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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks
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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

wrote in message
...
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks



What types of devices to those plugs belong to? Not the outlets. The plugs.


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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

On Jan 9, 7:21*pm, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
wrote in message

...

We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.


Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/


Thanks


What types of devices to those plugs belong to? Not the outlets. The plugs.


It is connected to a power conditioner which powers some audio
devices. The input to the power conditioner shows it is rated up to
30Amps but we actually do not have that many devices being powered by
this conditioner. So I doubt it is drawing the full 30Amps. Also the
20Amp building fuse would have tripped if the power drain was higher
than 20Amps.
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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug


wrote in message
...
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


Without having a beter look , I would say that in the plug where the wire is
connected to the prong, there is a loose or high resistance connection.

You usually get heat build up at the bad connections. If the plug can be
taken apart, see if the connection is loose. Unless there is some reason
the whole prong is not making connection all over the plug and socket,
there probably was nothing wrong with the socket except the plug overheated
and caused the burnt spots on the socket.


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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

On Jan 9, 7:18*pm, " wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...07/5341718398/

Thanks



Bad (high resistance) connection between the plug & receptacle neutral
contacts.

I'm betting that it took a fair amount of time (many months) for the
problem to manifest.

Get a better grade of receptacle & plug.
Make sure that the plug withdrawal force is good.

The fuse (circuit breaker?) never did its job because the amperage
draw was lower than its rating.

cheers
Bob



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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

On Jan 9, 7:18*pm, " wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...07/5341718398/

Thanks


There is something wrong with that plug. Open it up and look inside.
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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

On 1/9/2011 10:18 PM, wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


Replace the plug. It has a poor connection that resulted in overheating
which was left go until it ruined the outlet... and then ruined the
other outlet. The average person thinks they are safe from electrical
fires if the fuses/breakers work, and there is no short circuits. The
truth is that most electrical fires are due to poor connections... just
like you have. It should have been repaired after it burnt up the first
outlet. Be sure to replace the outlets also. If you can't replace the
plug and the outlets, please call a qualified electrician before you
burn down the office.
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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

On Sun, 09 Jan 2011 22:50:51 -0500, Tony Miklos
wrote:

On 1/9/2011 10:18 PM, wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


Replace the plug. It has a poor connection that resulted in overheating
which was left go until it ruined the outlet... and then ruined the
other outlet. The average person thinks they are safe from electrical
fires if the fuses/breakers work, and there is no short circuits. The
truth is that most electrical fires are due to poor connections... just
like you have. It should have been repaired after it burnt up the first
outlet. Be sure to replace the outlets also. If you can't replace the
plug and the outlets, please call a qualified electrician before you
burn down the office.

Is the "conditioner" the plug is on a Ferro-resonant transformer type
AC Voltage regulator? They can be really nasty to a high-resistance
connection - a lot worse than a non-resonant load.
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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 19:48:28 -0800 (PST), DD_BobK wrote:

On Jan 9, 7:18*pm, " wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...07/5341718398/

Thanks



Bad (high resistance) connection between the plug & receptacle neutral
contacts.

I'm betting that it took a fair amount of time (many months) for the
problem to manifest.

Get a better grade of receptacle & plug.
Make sure that the plug withdrawal force is good.

The fuse (circuit breaker?) never did its job because the amperage
draw was lower than its rating.


This is are arc-fault breakers are supposed to help. I'm with you, though. A
better outlet/plug, properly installed, would have avoided this problem
completely.
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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

On Jan 9, 9:18*pm, " wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...07/5341718398/

Thanks


Why are two outlets discolored? Is it a fuse or a circuit-breaker,
fuses blow, circuit breakers trip, you mixed up words for both
devices, which is it?


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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

It looks as if someone plugged it into a different socket, proving
that the low resistance (bad connection) is in the plug. When taking
apart the plug observe the terminal condition. As mentioned
previously the wire to spade connection was probably compromised. Cut
off at least 4 inches to find bright copper, install a NEW plug maybe
soldering, or crimping on a spade, tighten securely, and plug it into
one of the unburnt sockets. Feel the appliance wire for abnormal
temperature. Observe any and all safety procedures.
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On Jan 9, 11:48*pm, den wrote:
It looks as if someone plugged it into a different socket, proving
that the low resistance (bad connection) is in the plug. When taking
apart the plug observe the terminal condition. *As mentioned
previously the wire to spade connection was probably compromised. Cut
off at least 4 inches to find bright copper, install a NEW plug maybe
soldering, or crimping on a spade, tighten securely, and plug it into
one of the unburnt sockets. Feel the appliance wire for abnormal
temperature. Observe any and all safety procedures.


I see this all the time at my job / business.

Bad plug melts and burns damaging both receptable and plug, high
resistance heating.

Replace both plug and receptable check for heated wires at receptable
too. cut wire back from plug overheated plug wire will not connect
well and lead to futher overheating. coppewr tends to look dark.

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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks

My neighbour had a fire in an 4-outlet box(industry quality) 4 days
ago.
Turned out, one of the screws was not tightened enough,
the insulation had burned off 2 inches of wire, and a short
developed, where the wire touched the other feed wire, but current
was not enough to trip the fuse, because there was no actual metal
contact, just carbonized insulation(when hot, that conducts).
After checking out the whole box, 6 screws turned out to be tightened
rather sloppy.
So, it might be prudent to check out wiring and screws in your office.

In our case, the outlets were high quality, but assembly sucked.
The outlet in question fell apart when checked out.
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On Jan 9, 10:18*pm, " wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...07/5341718398/

Thank


THE DEVICES (PLUG & RECEPTACLES) ARE NOT RATED FOR 20A USE.
AS MENTIONED MAKE SURE ALL WIRES ARE ATTACHED SECURELY.
STOP BUYING JUNK, AND IF THE APPARATUS IS RATED FOR 30A YOU SHOULD NOT
BE OPERATING IT ON A 20A CIRCUIT.
EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU ARE UNDER USING IT, WHATEVER COULD GO WRONG,
WILL GO WRONG.
WHERE ARE YOU, IN THE GHETTO?

PATECUM


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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


Best way to sell a house now days. When you get an arc going all bets
are off as to how much heat is generated and woe to you if the wall has
flammable covering or a curtain is against it.
Ever do any arc welding?
From the looks of the photos though this one looks like it might have
been to much current going through a bad internal connection for to long
of time. And probably someone didn't get a good connection when they
attached the plug to the wire or pinched the wire to much or not enough
when attaching the plug. What device or devices is this thing running?
It must require lot of current. Things like this are not supposed to
happen.
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"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
m...

wrote in message
...
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


Without having a beter look , I would say that in the plug where the wire
is connected to the prong, there is a loose or high resistance connection.

You usually get heat build up at the bad connections. If the plug can be
taken apart, see if the connection is loose. Unless there is some reason
the whole prong is not making connection all over the plug and socket,
there probably was nothing wrong with the socket except the plug
overheated and caused the burnt spots on the socket.


Thats sounds like a good explanation to me. I would also question the draw
of the appliance. It burned two receptacles and it's not a factory plug.
There is a good possibility that it should be a 20 amp plug and not 15 as
shown




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On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 06:45:36 -0500, "RBM" wrote:


"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
om...

wrote in message
...
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


Without having a beter look , I would say that in the plug where the wire
is connected to the prong, there is a loose or high resistance connection.

You usually get heat build up at the bad connections. If the plug can be
taken apart, see if the connection is loose. Unless there is some reason
the whole prong is not making connection all over the plug and socket,
there probably was nothing wrong with the socket except the plug
overheated and caused the burnt spots on the socket.


Thats sounds like a good explanation to me. I would also question the draw
of the appliance. It burned two receptacles and it's not a factory plug.
There is a good possibility that it should be a 20 amp plug and not 15 as
shown



Good possibility? It is a definite FACT. With the 30 amp rating of the
conditioner,a 20 amp plug would be a requirement. Particularly on a 20
amp circuit.

And I'm still asking if this is a ferro-resonant regulator device.
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We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/




*The circuit may be rated for 20 amps, but the receptacles and plug are not.
Change them both to 20 amps and measure the actual current draw.

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Default Burnt electrical outlet and plug

I agree with G, as far as he went with the explaination.

When electrical current flows, any resistance generates
heat. This could be a faulty plug, faulty socket, or loose
socket that's not making good contact. Or it could be dirt
or corrosion. Replacing both the plug and socket will help,
a lot. Use a good quality socket, and wrap the wires around
the screws (back clamped is OK, back stabbed is not).

Your picture shows one blade overheating. And two identical
sockets overheating. This suggests the problem was in the
plug. Now, the plug and two sockets are damaged and all
three of these need replacing.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..



wrote in message
...

If this was a cheap receptacle, that is the expected result.
Put in a
spec grade receptacle (it will be in a box, not loose in a
bin) and it
should be OK.




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If one goes through all the work to cut a plug off, tin the
ends, put new plug on. I'd think "observing safety
procedures" would include to replace the sockets also. What
happens when a future sexretary decided to plug in a space
heater into a burnt, loose socket?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"den" wrote in message
...
It looks as if someone plugged it into a different socket,
proving
that the low resistance (bad connection) is in the plug.
When taking
apart the plug observe the terminal condition. As mentioned
previously the wire to spade connection was probably
compromised. Cut
off at least 4 inches to find bright copper, install a NEW
plug maybe
soldering, or crimping on a spade, tighten securely, and
plug it into
one of the unburnt sockets. Feel the appliance wire for
abnormal
temperature. Observe any and all safety procedures.


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Perhaps some more research is in order. You sound surprised
that neutral wires carry current. This should be no surprise
at all. It's part of the job description of neutral wires,
to carry current.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"den" wrote in message
...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Do...Type_B_USA.jpg
What is current doing on the NEUTRAL wire!



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Those two outlets look like some drunk gave em a wicked
black eye. Just one man's opinion, but I don't think that's
"OK" to have around. I would not leave those outlets in my
office wall.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


bad connection inside the plug. The outlet is probably ok.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


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On 1/9/2011 10:28 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message
...
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


Without having a beter look , I would say that in the plug where the wire is
connected to the prong, there is a loose or high resistance connection.

You usually get heat build up at the bad connections. If the plug can be
taken apart, see if the connection is loose. Unless there is some reason
the whole prong is not making connection all over the plug and socket,
there probably was nothing wrong with the socket except the plug overheated
and caused the burnt spots on the socket.


That is what I think also. That is an after market plug (note the
screws holding it together). It was not assembled correctly with a poor
connection on the ground side. Replace it and the now damaged outlet.

You can always feel the plug and see if it is unduly warm, always a sign
of a poor connection.

Jeff




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On 1/9/2011 10:26 PM, wrote:
On Jan 9, 7:21 pm,
wrote:
wrote in message

...

We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.


Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/


Thanks


What types of devices to those plugs belong to? Not the outlets. The plugs.


It is connected to a power conditioner which powers some audio
devices.


What kind of power conditioner? Big sucker with a (constant voltage)
transformer in it? Note the posts about reactive loads (more apt to arc
I believe). All that means for you is a better plug and socket, with the
original fault lying in the plug. And perhaps do away with the
conditioner if it is a constant voltage type and your voltage is tolerable.

Jeff

The input to the power conditioner shows it is rated up to
30Amps but we actually do not have that many devices being powered by
this conditioner. So I doubt it is drawing the full 30Amps. Also the
20Amp building fuse would have tripped if the power drain was higher
than 20Amps.


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zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 19:48:28 -0800 (PST), DD_BobK wrote:

On Jan 9, 7:18 pm, " wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...07/5341718398/

Thanks


Bad (high resistance) connection between the plug & receptacle neutral
contacts.

I'm betting that it took a fair amount of time (many months) for the
problem to manifest.

Get a better grade of receptacle & plug.
Make sure that the plug withdrawal force is good.

The fuse (circuit breaker?) never did its job because the amperage
draw was lower than its rating.


This is are arc-fault breakers are supposed to help. I'm with you, though. A
better outlet/plug, properly installed, would have avoided this problem
completely.


If it is a high resistance connection (which it may well be) there is
no arc. One may develop later.

If there is an arc, it is a "series" arc. The original AFCIs won't
detect it; they need an arc of around 50A (line to neutral or ground).
The AFCIs installed 2008 and later can detect a series arc. AFCIs have
only been around since 2002 and only for residential (this is office).
But wait a few years. Required use is creeping like a slow plague in
every NEC revision.

--
bud--
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On 1/10/2011 1:33 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 1/9/2011 9:18 PM, wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


bad connection inside the plug. The outlet is probably ok.


I hate to believe someone actually might not replace the outlets after
they have been overheated so bad. The connection will surely be
corroded and lost most of its spring tension.
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On 1/10/2011 9:13 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Those two outlets look like some drunk gave em a wicked
black eye. Just one man's opinion, but I don't think that's
"OK" to have around. I would not leave those outlets in my
office wall.


Oh come on now, we need to stimulate the economy! Use the old outlets
until the place burns down.


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On Jan 9, 10:18*pm, " wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...07/5341718398/

Thanks


Nowhere that this kind of outlet is used is it legal for a non-
electrician to replace outlets or plugs in an office or workplace.
Have an electrician come in and replace both.

If you don't believe me, ask your insurance agent. Better him than the
adjuster who comes in after something burns down.

I presume the reason you -- er, "someone" -- put an aftermarket plug
on the cord is because the equipment came with a 30A plug, probably a
twistlock. You may think that you've loaded it lightly enough that it
won't draw more than 15A, but you may be wrong. Have the sparky quote
on a proper 30A circuit installation while he's there.

If you do put it all back together in a 15A config, get yourself a
Kill-A-Watt or other current monitor and find out what you're really
drawing. If it's more than 12A continuous, you should not be on a 15A
circuit. Some offices are wired all 12-gauge even on 15A circuits; if
that's the case, depending on length and local regs, your electrician
may be able to swap in a 20A breaker and T-slot receptacle.

Chip C
Toronto

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In article
,
" wrote:

We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks


Been following this thread for a couple of days, and agree with most of
what's been said. But you seem to have an absolute rat's nest of wiring
there. I suggest you hire a licensed, competent electrician to replace
the plug and outlets, and attend to any other FUBAR wiring in the
vicinity. The pics you posted look like a symptom of a much broader
problem.
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On Jan 9, 9:26*pm, " wrote:
On Jan 9, 7:21*pm, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:





wrote in message


....


We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.


Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/


Thanks


What types of devices to those plugs belong to? Not the outlets. The plugs.


It is connected to a power conditioner which powers some audio
devices. The input to the power conditioner shows it is rated up to
30Amps but we actually do not have that many devices being powered by
this conditioner. So I doubt it is drawing the full 30Amps. Also the
20Amp building fuse would have tripped if the power drain was higher
than 20Amps.


Your outlets are 15 amp, not 20. The correct outlet will have a T-
shape plug hole on the hot side. If the breaker is 20 amp and the
wiring is 12 ga, somebody really screwed up.

Joe
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On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 10:39:57 -0800 (PST), Joe wrote:

On Jan 9, 9:26*pm, " wrote:
On Jan 9, 7:21*pm, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:





wrote in message


...


We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.


Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/


Thanks


What types of devices to those plugs belong to? Not the outlets. The plugs.


It is connected to a power conditioner which powers some audio
devices. The input to the power conditioner shows it is rated up to
30Amps but we actually do not have that many devices being powered by
this conditioner. So I doubt it is drawing the full 30Amps. Also the
20Amp building fuse would have tripped if the power drain was higher
than 20Amps.


Your outlets are 15 amp, not 20. The correct outlet will have a T-
shape plug hole on the hot side. If the breaker is 20 amp and the
wiring is 12 ga, somebody really screwed up.


Why do you believe that he needs 20A outlets? The appliance obviously has a
15A plug on it, so it's not intended for more than 15A.


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On 1/10/2011 1:49 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 10:39:57 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Jan 9, 9:26 pm, wrote:
On Jan 9, 7:21 pm,
wrote:





wrote in message

...

We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341105173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54230006@N07/5341718398/

Thanks

What types of devices to those plugs belong to? Not the outlets. The plugs.

It is connected to a power conditioner which powers some audio
devices. The input to the power conditioner shows it is rated up to
30Amps but we actually do not have that many devices being powered by
this conditioner. So I doubt it is drawing the full 30Amps. Also the
20Amp building fuse would have tripped if the power drain was higher
than 20Amps.


Your outlets are 15 amp, not 20. The correct outlet will have a T-
shape plug hole on the hot side. If the breaker is 20 amp and the
wiring is 12 ga, somebody really screwed up.


Why do you believe that he needs 20A outlets? The appliance obviously has a
15A plug on it, so it's not intended for more than 15A.


It looks like an after market plug. We know little about the power
conditioner except that it is rated at 30A. Possibly something like an
RV plug was on it at one time (and what would you plug that in to!). But
I'm just speculating...

Jeff


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Tony Miklos wrote:

On 1/10/2011 2:54 PM, Pete C. wrote:

Tony Miklos wrote:

On 1/10/2011 10:09 AM, Pete C. wrote:

wrote:


Good possibility? It is a definite FACT. With the 30 amp rating of the
conditioner,a 20 amp plug would be a requirement. Particularly on a 20
amp circuit.

Don't assume a 30A rating requires a 30A plug. That rating is the
maximum input current, and you can absolutely change the plug to a lower
rating if the load on the conditioner is less than full load. The
circuit protection is at the panel feeding the receptacle, so if that
receptacle is on a 15A or 20A circuit it is fine. If the load is too
high the breaker will trip.

Look at the pictures. Wouldn't you agree the breaker didn't trip?


We don't know what size breaker is on the circuit. We don't know what
the actual load amperage on the circuit is. It's entirely possible that
a bad connection caused overheating of the contact at well below even a
15A load.


I know that. Are you confirming what I wrote or disputing something?
Read the last sentance of the post up a couple levels.

It reads: If the load is too high the breaker will trip. So if the
breaker didn't trip, then maybe, just maybe someone is wrong when they
say "a 15 or 20 amp circuit is fine". Maybe if it had a 30 amp outlet
it would have made a better connection and never happened?


In the past I have changed 30A plugs on a UPS out for 20A plugs, since
the application had the UPS operating well below it's maximum ratings
(mostly sized for run time). This was perfectly safe since the 20A
receptacle was protected by the 20A circuit breaker, so if someone
improperly added loads to the UPS the breaker would simply trip.

Receptacle contact areas don't dramatically increase with current
rating. Yes, a 60A contact is notable larger than a 15A one, but there
isn't a lot of difference between a 15A and a 30A in many connector
styles (twistlock in particular).

The point here is that this is likely the result of a loose connection
in the plug, and nothing else.
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