My water heater burner won't stay lit. Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. So I think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. This takes less than a
minute.

I have removed the burner assembly, and uploaded several pictures to
photobucket to illustrate the situation.
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/


Questions:
1. One thread I found on the internet suggested that when the main
burner comes on, the draft pulls the pilot light flame away from the
thermocouple, causing it to cool. Is this plausible? If so, how do I
fix it?

2. If that isn't it, what else might be wrong, and what is the
solution?

3. What is that element that's wired into the thermocouple (visible in
pictures 6 and 7)? I don't recognize it, and every thermocouple
picture I find on the internet doesn't have it.

4. The thermocouple appears to be soldered into its bracket. Is this
common practice?


BONUS QUESTION: Does anyone know what the heck that is in picture 10?
It's a tool belonging to my friend, and neither of us know what it
is. It's two parallel edges, perpendicularly attached to a single
square tube. The edges are lockable via the white knobs, and one has
a hinged piece on the inner side that swings out maybe 10 degrees from
the tip. In the picture, it has swung out about as far as it's able
to. What is it?

wrote in message
...
My water heater burner won't stay lit. Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. So I think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. This takes less than a
minute.

I have removed the burner assembly, and uploaded several pictures to
photobucket to illustrate the situation.
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/


Questions:
1. One thread I found on the internet suggested that when the main
burner comes on, the draft pulls the pilot light flame away from the
thermocouple, causing it to cool. Is this plausible? If so, how do I
fix it?

2. If that isn't it, what else might be wrong, and what is the
solution?

3. What is that element that's wired into the thermocouple (visible in
pictures 6 and 7)? I don't recognize it, and every thermocouple
picture I find on the internet doesn't have it.

4. The thermocouple appears to be soldered into its bracket. Is this
common practice?


BONUS QUESTION: Does anyone know what the heck that is in picture 10?
It's a tool belonging to my friend, and neither of us know what it
is. It's two parallel edges, perpendicularly attached to a single
square tube. The edges are lockable via the white knobs, and one has
a hinged piece on the inner side that swings out maybe 10 degrees from
the tip. In the picture, it has swung out about as far as it's able
to. What is it?

Part of a Pana Vise for holding circuit boards

wrote in message
...
My water heater burner won't stay lit. Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. So I think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. This takes less than a
minute.

I have removed the burner assembly, and uploaded several pictures to
photobucket to illustrate the situation.
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/


Questions:
1. One thread I found on the internet suggested that when the main
burner comes on, the draft pulls the pilot light flame away from the
thermocouple, causing it to cool. Is this plausible? If so, how do I
fix it?

2. If that isn't it, what else might be wrong, and what is the
solution?

3. What is that element that's wired into the thermocouple (visible in
pictures 6 and 7)? I don't recognize it, and every thermocouple
picture I find on the internet doesn't have it.

4. The thermocouple appears to be soldered into its bracket. Is this
common practice?


BONUS QUESTION: Does anyone know what the heck that is in picture 10?
It's a tool belonging to my friend, and neither of us know what it
is. It's two parallel edges, perpendicularly attached to a single
square tube. The edges are lockable via the white knobs, and one has
a hinged piece on the inner side that swings out maybe 10 degrees from
the tip. In the picture, it has swung out about as far as it's able
to. What is it?

Clean the flame sensor...

On Apr 18, 1:03*pm, "Rick" wrote:
wrote in message

...





My water heater burner won't stay lit. *Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. *So I think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. *This takes less than a
minute.

I have removed the burner assembly, and uploaded several pictures to
photobucket to illustrate the situation.
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

Questions:
1. One thread I found on the internet suggested that when the main
burner comes on, the draft pulls the pilot light flame away from the
thermocouple, causing it to cool. *Is this plausible? *If so, how do I
fix it?

2. If that isn't it, what else might be wrong, and what is the
solution?

3. What is that element that's wired into the thermocouple (visible in
pictures 6 and 7)? *I don't recognize it, and every thermocouple
picture I find on the internet doesn't have it.

4. The thermocouple appears to be soldered into its bracket. *Is this
common practice?

BONUS QUESTION: Does anyone know what the heck that is in picture 10?
It's a tool belonging to my friend, and neither of us know what it
is. *It's two parallel edges, perpendicularly attached to a single
square tube. *The edges are lockable via the white knobs, and one has
a hinged piece on the inner side that swings out maybe 10 degrees from
the tip. *In the picture, it has swung out about as far as it's able
to. *What is it?

Clean the flame sensor...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

first replace the thermocouple, its always best to elminate the quick
easy cheap issues first

wrote:
My water heater burner won't stay lit. Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. So I think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. This takes less than a
minute.

I have removed the burner assembly, and uploaded several pictures to
photobucket to illustrate the situation.
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/


Questions:
1. One thread I found on the internet suggested that when the main
burner comes on, the draft pulls the pilot light flame away from the
thermocouple, causing it to cool. Is this plausible? If so, how do I
fix it?

2. If that isn't it, what else might be wrong, and what is the
solution?

3. What is that element that's wired into the thermocouple (visible in
pictures 6 and 7)? I don't recognize it, and every thermocouple
picture I find on the internet doesn't have it.

4. The thermocouple appears to be soldered into its bracket. Is this
common practice?


BONUS QUESTION: Does anyone know what the heck that is in picture 10?
It's a tool belonging to my friend, and neither of us know what it
is. It's two parallel edges, perpendicularly attached to a single
square tube. The edges are lockable via the white knobs, and one has
a hinged piece on the inner side that swings out maybe 10 degrees from
the tip. In the picture, it has swung out about as far as it's able
to. What is it?

Had a gas oven like that. It was buildup on the thermocouple or flame
sensor. Cleaned it off and all was fine again.

--
If your doctor isn't taking new patients,
he ain't curing any of them.

On Apr 18, 1:03*pm, "Rick" wrote:
wrote in message

...



Clean the flame sensor...


http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

I cleaned it with 100-grit sandpaper. I uploaded the results to the
photo album. Reinstalled the burner assembly...still doesn't work.
Now it will only stay on as long as I actually hold the button down.

Is it expected for the thermocouple to be soldered in place? I think
I have to replace it now, but have no soldering equipment.

On Apr 18, 1:25*pm, " wrote:
On Apr 18, 1:03*pm, "Rick" wrote:

wrote in message

....

Clean the flame sensor...

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

I cleaned it with 100-grit sandpaper. *I uploaded the results to the
photo album. *Reinstalled the burner assembly...still doesn't work.
Now it will only stay on as long as I actually hold the button down.

Is it expected for the thermocouple to be soldered in place? *I think
I have to replace it now, but have no soldering equipment.

It's usually a push-in clip or threaded collar.

On Apr 18, 2:22*pm, LSMFT wrote:
wrote:
My water heater burner won't stay lit. *Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. *So I think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. *This takes less than a
minute.

I have removed the burner assembly, and uploaded several pictures to
photobucket to illustrate the situation.
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

Questions:
1. One thread I found on the internet suggested that when the main
burner comes on, the draft pulls the pilot light flame away from the
thermocouple, causing it to cool. *Is this plausible? *If so, how do I
fix it?

If that were what was happening, it would fire up and go through one
heating cycle, then fail to light the second time.



2. If that isn't it, what else might be wrong, and what is the
solution?

Water heaters have some sort of failsafe over temp that comes
into effect if the water gets too hot. It only acts once, can't be
reset and then you need a new gas valve unit. But exactly
how the symptoms manifest after it goes off, don't know.





3. What is that element that's wired into the thermocouple (visible in
pictures 6 and 7)? *I don't recognize it, and every thermocouple
picture I find on the internet doesn't have it.

Never saw that either. It's not clear how it's wired in, but it
might be some kind of over-temp fuse that acts if the pilot
light gets to big, or flame is around it where it shouldn't be.
Is this a relatively new unit? They did add some gizmo a
few years back to prevent water heaters from blowing up
basements where you fill the whole place with solvent
fumes and fail to turn the burner off.




4. The thermocouple appears to be soldered into its bracket. *Is this
common practice?

Can't tell from the pics, but it looks like it might be spot
welded on. I would not expect it to be soldered.






BONUS QUESTION: Does anyone know what the heck that is in picture 10?
It's a tool belonging to my friend, and neither of us know what it
is. *It's two parallel edges, perpendicularly attached to a single
square tube. *The edges are lockable via the white knobs, and one has
a hinged piece on the inner side that swings out maybe 10 degrees from
the tip. *In the picture, it has swung out about as far as it's able
to. *What is it?

Had a gas oven like that. It was buildup on the thermocouple or flame
sensor. Cleaned it off and all was fine again.

--
If your doctor isn't taking new patients,
he ain't curing any of them.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

wrote the following:
On Apr 18, 1:03 pm, "Rick" wrote:

wrote in message

...



Clean the flame sensor...



http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

I cleaned it with 100-grit sandpaper. I uploaded the results to the
photo album. Reinstalled the burner assembly...still doesn't work.
Now it will only stay on as long as I actually hold the button down.

Is it expected for the thermocouple to be soldered in place? I think
I have to replace it now, but have no soldering equipment.


If you don't have the tools and don't know how to fix the problem, you
should call in a professional.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Apr 18, 2:30*pm, Bob Villa wrote:
On Apr 18, 1:25*pm, " wrote:



On Apr 18, 1:03*pm, "Rick" wrote:

wrote in message

....

Clean the flame sensor...

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

I cleaned it with 100-grit sandpaper. *I uploaded the results to the
photo album. *Reinstalled the burner assembly...still doesn't work.
Now it will only stay on as long as I actually hold the button down.

Is it expected for the thermocouple to be soldered in place? *I think
I have to replace it now, but have no soldering equipment.

It's usually a push-in clip or threaded collar.

Question on picture #13. How did you get it to light outside the water
heater? Nice blue circular flame!

I see a thermocouple, and oddly enough, also a flame sensor
rod. The flame sensor rod (sticking out of the white
porclean" may be cleaned with very fine steel wool.

No idea what's the tool.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
My water heater burner won't stay lit. Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. So I
think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there
will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. This takes less
than a
minute.

I have removed the burner assembly, and uploaded several
pictures to
photobucket to illustrate the situation.
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/


Questions:
1. One thread I found on the internet suggested that when
the main
burner comes on, the draft pulls the pilot light flame away
from the
thermocouple, causing it to cool. Is this plausible? If
so, how do I
fix it?

2. If that isn't it, what else might be wrong, and what is
the
solution?

3. What is that element that's wired into the thermocouple
(visible in
pictures 6 and 7)? I don't recognize it, and every
thermocouple
picture I find on the internet doesn't have it.

4. The thermocouple appears to be soldered into its bracket.
Is this
common practice?


BONUS QUESTION: Does anyone know what the heck that is in
picture 10?
It's a tool belonging to my friend, and neither of us know
what it
is. It's two parallel edges, perpendicularly attached to a
single
square tube. The edges are lockable via the white knobs,
and one has
a hinged piece on the inner side that swings out maybe 10
degrees from
the tip. In the picture, it has swung out about as far as
it's able
to. What is it?

On Apr 18, 11:50*am, " wrote:
My water heater burner won't stay lit. *Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. *So I think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. *This takes less than a
minute.

I have removed the burner assembly, and uploaded several pictures to
photobucket to illustrate the situation.http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

Questions:
1. One thread I found on the internet suggested that when the main
burner comes on, the draft pulls the pilot light flame away from the
thermocouple, causing it to cool. *Is this plausible? *If so, how do I
fix it?

2. If that isn't it, what else might be wrong, and what is the
solution?

3. What is that element that's wired into the thermocouple (visible in
pictures 6 and 7)? *I don't recognize it, and every thermocouple
picture I find on the internet doesn't have it.

4. The thermocouple appears to be soldered into its bracket. *Is this
common practice?

BONUS QUESTION: Does anyone know what the heck that is in picture 10?
It's a tool belonging to my friend, and neither of us know what it
is. *It's two parallel edges, perpendicularly attached to a single
square tube. *The edges are lockable via the white knobs, and one has
a hinged piece on the inner side that swings out maybe 10 degrees from
the tip. *In the picture, it has swung out about as far as it's able
to. *What is it?

You haven\'t named a brand or model, that just might help!!!! Have
you contacted the manufacturer's hot lin?. On something as
potentially dangerous as a water heater, they must have some sort of a
hot line.

" wrote:

My water heater burner won't stay lit. Here's what I know:

1. If I light the pilot, it can stay on indefinitely. So I think the
thermocouple is actually functioning.
2. If I then turn on the burner, after a few seconds there will be a
*click*, and the whole thing shuts down. This takes less than a
minute.

Gas water heaters built in the past 5 years or so in the US are required to have
sealed burners. Since you can't have a flame without oxygen, they have what's
called a flame arrestor, which is a honeycomb like filter that allows air to
pass through, but won't allow a flame to go the other direction. Flame arrestors
are notoriously susceptable to plugging up with dust, so the burner also has to
be protected with an oxygen sensor.

It sounds like either your oxygen sensor is bad, or more likely, that there
isn't enough air getting to the burner to support a full on flame.

On Apr 18, 4:14*pm, Bob Villa wrote:
On Apr 18, 2:30*pm, Bob Villa wrote:



On Apr 18, 1:25*pm, " wrote:

On Apr 18, 1:03*pm, "Rick" wrote:

wrote in message

...

Clean the flame sensor...

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

I cleaned it with 100-grit sandpaper. *I uploaded the results to the
photo album. *Reinstalled the burner assembly...still doesn't work.
Now it will only stay on as long as I actually hold the button down.

Is it expected for the thermocouple to be soldered in place? *I think
I have to replace it now, but have no soldering equipment.

It's usually a push-in clip or threaded collar.

Question on picture #13. How did you get it to light outside the water
heater? Nice blue circular flame!

Well, I don't really _want_ to tell you because I'm anticipating a
cringeworthy reaction, but...it's next to the water heater, with
everything attached (just rotated), and set on "Pilot Light". I
wanted to see where the thermocouple was in relation to the pilot
light itself, and couldn't see it through the viewport.

As a followup, it didn't work when reassembled because during
reinsertion I broke the fusible link (the S-thingy in pics 6 and 7).
I thought about trying to solder it back together, but thought "eh,
heck with it."

It was a State Select GS560YBRT water heater, and it's not possible to
replace the thermocouple on those; I had to order a new pilot
assembly. It'll arrive in the next few days, and set me back $60.

On Mon, 18 Apr 2011 15:52:15 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:



It was a State Select GS560YBRT water heater, and it's not possible to
replace the thermocouple on those; I had to order a new pilot
assembly. It'll arrive in the next few days, and set me back $60.

That was a good move.

--Vic

On Mon, 18 Apr 2011 11:25:45 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Apr 18, 1:03*pm, "Rick" wrote:
wrote in message

...



Clean the flame sensor...


http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...ter%20Problem/

I cleaned it with 100-grit sandpaper. I uploaded the results to the

I've never had a gas water heater, but is 100-grit sandpaper really
the way to clean it? I have an oil furnace and I just use a paper
towel to clean the flame sensor.

photo album. Reinstalled the burner assembly...still doesn't work.
Now it will only stay on as long as I actually hold the button down.

Is it expected for the thermocouple to be soldered in place? I think
I have to replace it now, but have no soldering equipment.

willshak wrote:
snip

If you don't have the tools and don't know how to fix the problem, you
should call in a professional.


I normally dislike this advice, but in cases where you risk burning
down the house, it sounds rational. Making it "work" is not necessarily
the same as making it "safe".

On Apr 18, 6:52*pm, " wrote:
On Apr 18, 4:14*pm, Bob Villa wrote:



It was a State Select GS560YBRT water heater, and it's not possible to
replace the thermocouple on those; I had to order a new pilot
assembly. *It'll arrive in the next few days, and set me back $60.

Final followup: the part arrived. It only took about 15 minutes to
install, and I have hot water again.

On Apr 22, 5:45*pm, mike wrote:
willshak wrote:

snip



If you don't have the tools and don't know how to fix the problem, you
should call in a professional.

I normally dislike this advice, but in cases where you risk burning
down the house, it sounds rational. *Making it "work" is not necessarily
the same as making it "safe".

On the one hand, it's hard to argue against that logic. On the other,
I had already called in the "pros" twice. Two different companies
came out and gave two different diagnoses, replaced parts, and charged
me a total of more than $300. When it went out the third time, I
started googling and did it myself. Not saying you guys are wrong in
general, just saying that two different companies combined to bat .000
in my case.

On Apr 23, 8:51*am, " wrote:
On Apr 22, 5:45*pm, mike wrote:

willshak wrote:

snip

If you don't have the tools and don't know how to fix the problem, you
should call in a professional.

I normally dislike this advice, but in cases where you risk burning
down the house, it sounds rational. *Making it "work" is not necessarily
the same as making it "safe".

On the one hand, it's hard to argue against that logic. *On the other,
I had already called in the "pros" twice. *Two different companies
came out and gave two different diagnoses, replaced parts, and charged
me a total of more than $300. *When it went out the third time, I
started googling and did it myself. *Not saying you guys are wrong in
general, just saying that two different companies combined to bat .000
in my case.

Point taken...and well done on your "part".

There are several conveniences that I really enjoy. Hot and
cold running water is one such. Glad to hear that worked for
you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

Final followup: the part arrived. It only took about 15
minutes to
install, and I have hot water again.