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#1
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A couple of electrical queries
Hello all,
Hope someone can shed some lights on the following: 1. I ran a #14 for under-cabinet lights/strips. The lights will be switched on/off from a wall switch. Do I need a metal J-box and BX wires from the wall to the lights? The #14 stub is now just sticking out of a small round hole in the drywall. Stub is currently capped. 2. Plan to upgrade the service panel to 200A. Can I run a few extra runs from the attic (grounded and capped in metal J-box with strain relief) to the panel without having the wires actually connected to the breakers? These stubs will be capped and taped. thanks richard |
#2
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A couple of electrical queries
wrote in message ... Hello all, Hope someone can shed some lights on the following: 1. I ran a #14 for under-cabinet lights/strips. The lights will be switched on/off from a wall switch. Do I need a metal J-box and BX wires from the wall to the lights? The #14 stub is now just sticking out of a small round hole in the drywall. Stub is currently capped. ** Assuming you ran cable, you just use a cable connector. Some under cabinet fixtures are very thin and require a special connector, which typically come with the fixture 2. Plan to upgrade the service panel to 200A. Can I run a few extra runs from the attic (grounded and capped in metal J-box with strain relief) to the panel without having the wires actually connected to the breakers? These stubs will be capped and taped. ** Sure thanks richard |
#3
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A couple of electrical queries
On Apr 3, 10:45*pm, wrote:
Hello all, Hope someone can shed some lights on the following: 1. I ran a #14 for under-cabinet lights/strips. The lights will be switched on/off from a wall switch. Do I need a metal J-box and BX wires from the wall to the lights? The #14 stub is now just sticking out of a small round hole in the drywall. Stub is currently capped. 2. *Plan to upgrade the service panel to 200A. *Can I run a few extra runs from the attic (grounded and capped in metal J-box with strain relief) to the panel without having the wires actually connected to the breakers? These stubs will be capped and taped. thanks richard For what it's worth I struggled with connecting under the cabinet lights to a switch. Mostly because of the connection. What I ended up doing was mounting outlets in boxes sideways just above the cabinets. My cabinets have crown molding along the top so you can't see the outlets. I used low voltage halogen lights and the transformers are sitting on top of the cabinets. I run the low voltage cords down the space between the cabinets. |
#4
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A couple of electrical queries
1. I ran a #14 for under-cabinet lights/strips. The lights will be
switched on/off from a wall switch. Do I need a metal J-box and BX wires from the wall to the lights? The #14 stub is now just sticking out of a small round hole in the drywall. Stub is currently capped. For what it's worth I struggled with connecting under the cabinet lights to a switch. Mostly because of the connection. What I ended up doing was mounting outlets in boxes sideways just above the cabinets. My cabinets have crown molding along the top so you can't see the outlets. I used low voltage halogen lights and the transformers are sitting on top of the cabinets. I run the low voltage cords down the space between the cabinets. I too struggled with the best way to handle powering our undercabinet lights from a light switch. I didn't know ahead of time if we would use low voltage lighting, and actually chose line voltage fluorescent lights. I ended up installing outlets in the base cabinets and connected those to a switch. The bottom of our wall cabinets have a 1-1/2" recess that the lights are mounted in. I drilled a hole in the back of the cabinet, then fished a length of 14/2 romex from the upper cabinet to another hole in the base cabinet near the outlet. Then I installed custom plugs on each end so it could plug into the outlet at the bottom and into the light at the top. The outlets are behind drawers so they are easy to access, but don't need to worry about pans bumping them or anything. To be honest, I kind of like your outlet above the cabinet idea, especially for low voltage lights. We will be remodeling my in-laws kitchen this summer, and I may use that idea. Anthony |
#5
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A couple of electrical queries
On Apr 4, 8:58*am, HerHusband wrote:
1. I ran a #14 for under-cabinet lights/strips. The lights will be switched on/off from a wall switch. Do I need a metal J-box and BX wires from the wall to the lights? The #14 stub is now just sticking out of a small round hole in the drywall. Stub is currently capped. For what it's worth I struggled with connecting under the cabinet lights to a switch. *Mostly because of the connection. *What I ended up doing was mounting outlets in boxes sideways just above the cabinets. *My cabinets have crown molding along the top so you can't see the outlets. *I used low voltage halogen lights and the transformers are sitting on top of the cabinets. *I run the low voltage cords down the space between the cabinets. I too struggled with the best way to handle powering our undercabinet lights from a light switch. I didn't know ahead of time if we would use low voltage lighting, and actually chose line voltage fluorescent lights. *I ended up installing outlets in the base cabinets and connected those to a switch. The bottom of our wall cabinets have a 1-1/2" recess that the lights are mounted in. *I drilled a hole in the back of the cabinet, then fished a length of 14/2 romex from the upper cabinet to another hole in the base cabinet near the outlet. Then I installed custom plugs on each end so it could plug into the outlet at the bottom and into the light at the top. The outlets are behind drawers so they are easy to access, but don't need to worry about pans bumping them or anything. To be honest, I kind of like your outlet above the cabinet idea, especially for low voltage lights. *We will be remodeling my in-laws kitchen this summer, and I may use that idea. Anthony Haven't thought about putting the outlet above the cabs. I think I'll move the wire up to setup the plug and run the light wire in the cracks or drill small holes in the hanger cleats. |
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