My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

My brother looked and he cannot find any electric heaters that size.
It has a fan in addition to the electric element. It also has a
thermal fuse which is open. The thermal fuse says on it:

BOSS
WX|

The last character on the second line looks like a vertical line but
it might be the numeral "1" (one).

I connected it to power for a several seconds. The fan runs at full
speed and the heating element heats up.

I have looked at thermal fuses on eBay. I did not see one that
looks like the one I have. The ones I found had several different
temperature ratings.

Does anyone know what temperature rating I would need? Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"

Daniel Prince wrote:

My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

My brother looked and he cannot find any electric heaters that size.
It has a fan in addition to the electric element. It also has a
thermal fuse which is open. The thermal fuse says on it:

BOSS
WX|

The last character on the second line looks like a vertical line but
it might be the numeral "1" (one).

I connected it to power for a several seconds. The fan runs at full
speed and the heating element heats up.

I have looked at thermal fuses on eBay. I did not see one that
looks like the one I have. The ones I found had several different
temperature ratings.

Does anyone know what temperature rating I would need? Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"


These guys know - they list the 920 heater parts:

http://rienterprisepartsplus.com/nut...ER%20PARTS.htm

"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
...
My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

My brother looked and he cannot find any electric heaters that size.
It has a fan in addition to the electric element. It also has a
thermal fuse which is open. The thermal fuse says on it:

BOSS
WX|

The last character on the second line looks like a vertical line but
it might be the numeral "1" (one).

I connected it to power for a several seconds. The fan runs at full
speed and the heating element heats up.

I have looked at thermal fuses on eBay. I did not see one that
looks like the one I have. The ones I found had several different
temperature ratings.

Does anyone know what temperature rating I would need? Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"


Just spend the $50 or so to buy a new unit. That one has served the
household very well. At least that is the route I took with a 1978 model.



--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

"Colbyt" wrote:


"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
.. .
My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

Just spend the $50 or so to buy a new unit. That one has served the
household very well. At least that is the route I took with a 1978 model.

How do I modify my ceiling to fit the new heater? Do I have to
remove the old 13 inch diameter can? Do I have to cut back the
drywall until I have a rectangular hole with joists on each side?
--
I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. I have
known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets.
They were all gourmands!

In article ,
Daniel Prince wrote:

"Colbyt" wrote:


"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
.. .
My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

Just spend the $50 or so to buy a new unit. That one has served the
household very well. At least that is the route I took with a 1978 model.

How do I modify my ceiling to fit the new heater? Do I have to
remove the old 13 inch diameter can? Do I have to cut back the
drywall until I have a rectangular hole with joists on each side?

Nuts. Your original plan of replacing the fuse is fine. Do it.

In article ,
"Jon Danniken" wrote:

The problem is that thermal fuses don't set themselves off for no reason.
Besides replacing the thermal fuse, you will have to fix whatever problem
caused it to open up in the first place.

Good grief. The thing is 53 yrs. old. Thermal fuses fail for "no reason"
just like any other fuse, or any other thing at all. OP, don't worry
about why the fuse failed. Just replace it and carry on with life. *IF*
the new one fails rapidly - and I seriously doubt that it will, given
your successful bypass test - then you can poke a little deeper.

"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
...
My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

My brother looked and he cannot find any electric heaters that size.
It has a fan in addition to the electric element. It also has a
thermal fuse which is open. The thermal fuse says on it:

Did you contact NuTone Customer Service for assistance at 1-888-336-3948?
They may be able to suggest something . . .

--
Bobby G.

"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
...
"Colbyt" wrote:


"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
. ..
My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

Just spend the $50 or so to buy a new unit. That one has served the
household very well. At least that is the route I took with a 1978 model.

How do I modify my ceiling to fit the new heater? Do I have to
remove the old 13 inch diameter can? Do I have to cut back the
drywall until I have a rectangular hole with joists on each side?
--

The metal can is most likely just the junction box for the heater.

All of these that I have ever seen are surface mounted units. Yours may have
a recessed junction box as mentioned above. You should have drywall under
what you remove.

Here is a link to picture of one:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BRO...FR5?Pid=search

Finding one that is the same size or larger would equal no drywall repair.

Colbyt

On Dec 6, 4:51*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"Daniel Prince" wrote in message

...





"Colbyt" wrote:

"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
. ..
My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. *It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. *It was made in 1957. *It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. *It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

Just spend the $50 or so to buy a new unit. *That one has served the
household very well. *At least that is the route I took with a 1978 model.

How do I modify my ceiling to fit the new heater? *Do I have to
remove the old 13 inch diameter can? *Do I have to cut back the
drywall until I have a rectangular hole with joists on each side?
--

The metal can is most likely just the junction box for the heater.

All of these that I have ever seen are surface mounted units. Yours may have
a recessed junction box as mentioned above. *You should have *drywall under
what you remove.

Here is a link to picture of one:http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BRO...FR5?Pid=search

Finding one that is the same size or larger would equal no drywall repair..

Colbyt- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thermal fuses fatigue fail; after awhile. If you knew the blow
temperature you copuld replace it with a similiar one of the same blow
temp.

Its also possible the fan ouput was low fr any reason. a blocked
exhaust or failing motor. some motors slow when they start to go bad.

also possible is a bad thermostat that allows the heater to get too
hot over time.

line voltage has likely increased over the elderly fans life.

years ago 110 volt was the norm today its about 125 volts.

higher voltage increase the output of the heater elements.

ME? I would replace the heater, its had a very long life...

Incidently I fix machines for a living that use all sorts of heaters.
I am akinda expert on thermal fuses, heaters etc

On Dec 5, 6:01*pm, Daniel Prince wrote:
My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. *It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. *It was made in 1957. *It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. *It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.

My brother looked and he cannot find any electric heaters that size.
It has a fan in addition to the electric element. *It also has a
thermal fuse which is open. *The thermal fuse says on it:

* * * * BOSS
* * * * WX|

The last character on the second line looks like a vertical line but
it might be the numeral "1" (one).

I connected it to power for a several seconds. *The fan runs at full
speed and the heating element heats up.

I have looked at thermal fuses on eBay. *I did not see one that
looks like the one I have. *The ones I found had several different
temperature ratings.

Does anyone know what temperature rating I would need? *Thank you in
advance for all replies.
--
Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy
grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY,
REALLY good. *I'll have some of that!"

If it started working, you do NOT have a thermal fuse, you have a
thermal circuit breaker that opened and then reclosed after some
physical jostling. You should check the fan spins easily and that the
duct work is not clogged. A slow fan or clogged ductwork will cause
over heating and tripping of the thermal circuit breaker.

"Colbyt" wrote:

The metal can is most likely just the junction box for the heater.

All of these that I have ever seen are surface mounted units. Yours may have
a recessed junction box as mentioned above. You should have drywall under
what you remove.

It is NOT surface mounted. I removed the old heater. Most of the
heater was inside the round metal can which is just under 13 inches
in diameter and about 7.75 inches deep. The bottom of the can is
flush with the ceiling drywall. With the heater removed, there is a
big, deep, hole in the ceiling. The hole is the size of a large
cake or a hatbox.
--
I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. I have
known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets.
They were all gourmands!

"hr(bob) " wrote:

If it started working, you do NOT have a thermal fuse, you have a
thermal circuit breaker that opened and then reclosed after some
physical jostling. You should check the fan spins easily and that the
duct work is not clogged. A slow fan or clogged ductwork will cause
over heating and tripping of the thermal circuit breaker.

It started working after I bypassed the thermal fuse. The thermal
fuse is a strip of copper that should be bent over a ceramic arch.
The copper strip is riveted on each side. One side is broken or
melted. The copper strip is now straight and no longer bent so it
does not make contact with the terminal on that side.
--
I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. I have
known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets.
They were all gourmands!

wrote:

hack repair on this might burn down your home. 1957? thats my age.


I wish all I had to worry about was spontaneous human combustion.

On Dec 6, 8:14*pm, Daniel Prince wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote:
The metal can is most likely just the junction box for the heater.

All of these that I have ever seen are surface mounted units. Yours may have
a recessed junction box as mentioned above. *You should have *drywall under
what you remove.

It is NOT surface mounted. *I removed the old heater. *Most of the
heater was inside the round metal can which is just under 13 inches
in diameter and about 7.75 inches deep. *The bottom of the can is
flush with the ceiling drywall. *With the heater removed, there is a
big, deep, hole in the ceiling. *The hole is the size of a large
cake or a hatbox.
--
I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. *I have
known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets. *
They were all gourmands!

was there a vent line on that fan?

wrote:
On Dec 6, 4:51 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"Daniel Prince" wrote in message

...





"Colbyt" wrote:
"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
...
My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.
Just spend the $50 or so to buy a new unit. That one has served the
household very well. At least that is the route I took with a 1978 model.
How do I modify my ceiling to fit the new heater? Do I have to
remove the old 13 inch diameter can? Do I have to cut back the
drywall until I have a rectangular hole with joists on each side?
--
The metal can is most likely just the junction box for the heater.

All of these that I have ever seen are surface mounted units. Yours may have
a recessed junction box as mentioned above. You should have drywall under
what you remove.

Here is a link to picture of one:http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BRO...FR5?Pid=search

Finding one that is the same size or larger would equal no drywall repair.

Colbyt- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thermal fuses fatigue fail; after awhile. If you knew the blow
temperature you copuld replace it with a similiar one of the same blow
temp.

Its also possible the fan ouput was low fr any reason. a blocked
exhaust or failing motor. some motors slow when they start to go bad.

also possible is a bad thermostat that allows the heater to get too
hot over time.

line voltage has likely increased over the elderly fans life.

years ago 110 volt was the norm today its about 125 volts.

higher voltage increase the output of the heater elements.

ME? I would replace the heater, its had a very long life...

Incidently I fix machines for a living that use all sorts of heaters.
I am akinda expert on thermal fuses, heaters etc

So you expertise is to replace anything you come across?
Big solution.
I would run the unit as the OP did,and check around the failed component
for the temperature, and estimate what that would be in summer .
If that value is reasonable,add ~30 degrees, and buy a fuse for that value.
Also check the ventilator.
Scrapping anything you come across is..... ah silly.

In article ,
Sjouke Burry wrote:

I would run the unit as the OP did,and check around the failed component
for the temperature, and estimate what that would be in summer .
If that value is reasonable,add ~30 degrees, and buy a fuse for that value.

OP's question was answered a day or two back. Someone pointed him to the
exact replacement.

On 12/6/2010 8:14 PM, Daniel Prince wrote:
wrote:

The metal can is most likely just the junction box for the heater.

All of these that I have ever seen are surface mounted units. Yours may have
a recessed junction box as mentioned above. You should have drywall under
what you remove.

It is NOT surface mounted. I removed the old heater. Most of the
heater was inside the round metal can which is just under 13 inches
in diameter and about 7.75 inches deep. The bottom of the can is
flush with the ceiling drywall. With the heater removed, there is a
big, deep, hole in the ceiling. The hole is the size of a large
cake or a hatbox.

If you can get to the top side in the attic, putting in a modern square
one is no big deal. Sweep the insulation back, get the old one out, cut
the right-size hole, and mount. I have done it from below, but it is a pain.

--
aem sends...

" wrote:

was there a vent line on that fan?

The heating element is mounted inside of a bowl. There are vents
leading into the room all around the edge of the bowl (between the
edge of the bowl and the edge of the can). The fan is mounted on
the top of the bowl. I think it is supposed to draw air in from one
side of the circle and exhaust it from the other side. There are no
ducts or shrouds around the fan.
--
I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. I have
known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets.
They were all gourmands!

replying to Daniel Prince, mike wrote:
neutrino1 wrote:

My electric bathroom heater has stopped working. It is a NuTone
model 920 heater. It was made in 1957. It fits into a metal can in
the ceiling which is just under 13 inches in diameter. It is rated
as 1,000 watts at 115 volts.
My brother looked and he cannot find any electric heaters that size.
It has a fan in addition to the electric element. It also has a
thermal fuse which is open. The thermal fuse says on it:
BOSS
WX|
The last character on the second line looks like a vertical line but
it might be the numeral "1" (one).
I connected it to power for a several seconds. The fan runs at full
speed and the heating element heats up.
I have looked at thermal fuses on eBay. I did not see one that
looks like the one I have. The ones I found had several different
temperature ratings.
Does anyone know what temperature rating I would need? Thank you in
advance for all replies.


I have the same problem did you ever find a fix or a replacement for this

--

Have been asked to fix this Nutone again, after been sent a free fan unit alledgedly to provide more cfm to keep heater from burning up.

Tech support reported that the heater element was reengineered in 2017 and is now robust and will last.

Others reported installing a 15 minute timer preventing heater element burn out. It will turn off heater but why turn off the needed heater? Lol.

This unit has had the fan motor replaced with a higher cfm rating and is going through a 4th heater element.

Time to either dump and replace this unit or install a separate thermal switch or a timer.

posted for all of us...



Have been asked to fix this Nutone again, after been sent a free fan unit alledgedly to provide more cfm to keep heater from burning up.

Tech support reported that the heater element was reengineered in 2017 and is now robust and will last.

Others reported installing a 15 minute timer preventing heater element burn out. It will turn off heater but why turn off the needed heater? Lol.

This unit has had the fan motor replaced with a higher cfm rating and is going through a 4th heater element.

Time to either dump and replace this unit or install a separate thermal switch or a timer.

And your point is? Does not Nutone have a lifetime warranty?

--
Tekkie