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Default Toggle switches

For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.

Jimmie
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Default Toggle switches


"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.

Jimmie


** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and
amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3
way operation, but they won't work for 4 way


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Default Toggle switches

On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.


These might be harder to hit on your way out of the room, or as easy
to hit but harder to flip. But maybe it will cause you to slow down.

Jimmie


** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and
amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3
way operation, but they won't work for 4 way


I think they will. I still use a DPDT slide switch on a volt meter to
change polarity for the leads.


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Default Toggle switches

On May 15, 2:07*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"JIMMIE" wrote in message
....
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.


Jimmie


** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and
amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3
way operation, but they won't work for 4 way


Why not? All you have to do is cross connect the switched contacts. I
have my air compressor set up that way as we speak using low voltage
but the logic is the same. I have 5 ports with a switch at each
location.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


My first thought was along the lines of what RBM said, ie as long as
the switches are rated for the voltage/current, they should be OK.
But then upon thinking about it a little more, isn't there the issue
of grounding? Normal wall switches have grounding lugs, while
the kind of toggle switches Jimmie is talking about do not. And
most of them also have metal parts protruding beyond the cover
plate. Isn't that a code issue?
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Default Toggle switches


wrote in message
...
On May 15, 2:07 pm, wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.


Jimmie


** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage
and
amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole
and 3
way operation, but they won't work for 4 way


Why not? All you have to do is cross connect the switched contacts. I
have my air compressor set up that way as we speak using low voltage
but the logic is the same. I have 5 ports with a switch at each
location.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


My first thought was along the lines of what RBM said, ie as long as
the switches are rated for the voltage/current, they should be OK.
But then upon thinking about it a little more, isn't there the issue
of grounding? Normal wall switches have grounding lugs, while
the kind of toggle switches Jimmie is talking about do not. And
most of them also have metal parts protruding beyond the cover
plate. Isn't that a code issue?

Not an issue if the boxes are metal. If they're plastic, the switches would
need a ground connection




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Default Toggle switches


wrote in message
...
On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.

Jimmie


** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and
amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and
3
way operation, but they won't work for 4 way

http://gfretwell.com/electrical/Reversing%20sw.jpg


I'm looking at your diagram, and I'm thinking "why do you have six
terminals?" My mistake, he did write "double throw"


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Default Toggle switches

For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.



*Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This is
usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch.

Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if
approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized testing
laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find out if
they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that you
intend.

If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code requires
a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C).

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Default Toggle switches

On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.

Jimmie


WHAT'S NEXT, THE FRANKENSTEIN MACHINE?
BOOWAHAHAHAHAHAHA !
TGITM
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Default Toggle switches


"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.



*Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This is
usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch.

Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if
approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized
testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find
out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that
you intend.

If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code
requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C).


** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify
anything regarding 3ways and 4ways?



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Default Toggle switches

On May 15, 2:00*pm, mm wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 13:38:44 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"JIMMIE" wrote in message
....
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.


These might be harder to hit on your way out of the room, or as easy
to hit but harder to flip. * But maybe it will cause you to slow down.

Jimmie


** I would think that as long as they are rated for the proper voltage and
amperage, they should be fine. Those switches are fine for single pole and 3
way operation, but they won't work for 4 way


I think they will. *I still use a DPDT slide switch on a volt meter to
change polarity for the leads.


They work fine for 4 way. Connect the NCs to the NOs. The wiring will
look like an X on the back of the switch . Connect one pair of
traveler wires to the C terminals conect the ohter pair to either the
NC or NO terminals, doesnt matter .just as long as one wire is on each
leg of the X.

Jimmie


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Default Toggle switches

For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.




*Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This
is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch.

Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if
approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized
testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to find
out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose that
you intend.

If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code
requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C).




** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify
anything regarding 3ways and 4ways?



*Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and that
article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. It doesn't
matter what switch type it is. A neutral conductor must be present. It is
because of the variety of electronic controls available now that require a
neutral to operate. Apparently when there is no neutral available, people
have been using the grounding conductor. There are some exceptions, but
they are as result of accessibility in adding a neutral in the future such
as if the wiring was in conduit and another conductor could be pulled
through at a later date.

For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at the
other end, the neutral is of course carried through. However if you want to
bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way switch,
you will need four conductors plus ground. I suggested in the class that
using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution. I will have to
run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept. NJ has not yet
adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some things as being
required after much discussion publicly and privately.

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Default Toggle switches


"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.




*Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This
is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch.

Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if
approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized
testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to
find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose
that you intend.

If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code
requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C).




** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify
anything regarding 3ways and 4ways?



*Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and that
article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. It doesn't
matter what switch type it is. A neutral conductor must be present. It
is because of the variety of electronic controls available now that
require a neutral to operate. Apparently when there is no neutral
available, people have been using the grounding conductor. There are some
exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in adding a neutral in
the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and another conductor
could be pulled through at a later date.

For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at the
other end, the neutral is of course carried through. However if you want
to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way
switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. I suggested in the
class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution. I
will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept. NJ
has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some
things as being required after much discussion publicly and privately.


Most of the new electronic devices I've seen lately, that replace 3way and
4way switches, don't wire in the same fashion as the switches did, and they
only need a neutral at one end, but who knows what's on the horizon.
Here is NY we just started using the 2008 code a few months ago, so I have
years before I have to worry about it



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Default Toggle switches

On May 15, 5:30*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"John Grabowski" wrote in message

...





For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.


*Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. *This
is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch.


Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if
approved for the purpose. *There should be a UL or other recognized
testing laboratory label on it. *You can contact the manufacturer to
find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the purpose
that you intend.


If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code
requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C)..


** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify
anything regarding 3ways and 4ways?


*Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and that
article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. *It doesn't
matter what switch type it is. *A neutral conductor must be present. *It
is because of the variety of electronic controls available now that
require a neutral to operate. *Apparently when there is no neutral
available, people have been using the grounding conductor. *There are some
exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in adding a neutral in
the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and another conductor
could be pulled through at a later date.


For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at the
other end, the neutral is of course carried through. *However if you want
to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way
switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. *I suggested in the
class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution. *I
will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept. *NJ
has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some
things as being required after much discussion publicly and privately.


Most of the new electronic devices I've seen lately, that replace 3way and
4way switches, don't wire in the same fashion as the switches did, and they
only need a neutral at one end, but who knows what's on the horizon.
Here is NY we just started using the 2008 code a few months ago, so I have
years before I have to worry about it





GOOD THREAD..THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME & $HARING.

TGITM
PATECUM
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Default Toggle switches

On May 15, 3:40*pm, The Ghost in The Machine
wrote:
On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote:

For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.


Jimmie


WHAT'S NEXT, THE FRANKENSTEIN MACHINE?
BOOWAHAHAHAHAHAHA !
TGITM


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Default Toggle switches

On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.

Jimmie


YOU CAN USE AVAILABLE COVER PLATES USED FOR BELL BUTTONS TO FIT THE
BAT TOGGLE SWITCHES ON THE BOX AS YOU WOULD A REGULAR SWITCH
PLATE.....IT's UP TO YOU HÈR DOCTOR
TGITM


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Default Toggle switches

For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.




*Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded. This
is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch.

Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if
approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized
testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to
find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the
purpose that you intend.

If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code
requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C).




** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify
anything regarding 3ways and 4ways?



*Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and
that article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. It
doesn't matter what switch type it is. A neutral conductor must be
present. It is because of the variety of electronic controls available
now that require a neutral to operate. Apparently when there is no
neutral available, people have been using the grounding conductor. There
are some exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in adding a
neutral in the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and another
conductor could be pulled through at a later date.

For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at
the other end, the neutral is of course carried through. However if you
want to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three way
switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. I suggested in the
class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a solution.
I will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they will accept.
NJ has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will eliminate some
things as being required after much discussion publicly and privately.




Most of the new electronic devices I've seen lately, that replace 3way and
4way switches, don't wire in the same fashion as the switches did, and
they only need a neutral at one end, but who knows what's on the horizon.
Here is NY we just started using the 2008 code a few months ago, so I have
years before I have to worry about it



*Another big change which becomes effective January 1, 2014 is the
requirement for replacement receptacles. 2011 requires that receptacles
being replaced in living areas be replaced with tamper resistant
receptacles. In 2014 they will need to be arc fault circuit interrupter
tamper resistant receptacles. Article 406.4(D)(4) Can't wait to see the
price of those.

I heard NYC is using the 2005 NEC.

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Default Toggle switches


"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these code compliant if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I
was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.



*Article 404.9(B) requires that the metal wall plate be grounded.
This is usually accomplished through the grounding of the switch.

Article 110.2 requires that the equipment shall be acceptable only if
approved for the purpose. There should be a UL or other recognized
testing laboratory label on it. You can contact the manufacturer to
find out if they have submitted the switches for testing for the
purpose that you intend.

If you are installing new wiring, the 2011 National Electrical Code
requires a neutral conductor at each switch location Article 404.2(C).



** John, does the new article on neutrals at switch locations, specify
anything regarding 3ways and 4ways?


*Roy I just had my mandatory 9 hours of code class this past week and
that article was a heated discussion because of 3-ways and 4-ways. It
doesn't matter what switch type it is. A neutral conductor must be
present. It is because of the variety of electronic controls available
now that require a neutral to operate. Apparently when there is no
neutral available, people have been using the grounding conductor.
There are some exceptions, but they are as result of accessibility in
adding a neutral in the future such as if the wiring was in conduit and
another conductor could be pulled through at a later date.

For a three-way set up where the load is at one end and the line is at
the other end, the neutral is of course carried through. However if you
want to bring everything into one box and just extend out for a three
way switch, you will need four conductors plus ground. I suggested in
the class that using 14-2-2 with one conductor relabeled may be a
solution. I will have to run it by a few inspectors to see what they
will accept. NJ has not yet adopted the 2011 code and they usually will
eliminate some things as being required after much discussion publicly
and privately.




Most of the new electronic devices I've seen lately, that replace 3way
and 4way switches, don't wire in the same fashion as the switches did,
and they only need a neutral at one end, but who knows what's on the
horizon.
Here is NY we just started using the 2008 code a few months ago, so I
have years before I have to worry about it



*Another big change which becomes effective January 1, 2014 is the
requirement for replacement receptacles. 2011 requires that receptacles
being replaced in living areas be replaced with tamper resistant
receptacles. In 2014 they will need to be arc fault circuit interrupter
tamper resistant receptacles. Article 406.4(D)(4) Can't wait to see the
price of those.

I heard NYC is using the 2005 NEC.


** I suppose that makes sense. The manufacturers need time to deplete
existing stocks, as do suppliers, but I would imagine that some really large
projects in NYC take years to complete, so they'd be allowed to use the
original plans with whatever the code du jour was when the project started



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Default Toggle switches

On May 15, 3:40*pm, The Ghost in The Machine
wrote:
On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote:

For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.


Jimmie


WHAT'S NEXT, THE FRANKENSTEIN MACHINE?
BOOWAHAHAHAHAHAHA !
TGITM


Well at least a couple of plasma globes and a fog machine.

Jimmie
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Default Toggle switches

On May 15, 7:13*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
On May 15, 3:40*pm, The Ghost in The Machine
wrote:

On May 15, 1:29*pm, JIMMIE wrote:


For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as those
commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as light switches in a
room. Plan is to make my own cover plates from brushed aluminum. What
would the requirements be to make these *code compliant *if that is
possible, The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I was
planing on using these switches as for both the single switch, 3 way
and 4 way operation.


Jimmie


WHAT'S NEXT, THE FRANKENSTEIN MACHINE?
BOOWAHAHAHAHAHAHA !
TGITM


Well at least a couple of plasma globes and a fog machine.

Jimmie


PARTY TIME.
BOOGIE DOWN.
MAKE IT HOT........PUT A REAL GIANT SIZED BLADE SWITCH LIKE HÈR DOCTOR
USED
BOOWAHAHAHAHAHA ;-0
TGITM
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Default Toggle switches


My first thought was along the lines of what RBM said, ie as long as
the switches are rated for the voltage/current, they should be OK.
But then upon thinking about it a little more, isn't there the issue
of grounding? Normal wall switches have grounding lugs, while
the kind of toggle switches Jimmie is talking about do not. And
most of them also have metal parts protruding beyond the cover
plate. Isn't that a code issue?


Use one of these:

http://www.newark.com/productimages/...rd/4385966.jpg


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Default Toggle switches

In ,
JIMMIE typed:
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as
those commonly used on electronic equipment for use as
light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover
plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements
be to make these code compliant if that is possible,
The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I
was planing on using these switches as for both the
single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation.

Jimmie


As long as they're UL or equvalently recognized (not approved - doesn't
apply to components) you should be fine even with electrical inspectors. To
make sure, give your local code enforcement office a call; they are the
final authority on such matters. You'll need the switch specs too.

HTH,

Twayne`


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Default Toggle switches

On May 17, 9:19*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 05/17/2011 12:22 PM, wrote:





On Tue, 17 May 2011 11:46:22 -0400, "Twayne"
*wrote:


,
*typed:
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as
those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as
light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover
plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements
be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible,
The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I
was planing on using these switches as for both the
single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation.


Jimmie


As long as they're UL or equvalently recognized (not approved - doesn't
apply to components) you should be fine even with electrical inspectors. To
make sure, give your local code enforcement office a call; they are the
final authority on such matters. You'll need the switch specs too.


HTH,


Twayne`


Hubbel/Raco has switches that are U/L listed (not just recognized) and
that is generally the test with your AHJ. This still does not mean he
will "approve" their use in this application. (as Twayne says) They
really like to see things done the way they usually see things done.
I am guessing you are not going to see an inspector anyway so just try
to be safe.


Late to the party, but once upon a time they were used as the OP
describes... I remember an old girlfriend's house in Pittsburgh which
had brass switch plates (the nice thick pressed kind... probably .030 or
.040 with nice crisp bevels) with brass toggles in the center of them
for light switches. *they all still worked...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Like the idea of using brass.

Jimmie
  #23   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 679
Default Toggle switches

On May 18, 7:12*am, JIMMIE wrote:
On May 17, 9:19*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:





On 05/17/2011 12:22 PM, wrote:


On Tue, 17 May 2011 11:46:22 -0400, "Twayne"
*wrote:


,
*typed:
For aesthetic purposes I wanted to use toggle switches as
those commonly used on electronic equipment for use *as
light switches in a room. Plan is to make my own cover
plates from brushed aluminum. What would the requirements
be to make these *code compliant *if that is possible,
The switches I have are rated for 120VAC @ 20 amp DPDT I
was planing on using these switches as for both the
single switch, 3 way and 4 way operation.


Jimmie


As long as they're UL or equvalently recognized (not approved - doesn't
apply to components) you should be fine even with electrical inspectors. To
make sure, give your local code enforcement office a call; they are the
final authority on such matters. You'll need the switch specs too.


HTH,


Twayne`


Hubbel/Raco has switches that are U/L listed (not just recognized) and
that is generally the test with your AHJ. This still does not mean he
will "approve" their use in this application. (as Twayne says) They
really like to see things done the way they usually see things done.
I am guessing you are not going to see an inspector anyway so just try
to be safe.


Late to the party, but once upon a time they were used as the OP
describes... I remember an old girlfriend's house in Pittsburgh which
had brass switch plates (the nice thick pressed kind... probably .030 or
.040 with nice crisp bevels) with brass toggles in the center of them
for light switches. *they all still worked...


nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel-Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Like the idea of using brass.

Jimmie

JIMMIE CRACK CORN, SEEM LIKE NOBODY CARES
BTW BE CAREFUL WIT THAT ROOSTER UP THERE, HE THINKS HES A EAGLE.
BOOWAHAHAHAHA }; o
TGITM
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