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Default Installing door strike plate

Is there a foolproof way to do this, other than meticulous measuring?
I never seem to get it perfect first time, and then once the screw
holes are made it's difficult to reposition. I'm sure someone on here
has a cheat.
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Default Installing door strike plate

On Fri, 4 Feb 2011 16:26:19 -0800 (PST), cubby
wrote:

Is there a foolproof way to do this, other than meticulous measuring?
I never seem to get it perfect first time, and then once the screw
holes are made it's difficult to reposition. I'm sure someone on here
has a cheat.


Do you mean alignment with the latch/bolt?

If so, you can use lip-stick. Placed on the end of the latch/bolt.
Close the door -- operate the latch/bolt back and forth to mark the
position on the door jamb. From that mark you can figure the location
where the strike plate needs to go. Mark with a pencil and mount the
strike plate.

If not your meaning, I give up G.
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Default Installing door strike plate

On Feb 4, 6:38*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 4 Feb 2011 16:26:19 -0800 (PST), cubby

wrote:
Is there a foolproof way to do this, other than meticulous measuring?
I never seem to get it perfect first time, and then once the screw
holes are made it's difficult to reposition. *I'm sure someone on here
has a cheat.


Do you mean alignment with the latch/bolt?

If so, you can use lip-stick. *Placed on the end of the latch/bolt.
Close the door -- operate the latch/bolt back and forth to mark the
position on the door jamb. From that mark you can figure the location
where the strike plate needs to go. Mark with a pencil and mount the
strike plate.

If not your meaning, I give up G.


Yes, that's what I mean. I'll have to think how lipstick might work.
Seems a little imprecise? 1/16" out is a big deal.
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Default Installing door strike plate

On 2/4/2011 6:26 PM, cubby wrote:
Is there a foolproof way to do this, other than meticulous measuring?
I never seem to get it perfect first time, and then once the screw
holes are made it's difficult to reposition. I'm sure someone on here
has a cheat.


if you open and close the door about 50 times, the latch will leave a
mark. It'll be right where you want the striker.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
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Default Installing door strike plate

On 2/4/2011 7:26 PM, cubby wrote:
Is there a foolproof way to do this, other than meticulous measuring?
I never seem to get it perfect first time, and then once the screw
holes are made it's difficult to reposition. I'm sure someone on here
has a cheat.


Prehung doors? Slab and jamb are predrilled and premortised, and it
always seems to line up perfectly, if door is installed square and
shimmed correctly.

Put the knob and striker in first, and rub a carpenter's pencil on the
end of the striker. It'll mark the jamb for you. Centerline of the mark
is the centerline of your mortise. You can even hold the striker plate
backwards against the jamb, and center the mark through the hole, and
score around it with a sharp utility knife. Horizontal part is a little
harder, but if door is a little 'loose', you can fine-tune by bending
the tab on plate that goes into the pocket.

It ain't as hard as it sounds.

--
aem sends...


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Default Installing door strike plate

On Fri, 4 Feb 2011 17:34:26 -0800 (PST), cubby
wrote:

On Feb 4, 6:38*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 4 Feb 2011 16:26:19 -0800 (PST), cubby

wrote:
Is there a foolproof way to do this, other than meticulous measuring?
I never seem to get it perfect first time, and then once the screw
holes are made it's difficult to reposition. *I'm sure someone on here
has a cheat.


Do you mean alignment with the latch/bolt?

If so, you can use lip-stick. *Placed on the end of the latch/bolt.
Close the door -- operate the latch/bolt back and forth to mark the
position on the door jamb. From that mark you can figure the location
where the strike plate needs to go. Mark with a pencil and mount the
strike plate.

If not your meaning, I give up G.


Yes, that's what I mean. I'll have to think how lipstick might work.
Seems a little imprecise? 1/16" out is a big deal.


The lip-stick marks the jamb where the latch/bolt will travel into the
jamb. Use the strike plate as a template. Mark with a pencil.

The door knob set strike plate has a small tab used to adjust the
worrisome 1/16". Once adjusted, then do the dead bolt (if you install
one).

Some folks here filter Google posters, so others may not reply.
Hopefully you can get some other ideas if they see your posting.

Good Luck.
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Default Installing door strike plate

I use meticulous measuring.

--
Christopher A. Young
Locksmith with 25 years in the trade
Learn more about Jesus (with 2,000 years in his trade)
www.lds.org
..


"cubby" wrote in message
...
Is there a foolproof way to do this, other than meticulous
measuring?
I never seem to get it perfect first time, and then once the
screw
holes are made it's difficult to reposition. I'm sure
someone on here
has a cheat.


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Default Installing door strike plate

On Feb 4, 8:15*pm, aemeijers wrote:
On 2/4/2011 7:26 PM, cubby wrote:

Is there a foolproof way to do this, other than meticulous measuring?
I never seem to get it perfect first time, and then once the screw
holes are made it's difficult to reposition. *I'm sure someone on here
has a cheat.


Prehung doors? Slab and jamb are predrilled and premortised, and it
always seems to line up perfectly, if door is installed square and
shimmed correctly.

Put the knob and striker in first, and rub a carpenter's pencil on the
end of the striker. It'll mark the jamb for you. Centerline of the mark
is the centerline of your mortise. You can even hold the striker plate
backwards against the jamb, and center the mark through the hole, and
score around it with a sharp utility knife. Horizontal part is a little
harder, but if door is a little 'loose', you can fine-tune by bending
the tab on plate that goes into the pocket.

It ain't as hard as it sounds.

--
aem sends...


Yes, I'm talking prehung. They usually come with the rough area of
the plate routed out, but in my (limited) experience you can never
just use the inside edge of the routed opening. It's the existence of
the opening that makes the lipstick and pencil methods ineffective.

I find this particularly hard with external doors, because with the
weatherstripping you need to have just the right level of compression
of the door to get the right seal. That means you have to start with
the door pushed closed to the right point...so back to the meticulous
measuring. I agree that the metal tab on the plate can give you a
little wiggle room, but with the exterior door I just did the latch
mechanism didn't seem to like it if that tab was not close to 90 deg.

Oh well, I will stick with the meticulous measuring I guess.
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Default Installing door strike plate

On Feb 5, 9:07*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I use meticulous measuring.

--
Christopher A. Young
Locksmith with 25 years in the trade
Learn more about Jesus (with 2,000 years in his trade)
*www.lds.org



Bull... You use a jig and a couple of specialized centering punches
a scratch awl and hole saws like any other locksmith... If the lock
is binding slightly on the strike plate after installation using an
end
mill in your cordless drill to adjust that 1/16" of an inch does the
trick...

~~ Evan
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Default Installing door strike plate

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:15:43 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

OTOH, Vix bit. Never heard of it. Yep, Googled it. Neat...all 50
bizillion times I coulda used it. Doesn't appear to be a Borg item (not
surprised). Woodworkers supply store bailed town long ago. Maybe
contractor tool supply.


I just looked them up at:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2002022/SelfCentering-Hinge-Drilling-Vix-Bits.aspx

It has California's Proposition 65 notice.

"...Tools

California requires the following notice:

WARNING: Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grinding,
drilling, and other construction activities contains chemicals known
to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals a
lead from lead-based paints, crystalline silica from bricks and
cement and other masonry products, and arsenic and chromium from
chemically treated lumber.

Your risk from exposure to these chemicals varies, depending on how
often you do this type of work. To reduce your exposure, work in a
well-ventilated area and with approved safety equipment, such as dust
masks that are specially designed to filter out microscopic
particles."

Even has a warning for electrical cords -- imagine that!



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Default Installing door strike plate

Oren wrote in
:

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:15:43 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

OTOH, Vix bit. Never heard of it. Yep, Googled it. Neat...all 50
bizillion times I coulda used it. Doesn't appear to be a Borg item
(not surprised). Woodworkers supply store bailed town long ago. Maybe
contractor tool supply.


I just looked them up at:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2002...nge-Drilling-V
ix-Bits.aspx

It has California's Proposition 65 notice.

"...Tools

California requires the following notice:

WARNING: Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grinding,
drilling, and other construction activities contains chemicals known
to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals a
lead from lead-based paints, crystalline silica from bricks and
cement and other masonry products, and arsenic and chromium from
chemically treated lumber.

Your risk from exposure to these chemicals varies, depending on how
often you do this type of work. To reduce your exposure, work in a
well-ventilated area and with approved safety equipment, such as dust
masks that are specially designed to filter out microscopic
particles."

Even has a warning for electrical cords -- imagine that!



No wonder that state is broke beyond broke. Paying someone a professional
salary, bennies, etc. to write this ****. I know, It's for the Children!
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Default Installing door strike plate

On Feb 14, 2:15*pm, Red Green wrote:

That sounded easy.

Hmmm, did you originally come up with "Only xx EASY payments of..."???


Nope, but I'm the guy that originally saved people a penny or nickel
on every purchase.
"Now, only $9.99!"

OTOH, Vix bit. Never heard of it. Yep, Googled it. Neat...all 50
bizillion times I coulda used it. Doesn't appear to be a Borg item (not
surprised). Woodworkers supply store bailed town long ago. Maybe
contractor tool supply.


The Vix bit is/was the original and possibly patented. They are all
dedicated for drilling the centered pilot hole. Most people actually
put something in that centered hole after drilling it, so they came up
with two-part bits - self-centering pilot as first stage, slip off the
centering sleeve and there's a drill bit underneath as I mention in my
windbag post. Makita makes a 'flip' style centering/driving bit.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...adwtrack100-20

R
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Default Installing door strike plate


"Red Green" wrote in message
...
Oren wrote in
:

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 19:15:43 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

OTOH, Vix bit. Never heard of it. Yep, Googled it. Neat...all 50
bizillion times I coulda used it. Doesn't appear to be a Borg item
(not surprised). Woodworkers supply store bailed town long ago. Maybe
contractor tool supply.


I just looked them up at:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2002...nge-Drilling-V
ix-Bits.aspx

It has California's Proposition 65 notice.

"...Tools

California requires the following notice:

WARNING: Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grinding,
drilling, and other construction activities contains chemicals known
to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals a
lead from lead-based paints, crystalline silica from bricks and
cement and other masonry products, and arsenic and chromium from
chemically treated lumber.

Your risk from exposure to these chemicals varies, depending on how
often you do this type of work. To reduce your exposure, work in a
well-ventilated area and with approved safety equipment, such as dust
masks that are specially designed to filter out microscopic
particles."

Even has a warning for electrical cords -- imagine that!



No wonder that state is broke beyond broke. Paying someone a professional
salary, bennies, etc. to write this ****. I know, It's for the Children


And then turning their back on stores that sell marijuana, and a system that
allows anyone with a hangnail to get a prescription. I guess like the
Romans, you have to keep the peasants placated and quiet. Always bet on the
lions. At the last game, it was Lions 23, Christians 0.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Download the book $10
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com


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