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#1
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & woodwedge in slot)?
My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak
(which is another story altogether). So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a larger poplar wedge. My QUESTION: I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was the original handle). However ... When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly. That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have experience in this. Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ... What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I insert the wood and metal wedges provided? Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory handle? |
#2
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 18, 10:54*pm, arkland wrote:
My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak (which is another story altogether). So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a larger poplar wedge. My QUESTION: I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was the original handle). However ... When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly. That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have experience in this. Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ... What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I insert the wood and metal wedges provided? Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory handle? Yep, you must use the wedges. It's possible that the handle absorbed some moisture and expanded since it was made. It's okay to use a handsaw and enlarge the slot a bit so you can get the wood wedge started, and the wood fibers will crush a bit as you hammer it in. The metal wedge installed will expand the top of the handle wood in the opposite direction. Both are important. R |
#3
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 18, 7:54*pm, arkland wrote:
My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak (which is another story altogether). So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a larger poplar wedge. My QUESTION: I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was the original handle). However ... When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly. That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have experience in this. Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ... What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I insert the wood and metal wedges provided? Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory handle? The head will come loose very quickly with any use. If you can get the head back off the way to proceed is to start the wood wedge in the slot before slipping the head on. Using heavy hammer then drive the handle as far as you can. You said it fit fine. I have always had to do some shaving on mine. To get the head back off, hold the sledge up with one hand on the handle and use a heavy hammer to drive the head off, alternately blows from side to side. When it is driven tight, there should be some excess sticking out on he 'wedge side'. Drive the wedge down as far as you can then cut the excess handle off flush with the head. A hacksaw works good for that. Then drive the metal wedge in. I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than double the life of a sledge or maul. Harry K |
#4
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jul 18, 7:54*pm, arkland wrote: My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak (which is another story altogether). So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a larger poplar wedge. My QUESTION: I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was the original handle). However ... When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly.. That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have experience in this. Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ... What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I insert the wood and metal wedges provided? Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory handle? The head will come loose very quickly with any use. If you can get the head back off the way to proceed is to start the wood wedge in the slot before slipping the head on. *Using heavy hammer then drive the handle as far as you can. * You said it fit fine. *I have always had to do some shaving on mine. To get the head back off, hold the sledge up with one hand on the handle and use a heavy hammer to drive the head off, alternately blows from side to side. When it is driven tight, there should be some excess sticking out on he 'wedge side'. *Drive the wedge down as far as you can then cut the excess handle off flush with the head. *A hacksaw works good for that. *Then drive the metal wedge in. I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than double the life of a sledge or maul. Harry K- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Further to the above. The hole in the hammer head is tapered. You put your handle in from the small side so that the wedge opens out the timber and the handle can't come off |
#5
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 19, 7:14*am, harry wrote:
On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote: To get the head on, BTW, the easy way is to start the handle in the hole and then stand the shaft vertical on ahard surface, (head to the top) raise it an bring it down smartly onto the surface. The weight of the head will drive it on to the shaft. I never had a shaft fit exactly either. Do not hammer on with another hammer, they are case hardened. Hammering two case hardened objects together can cause one to shatter. |
#6
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & wood wedge in slot)?
"dadiOH" wrote:
-snip- The hole in the head of the sledge should be tapered...the wood wedge expands the handle in one direction to expand the handle into the taper, the steel wedge expands it in the other direction. Once the handle is expanded, the sledge head can't come flying off so yes, you have to use the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit. I haven't done one in 20 years [when I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever] -- but *that* is the proper way. Use a rasp to make the handle fit snugly while still leaving a small slot to start that poplar wedge. Pound that one home- then put the metal one in crosswise. Rasping makes the handle stick better. Don't widen the slot. Jim |
#7
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 18, 11:22*pm, harry wrote:
On Jul 19, 7:14*am, harry wrote: On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote: To get the head on, BTW, the easy way is to start the handle in the hole *and then stand the shaft vertical on ahard surface, (head to the top) raise it an bring it down smartly onto the surface. The weight of the head will drive it on to the shaft. I never had a shaft fit exactly either. Do not hammer on with another hammer, they are case hardened. Hammering two case hardened objects together can cause one to shatter. Old wives tale and instructions to that effect in the warning labels. Myth busters proved it is wrong as has my lifetime experience of doing it with wedges, mauls, sledges, hammers, anvils, etc. Never got so much as chip (other than caused by mushrooming). Harry K |
#8
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 19, 6:11*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote: -snip- The hole in the head of the sledge should be tapered...the wood wedge expands the handle in one direction to expand the handle into the taper, the steel wedge expands it in the other direction. *Once the handle is expanded, the sledge head can't come flying off so yes, you have to use the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit. I haven't done one in 20 years [when I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever] -- *but *that* is the proper way. * *Use a rasp to make the handle fit snugly while still leaving a small slot to start that poplar wedge. * *Pound that one home- then put the metal one in crosswise. Rasping makes the handle stick better. * Don't widen the slot. Jim Starging the wedge befor inserting handle works very well for me. Harry K |
#9
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 18, 11:14*pm, harry wrote:
On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote: On Jul 18, 7:54*pm, arkland wrote: My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak (which is another story altogether). So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a larger poplar wedge. My QUESTION: I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was the original handle). However ... When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly. That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have experience in this. Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ... What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I insert the wood and metal wedges provided? Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory handle? The head will come loose very quickly with any use. If you can get the head back off the way to proceed is to start the wood wedge in the slot before slipping the head on. *Using heavy hammer then drive the handle as far as you can. * You said it fit fine. *I have always had to do some shaving on mine. To get the head back off, hold the sledge up with one hand on the handle and use a heavy hammer to drive the head off, alternately blows from side to side. When it is driven tight, there should be some excess sticking out on he 'wedge side'. *Drive the wedge down as far as you can then cut the excess handle off flush with the head. *A hacksaw works good for that. *Then drive the metal wedge in. I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than double the life of a sledge or maul. Harry K- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Further to the above. The hole in the hammer head is tapered. You put your handle in from the small side so that the wedge opens out the timber and the handle can't come off- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yep. One of my problems doing handles on my equipment is that both maul and sledge are so old I can't read the markings and am never sure which is the small side . Harry K |
#10
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 19, 5:21*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jul 18, 11:22*pm, harry wrote: On Jul 19, 7:14*am, harry wrote: On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote: To get the head on, BTW, the easy way is to start the handle in the hole *and then stand the shaft vertical on ahard surface, (head to the top) raise it an bring it down smartly onto the surface. The weight of the head will drive it on to the shaft. I never had a shaft fit exactly either. Do not hammer on with another hammer, they are case hardened. Hammering two case hardened objects together can cause one to shatter. Old wives tale and instructions to that effect in the warning labels. Myth busters proved it is wrong as has my lifetime experience of doing it with wedges, mauls, sledges, hammers, anvils, etc. *Never got so much as chip (other than caused by mushrooming). Harry K If it mushrooms, it has not been properly hardened. Or someone has put it in a fire to get the broken piece out. Buggered after such treatment. Anvil is cast iron or steel and not hardened. |
#11
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 18, 10:54*pm, arkland wrote:
My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak (which is another story altogether). So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a larger poplar wedge. My QUESTION: I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was the original handle). However ... When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly. That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have experience in this. Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ... What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I insert the wood and metal wedges provided? Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory handle? Start the wooden wedge in the slot before you put the head on. Start the head on then vertically bang the handle end on something solid like a concrete floor until the head seats. Drive in the wedges. Jimmie |
#12
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 20:10:29 -0700, RicodJour wrote:
Yep, you must use the wedges. I was afraid of that. |
#13
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 21:26:09 -0700, Harry K wrote:
I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than double the life of a sledge or maul. Didn't see any at Home Depot or Lowes. Need to look them up. Makes sense. |
#14
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:14:56 -0700, harry wrote:
The hole in the hammer head is tapered. You put your handle in from the small side so that the wedge opens out the timber and the handle can't come off Hmmmmmm? I 'looked' at both ends of the metal head and didn't see either side being larger than the other. There was a "6LB" & the company name stamped on one side of the maul head and nothing on the other side. That seemed to be the only difference. Do the maul heads really have a top side and a bottom side? |
#15
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:24:23 -0700, Harry K wrote:
I can't read the markings and am never sure which is the small side I only saw 'markings' on one side; but how do I know whether they indicate the top or the bottom of the maul head? The hole 'looked' the same to me. |
#16
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:22:46 -0700, harry wrote:
the easy way is to start the handle in the hole and then stand the shaft vertical on ahard surface, (head to the top) raise it an bring it down smartly onto the surface. The weight of the head will drive it on to the shaft. That's exactly how I did it. I looked on the maul head for markings, and found what appears to be a brand name and the letters "6 LB" on one side; but I couldn't tell if that was the top or the bottom of the maul. I put the hole on the shaft on both sides - and - they appeared to be the same (but I may have been wrong). Then, I simply tapped the bottom of the handle on the pavement and the hammer head slipped down. It wasn't easy though. I had to tap as hard as I could on a concrete curb (asphalt would have dented easily) about 20 or so times for the head to make it flush to the top of the wood. Of course, as I stated, now there's no room for the wood wedge or the metal wedge. |
#17
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:21:55 -0700, Harry K wrote:
Never got so much as chip (other than caused by mushrooming). This 6 LB maul has hit hard concrete very many times and has slight mushrooming - but - no chips. |
#18
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:01:54 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
yes, you have to use the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit. Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle! Now the problem is to get the maul 'off' the handle ... |
#19
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:11:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever The "ugly yellow handles' were both more expensive and quite a bit heavier (maybe three times heavier) when I held one the wood in one hand and the yellow fiberglass in the other hand. So, I opted for good old hickory. In hindsight, would the installation have been any different on the yellow fiberglass handles? |
#20
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 14:33:40 -0700, JIMMIE wrote:
Start the wooden wedge in the slot before you put the head on. The 'only' way that was going to happen would have been if I 'rasped' the handle down smaller ... or ... if the maul truly has a top and a bottom ... then maybe I put it on upside down (but I sure couldn't tell the difference). |
#21
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
In article ,
arkland wrote: On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:14:56 -0700, harry wrote: The hole in the hammer head is tapered. You put your handle in from the small side so that the wedge opens out the timber and the handle can't come off Hmmmmmm? I 'looked' at both ends of the metal head and didn't see either side being larger than the other. There was a "6LB" & the company name stamped on one side of the maul head and nothing on the other side. That seemed to be the only difference. Do the maul heads really have a top side and a bottom side? Many do. I have also seen some that had sort of an hourglass cross section. The cheapest (or least-well designed) may have a straight sided bore. -- There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org |
#22
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 20, 3:27*am, arkland wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 20:10:29 -0700, RicodJour wrote: Yep, you must use the wedges. I was afraid of that. You need to examine the taper of the hole.The wedges go in the right way round to expand the wood to fill the taper. Metal wedges are by far the best in my experience. |
#23
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & wood wedge in slot)?
On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 02:36:42 +0000 (UTC), arkland
wrote: On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:11:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote: I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever The "ugly yellow handles' were both more expensive and quite a bit heavier (maybe three times heavier) when I held one the wood in one hand and the yellow fiberglass in the other hand. Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier-- and just don't have the 'feel' of wood. I've gotten used to them, but I don't swing them every day like I used to. So, I opted for good old hickory. If you found a hickory handle that was any good- you're a better man than I am. The last *good* hickory handle I bought was from an old German guy who made them in 1975. I've had store bought ones split on the first day out. In hindsight, would the installation have been any different on the yellow fiberglass handles? The ones I got fit fairly loosely and then you poured epoxy around them. I've got a 6?lb hammer, a 12-15 pound sledge and a felling axe that haven't budged in 20 years or so-- and though I don't use them so much anymore, the first 10 years were pretty regular-- and they've all had the bejeezus abused out of them. Jim |
#24
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 19, 7:36*pm, arkland wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:11:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote: I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever The "ugly yellow handles' were both more expensive and quite a bit heavier (maybe three times heavier) when I held one the wood in one hand and the yellow fiberglass in the other hand. So, I opted for good old hickory. In hindsight, would the installation have been any different on the yellow fiberglass handles? Lot more messy as you have to epoxy them in IIANM. Never used one myself. I prefer the 'spring' in wood handles. Harry K |
#25
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 19, 7:34*pm, arkland wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:01:54 -0400, dadiOH wrote: yes, you have to use the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit. Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle! Now the problem is to get the maul 'off' the handle ... hold the sledge in midair, head down. Heavy hammer and alternating blows side to side on the sledge head. Ignore all the "don't hammer on hardened heads". It is 90% BS and 10% wishful thinking. Harry K |
#26
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 19, 7:34*pm, arkland wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:01:54 -0400, dadiOH wrote: yes, you have to use the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit. Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle! I missed that. You say the handle fits. DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE HANDLE. It will be forever loose if you do. Start the wood wedge in before insertin the handle in the sledge head. Yes, it works fine in my over 30 years experience do it. It doesn't take much just far enought that it doesn't fall out while inserting handle. Harry K |
#27
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 21, 5:41*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jul 19, 7:34*pm, arkland wrote: Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle! I missed that. You say the handle fits. *DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE HANDLE. *It will be forever loose if you do. He started by saying the handle fit fine, but his description of how he gorilla'd it on suggests otherwise... |
#28
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 23, 10:54*am, Larry Fishel wrote:
On Jul 21, 5:41*pm, Harry K wrote: On Jul 19, 7:34*pm, arkland wrote: Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle! I missed that. You say the handle fits. *DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE HANDLE. *It will be forever loose if you do. He started by saying the handle fit fine, but his description of how he gorilla'd it on suggests otherwise... A well fitting handle does need to be driven in. I fit them by shaving down with broken glass. Takes off a few thousandths at a time, trial fit (drive until it won't go) , remove head, shave a bit at the marking, repeat until it goes all the way, If you can slip the handle on without hammering or tapping the handle on something solid it is too loose. Harry K |
#29
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 08:03:59 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier Why? I'm guessing they last longer than the wood hickory handles do? Is that the reason? Or that the head stays on longer? |
#30
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:41:17 -0700, Harry K wrote:
DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE HANDLE. Start the wood wedge in before inserting the handle I see that was my main mistake. I didn't know to put the wood wedge in BEFORE inserting the handle into the maul. And, I couldn't tell which way the maul was up versus down (if there is a difference, I didn't see it). So, I guess, my inexperience killed me. It didn't help that there were no instructions. My mistake for not asking BEFORE doing. |
#31
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 10:54:29 -0700, Larry Fishel wrote:
He started by saying the handle fit fine, but his description of how he gorilla'd it on suggests otherwise... Hmmm... maybe I misunderstood. When I put the handle in the maul hole, it was 'perfect'. That meant it was EXACTLY the same size. So, I held the maul handle down over a concrete curb and banged down on the handle. The maul head easily slid down about, oh, an inch or more. Then I banged harder on the concrete; the maul slid further; but there was about, oh, say a half inch left between the top of the maul and the top of the handle. When I finally banged pretty darn hard, the top of the handle came flush. At that point, I stopped banging. It was clear to me that if I banged the handle down further the maul head would slip down further (there is still an inch or so of handle taper left below the maul, which seems like a weak point to me). By that (more detailed) description, would you say that the maul fit or didn't fit the handle? |
#32
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & wood wedge in slot)?
On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:22:10 +0000 (UTC), arkland
wrote: On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 08:03:59 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote: Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier Why? I'm guessing they last longer than the wood hickory handles do? Is that the reason? Or that the head stays on longer? Both. They take 100 times the abuse that a wood handle will-- and leaving it out in the weather won't affect them. The head will rust off before the plastic complains. And the heads are epoxied in so they are permanent. If you managed to break one, or cut it up with your chainsaw, or something, the only way you'll remove the rest of the handle is with a torch. But don't run out and buy plastic for all your weapons. Try one-- I can live with its *very* different feel, but I can see where some folks don't like them. All my shovels, axes, heavy hammers and sledges now have plastic. [one of the plastic shovel handles is on its 3rd shovel and I'm looking for another broken handled shovel at a garage sale] Jim |
#33
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 25, 11:13*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:22:10 +0000 (UTC), arkland wrote: On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 08:03:59 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote: Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier Why? I'm guessing they last longer than the wood hickory handles do? Is that the reason? Or that the head stays on longer? Both. * *They take 100 times the abuse that a wood handle will-- and leaving it out in the weather won't affect them. * *The head will rust off before the plastic complains. And the heads are epoxied in so they are permanent. * *If you managed to break one, or cut it up with your chainsaw, or something, the only way you'll remove the rest of the handle is with a torch. But don't run out and buy plastic for all your weapons. *Try one-- *I can live with its *very* different feel, but I can see where some folks don't like them. All my shovels, axes, heavy hammers and sledges now have plastic. [one of the plastic shovel handles is on its 3rd shovel and I'm looking for another broken handled shovel at a garage sale] Jim Those rubber donut "handly savers" do work. I used them for the first time a few years ago. This year I had to reset both the sledge and maul handle due to looseness. Handles were still fairly pristine and solid. I shaved the handles a bit so they would go in further, wedges driven and excess cut off. First time ever had a handle survive long enough to be re-fitted. Harry K |
#34
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On Jul 25, 9:24*am, arkland wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:41:17 -0700, Harry K wrote: DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE HANDLE. Start the wood wedge in before inserting the handle I see that was my main mistake. I didn't know to put the wood wedge in BEFORE inserting the handle into the maul. And, I couldn't tell which way the maul was up versus down (if there is a difference, I didn't see it). So, I guess, my inexperience killed me. It didn't help that there were no instructions. My mistake for not asking BEFORE doing. Well you are learnign faster than _I_ did. I figured all that out on my own. No 'puters, internet, etc. back in the dark ages. Harry K |
#35
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Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?
On 7/25/2011 2:13 PM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:22:10 +0000 (UTC), wrote: On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 08:03:59 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote: Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier Why? I'm guessing they last longer than the wood hickory handles do? Is that the reason? Or that the head stays on longer? Both. They take 100 times the abuse that a wood handle will-- and leaving it out in the weather won't affect them. The head will rust off before the plastic complains. And the heads are epoxied in so they are permanent. If you managed to break one, or cut it up with your chainsaw, or something, the only way you'll remove the rest of the handle is with a torch. But don't run out and buy plastic for all your weapons. Try one-- I can live with its *very* different feel, but I can see where some folks don't like them. All my shovels, axes, heavy hammers and sledges now have plastic. [one of the plastic shovel handles is on its 3rd shovel and I'm looking for another broken handled shovel at a garage sale] Jim I'll second that. My mother and grandmother could simply not be convinced to put their wood-handled tools away after playing in the garden. Being the dutiful son/grandson, I was always the one who got tapped to turn the garden beds in the spring. (What's a roto-tiller?). After about the third time of having the damn shovel handle snap on me, the lightbulb went off, and I bought them new shovels with fiberglas handles. All my old man's nagging got to me. Even now, living alone, I can't bear to NOT rinse the shovels and metal-ended tools off before I put them away in the shed. -- aem sends... |
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