The description of the dry wall shims found at the site referenced
below contains the following statements.

"Ideal for floating butt-joints and framing irregularities. Save time
by shimming drywall to allow greater inset at joints. Ensures maximum
bonding of tapes with drywall."

http://www.amazon.com/Strait-Flex-Dr.../dp/B00236E27Q

How would these shims help with "floating butt joints", which I assume
are butt joints not centered on a stud?

What do they mean by "allow greater inset at joints" and how would
this "save time"?

On Nov 29, 3:02*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The description of the dry wall shims found at the site referenced
below contains the following statements.

"Ideal for floating butt-joints and framing irregularities. Save time
by shimming drywall to allow greater inset at joints. Ensures maximum
bonding of tapes with drywall."

http://www.amazon.com/Strait-Flex-Dr.../dp/B00236E27Q

How would these shims help with "floating butt joints", which I assume
are butt joints not centered on a stud?

What do they mean by "allow greater inset at joints" and how would
this "save time"?

Don't know the answer, but when I have had a floating butt joint, I
would put a piece of plywood behind the joint before the second piece
of sheetrock went up, use a couple of drywall screws thru the
sheetrock into the plywood, and then put up the second piece of
drywall and a couple more screws thru the new drywall into the
plywood. The wood is a splice over the butt joint so there is no
relative movement between the two piece/ends of the sheetrock. Pretty
much like when patching a really large hole and backing the patch,

DerbyDad03 wrote:
The description of the dry wall shims found at the site referenced
below contains the following statements.

"Ideal for floating butt-joints and framing irregularities. Save time
by shimming drywall to allow greater inset at joints. Ensures maximum
bonding of tapes with drywall."

http://www.amazon.com/Strait-Flex-Dr.../dp/B00236E27Q

How would these shims help with "floating butt joints", which I assume
are butt joints not centered on a stud?

The long edges of drywall are tapered and form a valley when two sheets
are jointed. That valley is filled with tape and mud and results in a
fairly flat surface after finishing. Butt joints have no taper, so you
start with a flat surface and add tape and mud, creating a hump which
must be feathered out.

If you want to float a butt joint between framing members you have to
use a backer board, say a 6" strip of plywood or waferboard. That will
give you the same flat surface which leads to a feathered out hump after
finishing. If you add shim strips to the backer board ==-----== then the
ends of the drywall will be sucked in, forming a valley much like you
get joining two tapered edges.


What do they mean by "allow greater inset at joints" and how would
this "save time"?

If your butt joint is going to fall on stud B, putting a shim on studs A
and C will leave stud B slightly inset, again making it easier to finish
the butt joint.

Mike Paulsen wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
The description of the dry wall shims found at the site referenced
below contains the following statements.

"Ideal for floating butt-joints and framing irregularities. Save time
by shimming drywall to allow greater inset at joints. Ensures maximum
bonding of tapes with drywall."

http://www.amazon.com/Strait-Flex-Dr.../dp/B00236E27Q

How would these shims help with "floating butt joints", which I
assume are butt joints not centered on a stud?

The long edges of drywall are tapered and form a valley when two
sheets are jointed. That valley is filled with tape and mud and
results in a fairly flat surface after finishing. Butt joints have no
taper, so you start with a flat surface and add tape and mud,
creating a hump which must be feathered out.

If you want to float a butt joint between framing members you have to
use a backer board, say a 6" strip of plywood or waferboard. That will
give you the same flat surface which leads to a feathered out hump
after finishing. If you add shim strips to the backer board ==-----==
then the ends of the drywall will be sucked in, forming a valley much
like you get joining two tapered edges.


What do they mean by "allow greater inset at joints" and how would
this "save time"?

If your butt joint is going to fall on stud B, putting a shim on
studs A and C will leave stud B slightly inset, again making it
easier to finish the butt joint.

Great explanation. I learned something, thanks.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Nov 30, 12:41*am, Mike Paulsen wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
The description of the dry wall shims found at the site referenced
below contains the following statements.

"Ideal for floating butt-joints and framing irregularities. Save time
by shimming drywall to allow greater inset at joints. Ensures maximum
bonding of tapes with drywall."

http://www.amazon.com/Strait-Flex-Dr.../dp/B00236E27Q

How would these shims help with "floating butt joints", which I assume
are butt joints not centered on a stud?

The long edges of drywall are tapered and form a valley when two sheets
are jointed. That valley is filled with tape and mud and results in a
fairly flat surface after finishing. Butt joints have no taper, so you
start with a flat surface and add tape and mud, creating a hump which
must be feathered out.

If you want to float a butt joint between framing members you have to
use a backer board, say a 6" strip of plywood or waferboard. That will
give you the same flat surface which leads to a feathered out hump after
finishing. If you add shim strips to the backer board ==-----== then the
ends of the drywall will be sucked in, forming a valley much like you
get joining two tapered edges.



What do they mean by "allow greater inset at joints" and how would
this "save time"?

If your butt joint is going to fall on stud B, putting a shim on studs A
and C will leave stud B slightly inset, again making it easier to finish
the butt joint.

Ditto on the "great explanation" comment.

Never heard of either of those shimming techniques before but, dammit,
they sure do make sense!