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I just ordered a new carburator for my Honda lawn mower engine.

Since placing the order, I tried some Mechanic In A Bottle and it
improved the performance of my mower significantly. It's not 100%, but
if I hadn't already ordered the carb, I probably would wait a while.

Anyway, since the new one is on it's way, I'm going to change it, but
I don't see a need to throw out the old one just yet. I might just
keep it around as an emergency spare.

Should I choose to do that, what's the best way to clean it and store
it to keep "fresh" so if I ever need it (years from now?) it'll still
work?

BTW - Plano Power equipment has a great website for outdoor power
equipment - especially parts for Honda engines and genrators.

http://www.planopower.com/
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On May 23, 12:35*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I just ordered a new carburator for my Honda lawn mower engine.

Since placing the order, I tried some Mechanic In A Bottle and it
improved the performance of my mower significantly. It's not 100%, but
if I hadn't already ordered the carb, I probably would wait a while.

Anyway, since the new one is on it's way, I'm going to change it, but
I don't see a need to throw out the old one just yet. I might just
keep it around as an emergency spare.

Should I choose to do that, what's the best way to clean it and store
it to keep "fresh" so if I ever need it (years from now?) it'll still
work?

BTW - Plano Power equipment has a great website for outdoor power
equipment - especially parts for Honda engines and genrators.

http://www.planopower.com/


You'd be better off just canceliing the order or trying to sell.
Stockpiling parts for a mower is not very smart. Just buy the part
when you need it.

If you really wish to keep a spare then keep the new one.
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On May 23, 1:13*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 23, 12:35*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I just ordered a new carburator for my Honda lawn mower engine.


Since placing the order, I tried some Mechanic In A Bottle and it
improved the performance of my mower significantly. It's not 100%, but
if I hadn't already ordered the carb, I probably would wait a while.


Anyway, since the new one is on it's way, I'm going to change it, but
I don't see a need to throw out the old one just yet. I might just
keep it around as an emergency spare.


Should I choose to do that, what's the best way to clean it and store
it to keep "fresh" so if I ever need it (years from now?) it'll still
work?


BTW - Plano Power equipment has a great website for outdoor power
equipment - especially parts for Honda engines and genrators.


http://www.planopower.com/


You'd be better off just canceliing the order or trying to sell.
Stockpiling parts for a mower is not very smart. *Just buy the part
when you need it.

If you really wish to keep a spare then keep the new one.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


The order has already shipped and the cost of the new carb and gaskets
($20) isn't worth the trouble of trying to re-sell.

As I said, the mower isn't 100% so I'm going to replace the carb
anyway. It would be nice to have a spare just in case the mower has a
problem mid-season and I'm stuck without it for lack of a $15 part.

Besides, if I keep the part on the shelf, I'll never need it. If I
toss it, the new one will fail the day after Waste Management empties
my can. ;-)
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On May 23, 11:35*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I just ordered a new carburator for my Honda lawn mower engine.

Since placing the order, I tried some Mechanic In A Bottle and it
improved the performance of my mower significantly. It's not 100%, but
if I hadn't already ordered the carb, I probably would wait a while.

Anyway, since the new one is on it's way, I'm going to change it, but
I don't see a need to throw out the old one just yet. I might just
keep it around as an emergency spare.

Should I choose to do that, what's the best way to clean it and store
it to keep "fresh" so if I ever need it (years from now?) it'll still
work?

BTW - Plano Power equipment has a great website for outdoor power
equipment - especially parts for Honda engines and genrators.

http://www.planopower.com/


It's probably already coated with whatever it needs to stay shelf
fresh for years.
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On May 23, 3:23*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 10:48:30 -0700 (PDT), Bryan Scholtes









wrote:
On May 23, 11:35*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I just ordered a new carburator for my Honda lawn mower engine.


Since placing the order, I tried some Mechanic In A Bottle and it
improved the performance of my mower significantly. It's not 100%, but
if I hadn't already ordered the carb, I probably would wait a while.


Anyway, since the new one is on it's way, I'm going to change it, but
I don't see a need to throw out the old one just yet. I might just
keep it around as an emergency spare.


Should I choose to do that, what's the best way to clean it and store
it to keep "fresh" so if I ever need it (years from now?) it'll still
work?


BTW - Plano Power equipment has a great website for outdoor power
equipment - especially parts for Honda engines and genrators.


http://www.planopower.com/


It's probably already coated with whatever it needs to stay shelf
fresh for years.


*Just drain the bowl, blow it dry and stick it in a zip-lok bag.


That's just about what I thinking of doing.

Thanks!


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On Mon, 23 May 2011 15:23:06 -0400, clare wrote:
It's probably already coated with whatever it needs to stay shelf fresh
for years.

Just drain the bowl, blow it dry and stick it in a zip-lok bag.


Yeah, that'd be my advice too. Stick a bit of card in there with a label
saying what it is, too, because if you're anything like me you'll end up
with shelves full of stuff like that and it's not always possible to
remember where it came from when you "find" it again in ten years'
time :-)

cheers

Jules

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On May 24, 9:27*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 15:23:06 -0400, clare wrote:
It's probably already coated with whatever it needs to stay shelf fresh
for years.

*Just drain the bowl, blow it dry and stick it in a zip-lok bag.


Yeah, that'd be my advice too. Stick a bit of card in there with a label
saying what it is, too, because if you're anything like me you'll end up
with shelves full of stuff like that and it's not always possible to
remember where it came from when you "find" it again in ten years'
time :-)

cheers

Jules


Thanks...the new carb (and air cleaner, plug, blade and assorted
gaskets) arrived last night, so after one more mow this weekend, I'll
be swapping parts.
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On May 24, 9:32*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 24, 9:27*am, Jules Richardson

wrote:
On Mon, 23 May 2011 15:23:06 -0400, clare wrote:
It's probably already coated with whatever it needs to stay shelf fresh
for years.
*Just drain the bowl, blow it dry and stick it in a zip-lok bag.


Yeah, that'd be my advice too. Stick a bit of card in there with a label
saying what it is, too, because if you're anything like me you'll end up
with shelves full of stuff like that and it's not always possible to
remember where it came from when you "find" it again in ten years'
time :-)


cheers


Jules


Thanks...the new carb (and air cleaner, plug, blade and assorted
gaskets) arrived last night, so after one more mow this weekend, I'll
be swapping parts.


For what it's worth I've never replaced one of those carbs on any of
my gas powered equipment. Simply cleaning it and replacing the
gaskets has always been enough. That yours improved with gas additive
suggests the same.
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On 5/24/2011 8:40 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
....

For what it's worth I've never replaced one of those carbs on any of
my gas powered equipment. Simply cleaning it and replacing the
gaskets has always been enough. That yours improved with gas additive
suggests the same.


I've had to replace them on some equipment but it's generally after 20+
(to maybe 40 or more even) years. Old Zenith and the like will wear
around the throttle shaft so that air inleakage eventually becomes
intolerable and uncontrollable. There's no effective repair as they're
not bushed and unless one has suitable machine shop facilities to do so
oneself, the expense of paying somebody to do the custom bushing is more
than the new carb by quite a bit.

Unfortunately, many of these old guys are now out of production and
replacements aren't available so if I outlive the current versions it'll
be a harder route...

Anything new enough that it had a Honda engine wouldn't be a likely
candidate for needing a carb replacement yet I'd think...

--

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On May 24, 10:29*am, dpb wrote:
On 5/24/2011 8:40 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
...

For what it's worth I've never replaced one of those carbs on any of
my gas powered equipment. *Simply cleaning it and replacing the
gaskets has always been enough. *That yours improved with gas additive
suggests the same.


I've had to replace them on some equipment but it's generally after 20+
(to maybe 40 or more even) years. *Old Zenith and the like will wear
around the throttle shaft so that air inleakage eventually becomes
intolerable and uncontrollable. *There's no effective repair as they're
not bushed and unless one has suitable machine shop facilities to do so
oneself, the expense of paying somebody to do the custom bushing is more
than the new carb by quite a bit.

Unfortunately, many of these old guys are now out of production and
replacements aren't available so if I outlive the current versions it'll
be a harder route...

Anything new enough that it had a Honda engine wouldn't be a likely
candidate for needing a carb replacement yet I'd think...

--


Some fine fella in this group mentioned prioritizing their time. In
another forum dedicated to OPE, I asked if they knew of a site that
had step-by-step instructions for cleaning and tuning a Honda engine,
including the carb.

One long time member mentioned that for the $15 cost of a new carb
from Plano, it's hardly worth taking the old one apart and cleaning/
tuning it. Of all the things I'm pretty good at, small engines,
especially carburetors, isn't one of them.

I called Plano and they said their carbs are just bolt on and run.
When I said I'd like a blade, air cleaner and plug for the same mower,
they gave me a pretty good break off the on-line shipping cost,
essentially throwing in free shipping on the blade, by far the
heaviest item in the order.

So for the amount of time I'd spend cleaning and (trying to) tune the
old carb, I'll just toss the new one on and be done.

Any extra time I spend cleaning and storing the old one will basically
be play time.

How's that for some good old fashioned rationalization? ;-)


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On 5/24/2011 1:12 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

One long time member mentioned that for the $15 cost of a new carb
from Plano,...


Dang!!! That's about 1/3rd to 1/10th the cost of any I've ever dealt
with--don't think could have gotten a replacement when they were new for
that 30 years ago...

--
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On May 24, 2:25*pm, dpb wrote:
On 5/24/2011 1:12 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

One long time member mentioned that for the $15 cost of a new carb
from Plano,...


Dang!!! *That's about 1/3rd to 1/10th the cost of any I've ever dealt
with--don't think could have gotten a replacement when they were new for
that 30 years ago...

--


Check out Plano Power Equipment for all your Honda engine needs.

Of course, I haven't actually tried the carburetor yet, so maybe you
oughta wait a little bit. ;-)
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On 5/24/2011 3:12 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

Check out Plano Power Equipment for all your Honda engine needs.

....

Own nothing that has a Honda engine...closest relative might be the
small mower Kawasaki or the utility tractor Yanmar diesel (which,
needless to say, is carburetor-challenged : )

--
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On May 24, 4:24*pm, dpb wrote:
On 5/24/2011 3:12 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Check out Plano Power Equipment for all your Honda engine needs.


...

Own nothing that has a Honda engine...closest relative might be the
small mower Kawasaki or the utility tractor Yanmar diesel (which,
needless to say, is carburetor-challenged : )

--


Just FYI...

From http://www.planopower.com/parts.html#brands_we_stock

We are proud to carry the following parts lines:

Honda - Stihl® - Echo® - Briggs and Stratton - Tecumseh - Kohler -
Wisconsin - Toro/Wheel Horse Mowers, Tractors, and Professional
Equipment - Lawn Boy Lawnmowers - Maruyama - Little Beaver - Scag -
Snapper Lawnmowers - RedMax - Manco - Trimmer - Tru-Cut - Billy Goat -
EarthWay - Yard Shark - Little Wonder/Mantis - Walbro - Zama -
Tillotson -Whipper-Clipper - Wisconsin - Wisconsin-Robin - Rotary -
Silver Streak - and more.

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On 5/24/2011 3:55 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

Just FYI...

From http://www.planopower.com/parts.html#brands_we_stock

We are proud to carry the following parts lines:

Honda - Stihl® - Echo® - Briggs and Stratton - Tecumseh - Kohler -
Wisconsin -...


I think I have used them for a set of points for the Wisconsin engine in
the JLG manlift--oh, no, now I remember. JLG has an OEM-specific
version so the standard J4V parts didn't fit; had to go to a JLG
distributing dealer at very dear pricing...

Will say they were good in letting me return the ones that didn't fit,
though, so that was good...

--


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On Tue, 24 May 2011 09:29:49 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 5/24/2011 8:40 AM, jamesgangnc wrote: ...

For what it's worth I've never replaced one of those carbs on any of my
gas powered equipment. Simply cleaning it and replacing the gaskets
has always been enough. That yours improved with gas additive suggests
the same.


I've had to replace them on some equipment but it's generally after 20+
(to maybe 40 or more even) years. Old Zenith and the like will wear
around the throttle shaft so that air inleakage eventually becomes
intolerable and uncontrollable.


Yeah, it's getting pretty bad on both the old B+S engines that I have,
which are around 25 years old now. They use tiny grub screws to hold the
throttle stop onto the shaft too, and there's no chance of getting those
out after so many years - removing the stop is the only way of removing
the shaft.

Maybe I'll motivate myself to cut the stop off one sometime (and make
myself a replacement) if I can plan a way of adding bushes to the carb
body (which I expect is what's worn; the shaft's probably not too bad)

cheers

Jules
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On 5/25/2011 7:55 AM, Jules Richardson wrote:
....

Yeah, it's getting pretty bad on both the old B+S engines that I have,
which are around 25 years old now. They use tiny grub screws to hold the
throttle stop onto the shaft too, and there's no chance of getting those
out after so many years - removing the stop is the only way of removing
the shaft.

Maybe I'll motivate myself to cut the stop off one sometime (and make
myself a replacement) if I can plan a way of adding bushes to the carb
body (which I expect is what's worn; the shaft's probably not too bad)

....

It's pretty trivial to grind off the throttle plate screws then remove
them and replace. I've done that in trying to cobble up a fake bushing
w/ some shim stock and other halfbaked goes at it.

The trick is the machining for bushing in the carb body to accurately
bush the shaft. I've wondered if one of the JB Weld or similar products
would be hard enough but figured unlikely so haven't ever tried it. It
wouldn't be bad if one had a milling machine setup (or very, very good
drill press, even) but my press is ok for farm repair heavy stuff but
not up to the task for such precise work. The guy in town wants way
more than they're worth for setup charges.

Indeed, it is the carb body casting that wears; I've mic'ed the shaft on
a couple and they're barely discernible as to wear--it's all in hogging
out the body from the longterm vibration.

--
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On May 25, 9:38*am, dpb wrote:
On 5/25/2011 7:55 AM, Jules Richardson wrote:
...

Yeah, it's getting pretty bad on both the old B+S engines that I have,
which are around 25 years old now. They use tiny grub screws to hold the
throttle stop onto the shaft too, and there's no chance of getting those
out after so many years - removing the stop is the only way of removing
the shaft.


Maybe I'll motivate myself to cut the stop off one sometime (and make
myself a replacement) if I can plan a way of adding bushes to the carb
body (which I expect is what's worn; the shaft's probably not too bad)


...

It's pretty trivial to grind off the throttle plate screws then remove
them and replace. *I've done that in trying to cobble up a fake bushing
w/ some shim stock and other halfbaked goes at it.

The trick is the machining for bushing in the carb body to accurately
bush the shaft. *I've wondered if one of the JB Weld or similar products
would be hard enough but figured unlikely so haven't ever tried it. *It
wouldn't be bad if one had a milling machine setup (or very, very good
drill press, even) but my press is ok for farm repair heavy stuff but
not up to the task for such precise work. *The guy in town wants way
more than they're worth for setup charges.

Indeed, it is the carb body casting that wears; I've mic'ed the shaft on
a couple and they're barely discernible as to wear--it's all in hogging
out the body from the longterm vibration.

--


I've bushed other things myself. Usually you can find a sleeve that
fits the item or can be drilled out to fit the item. Then just drill
the body to fit the sleeve. On a carb I'd also wonder if you could
peen the body such that the hole was smaller again and then clean it
up to fit the shaft with a file. Another possibility would be cutting
a groove in the shaft and fitting an o-ring. Or attaching a thick
washer to the outside that matches the shaft.

I had a throttle shaft go on my $79 blower. I just put a bolt through
the hole. I usually ran it at full speed anyway :-)
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On 5/25/2011 9:22 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
....

I've bushed other things myself. Usually you can find a sleeve that
fits the item or can be drilled out to fit the item. Then just drill
the body to fit the sleeve. On a carb I'd also wonder if you could
peen the body such that the hole was smaller again and then clean it
up to fit the shaft with a file. Another possibility would be cutting
a groove in the shaft and fitting an o-ring. Or attaching a thick
washer to the outside that matches the shaft.

....

The principle is simple, agreed....

The issue I've had was that the toolset at hand is much more adapted to
stuff of the much heavier persuasion than a little single-cylinder carb
bowl since most work is farm equipment size. I wasn't set to try to
accurately align the carb for drilling out the bowl sides and keep
alignment to avoid potential for throttle to then bind if not quite true.

I kinda' like the idea of the exterior patch idea, that has some
possibilities. The one I last replaced was so far hogged out there
would be no hope of peening sufficient material to fill the gap, if I
could have kept it in there there was actually enough space I got a
chunk of shimstock around the shaft at one point--it help briefly, but
vibrated out after a couple uses.

--
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On Wed, 25 May 2011 08:38:56 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 5/25/2011 7:55 AM, Jules Richardson wrote: ...

Yeah, it's getting pretty bad on both the old B+S engines that I have,
which are around 25 years old now. They use tiny grub screws to hold
the throttle stop onto the shaft too, and there's no chance of getting
those out after so many years - removing the stop is the only way of
removing the shaft.

Maybe I'll motivate myself to cut the stop off one sometime (and make
myself a replacement) if I can plan a way of adding bushes to the carb
body (which I expect is what's worn; the shaft's probably not too bad)

...

It's pretty trivial to grind off the throttle plate screws then remove
them and replace.


Ahh, this is just the screw holding the stop / idle speed adjustment
which sits externally to the carb - whether the throttle plate screws
(although I think it might only have one, without going to look) are also
snafu is another matter :-) I don't think I could get the stop off
without completely trashing it, but it shouldn't be too hard to make
something functionally equivalent anyway.

The trick is the machining for bushing in the carb body to accurately
bush the shaft.


Yes, that'd be my worry, too, getting it all aligned properly.

I've wondered if one of the JB Weld or similar products
would be hard enough but figured unlikely so haven't ever tried it. It
wouldn't be bad if one had a milling machine setup (or very, very good
drill press, even) but my press is ok for farm repair heavy stuff but
not up to the task for such precise work.


Yep, same deal here. Maybe drilling slightly larger than needed and then
epoxying the new sleeves in place (using some kind of rig to keep it
aligned while drying) might work. Modern epoxies seem to be pretty robust
- I even filled some quite serious scoring in the cylinder bore of my
"junk" engine with the stuff, and so far it's taking the oil and heat and
having piston rings sliding past it just fine (I tried it more for
chuckles than anything, but it's really surprised me how well it's
holding up). If it can take that kind of abuse, it'd likely last in a
carb body, too.


Indeed, it is the carb body casting that wears; I've mic'ed the shaft on
a couple and they're barely discernible as to wear--it's all in hogging
out the body from the longterm vibration.


Yeah, I don't think that whatever metal they're cast from is particularly
hard, so I'm not surprised that they wear long before the shafts do. But
then 25 years isn't bad for something that was probably only designed to
last a fraction of that, either.

cheers

Jules


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On Mon, 23 May 2011 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On May 23, 1:13*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 23, 12:35*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I just ordered a new carburator for my Honda lawn mower engine.


Since placing the order, I tried some Mechanic In A Bottle and it
improved the performance of my mower significantly. It's not 100%, but
if I hadn't already ordered the carb, I probably would wait a while.


Anyway, since the new one is on it's way, I'm going to change it, but
I don't see a need to throw out the old one just yet. I might just
keep it around as an emergency spare.


Should I choose to do that, what's the best way to clean it and store
it to keep "fresh" so if I ever need it (years from now?) it'll still
work?


BTW - Plano Power equipment has a great website for outdoor power
equipment - especially parts for Honda engines and genrators.


http://www.planopower.com/


You'd be better off just canceliing the order or trying to sell.
Stockpiling parts for a mower is not very smart. *Just buy the part
when you need it.

If you really wish to keep a spare then keep the new one.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


The order has already shipped and the cost of the new carb and gaskets
($20) isn't worth the trouble of trying to re-sell.

As I said, the mower isn't 100% so I'm going to replace the carb
anyway. It would be nice to have a spare just in case the mower has a
problem mid-season and I'm stuck without it for lack of a $15 part.

Besides, if I keep the part on the shelf, I'll never need it. If I
toss it, the new one will fail the day after Waste Management empties
my can. ;-)


What you could do is buy a junk carburetor and put that in the box the
new one came in and throw it away. That may fool the old carb into
failing the next day.

My mother had a Zenith tv, very nice, 1975, and it broke
intermittently and the repairman said 7 tubes were bad and it was 100
or 150 to repair it. That was a lot in 1975 so she waited for me to
come. Every time I came to visit, it worked, and I'm not clever
enough to fix it then. Finally I went home without telling my mother
I was coming and I caught the tv not working and went straight to
fixing it before it knew I was there.

It turned out, one tube didn't light up, the socket was loose, I bent
the tab-lettes on one pin to make the socket tighter and it worked for
years after that.

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On Wed, 25 May 2011 07:22:40 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
I've bushed other things myself. Usually you can find a sleeve that
fits the item or can be drilled out to fit the item. Then just drill
the body to fit the sleeve. On a carb I'd also wonder if you could peen
the body such that the hole was smaller again and then clean it up to
fit the shaft with a file. Another possibility would be cutting a
groove in the shaft and fitting an o-ring. Or attaching a thick washer
to the outside that matches the shaft.


Nice ideas. I'd wondered about the 'washer trick' myself in the past -
that'd probably be the first thing I'd try as it should be realtively
easy; if the throttle stops weren't seized onto the shafts of the carbs
that I have, it's be a ten minute job to try it. Anything that reduces
the air leak will help, after all.

Hadn't thought of peening. As I said in my other post, the metal on these
carbs seem to be pretty soft, so there's a good chance that would be
possible.

O-ring - not sure there. I bet the holes wear oval due to the forces on
them, so maybe that would either be too tight or not seal nicely.

I had a throttle shaft go on my $79 blower. I just put a bolt through
the hole. I usually ran it at full speed anyway :-)


Ha ha! :-)

cheers

Jules
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Default Storing an old carburator

On Thu, 26 May 2011 00:13:55 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

On Wed, 25 May 2011 08:38:56 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 5/25/2011 7:55 AM, Jules Richardson wrote: ...

Yeah, it's getting pretty bad on both the old B+S engines that I have,
which are around 25 years old now. They use tiny grub screws to hold
the throttle stop onto the shaft too, and there's no chance of getting
those out after so many years - removing the stop is the only way of
removing the shaft.

Maybe I'll motivate myself to cut the stop off one sometime (and make
myself a replacement) if I can plan a way of adding bushes to the carb
body (which I expect is what's worn; the shaft's probably not too bad)

...

It's pretty trivial to grind off the throttle plate screws then remove
them and replace.


Ahh, this is just the screw holding the stop / idle speed adjustment
which sits externally to the carb - whether the throttle plate screws
(although I think it might only have one, without going to look) are also
snafu is another matter :-) I don't think I could get the stop off
without completely trashing it, but it shouldn't be too hard to make
something functionally equivalent anyway.

The trick is the machining for bushing in the carb body to accurately
bush the shaft.


Yes, that'd be my worry, too, getting it all aligned properly.

I've wondered if one of the JB Weld or similar products
would be hard enough but figured unlikely so haven't ever tried it. It
wouldn't be bad if one had a milling machine setup (or very, very good
drill press, even) but my press is ok for farm repair heavy stuff but
not up to the task for such precise work.


Yep, same deal here. Maybe drilling slightly larger than needed and then
epoxying the new sleeves in place (using some kind of rig to keep it
aligned while drying) might work. Modern epoxies seem to be pretty robust
- I even filled some quite serious scoring in the cylinder bore of my
"junk" engine with the stuff, and so far it's taking the oil and heat and
having piston rings sliding past it just fine (I tried it more for
chuckles than anything, but it's really surprised me how well it's
holding up). If it can take that kind of abuse, it'd likely last in a
carb body, too.


Indeed, it is the carb body casting that wears; I've mic'ed the shaft on
a couple and they're barely discernible as to wear--it's all in hogging
out the body from the longterm vibration.


Yeah, I don't think that whatever metal they're cast from is particularly
hard, so I'm not surprised that they wear long before the shafts do. But
then 25 years isn't bad for something that was probably only designed to
last a fraction of that, either.

cheers

Jules

The carb bodies are "generally" die cast zinc. The best way to
re-bush one is to take a good one and fixture it on the mill, using an
end-mill, reamer, or transfer punch as a locator, then put the old
carb in the fixture with a larger end mill or reamer, then press in
new bushings and mill/ream back to proper size , again in the fixture.
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On Mon, 23 May 2011 09:35:52 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I just ordered a new carburator for my Honda lawn mower engine.

Since placing the order, I tried some Mechanic In A Bottle and it
improved the performance of my mower significantly. It's not 100%, but
if I hadn't already ordered the carb, I probably would wait a while.

Anyway, since the new one is on it's way, I'm going to change it, but
I don't see a need to throw out the old one just yet. I might just
keep it around as an emergency spare.

Should I choose to do that, what's the best way to clean it and store
it to keep "fresh" so if I ever need it (years from now?) it'll still
work?

BTW - Plano Power equipment has a great website for outdoor power
equipment - especially parts for Honda engines and genrators.

http://www.planopower.com/



I've done this with automotive carbs. I hosed them out good with spray
carb cleaner, let them dry thoroughly, then stored them in a closed up
cardboard box so they stay clean.
FWIW
YMMV
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