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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & woodwedge in slot)?

My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak
(which is another story altogether).

So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a
slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a
larger poplar wedge.

My QUESTION:
I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound
sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside
the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was
the original handle).

However ...

When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly.
That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe
I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have
experience in this.

Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ...

What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I
insert the wood and metal wedges provided?

Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory
handle?

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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 18, 10:54*pm, arkland wrote:
My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak
(which is another story altogether).

So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a
slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a
larger poplar wedge.

My QUESTION:
I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound
sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside
the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was
the original handle).

However ...

When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly.
That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe
I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have
experience in this.

Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ...

What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I
insert the wood and metal wedges provided?

Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory
handle?


Yep, you must use the wedges. It's possible that the handle absorbed
some moisture and expanded since it was made. It's okay to use a
handsaw and enlarge the slot a bit so you can get the wood wedge
started, and the wood fibers will crush a bit as you hammer it in.
The metal wedge installed will expand the top of the handle wood in
the opposite direction. Both are important.

R
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 18, 7:54*pm, arkland wrote:
My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak
(which is another story altogether).

So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a
slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a
larger poplar wedge.

My QUESTION:
I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound
sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside
the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was
the original handle).

However ...

When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly.
That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe
I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have
experience in this.

Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ...

What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I
insert the wood and metal wedges provided?

Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory
handle?


The head will come loose very quickly with any use.

If you can get the head back off the way to proceed is to start the
wood wedge in the slot before slipping the head on. Using heavy
hammer then drive the handle as far as you can. You said it fit
fine. I have always had to do some shaving on mine.

To get the head back off, hold the sledge up with one hand on the
handle and use a heavy hammer to drive the head off, alternately blows
from side to side.

When it is driven tight, there should be some excess sticking out on
he 'wedge side'. Drive the wedge down as far as you can then cut the
excess handle off flush with the head. A hacksaw works good for
that. Then drive the metal wedge in.

I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than
double the life of a sledge or maul.

Harry K
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jul 18, 7:54*pm, arkland wrote:





My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak
(which is another story altogether).


So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a
slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a
larger poplar wedge.


My QUESTION:
I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound
sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside
the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was
the original handle).


However ...


When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly..
That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe
I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have
experience in this.


Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ...


What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I
insert the wood and metal wedges provided?


Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory
handle?


The head will come loose very quickly with any use.

If you can get the head back off the way to proceed is to start the
wood wedge in the slot before slipping the head on. *Using heavy
hammer then drive the handle as far as you can. * You said it fit
fine. *I have always had to do some shaving on mine.

To get the head back off, hold the sledge up with one hand on the
handle and use a heavy hammer to drive the head off, alternately blows
from side to side.

When it is driven tight, there should be some excess sticking out on
he 'wedge side'. *Drive the wedge down as far as you can then cut the
excess handle off flush with the head. *A hacksaw works good for
that. *Then drive the metal wedge in.

I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than
double the life of a sledge or maul.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Further to the above. The hole in the hammer head is tapered. You put
your handle in from the small side so that the wedge opens out the
timber and the handle can't come off
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 19, 7:14*am, harry wrote:
On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote:

To get the head on, BTW, the easy way is to start the handle in the
hole and then stand the shaft vertical on ahard surface, (head to the
top) raise it an bring it down smartly onto the surface. The weight of
the head will drive it on to the shaft.

I never had a shaft fit exactly either.

Do not hammer on with another hammer, they are case hardened.
Hammering two case hardened objects together can cause one to shatter.


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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & wood wedge in slot)?

"dadiOH" wrote:

-snip-

The hole in the head of the sledge should be tapered...the wood wedge
expands the handle in one direction to expand the handle into the taper, the
steel wedge expands it in the other direction. Once the handle is expanded,
the sledge head can't come flying off so yes, you have to use the wedges
even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit.



I haven't done one in 20 years [when I bought those ugly yellow
handles that last forever] -- but *that* is the proper way. Use a
rasp to make the handle fit snugly while still leaving a small slot to
start that poplar wedge. Pound that one home- then put the metal
one in crosswise.

Rasping makes the handle stick better. Don't widen the slot.

Jim
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 18, 11:22*pm, harry wrote:
On Jul 19, 7:14*am, harry wrote: On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote:

To get the head on, BTW, the easy way is to start the handle in the
hole *and then stand the shaft vertical on ahard surface, (head to the
top) raise it an bring it down smartly onto the surface. The weight of
the head will drive it on to the shaft.

I never had a shaft fit exactly either.

Do not hammer on with another hammer, they are case hardened.
Hammering two case hardened objects together can cause one to shatter.


Old wives tale and instructions to that effect in the warning labels.
Myth busters proved it is wrong as has my lifetime experience of doing
it with wedges, mauls, sledges, hammers, anvils, etc. Never got so
much as chip (other than caused by mushrooming).

Harry K
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 19, 6:11*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote:

-snip-



The hole in the head of the sledge should be tapered...the wood wedge
expands the handle in one direction to expand the handle into the taper, the
steel wedge expands it in the other direction. *Once the handle is expanded,
the sledge head can't come flying off so yes, you have to use the wedges
even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit.


I haven't done one in 20 years [when I bought those ugly yellow
handles that last forever] -- *but *that* is the proper way. * *Use a
rasp to make the handle fit snugly while still leaving a small slot to
start that poplar wedge. * *Pound that one home- then put the metal
one in crosswise.

Rasping makes the handle stick better. * Don't widen the slot.

Jim


Starging the wedge befor inserting handle works very well for me.

Harry K
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 18, 11:14*pm, harry wrote:
On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote:





On Jul 18, 7:54*pm, arkland wrote:


My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak
(which is another story altogether).


So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a
slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a
larger poplar wedge.


My QUESTION:
I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound
sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside
the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was
the original handle).


However ...


When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly.
That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe
I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have
experience in this.


Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ...


What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I
insert the wood and metal wedges provided?


Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory
handle?


The head will come loose very quickly with any use.


If you can get the head back off the way to proceed is to start the
wood wedge in the slot before slipping the head on. *Using heavy
hammer then drive the handle as far as you can. * You said it fit
fine. *I have always had to do some shaving on mine.


To get the head back off, hold the sledge up with one hand on the
handle and use a heavy hammer to drive the head off, alternately blows
from side to side.


When it is driven tight, there should be some excess sticking out on
he 'wedge side'. *Drive the wedge down as far as you can then cut the
excess handle off flush with the head. *A hacksaw works good for
that. *Then drive the metal wedge in.


I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than
double the life of a sledge or maul.


Harry K- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Further to the above. The hole in the hammer head is tapered. You put
your handle in from the small side so that the wedge opens out the
timber and the handle can't come off- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Yep. One of my problems doing handles on my equipment is that both
maul and sledge are so old I can't read the markings and am never sure
which is the small side .

Harry K
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 19, 5:21*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jul 18, 11:22*pm, harry wrote:

On Jul 19, 7:14*am, harry wrote: On Jul 19, 5:26*am, Harry K wrote:


To get the head on, BTW, the easy way is to start the handle in the
hole *and then stand the shaft vertical on ahard surface, (head to the
top) raise it an bring it down smartly onto the surface. The weight of
the head will drive it on to the shaft.


I never had a shaft fit exactly either.


Do not hammer on with another hammer, they are case hardened.
Hammering two case hardened objects together can cause one to shatter.


Old wives tale and instructions to that effect in the warning labels.
Myth busters proved it is wrong as has my lifetime experience of doing
it with wedges, mauls, sledges, hammers, anvils, etc. *Never got so
much as chip (other than caused by mushrooming).

Harry K


If it mushrooms, it has not been properly hardened. Or someone has
put it in a fire to get the broken piece out. Buggered after such
treatment.
Anvil is cast iron or steel and not hardened.


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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 18, 10:54*pm, arkland wrote:
My 6-pound sledge handle broke trying to split heavy (but still wet) oak
(which is another story altogether).

So I bought, for $19 + tax, a hickory "round" sledge handle which had a
slot at the top, and came with a metal "wedge" plus what looks like a
larger poplar wedge.

My QUESTION:
I understand the 'proper' way would have been to insert the 6-pound
sledge head onto the round handle, then insert the wood parallel inside
the pre-cut slot, and then, insert the metal wedge perpendicular (as was
the original handle).

However ...

When I 'tapped' the heavy sledge head onto the handle, it fit perfectly.
That is, there is no slot anymore! No place to put the wood wedge. Maybe
I could put the metal wedge in crosswise ... but ... I don't have
experience in this.

Since I don't have experience ... May I ask ...

What is the prognosis? Will the sledge head (eventually?) fly off? Must I
insert the wood and metal wedges provided?

Or, is it just fine as long as the sledge head is tight on the hickory
handle?


Start the wooden wedge in the slot before you put the head on.

Start the head on then vertically bang the handle end on something
solid like a concrete floor until the head seats.

Drive in the wedges.

Jimmie
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 20:10:29 -0700, RicodJour wrote:

Yep, you must use the wedges.


I was afraid of that.
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 21:26:09 -0700, Harry K wrote:

I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than double
the life of a sledge or maul.


Didn't see any at Home Depot or Lowes. Need to look them up. Makes sense.
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On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:14:56 -0700, harry wrote:

The hole in the hammer head is tapered. You put your handle in from the
small side so that the wedge opens out the timber and the handle can't
come off


Hmmmmmm? I 'looked' at both ends of the metal head and didn't see either
side being larger than the other. There was a "6LB" & the company name
stamped on one side of the maul head and nothing on the other side. That
seemed to be the only difference.

Do the maul heads really have a top side and a bottom side?
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On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:24:23 -0700, Harry K wrote:

I can't read the markings and am never sure which is the small side


I only saw 'markings' on one side; but how do I know whether they
indicate the top or the bottom of the maul head?

The hole 'looked' the same to me.


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On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:22:46 -0700, harry wrote:

the easy way is to start the handle in the hole and then stand the
shaft vertical on ahard surface, (head to the top) raise it an bring it
down smartly onto the surface. The weight of the head will drive it on
to the shaft.


That's exactly how I did it.

I looked on the maul head for markings, and found what appears to be a
brand name and the letters "6 LB" on one side; but I couldn't tell if
that was the top or the bottom of the maul.

I put the hole on the shaft on both sides - and - they appeared to be the
same (but I may have been wrong).

Then, I simply tapped the bottom of the handle on the pavement and the
hammer head slipped down. It wasn't easy though. I had to tap as hard as
I could on a concrete curb (asphalt would have dented easily) about 20 or
so times for the head to make it flush to the top of the wood.

Of course, as I stated, now there's no room for the wood wedge or the
metal wedge.
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On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:21:55 -0700, Harry K wrote:

Never got so much as chip (other than caused by mushrooming).


This 6 LB maul has hit hard concrete very many times and has slight
mushrooming - but - no chips.

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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:01:54 -0400, dadiOH wrote:

yes, you have to use
the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit.


Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle!

Now the problem is to get the maul 'off' the handle ...

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On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:11:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever


The "ugly yellow handles' were both more expensive and quite a bit
heavier (maybe three times heavier) when I held one the wood in one hand
and the yellow fiberglass in the other hand.

So, I opted for good old hickory.

In hindsight, would the installation have been any different on the
yellow fiberglass handles?
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On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 14:33:40 -0700, JIMMIE wrote:

Start the wooden wedge in the slot before you put the head on.


The 'only' way that was going to happen would have been if I 'rasped' the
handle down smaller ... or ... if the maul truly has a top and a
bottom ... then maybe I put it on upside down (but I sure couldn't tell
the difference).


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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

In article ,
arkland wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:14:56 -0700, harry wrote:

The hole in the hammer head is tapered. You put your handle in from the
small side so that the wedge opens out the timber and the handle can't
come off


Hmmmmmm? I 'looked' at both ends of the metal head and didn't see either
side being larger than the other. There was a "6LB" & the company name
stamped on one side of the maul head and nothing on the other side. That
seemed to be the only difference.

Do the maul heads really have a top side and a bottom side?


Many do. I have also seen some that had sort of an hourglass cross section.
The cheapest (or least-well designed) may have a straight sided bore.


--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 20, 3:27*am, arkland wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 20:10:29 -0700, RicodJour wrote:
Yep, you must use the wedges.


I was afraid of that.


You need to examine the taper of the hole.The wedges go in the right
way round to expand the wood to fill the taper. Metal wedges are by
far the best in my experience.
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & wood wedge in slot)?

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 02:36:42 +0000 (UTC), arkland
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:11:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever


The "ugly yellow handles' were both more expensive and quite a bit
heavier (maybe three times heavier) when I held one the wood in one hand
and the yellow fiberglass in the other hand.


Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier-- and
just don't have the 'feel' of wood. I've gotten used to them, but I
don't swing them every day like I used to.

So, I opted for good old hickory.


If you found a hickory handle that was any good- you're a better man
than I am. The last *good* hickory handle I bought was from an old
German guy who made them in 1975. I've had store bought ones split
on the first day out.


In hindsight, would the installation have been any different on the
yellow fiberglass handles?


The ones I got fit fairly loosely and then you poured epoxy around
them. I've got a 6?lb hammer, a 12-15 pound sledge and a felling
axe that haven't budged in 20 years or so-- and though I don't use
them so much anymore, the first 10 years were pretty regular-- and
they've all had the bejeezus abused out of them.

Jim
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 19, 7:36*pm, arkland wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:11:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever


The "ugly yellow handles' were both more expensive and quite a bit
heavier (maybe three times heavier) when I held one the wood in one hand
and the yellow fiberglass in the other hand.

So, I opted for good old hickory.

In hindsight, would the installation have been any different on the
yellow fiberglass handles?


Lot more messy as you have to epoxy them in IIANM. Never used one
myself. I prefer the 'spring' in wood handles.

Harry K
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 19, 7:34*pm, arkland wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:01:54 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
yes, you have to use
the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit.


Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle!

Now the problem is to get the maul 'off' the handle ...


hold the sledge in midair, head down. Heavy hammer and alternating
blows side to side on the sledge head. Ignore all the "don't hammer
on hardened heads". It is 90% BS and 10% wishful thinking.

Harry K


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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 19, 7:34*pm, arkland wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:01:54 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
yes, you have to use
the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit.


Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle!


I missed that. You say the handle fits. DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE
HANDLE. It will be forever loose if you do. Start the wood wedge in
before insertin the handle in the sledge head. Yes, it works fine in
my over 30 years experience do it. It doesn't take much just far
enought that it doesn't fall out while inserting handle.

Harry K

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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 21, 5:41*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jul 19, 7:34*pm, arkland wrote:
Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle!


I missed that. You say the handle fits. *DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE
HANDLE. *It will be forever loose if you do.


He started by saying the handle fit fine, but his description of how
he gorilla'd it on suggests otherwise...
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On Jul 23, 10:54*am, Larry Fishel wrote:
On Jul 21, 5:41*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jul 19, 7:34*pm, arkland wrote:
Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle!


I missed that. You say the handle fits. *DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE
HANDLE. *It will be forever loose if you do.


He started by saying the handle fit fine, but his description of how
he gorilla'd it on suggests otherwise...


A well fitting handle does need to be driven in. I fit them by
shaving down with broken glass. Takes off a few thousandths at a
time, trial fit (drive until it won't go) , remove head, shave a bit
at the marking, repeat until it goes all the way, If you can slip
the handle on without hammering or tapping the handle on something
solid it is too loose.

Harry K

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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 08:03:59 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier


Why?

I'm guessing they last longer than the wood hickory handles do?

Is that the reason?

Or that the head stays on longer?

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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:41:17 -0700, Harry K wrote:

DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE HANDLE.
Start the wood wedge in before inserting the handle


I see that was my main mistake.

I didn't know to put the wood wedge in BEFORE inserting the handle into
the maul.

And, I couldn't tell which way the maul was up versus down (if there is a
difference, I didn't see it).

So, I guess, my inexperience killed me. It didn't help that there were no
instructions.

My mistake for not asking BEFORE doing.


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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 10:54:29 -0700, Larry Fishel wrote:

He started by saying the handle fit fine, but his description of how he
gorilla'd it on suggests otherwise...


Hmmm... maybe I misunderstood.

When I put the handle in the maul hole, it was 'perfect'.

That meant it was EXACTLY the same size.

So, I held the maul handle down over a concrete curb and banged down on
the handle.

The maul head easily slid down about, oh, an inch or more.

Then I banged harder on the concrete; the maul slid further; but there
was about, oh, say a half inch left between the top of the maul and the
top of the handle.

When I finally banged pretty darn hard, the top of the handle came flush.

At that point, I stopped banging. It was clear to me that if I banged the
handle down further the maul head would slip down further (there is still
an inch or so of handle taper left below the maul, which seems like a
weak point to me).

By that (more detailed) description, would you say that the maul fit or
didn't fit the handle?

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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & wood wedge in slot)?

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:22:10 +0000 (UTC), arkland
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 08:03:59 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier


Why?

I'm guessing they last longer than the wood hickory handles do?

Is that the reason?

Or that the head stays on longer?


Both. They take 100 times the abuse that a wood handle will-- and
leaving it out in the weather won't affect them. The head will rust
off before the plastic complains.

And the heads are epoxied in so they are permanent. If you managed
to break one, or cut it up with your chainsaw, or something, the only
way you'll remove the rest of the handle is with a torch.

But don't run out and buy plastic for all your weapons. Try one-- I
can live with its *very* different feel, but I can see where some
folks don't like them.

All my shovels, axes, heavy hammers and sledges now have plastic. [one
of the plastic shovel handles is on its 3rd shovel and I'm looking for
another broken handled shovel at a garage sale]

Jim
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 25, 11:13*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:22:10 +0000 (UTC), arkland
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 08:03:59 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:


Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier


Why?


I'm guessing they last longer than the wood hickory handles do?


Is that the reason?


Or that the head stays on longer?


Both. * *They take 100 times the abuse that a wood handle will-- and
leaving it out in the weather won't affect them. * *The head will rust
off before the plastic complains.

And the heads are epoxied in so they are permanent. * *If you managed
to break one, or cut it up with your chainsaw, or something, the only
way you'll remove the rest of the handle is with a torch.

But don't run out and buy plastic for all your weapons. *Try one-- *I
can live with its *very* different feel, but I can see where some
folks don't like them.

All my shovels, axes, heavy hammers and sledges now have plastic. [one
of the plastic shovel handles is on its 3rd shovel and I'm looking for
another broken handled shovel at a garage sale]

Jim


Those rubber donut "handly savers" do work. I used them for the first
time a few years ago. This year I had to reset both the sledge and
maul handle due to looseness. Handles were still fairly pristine and
solid. I shaved the handles a bit so they would go in further, wedges
driven and excess cut off. First time ever had a handle survive long
enough to be re-fitted.

Harry K
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On Jul 25, 9:24*am, arkland wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:41:17 -0700, Harry K wrote:
DO NOT SKINNY DOWN THE HANDLE.
Start the wood wedge in before inserting the handle


I see that was my main mistake.

I didn't know to put the wood wedge in BEFORE inserting the handle into
the maul.

And, I couldn't tell which way the maul was up versus down (if there is a
difference, I didn't see it).

So, I guess, my inexperience killed me. It didn't help that there were no
instructions.

My mistake for not asking BEFORE doing.


Well you are learnign faster than _I_ did. I figured all that out on
my own. No 'puters, internet, etc. back in the dark ages.

Harry K
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Default Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal &wood wedge in slot)?

On 7/25/2011 2:13 PM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:22:10 +0000 (UTC),
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 08:03:59 -0400, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

Long term they are cheaper than wood. But they *are* heavier


Why?

I'm guessing they last longer than the wood hickory handles do?

Is that the reason?

Or that the head stays on longer?


Both. They take 100 times the abuse that a wood handle will-- and
leaving it out in the weather won't affect them. The head will rust
off before the plastic complains.

And the heads are epoxied in so they are permanent. If you managed
to break one, or cut it up with your chainsaw, or something, the only
way you'll remove the rest of the handle is with a torch.

But don't run out and buy plastic for all your weapons. Try one-- I
can live with its *very* different feel, but I can see where some
folks don't like them.

All my shovels, axes, heavy hammers and sledges now have plastic. [one
of the plastic shovel handles is on its 3rd shovel and I'm looking for
another broken handled shovel at a garage sale]

Jim


I'll second that. My mother and grandmother could simply not be
convinced to put their wood-handled tools away after playing in the
garden. Being the dutiful son/grandson, I was always the one who got
tapped to turn the garden beds in the spring. (What's a roto-tiller?).
After about the third time of having the damn shovel handle snap on me,
the lightbulb went off, and I bought them new shovels with fiberglas
handles.

All my old man's nagging got to me. Even now, living alone, I can't bear
to NOT rinse the shovels and metal-ended tools off before I put them
away in the shed.

--
aem sends...
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