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#1
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Toggle switches
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie |
#2
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Toggle switches
"JIMMIE" wrote in message ... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie ** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3 way operation, but they won't work for 4 way |
#3
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Toggle switches
On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote:
"JIMMIE" wrote in message ... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. These might be harder to hit on your way out of the room, or as easy to hit but harder to flip. But maybe it will cause you to slow down. Jimmie ** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3 way operation, but they won't work for 4 way I think they will. I still use a DPDT slide switch on a volt meter to change polarity for the leads. |
#4
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Toggle switches
On May 15, 2:07*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote: "JIMMIE" wrote in message .... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie ** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3 way operation, but they won't work for 4 way Why not? All you have to do is cross connect the switched contacts. I have my air compressor set up that way as we speak using low voltage but the logic is the same. I have 5 ports with a switch at each location.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - My first thought was along the lines of what RBM said, ie as long as the switches are rated for the voltage/current, they should be OK. But then upon thinking about it a little more, isn't there the issue of grounding? Normal wall switches have grounding lugs, while the kind of toggle switches Jimmie is talking about do not. And most of them also have metal parts protruding beyond the cover plate. Isn't that a code issue? |
#5
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Toggle switches
wrote in message ... On May 15, 2:07 pm, wrote: On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote: "JIMMIE" wrote in message ... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie ** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3 way operation, but they won't work for 4 way Why not? All you have to do is cross connect the switched contacts. I have my air compressor set up that way as we speak using low voltage but the logic is the same. I have 5 ports with a switch at each location.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - My first thought was along the lines of what RBM said, ie as long as the switches are rated for the voltage/current, they should be OK. But then upon thinking about it a little more, isn't there the issue of grounding? Normal wall switches have grounding lugs, while the kind of toggle switches Jimmie is talking about do not. And most of them also have metal parts protruding beyond the cover plate. Isn't that a code issue? Not an issue if the boxes are metal. If they're plastic, the switches would need a ground connection |
#6
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Toggle switches
wrote in message ... On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote: "JIMMIE" wrote in message ... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie ** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3 way operation, but they won't work for 4 way http://gfretwell.com/electrical/Reversing%20sw.jpg I'm looking at your diagram, and I'm thinking "why do you have six terminals?" My mistake, he did write "double throw" |
#7
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Toggle switches
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. *Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch. Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that you intend. If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C). |
#8
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Toggle switches
On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie WHAT'S NEXT, THE FRANKENSTEIN MACHINE? BOOWAHAHAHAHAHAHA ! TGITM |
#9
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Toggle switches
"John Grabowski" wrote in message ... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. *Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch. Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that you intend. If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C). ** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify anything regarding 3ways and 4ways? |
#10
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Toggle switches
On May 15, 2:00*pm, mm wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote: "JIMMIE" wrote in message .... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. These might be harder to hit on your way out of the room, or as easy to hit but harder to flip. * But maybe it will cause you to slow down. Jimmie ** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3 way operation, but they won't work for 4 way I think they will. *I still use a DPDT slide switch on a volt meter to change polarity for the leads. They work fine for 4 way. Connect the NCs to the NOs. The wiring will look like an X on the back of the switch . Connect one pair of traveler wires to the C terminals conect the ohter pair to either the NC or NO terminals, doesnt matter .just as long as one wire is on each leg of the X. Jimmie |
#11
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Toggle switches
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. *Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch. Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that you intend. If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C). ** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify anything regarding 3ways and 4ways? *Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and that article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. It doesn't matter what switch type it is. A neutral conductor must be present. It is because of the variety of electronic controls available now that require a neutral to operate. Apparently when there is no neutral available, people have been using the grounding conductor. There are some exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in adding a neutral in the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and another conductor could be pulled through at a later date. For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at the other end, the neutral is of course carried through. However if you want to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. I suggested in the class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution. I will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept. NJ has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some things as being required after much discussion publicly and privately. |
#12
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Toggle switches
"John Grabowski" wrote in message ... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. *Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch. Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that you intend. If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C). ** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify anything regarding 3ways and 4ways? *Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and that article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. It doesn't matter what switch type it is. A neutral conductor must be present. It is because of the variety of electronic controls available now that require a neutral to operate. Apparently when there is no neutral available, people have been using the grounding conductor. There are some exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in adding a neutral in the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and another conductor could be pulled through at a later date. For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at the other end, the neutral is of course carried through. However if you want to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. I suggested in the class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution. I will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept. NJ has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some things as being required after much discussion publicly and privately. Most of the new electronic devices I've seen lately, that replace 3way and 4way switches, don't wire in the same fashion as the switches did, and they only need a neutral at one end, but who knows what's on the horizon. Here is NY we just started using the 2008 code a few months ago, so I have years before I have to worry about it |
#13
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Toggle switches
On May 15, 5:30*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"John Grabowski" wrote in message ... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. *Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. *This is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch. Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if approved for the purpose. *There should be a UL or other recognized testing laboratory label on it. *You can contact the manufacturer to find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that you intend. If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C).. ** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify anything regarding 3ways and 4ways? *Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and that article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. *It doesn't matter what switch type it is. *A neutral conductor must be present. *It is because of the variety of electronic controls available now that require a neutral to operate. *Apparently when there is no neutral available, people have been using the grounding conductor. *There are some exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in adding a neutral in the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and another conductor could be pulled through at a later date. For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at the other end, the neutral is of course carried through. *However if you want to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. *I suggested in the class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution. *I will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept. *NJ has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some things as being required after much discussion publicly and privately. Most of the new electronic devices I've seen lately, that replace 3way and 4way switches, don't wire in the same fashion as the switches did, and they only need a neutral at one end, but who knows what's on the horizon. Here is NY we just started using the 2008 code a few months ago, so I have years before I have to worry about it GOOD THREAD..THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME & $HARING. TGITM PATECUM |
#14
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Toggle switches
On May 15, 3:40*pm, The Ghost in The Machine
wrote: On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote: For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie WHAT'S NEXT, THE FRANKENSTEIN MACHINE? BOOWAHAHAHAHAHAHA ! TGITM Close |
#15
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Toggle switches
On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie YOU CAN USE AVAILABLE COVER PLATES USED FOR BELL BUTTONS TO FIT THE BAT TOGGLE SWITCHES ON THE BOX AS YOU WOULD A REGULAR SWITCH PLATE.....IT's UP TO YOU HÈR DOCTOR TGITM |
#16
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Toggle switches
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. *Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch. Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that you intend. If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C). ** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify anything regarding 3ways and 4ways? *Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and that article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. It doesn't matter what switch type it is. A neutral conductor must be present. It is because of the variety of electronic controls available now that require a neutral to operate. Apparently when there is no neutral available, people have been using the grounding conductor. There are some exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in adding a neutral in the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and another conductor could be pulled through at a later date. For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at the other end, the neutral is of course carried through. However if you want to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. I suggested in the class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution. I will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept. NJ has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some things as being required after much discussion publicly and privately. Most of the new electronic devices I've seen lately, that replace 3way and 4way switches, don't wire in the same fashion as the switches did, and they only need a neutral at one end, but who knows what's on the horizon. Here is NY we just started using the 2008 code a few months ago, so I have years before I have to worry about it *Another big change which becomes effective January 1, 2014 is the requirement for replacement receptacles. 2011 requires that receptacles being replaced in living areas be replaced with tamper resistant receptacles. In 2014 they will need to be arc fault circuit interrupter tamper resistant receptacles. Article 406.4(D)(4) Can't wait to see the price of those. I heard NYC is using the 2005 NEC. |
#17
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Toggle switches
"John Grabowski" wrote in message ... For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. *Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch. Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that you intend. If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C). ** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify anything regarding 3ways and 4ways? *Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and that article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. It doesn't matter what switch type it is. A neutral conductor must be present. It is because of the variety of electronic controls available now that require a neutral to operate. Apparently when there is no neutral available, people have been using the grounding conductor. There are some exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in adding a neutral in the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and another conductor could be pulled through at a later date. For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at the other end, the neutral is of course carried through. However if you want to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. I suggested in the class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution. I will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept. NJ has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some things as being required after much discussion publicly and privately. Most of the new electronic devices I've seen lately, that replace 3way and 4way switches, don't wire in the same fashion as the switches did, and they only need a neutral at one end, but who knows what's on the horizon. Here is NY we just started using the 2008 code a few months ago, so I have years before I have to worry about it *Another big change which becomes effective January 1, 2014 is the requirement for replacement receptacles. 2011 requires that receptacles being replaced in living areas be replaced with tamper resistant receptacles. In 2014 they will need to be arc fault circuit interrupter tamper resistant receptacles. Article 406.4(D)(4) Can't wait to see the price of those. I heard NYC is using the 2005 NEC. ** I suppose that makes sense. The manufacturers need time to deplete existing stocks, as do suppliers, but I would imagine that some really large projects in NYC take years to complete, so they'd be allowed to use the original plans with whatever the code du jour was when the project started |
#18
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Toggle switches
On May 15, 3:40*pm, The Ghost in The Machine
wrote: On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote: For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie WHAT'S NEXT, THE FRANKENSTEIN MACHINE? BOOWAHAHAHAHAHAHA ! TGITM Well at least a couple of plasma globes and a fog machine. Jimmie |
#19
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Toggle switches
On May 15, 7:13*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
On May 15, 3:40*pm, The Ghost in The Machine wrote: On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote: For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie WHAT'S NEXT, THE FRANKENSTEIN MACHINE? BOOWAHAHAHAHAHAHA ! TGITM Well at least a couple of plasma globes and a fog machine. Jimmie PARTY TIME. BOOGIE DOWN. MAKE IT HOT........PUT A REAL GIANT SIZED BLADE SWITCH LIKE HÈR DOCTOR USED BOOWAHAHAHAHAHA ;-0 TGITM |
#20
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Toggle switches
My first thought was along the lines of what RBM said, ie as long as the switches are rated for the voltage/current, they should be OK. But then upon thinking about it a little more, isn't there the issue of grounding? Normal wall switches have grounding lugs, while the kind of toggle switches Jimmie is talking about do not. And most of them also have metal parts protruding beyond the cover plate. Isn't that a code issue? Use one of these: http://www.newark.com/productimages/...rd/4385966.jpg |
#21
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Toggle switches
In ,
JIMMIE typed: For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie As long as they're UL or equvalently recognized (not approved - doesn't apply to components) you should be fine even with electrical inspectors. To make sure, give your local code enforcement office a call; they are the final authority on such matters. You'll need the switch specs too. HTH, Twayne` |
#22
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Toggle switches
On May 17, 9:19*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 05/17/2011 12:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 17 May 2011 11:46:22 -0400, "Twayne" *wrote: , *typed: For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie As long as they're UL or equvalently recognized (not approved - doesn't apply to components) you should be fine even with electrical inspectors. To make sure, give your local code enforcement office a call; they are the final authority on such matters. You'll need the switch specs too. HTH, Twayne` Hubbel/Raco has switches that are U/L listed (not just recognized) and that is generally the test with your AHJ. This still does not mean he will "approve" their use in this application. (as Twayne says) They really like to see things done the way they usually see things done. I am guessing you are not going to see an inspector anyway so just try to be safe. Late to the party, but once upon a time they were used as the OP describes... I remember an old girlfriend's house in Pittsburgh which had brass switch plates (the nice thick pressed kind... probably .030 or .040 with nice crisp bevels) with brass toggles in the center of them for light switches. *they all still worked... nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Like the idea of using brass. Jimmie |
#23
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Toggle switches
On May 18, 7:12*am, JIMMIE wrote:
On May 17, 9:19*pm, Nate Nagel wrote: On 05/17/2011 12:22 PM, wrote: On Tue, 17 May 2011 11:46:22 -0400, "Twayne" *wrote: , *typed: For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation. Jimmie As long as they're UL or equvalently recognized (not approved - doesn't apply to components) you should be fine even with electrical inspectors. To make sure, give your local code enforcement office a call; they are the final authority on such matters. You'll need the switch specs too. HTH, Twayne` Hubbel/Raco has switches that are U/L listed (not just recognized) and that is generally the test with your AHJ. This still does not mean he will "approve" their use in this application. (as Twayne says) They really like to see things done the way they usually see things done. I am guessing you are not going to see an inspector anyway so just try to be safe. Late to the party, but once upon a time they were used as the OP describes... I remember an old girlfriend's house in Pittsburgh which had brass switch plates (the nice thick pressed kind... probably .030 or .040 with nice crisp bevels) with brass toggles in the center of them for light switches. *they all still worked... nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel-Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Like the idea of using brass. Jimmie JIMMIE CRACK CORN, SEEM LIKE NOBODY CARES BTW BE CAREFUL WIT THAT ROOSTER UP THERE, HE THINKS HES A EAGLE. BOOWAHAHAHAHA }; o TGITM |
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