bobby G.

On Tue, 27 Dec 2011 07:49:40 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"Jennifer Murphy" wrote in message
.. .
I want to thank everyone who offered helpful suggestions and advice. I
got started too late to get the dollhouse lights working so I just
finished fixing up the house itself. It was a big hit on Christmas
morning. When I get some time, I'll finish the lights. My plan is to
replace the transformer with a battery pack and use LED lights. I'll
probably have to replace the four toggle switches.

Thanks for the follow up. Too bad you couldn't get the rehab done in time.
(-:

We got it all fixed up except for the lights. She absolutely loved it.
Once she saw it, she lost interest in opening up any other presents. It
really is a cool dollhouse. It has a very realistic brick chimney on the
side, windows that actually slide, and all kinds of little accessories.

A DC wall-wart power supply would be cheaper in the long run and just as
safe. Only low voltage DC goes beyond the sealed unit that plugs into the
wall. I use units I get from AllElectronics and have been very happy with
them.

http://www.allelectronics.com/

Thanks for the pointer. I don't completely agree with you about a
transformer being as safe as a battery pack, but it woulod be a biug
improvement over what's there now. The other advantage to batteries is
no cord to trip over. Everything is inside the house.

You can get the power supply, sockets, LEDs, switched and anything else you
might need from them.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...upplies/1.html

Those power supplies look like they have a round plug like for cameras
and computers. Would I get a compatible plug to mount on the side of the
dollhouse? I didn't see anything on the website.

If you switch to LEDs you can use a supply of 1.5A at 12VDC. You can buy
LED's that run off 12VDC that have the required current-limiting resistors
built in. I bought a bagful from Ebay to use to light areas in my van. You
can also use Christmas light strings of LEDs for the inside lighting.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-T1-3/4/1.html

I'm not sure how I'd use that type of LED. I don't want to remove the
E10 base sockets. I couldn't find any E10 base bulbs on their website.

They are available other places:

This place has several types for 12vdc and they come in colors:

http://www.ledlight.com/e10-screw-ba...led-light.aspx

Here's another, but a lot more expensive:

http://www.bulbtown.com/LM1012MS_W_L...lm1012ms-w.htm

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 03:33:27 -0600, wrote:

On Tue, 20 Dec 2011 12:42:00 -0800, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

My multimeter arrived today. I cannot get to the wiring underneath the
dollhouse because there is paint and glue drying. ;-)

I tried to get a voltage reading at the light sockets inside the doll
house. I could not get a consistent reading. The space is very cramped
and the sockets very small (3/8"). I seemed to get a better reading on
DC than AC. The DC readings jumped all over the place, but it looked
like between 0.9 and 1.1 v. The AC readings jumped around even more. The
most consistent reading was 6v at one socket.

Is there a way using this meter to tell if the current is AC or DC?

Next, I did a continuity test of the bulbs themselves. Of the 12 bulbs I
removed from the house, only one passed the continuity test.

I then tried a resistance test on the bulbs. The one that passed the
continuity test showed 11 ohms of resistence. The rest showed infinite
resistance.

I then took the good bulb and tried it in several sockets. After
fiddling with the button switches, I was able to get it to light in
several sockets. It was very dim.

When everything dries, I will try to get under the house and see if I
can get better readings.

Any comments or suggestions?

You have one good bulb and 11 dead ones. There has to be a
transformer somewhere in there. They are not running 120volts to
those bulbs. If you can find replacement bulbs, you are in good
shape, the transformer may be weak, causing dim lights.

I know you want to make the house authentic, but I still say that for
cost and safety reasons, get a string of LED christmas lights (which
do come in sets of 12), and fit them in so you dont see the actual
bulb. Make a little shade around them out of a paper or plastic (LEDs
do not get hot). This will save lots of cash, time, and be much
safer.

Now dangerous are 6 or 12 volts light bulbs, or the wires supplying
them? You can't even feel the current with your hands, only if you
put the leads on your tongue. (OTOH, 110 volts on your tongue are
very very bad.)

How much cash can she possibly save?

OP, go to a toy store or doll house forum and ask about replacement
bulbs.
Also look he
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...ders/_/N-5g6p/ and the
links there.
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...amps/_/N-5g6r/
has a way to search by base, size, etc.

I don't think any of these are small enough
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...ture+lamp&sr=1

You could even use the existing wires, use a 6volt DC wall wart
transformer and solder in LEDs (with resistor) to each socket, and
never have to replace bulbs or worry about safety.

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:10:47 -0500, micky
wrote:


OP, go to a toy store or doll house forum and ask about replacement
bulbs.

Craft stores might be even better than toy stores learning about
building and refurbishing doll houses. At least some of them.

Also look he
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...ders/_/N-5g6p/ and the
links there.
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...amps/_/N-5g6r/
has a way to search by base, size, etc.

I don't think any of these are small enough
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...ture+lamp&sr=1

On 12/21/2011 12:04 PM, micky wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:10:47 -0500,
wrote:


OP, go to a toy store or doll house forum and ask about replacement
bulbs.

Craft stores might be even better than toy stores learning about
building and refurbishing doll houses. At least some of them.

Michaels probably carried some basic miniature lighting gear, but there
are loads of online sources with all manner of transformers, wiring,
sockets, fixtures, etc. Don't need to be an electrician to install it.

If it was doable, refurbishing an old dollhouse, I would update it with
more modern trans. and wiring...for safety as well as aethetic.
Also look he
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...ders/_/N-5g6p/ and the
links there.
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...amps/_/N-5g6r/
has a way to search by base, size, etc.

I don't think any of these are small enough
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...ture+lamp&sr=1

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 12:17:03 -0500, Norminn
wrote:

On 12/21/2011 12:04 PM, micky wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:10:47 -0500,
wrote:


OP, go to a toy store or doll house forum and ask about replacement
bulbs.

Craft stores might be even better than toy stores learning about
building and refurbishing doll houses. At least some of them.

Michaels probably carried some basic miniature lighting gear, but there
are loads of online sources with all manner of transformers, wiring,
sockets, fixtures, etc. Don't need to be an electrician to install it.

If it was doable, refurbishing an old dollhouse, I would update it with
more modern trans. and wiring...for safety as well as aethetic.

What is the safety issue? The little bulbs don't get very hot.

I have radios going back to the 1930's and their transformers, cords,
and internal wiring are in excellent shape. The only thing that
wears out is the capacitors, which a doll house won't have.

Aesthetic is a matter of taste, of coures, but I would like to keep it
original, and also no one I know uses LEDs for lighting.

Also look he
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...ders/_/N-5g6p/ and the
links there.
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...amps/_/N-5g6r/
has a way to search by base, size, etc.

I don't think any of these are small enough
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...ture+lamp&sr=1

On Dec 21, 12:29*pm, micky wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 12:17:03 -0500, Norminn
wrote:





On 12/21/2011 12:04 PM, micky wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:10:47 -0500,
wrote:

OP, go to a toy store or doll house forum and ask about replacement
bulbs.

Craft stores might be even better than toy stores learning about
building and refurbishing doll houses. * At least some of them.

Michaels probably carried some basic miniature lighting gear, but there
are loads of online sources with all manner of transformers, wiring,
sockets, fixtures, etc. *Don't need to be an electrician to install it..

If it was doable, refurbishing an old dollhouse, I would update it with
more modern trans. and wiring...for safety as well as aethetic.

What is the safety issue? * The little bulbs don't get very hot.

I have radios going back to the 1930's and their transformers, cords,
and internal wiring are in excellent shape. * The only thing that
wears out is the capacitors, which a doll house won't have.

Aesthetic is a matter of taste, of coures, but I would like to keep it
original, and also no one I know uses LEDs for lighting.



Also look he
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic.../_/N-5g6p/*and the
links there.
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...amps/_/N-5g6r/
has a way to search by base, size, etc.

I don't think any of these are small enough
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...ature%20la...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

most older radios have NON POLARIZED PLUGS and hot chassis. along with
no ground

a real hazard......

these sort of issues are why a wiring upgrade may be a good idea

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 12:29:45 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 12:17:03 -0500, Norminn
wrote:

On 12/21/2011 12:04 PM, micky wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:10:47 -0500,
wrote:


OP, go to a toy store or doll house forum and ask about replacement
bulbs.

Craft stores might be even better than toy stores learning about
building and refurbishing doll houses. At least some of them.

Michaels probably carried some basic miniature lighting gear, but there
are loads of online sources with all manner of transformers, wiring,
sockets, fixtures, etc. Don't need to be an electrician to install it.

If it was doable, refurbishing an old dollhouse, I would update it with
more modern trans. and wiring...for safety as well as aethetic.

What is the safety issue? The little bulbs don't get very hot.

I have radios going back to the 1930's and their transformers, cords,
and internal wiring are in excellent shape. The only thing that
wears out is the capacitors, which a doll house won't have.

Aesthetic is a matter of taste, of coures, but I would like to keep it
original, and also no one I know uses LEDs for lighting.


Well, you don't know me, but I just installed 7 9 watt CREE LED
replacement lamps in my office track-lights - 110 volt GU10 base
"reflector floods" The 9 watt units are brighter than the 50 watt
Halogens they replaced.

I'm looking at replacing ALL of the crappy CFL bulbs with LEDs in the
house in the near future

Also look he
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...ders/_/N-5g6p/ and the
links there.
http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronic...amps/_/N-5g6r/
has a way to search by base, size, etc.

I don't think any of these are small enough
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...ture+lamp&sr=1

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

Now dangerous are 6 or 12 volts light bulbs, or the wires supplying
them? You can't even feel the current with your hands, only if you
put the leads on your tongue. (OTOH, 110 volts on your tongue are
very very bad.)

Lethal. One of the very first stories I reported on when I became a police
reporter was one of a little 3 year old kid who was on the kitchen counter
and kissed his reflection in the toaster. DOA. It turned out that the
insides of the toaster had been mangled by repeated attempts to remove stuck
items with metal forks. He apparently made contact with the sink rim with
his foot.

I'm thinking there's probably an old model train transformer in that house -
they had multiple taps and short-circuit protection that made a funny
"tick-boom" sort of sound when activated.

--
Bobby G.

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 10:08:18 -0600, wrote:

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:10:47 -0500, micky
wrote:

Now dangerous are 6 or 12 volts light bulbs, or the wires supplying
them? You can't even feel the current with your hands, only if you
put the leads on your tongue. (OTOH, 110 volts on your tongue are
very very bad.)

It aint the 6 or 12 volts that's dangerous, it's the 120v line coming
into the doll house,

Absolutely. That's why it will be no safer with LEDs, which will
still require a transformer.

which is probably an old frayed cord

"Probably", you say. Yes, it may or may not be deteriorated.
That'swhy I suggested she look at it. We don't even know how old
this is, maybe decades younger than the radios and appliances I have
from the 30's that still have good cords.

without
ground.

A ground!!! Do you use a ground for your other lamps? Tensor
lamps and those made just last year with a transformer in the base
don't have grounds, and they are still UL approved. Or you think a
ground is needed for a transformer that is encased in wood and she
can't even reach without taking apart some of the house?

But you probably wont understand any of this..... you likely
sufferred brain damage as a child when you stuck better knives into
all the outlets in your home.

Everyone is being nice here but you can't manage that. What's wrong
with you? Have you been diagnosed yet?

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 10:08:18 -0600, wrote:

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:10:47 -0500, micky
wrote:

Now dangerous are 6 or 12 volts light bulbs, or the wires supplying
them? You can't even feel the current with your hands, only if you
put the leads on your tongue. (OTOH, 110 volts on your tongue are
very very bad.)

It aint the 6 or 12 volts that's dangerous, it's the 120v line coming
into the doll house, which is probably an old frayed cord without
ground. But you probably wont understand any of this..... you likely
sufferred brain damage as a child when you stuck better knives into
all the outlets in your home.
The OP said it was a closth wrapped cord - so it will be rubber
insulated under the cloth - and it appeared to be in good shape.

You need to flex those old ords and listen for "rusling" ir sounds
like moving something in sand. If you hear that, DON"T PLUG IT IN. If
it is quiet and flexible it SHOULD be OK. It LIKELY has a knot tied in
it inside the base of the house as a strain relief (was common
practice in the fifties / sixties)

wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

You need to flex those old ords and listen for "rusling" ir sounds
like moving something in sand. If you hear that, DON"T PLUG IT IN. If
it is quiet and flexible it SHOULD be OK. It LIKELY has a knot tied in
it inside the base of the house as a strain relief (was common
practice in the fifties / sixties)

Good point. And not just any knot, but an Underwriter's knot:

http://electrical.about.com/od/wirin...writerknot.htm

--
Bobby G.

On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 04:49:17 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .

stuff snipped

You need to flex those old ords and listen for "rusling" ir sounds
like moving something in sand. If you hear that, DON"T PLUG IT IN. If
it is quiet and flexible it SHOULD be OK. It LIKELY has a knot tied in
it inside the base of the house as a strain relief (was common
practice in the fifties / sixties)

Good point. And not just any knot, but an Underwriter's knot:

http://electrical.about.com/od/wirin...writerknot.htm

Hmmm. I''ll have to study this. I spent a lot of time in high school
trying to tie one of these things, with a model right in front of me.
They never came out symmetric.

On 2011-12-22, micky wrote:

http://electrical.about.com/od/wirin...writerknot.htm

Hmmm. I''ll have to study this. I spent a lot of time in high school
trying to tie one of these things, with a model right in front of me.

Lordy! You must be dumber'n a bag o' hammers. (kidding!)

Sounds like the cause may be a learning disorder. Are you perhaps
dyslexic? That might explain it.

nb

--
eschew obfuscation

"micky" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 22 Dec 2011 04:49:17 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .

stuff snipped

You need to flex those old ords and listen for "rusling" ir sounds
like moving something in sand. If you hear that, DON"T PLUG IT IN. If
it is quiet and flexible it SHOULD be OK. It LIKELY has a knot tied in
it inside the base of the house as a strain relief (was common
practice in the fifties / sixties)

Good point. And not just any knot, but an Underwriter's knot:

http://electrical.about.com/od/wirin...writerknot.htm

Hmmm. I''ll have to study this. I spent a lot of time in high school
trying to tie one of these things, with a model right in front of me.
They never came out symmetric.

I've tied no more than a few in my life because I've scrounged so many nice
cords with built in strain reliefs for anything I build.

--
Bobby G.

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 03:33:27 -0600, wrote:

On Tue, 20 Dec 2011 12:42:00 -0800, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

My multimeter arrived today. I cannot get to the wiring underneath the
dollhouse because there is paint and glue drying. ;-)

I tried to get a voltage reading at the light sockets inside the doll
house. I could not get a consistent reading. The space is very cramped
and the sockets very small (3/8"). I seemed to get a better reading on
DC than AC. The DC readings jumped all over the place, but it looked
like between 0.9 and 1.1 v. The AC readings jumped around even more. The
most consistent reading was 6v at one socket.

Is there a way using this meter to tell if the current is AC or DC?

Next, I did a continuity test of the bulbs themselves. Of the 12 bulbs I
removed from the house, only one passed the continuity test.

I then tried a resistance test on the bulbs. The one that passed the
continuity test showed 11 ohms of resistence. The rest showed infinite
resistance.

I then took the good bulb and tried it in several sockets. After
fiddling with the button switches, I was able to get it to light in
several sockets. It was very dim.

When everything dries, I will try to get under the house and see if I
can get better readings.

Any comments or suggestions?

You have one good bulb and 11 dead ones. There has to be a
transformer somewhere in there. They are not running 120volts to
those bulbs. If you can find replacement bulbs, you are in good
shape, the transformer may be weak, causing dim lights.

Yes, I'm quite sure that it's nowhere near 110 at the sockets. My guess
is that (a) it was once 2.5 vdc and is now somewhat weaker or (b) it was
originally 1.0-1.5 vdc for a softer light.

I know you want to make the house authentic, but I still say that for
cost and safety reasons, get a string of LED christmas lights (which
do come in sets of 12), and fit them in so you dont see the actual
bulb. Make a little shade around them out of a paper or plastic (LEDs
do not get hot). This will save lots of cash, time, and be much
safer.

You could even use the existing wires, use a 6volt DC wall wart
transformer and solder in LEDs (with resistor) to each socket, and
never have to replace bulbs or worry about safety.

For now, I'll probably replace the bulbs and see how much works. Later,
I may consider replacing the transformer with a battery pack and use
LEDs with an E10 base.

On Dec 21, 5:01*am, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 03:33:27 -0600, wrote:
On Tue, 20 Dec 2011 12:42:00 -0800, Jennifer Murphy
wrote:

My multimeter arrived today. I cannot get to the wiring underneath the
dollhouse because there is paint and glue drying. ;-)

I tried to get a voltage reading at the light sockets inside the doll
house. I could not get a consistent reading. The space is very cramped
and the sockets very small (3/8"). I seemed to get a better reading on
DC than AC. The DC readings jumped all over the place, but it looked
like between 0.9 and 1.1 v. The AC readings jumped around even more. The
most consistent reading was 6v at one socket.

Is there a way using this meter to tell if the current is AC or DC?

Next, I did a continuity test of the bulbs themselves. Of the 12 bulbs I
removed from the house, only one passed the continuity test.

I then tried a resistance test on the bulbs. The one that passed the
continuity test showed 11 ohms of resistence. The rest showed infinite
resistance.

I then took the good bulb and tried it in several sockets. After
fiddling with the button switches, I was able to get it to light in
several sockets. It was very dim.

When everything dries, I will try to get under the house and see if I
can get better readings.

Any comments or suggestions?

You have one good bulb and 11 dead ones. *There has to be a
transformer somewhere in there. *They are not running 120volts to
those bulbs. *If you can find replacement bulbs, you are in good
shape, the transformer may be weak, causing dim lights.

Yes, I'm quite sure that it's nowhere near 110 at the sockets. My guess
is that (a) it was once 2.5 vdc and is now somewhat weaker or (b) it was
originally 1.0-1.5 vdc for a softer light.

I know you want to make the house authentic, but I still say that for
cost and safety reasons, get a string of LED christmas lights (which
do come in sets of 12), and fit them in so you dont see the actual
bulb. *Make a little shade around them out of a paper or plastic (LEDs
do not get hot). *This will save lots of cash, time, and be much
safer.

You could even use the existing wires, use a 6volt DC wall wart
transformer and solder in LEDs (with resistor) to each socket, and
never have to replace bulbs or worry about safety.

For now, I'll probably replace the bulbs and see how much works. Later,
I may consider replacing the transformer with a battery pack and use
LEDs with an E10 base.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Jennifer - The output of a transformer is AC, not DC. Considering the
age of the dollhouse as evidenced by the cloth power cord, it is very
unlikely that the output of whatever transformer was used is converted
to DC using a rectifier. So, work on the assumption that everything is
AC. IF you can find someone who is reasonably knowledgeable, there
are ways to test if the voltage is AC or DC, but with your situation,
I'd just go with the AC.