DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 8, 6:47 pm, "PV" edrnouser@ spam telus.net wrote:
James wrote:
Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in
one pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear
from someone who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as
to get a perfectly smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

Late to the party, but just saw this today. What you need is a Beam
Saw

http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools...SXEc400HM.html

An interesting collection of power tools for working big lumber, but
not cheap

--
PV

If you can't fix it with a hammer.......you have an electrical
problem

Those won't work for the OP. He has stated in no uncertain terms that
he won't use a chainsaw.

Since those beam cutters are nothing more (said with jest) than
electric chain saws, he won't be using one of those.

He's made up his mind. Don't go confusing him with facts.

Good point, but the portable bandsaw looked pretty sweet....once you get
passed the price tag

--
PV

If you can't fix it with a hammer.......you have an electrical problem

On May 7, 7:25*am, "James" wrote:
Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. *Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy....
it has to do with speed and manpower. * I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... * *I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James

You draw lines on it and give me a good chain and I'll make a straight
cut. You can make pretty decent cuts with a chain saw if you have a
line to follow, the wood on saw horses, and take your time.

Hi James,

will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 beams, so could cut down on work
if we had a saw that can cut in one pass.

I would just use a normal circular saw, making a cut on one face then
flipping the beam over and completing the cut. This will produce a
cleaner and more accurate cut than a chain saw, and will be a LOT less
work than trying to lift a beam into position to cut with a power miter
saw (if you could even find one that can cut that big of a beam).

If you're really concerned about the appearance, you could clean up the
end after the cut using a hand plane, sharp chisel, or a belt sander.

stake them in the ground with rebar. Will nail beam squares together
with 10 inch galvanized spiral nails.

If it were me, I would use long screws instead of nails. Most home
centers stock landscaping screws like this in their hardware area. A
driver drill would have no problem driving these.

For the project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about
buying a basic drill press to drill pilot holes first.

I think most of the landscaping screws are self tapping, so you wouldn't
need to drill pilot holes. But for the rebar (and pilot holes if you
choose), just use a good drill with a long drill bit (self feeding bits
help if you can find them in the size you need). You don't need the
accuracy of a drill press for this application and it would be a lot more
work trying to position a large beam in a drill press anyway.

I have a DW246 drill for these kinds of tasks. It is small and compact
but very powerful. With a 2" self feed auger bit you really have to
brace yourself or it will rip your arm off if it hits a knot or
something.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW246-2.../dp/B00002233G

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains.

If that's the case, you certainly don't want to haul a power miter saw
and drill press to the area and try to set up work stations for each
machine out in the dirt and rain. These are shop tools, not remote
mountain tools.

Of course, you will need to figure out some way to get power to the site,
even with the portable circular saw and hand drill. If you are close
enough, you could use heavy gauge extension cords (10 gauge) to go a
couple hundred feet or so. If you're farther than that, you should
probably buy or rent a generator.

Alternatively, you could use a cordless drill and saw if you have lots of
extra batteries.

If you don't have access to power and don't have cordless power tools,
you can always do it the way our ancestors did. A handsaw and manual
auger drill bit. It's slow and laborious, but it works.

Will build "squares" out of beams

One final thought... Have you considered prebuilding your "squares" in
your shop, then hauling the finished sections to the site? You could get
really fancy with the joinery if you wish, half laps at the corners or
mortise and tenon if you feel it's necessary. Build everything in your
shop to get the accuracy you're wanting, then you would only need a
hammer, shovel, and cordless drill on the site to fasten them in place.

Good luck!

Anthony Watson
Mountain Software
www.mountain-software.com

On May 6, 10:47*am, "James" wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

No. The saw's motor is approximately 6" in diameter, and limits the
depth of cut to about 4.5" on a typical 12" circular miter saw.

On May 6, 9:47*am, "James" wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

I have an older Delta 12" Miter saw. I just walked out and looked at
it, with tape measure in hand. My answer is no, not in one pass.

There is enough clearance between the bed and blade for a 5-1/2' to 6"
piece of stock to clear. BUT, from the outer radius of the blade, to
the motor/blade housing only measures about 4-7/8" so you are going to
come up about 5/8" short on depth.

How perfect of a cut do you need? I often cut 2x10's on my saw, which
is beyond the cutting range but a little care lets me switch sides and
line the blade up visually. You should be able to do the same thing
and finish the cut from the opposite side after resetting the blade to
the other side.

RonB


RonB

Good points here Anthony... thanks to you and all others. Yes, I am
planning on making the squares off-site.

Others have made good points, and I will take all of them into account. Some
of you have already made me re-visit some of my original thinking. So, I do
take note of what you all say......

Thanks to all !!

James

BTW, am in mountains of NC

On May 9, 4:20*pm, "James" wrote:
Good points here Anthony... thanks to you and all others. * Yes, *I am
planning on making the squares off-site.

Others have made good points, and I will take all of them into account. Some
of you have already made me re-visit some of my original thinking. *So, I do
take note of what you all say......

Thanks to all !!

James

BTW, *am in mountains of NC

It sounds like a pretty big project. You might consider that pt 6x6's
don't last all that long in the ground. I just replaced as 17 year
old retaining wall made of them and many were rotted to the point of
falling apart. One of the problems is penetration of the
preservative. A lot of the rot started on cut ends.

On 5/9/2011 11:20 AM, wrote:
On May 6, 10:47 am, wrote:
Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

No. The saw's motor is approximately 6" in diameter, and limits the
depth of cut to about 4.5" on a typical 12" circular miter saw.


Unless you have a saw that has a belt driven motor that is high
mounted, or a angled motor (such as the Makita slide-miter saws). Only
the cheapest of the cheap use a straight attached motor.

--
I'm never going to grow up.

On May 6, 10:47*am, "James" wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

If I had a large number of them to do I would lay out all the cut
lines on them a lay them side by side then cut as many as I could in
one pass with a circular saw then flip and cut the other side. Will
probably take a 12 in saw to do it in two passes without having to
finish with a hand saw .....dont think they are terribly expensive to
rent.

Jimmie

On May 10, 10:44*am, JIMMIE wrote:

If I had a large number *of them to do I would lay out all the cut
lines on them a lay them side by side then cut as many as I could in
one pass with a circular saw then flip and cut the other side.

The idea is to not hump more than you have to - that way you'll last
longer. The saw is far lighter and easier to move than a 6x6. The
routine is to mark the length on the 6x6 then cut with the saw in your
right hand and a speed square as a fence in your left...if you're
using a circular saw. If you're using a chainsaw, you really can't/
shouldn't line them up side by side anyway.

Will probably take a 12 in saw to do it in two passes without having to
finish with a hand saw .....dont think they are terribly expensive to rent.

I know that anecdotal examples don't always hold, but I have some similar
steps in the ground now for ten years, and they appear to have no wear or
deterioration whatsoever. I am 66 years old, and if they last 20 years
for me.............. you know the rest...

BTW, since you mention it, what type of preservative would I ask for at the
big box stores, for me to paint/coat the end cuts ??

Thanks !

James

Penta

http://www.pacificwood.com/penta

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"James" wrote in message
news
I know that anecdotal examples don't always hold, but I have some
similar steps in the ground now for ten years, and they appear to
have no wear or deterioration whatsoever. I am 66 years old,
and if they last 20 years for me.............. you know the
rest...

BTW, since you mention it, what type of preservative would I
ask for at the big box stores, for me to paint/coat the end cuts
??

Thanks !

James

DanG, nice link, thanks !!

James

I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. Several responders said that
would make a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.



NEW QUESTION !! :


While I used 12 inch spiral nails on a similar project about ten years ago,
my carpenter-helper has suggested that I consider using Spax Lag Screws, of
the proper material for use with PT lumber. I suppose that I would use 10
inch screws, either with a torx or hex head. I am old fashioned (and
old), and I just can't quite see how a screw could provide as much stability
as a 3/8 inch spike nail, or a spiral nail. My carpenter assures me that
it can. It would also seem to me to very hard to install these, but the
Spax website claims one version of the lag screw doesn't even require
pre-drilling !! I just can't envision how this 10 inch screw could be
drilled in straight, and not go off on a bad angle or something...

Any thoughts/ ideas, or (most importantly) experience using these Spax
products ???

Thanks for any tips on this !!

James

James wrote the following:
I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. Several responders said that
would make a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.

Take a square and make a cut line around all 4 sides of the beam. You
may find that the last drawn line doesn't meet up exactly with the first
line you drew.
Unless you intend to have this beam stand vertically on end on a
perfectly level surface, that doesn't really matter much.
You're building primitive steps on a slope in a mountainous area, you
are not building furniture!
Who the f**k is going to look at the ends?
Anyone that does mention the unevenness of the ends should be eliminated
from future guest lists.
Just sayin'.




NEW QUESTION !! :


While I used 12 inch spiral nails on a similar project about ten years ago,
my carpenter-helper has suggested that I consider using Spax Lag Screws, of
the proper material for use with PT lumber. I suppose that I would use 10
inch screws, either with a torx or hex head. I am old fashioned (and
old), and I just can't quite see how a screw could provide as much stability
as a 3/8 inch spike nail, or a spiral nail. My carpenter assures me that
it can. It would also seem to me to very hard to install these, but the
Spax website claims one version of the lag screw doesn't even require
pre-drilling !! I just can't envision how this 10 inch screw could be
drilled in straight, and not go off on a bad angle or something...

Any thoughts/ ideas, or (most importantly) experience using these Spax
products ???

Thanks for any tips on this !!

James





--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On May 23, 8:14*pm, willshak wrote:
James wrote the following: I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. * Several responders said that
would make *a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.

Take a square and make a cut line around all 4 sides of the beam. You
may find that the last drawn line doesn't meet up exactly with the first
line you drew.
Unless you intend to have this beam stand vertically on end on a
perfectly level surface, that doesn't really matter much.
You're building primitive steps on a slope in a mountainous area, you
are not building furniture!
Who the f**k is going to look at the ends?
Anyone that does mention the unevenness of the ends should be eliminated
from future guest lists.
Just sayin'.

The OP should reread this thread and ask himself why he ignored the
advice about the screws (and info on driving them) until his
'carpenter-helper' suggested them.

Later, after his 'carpenter-helper' points out that cutting landscape
tie joinery is dumb, maybe he'll check back here and ask about that.
I'm guessing that after he's humped a few of those ties up onto the
miter saw, and then tried to rotate them and move them accurately,
he'll see the light. Maybe.

These sort of scenarios are always entertaining. Someone posts a
"question" and then ignores all of the advice. They're not really
asking for advice, they're asking for validation. Unfortunately I'm
really bad at validating dumb ideas. Maybe Stuart Smalley could help.

R

R

On May 23, 5:38*pm, "James" wrote:
I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. * Several responders said that
would make *a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.

NEW * * QUESTION !! *:

While I used *12 inch spiral nails on a similar project about ten years ago,
my carpenter-helper has suggested that I consider using *Spax Lag Screws, of
the proper material for use with PT lumber. * I suppose that I would use *10
inch screws, either *with a torx *or hex head. * *I am old fashioned *(and
old), and I just can't quite see how a screw could provide as much stability
as a 3/8 *inch spike nail, or a spiral nail. *My carpenter assures me that
it can. * It would also seem to me to very hard to install these, but the
Spax website claims one version of the lag screw doesn't even require
pre-drilling *!! * I just can't envision how this *10 inch screw could be
drilled in straight, and not go off on a bad angle or something...

Any thoughts/ *ideas, *or *(most importantly) *experience using these *Spax
products ???

Thanks for any tips on this *!!

James

It will go straight. Use a couple where you would have used a single
large spike.

On May 24, 9:16*am, wrote:
On Tue, 24 May 2011 04:40:21 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On May 23, 5:38*pm, "James" wrote:
I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. * Several responders said that
would make *a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.

NEW * * QUESTION !! *:

While I used *12 inch spiral nails on a similar project about ten years ago,
my carpenter-helper has suggested that I consider using *Spax Lag Screws, of
the proper material for use with PT lumber. * I suppose that I would use *10
inch screws, either *with a torx *or hex head. * *I am old fashioned *(and
old), and I just can't quite see how a screw could provide as much stability
as a 3/8 *inch spike nail, or a spiral nail. *My carpenter assures me that
it can. * It would also seem to me to very hard to install these, but the
Spax website claims one version of the lag screw doesn't even require
pre-drilling *!! * I just can't envision how this *10 inch screw could be
drilled in straight, and not go off on a bad angle or something...

Any thoughts/ *ideas, *or *(most importantly) *experience using these *Spax
products ???

Thanks for any tips on this *!!

James

It will go straight. *Use a couple where you would have used a single
large spike.

You better have one hell of a powerful drill too, and be prepared to
pay about $3 or more per screw. *Dont even think about using a battery
powered drill. *- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not really hard to drive them as they are pretty thin. For the
volume it sounds like he has, a corded drill would be better. They
are expensive. They are a labor saving solution. Fits the commercial
side a bit better where labor is your biggest cost. They are fast.
Pop a couple in in less than 30 seconds. No predrilling. For harry
homeowner labor is free so that might factor differently in the
decision.

Labor saving doesn't seem to be an issue for him though as he plans to
use a miter saw to cut the 6x6s. MYself I'd mark and cut a bunch with
a chain saw as they were coming off the truck and going down the
hill. Then zip them together with screws and move on.

On May 24, 6:50*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 24, 9:16*am, wrote:





On Tue, 24 May 2011 04:40:21 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
On May 23, 5:38*pm, "James" wrote:
I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. * Several responders said that
would make *a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.

NEW * * QUESTION !! *:

While I used *12 inch spiral nails on a similar project about ten years ago,
my carpenter-helper has suggested that I consider using *Spax Lag Screws, of
the proper material for use with PT lumber. * I suppose that I would use *10
inch screws, either *with a torx *or hex head. * *I am old fashioned *(and
old), and I just can't quite see how a screw could provide as much stability
as a 3/8 *inch spike nail, or a spiral nail. *My carpenter assures me that
it can. * It would also seem to me to very hard to install these, but the
Spax website claims one version of the lag screw doesn't even require
pre-drilling *!! * I just can't envision how this *10 inch screw could be
drilled in straight, and not go off on a bad angle or something...

Any thoughts/ *ideas, *or *(most importantly) *experience using these *Spax
products ???

Thanks for any tips on this *!!

James

It will go straight. *Use a couple where you would have used a single
large spike.

You better have one hell of a powerful drill too, and be prepared to
pay about $3 or more per screw. *Dont even think about using a battery
powered drill. *- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not really hard to drive them as they are pretty thin. *For the
volume it sounds like he has, a corded drill would be better. *They
are expensive. *They are a labor saving solution. *Fits the commercial
side a bit better where labor is your biggest cost. *They are fast.
Pop a couple in in less than 30 seconds. *No predrilling. *For harry
homeowner labor is free so that might factor differently in the
decision.

Labor saving doesn't seem to be an issue for him though as he plans to
use a miter saw to cut the 6x6s. *MYself I'd mark and cut a bunch with
a chain saw as they were coming off the truck and going down the
hill. *Then zip them together with screws and move on.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When reading his posts the phrase "polishing a turd" comes to mind.

Harry K

On May 25, 12:12*am, Harry K wrote:
On May 24, 6:50*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On May 24, 9:16*am, wrote:

On Tue, 24 May 2011 04:40:21 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
On May 23, 5:38*pm, "James" wrote:
I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. * Several responders said that
would make *a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.

NEW * * QUESTION !! *:

While I used *12 inch spiral nails on a similar project about ten years ago,
my carpenter-helper has suggested that I consider using *Spax Lag Screws, of
the proper material for use with PT lumber. * I suppose that I would use *10
inch screws, either *with a torx *or hex head. * *I am old fashioned *(and
old), and I just can't quite see how a screw could provide as much stability
as a 3/8 *inch spike nail, or a spiral nail. *My carpenter assures me that
it can. * It would also seem to me to very hard to install these, but the
Spax website claims one version of the lag screw doesn't even require
pre-drilling *!! * I just can't envision how this *10 inch screw could be
drilled in straight, and not go off on a bad angle or something...

Any thoughts/ *ideas, *or *(most importantly) *experience using these *Spax
products ???

Thanks for any tips on this *!!

James

It will go straight. *Use a couple where you would have used a single
large spike.

You better have one hell of a powerful drill too, and be prepared to
pay about $3 or more per screw. *Dont even think about using a battery
powered drill. *- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not really hard to drive them as they are pretty thin. *For the
volume it sounds like he has, a corded drill would be better. *They
are expensive. *They are a labor saving solution. *Fits the commercial
side a bit better where labor is your biggest cost. *They are fast.
Pop a couple in in less than 30 seconds. *No predrilling. *For harry
homeowner labor is free so that might factor differently in the
decision.

Labor saving doesn't seem to be an issue for him though as he plans to
use a miter saw to cut the 6x6s. *MYself I'd mark and cut a bunch with
a chain saw as they were coming off the truck and going down the
hill. *Then zip them together with screws and move on.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When reading his posts the phrase "polishing a turd" comes to mind.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yea

replying to James, Dan wrote:
If you must have a 1-pass cut on a 6x6 or larger post or beam, then I
would suggest you invest in a bandsaw. These will cut much deeper than
6x6, produce a very fine cut or notch w/no overcut & can also be used for
re-sawing old lumber & many other projects. Alternatively, you can
purchase a Prazi Beam Cutter attachment for a circular or wormdrive saw (I
would recommend the wormdrive for more power on large beams). The Prazi
will cut up to 12" in 1 pass. There is also a 16" circular saw from Makita
that is used in the Timber Framing Industry.

--

replying to Harry K, Evan wrote:
The bosh spade bits with the screw tip, in an impact driver is the fastest way
to bore those holes

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...aw-633179-.htm

replying to Steve Barker, Evan wrote:
Youd be amazed what an impact driver will do with a nice spade bit

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...aw-633179-.htm

replying to aemeijers, DataSam wrote:
Why not just try to answer his questions and skip the lectures and suggestions

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...aw-633179-.htm