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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

I'm getting a cheap 1000 watt gasoline generator. Is that sufficient
to power a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer in an emergency? I know
those compressors draw a lot of power when they kick in.
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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

dgk wrote:
I'm getting a cheap 1000 watt gasoline generator. Is that sufficient
to power a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer in an emergency? I know
those compressors draw a lot of power when they kick in.


Get a gizmo called "Kill-A-Watt" and discover how much power your fridge
draws when it kicks in.

Further, most generators are rated "xxxx/yyyySurge" where "surge" is the
power available for a short period.


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

"dgk" wrote in message
...
I'm getting a cheap 1000 watt gasoline generator. Is that sufficient
to power a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer in an emergency? I know
those compressors draw a lot of power when they kick in.


Using a device called watts-up (similar to kill-a-watt), I measured my
refrigerator to draw 23 A when the compressor kicks in. However I don't know
how fast this device samples the current. So there may be a spike higher
than 23A.

Adding some inductor and capacitor may help damp this spike.

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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

Most fridge I work on, about 4 to 5 amps, running current. As to start
up. Who can tell? Only way to find out, is try.

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"dgk" wrote in message
...
I'm getting a cheap 1000 watt gasoline generator. Is that sufficient
to power a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer in an emergency? I know
those compressors draw a lot of power when they kick in.


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

In article ,
dgk wrote:

I'm getting a cheap 1000 watt gasoline generator. Is that sufficient
to power a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer in an emergency? I know
those compressors draw a lot of power when they kick in.


Googling "inrush current to a refrigerator" (without quotes) returned
this page:

http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/startingload.html

which has some good information.

1. their test fridge drew 13 amps at startup, about 50% more than your
proposed generator can supply.

2. they also note that the defrost heaters, when they kick in, will draw
significantly more power than the compressor.

3. their rule of thumb for motors is that a 5 h.p. generator can start a
1 h.p. motor (linear 5:1 ratio)

I think 1000 watts is pretty minimal for an emergency unit.


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 04:50:01 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
dgk wrote:

I'm getting a cheap 1000 watt gasoline generator. Is that sufficient
to power a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer in an emergency? I know
those compressors draw a lot of power when they kick in.


Googling "inrush current to a refrigerator" (without quotes) returned
this page:

http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/startingload.html

which has some good information.

1. their test fridge drew 13 amps at startup, about 50% more than your
proposed generator can supply.

2. they also note that the defrost heaters, when they kick in, will draw
significantly more power than the compressor.

3. their rule of thumb for motors is that a 5 h.p. generator can start a
1 h.p. motor (linear 5:1 ratio)

I think 1000 watts is pretty minimal for an emergency unit.



Thanks to all. Yes, it seems like it won't handle it very well, and I
sure don't want to hurt the fridge. I called Fridgedair and they said
1800 watt minimum.

It was one of my more stupid impluse buys. I checked with Home Depot,
Lowes, the local hardware store, Sears, PC Richard, and Best Buy
before giving up on actually finding a relatively inexpensive ($300)
generator locally.

Then I saw an online ad for a ETQ type cheapo and the reviews said
that it handled a fridge with no problem so I just ordered it ($130).
It's due to arrive tomorrow.

Then, of course, I see that my local National Wholesale Liquidator has
a 3300 watt for $288. Worse, PepBoys has an ad for a 3500 for $240.
Both made in China of course but they certainly look like they'll do
the job. No Honda for sure, but I'm not planning on running it very
often.

So I bought the PepBoys one, and I know that will handle the fridge
and the boiler, which are the two things that I really want it for.
And the computer of course.

Either I return the 1000 or I give it as a gift to folks who go
camping, or maybe I can use it for something else, like lending it to
a neighbor during a blackout. Maybe it will run their fridge.
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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

On Nov 30, 7:30*am, dgk wrote:
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 04:50:01 -0800, Smitty Two





wrote:
In article ,
dgk wrote:


I'm getting a cheap 1000 watt gasoline generator. Is that sufficient
to power a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer in an emergency? I know
those compressors draw a lot of power when they kick in.


Googling "inrush current to a refrigerator" (without quotes) returned
this page:


http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/startingload.html


which has some good information.


1. their test fridge drew 13 amps at startup, about 50% more than your
proposed generator can supply.


2. they also note that the defrost heaters, when they kick in, will draw
significantly more power than the compressor.


3. their rule of thumb for motors is that a 5 h.p. generator can start a
1 h.p. motor (linear 5:1 ratio)


I think 1000 watts is pretty minimal for an emergency unit.


Thanks to all. Yes, it seems like it won't handle it very well, and I
sure don't want to hurt the fridge. I called Fridgedair and they said
1800 watt minimum.

It was one of my more stupid impluse buys. I checked with Home Depot,
Lowes, the local hardware store, Sears, PC Richard, and Best Buy
before giving up on actually finding a relatively inexpensive ($300)
generator locally.

Then I saw an online ad for a ETQ type cheapo and the reviews said
that it handled a fridge with no problem so I just ordered it ($130).
It's due to arrive tomorrow.

Then, of course, I see that my local National Wholesale Liquidator has
a 3300 watt for $288. Worse, PepBoys has an ad for a 3500 for $240.
Both made in China of course but they certainly look like they'll do
the job. No Honda for sure, but I'm not planning on running it very
often.

So I bought the PepBoys one, and I know that will handle the fridge
and the boiler, which are the two things that I really want it for.
And the computer of course.

Either I return the 1000 or I give it as a gift to folks who go
camping, or maybe I can use it for something else, like lending it to
a neighbor during a blackout. Maybe it will run their fridge.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


1800W 16 cu ft , I say BS. You didnt test it , a Clamp On Amp Meter
or Kill-A-Watt is 35$ or less and will show you whats really up. None
of my old friges wont start with a 1000w gen, normal running about
350-400w and with defroster on about 6-700. Newer units of the last 15
years run on 120-300w and im talking about 19.5cu up to big double
door units that I have, so I dont believe tech support for your little
16cu ft unit. Why not test it for yourself, you need a good clamp on
amp meter any way to properly know how to safely power any gen. But
you have a bigger problem, you are buying the cheapest stuff you can
and will have issues keeping 3600rpm = 60hz-120v, and those cheapest
units are not honestly rated. but this is another discussion.
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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

I had much the same experience. I saw ETQ online, Ebay. It was about
the same price. I ordered one, and it showed up a couple days later.
The only "real" use I've given mine has been to run a guy's furnace
while his power was off. Big monster of an ancient furnace. The ETQ
did a fine job, ran it with no strain. Mine is also much more quiet
than I'd expected. I've been around other generators which are loud
enough to do hearing damage while they run. The ETQ is quiet enough to
have a conversation, standing next to it. Of course, it's a two
stroke, so you'll need to have gas and oil mixed. The ETQ is light
enough to carry fairly easily, about 55 pounds. I am very pleased with
mine, and hope you are the same. Might be good to have at home, as a
backup in case your bigger generator has a misfunction. In my case,
I'm going to use my ETQ when possible, cause it's light weight, and
quiet. Save the Coleman (about 75 pounds, and larger) for when it's
really needed.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dgk" wrote in message
news
Thanks to all. Yes, it seems like it won't handle it very well, and I
sure don't want to hurt the fridge. I called Fridgedair and they said
1800 watt minimum.

It was one of my more stupid impluse buys. I checked with Home Depot,
Lowes, the local hardware store, Sears, PC Richard, and Best Buy
before giving up on actually finding a relatively inexpensive ($300)
generator locally.

Then I saw an online ad for a ETQ type cheapo and the reviews said
that it handled a fridge with no problem so I just ordered it ($130).
It's due to arrive tomorrow.

Then, of course, I see that my local National Wholesale Liquidator has
a 3300 watt for $288. Worse, PepBoys has an ad for a 3500 for $240.
Both made in China of course but they certainly look like they'll do
the job. No Honda for sure, but I'm not planning on running it very
often.

So I bought the PepBoys one, and I know that will handle the fridge
and the boiler, which are the two things that I really want it for.
And the computer of course.

Either I return the 1000 or I give it as a gift to folks who go
camping, or maybe I can use it for something else, like lending it to
a neighbor during a blackout. Maybe it will run their fridge.


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 08:56:37 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I had much the same experience. I saw ETQ online, Ebay. It was about
the same price. I ordered one, and it showed up a couple days later.
The only "real" use I've given mine has been to run a guy's furnace
while his power was off. Big monster of an ancient furnace. The ETQ
did a fine job, ran it with no strain. Mine is also much more quiet
than I'd expected. I've been around other generators which are loud
enough to do hearing damage while they run. The ETQ is quiet enough to
have a conversation, standing next to it. Of course, it's a two
stroke, so you'll need to have gas and oil mixed. The ETQ is light
enough to carry fairly easily, about 55 pounds. I am very pleased with
mine, and hope you are the same. Might be good to have at home, as a
backup in case your bigger generator has a misfunction. In my case,
I'm going to use my ETQ when possible, cause it's light weight, and
quiet. Save the Coleman (about 75 pounds, and larger) for when it's
really needed.


Good thought. And if I keep both I can help out a neighbor.
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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

On Nov 30, 7:30*am, dgk wrote:
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 04:50:01 -0800, Smitty Two


And the computer of course.


I won't run my computer on a generator, well at least not the common
ones. The Frig, the freezer, even the furnace blower, but not
sensitive electronics, I can wait a day or 2 to check my Email.


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

I make efforts for elderly folks, and the mentally challenged. But,
folks ought to have their own equipment, if they have any brains at
all. I'm not encouraged about "helping out a neighbor" after the
response I've gotten, locally. It is all too easy for people to change
"helping out" to "you are obligated this time because you did it last
time". People are so used to the government doing everything, that
they can be very vengeful and spiteful if you say yes, then yes, then
no. Even if you have a totally good reason for saying no. (Out of
money, out of gas, other generator is broken, you didn't give me gas
money for the last 3 times I helped you.) Doesn't matter what the
reason, people get very angry. I've learned to always ask people to do
some small step first, before I step in. If the people won't do the
little thing, I won't do the big thing.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dgk" wrote in message
...

Good thought. And if I keep both I can help out a neighbor.


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 11:53:24 -0800 (PST), Eric in North TX
wrote:

On Nov 30, 7:30*am, dgk wrote:
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 04:50:01 -0800, Smitty Two


And the computer of course.


I won't run my computer on a generator, well at least not the common
ones. The Frig, the freezer, even the furnace blower, but not
sensitive electronics, I can wait a day or 2 to check my Email.


That's true. But two or three days without TV? Hmm. Actually, I rarely
turn on the TV during the week unless a sport event that I care about
is on.


Anyway, the generator arrived, and is very cute, and the instructions
say not to use it with TV, computers, etc. I was going to just return
it (since I already bought at 3500 watt China special) but it would
cost around $30 just to FedEx it back. So I'll keep it.

Recently I bought an electric (13.5 amp Snow Joe) snow blower. My
property is pretty small so a 50 foot cord from the outside receptacle
would be sufficient and was what I had planned. But, the generator is
light enough that I can actually do the sidewalk down the block for
some of my neighbors. It's almost, but not quite, the same as having
the gas snow blower. Not as strong of course.


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

On Nov 30, 10:55*am, "A. Baum" wrote:
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 05:53:35 -0800, ransley wrote:
1800W 16 cu ft , *I say BS.


I would agree with that being schooled in repair of cooling /
refrigeration my educated guess would be 8 amps startup and about 3 -5
running.


I would agree with you two gentlemen as well. So does "generator
joe".


http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/startingload.html


Scan down to the refrigerator section. It shows a typical fridge
pulling 13 amps for .1 secs at startup, then declining rapidly to
close to it's 3 amp running current by .5 secs. In other words,
while it does take a hefty current of 4X, it only lasts a half
second. In fact, that fridge graph shows that the current is within
the 1000W generator rating in a quarter of a second.

While we don't know for sure, it sounds like that generator is rated
at 1000W operating. If so, one would think that it should be able to
supply 50% more current for a quarter of a second.

The other issue is if it's an automatic defrost model, you have the
defrost heater current when it comes on. According to Wikipedia,
that's about 400W.

As usual, Google is your friend.


The only thing that doesn't make sense to me is in that same link
above, they have a chart of starting WATTS vs running for a variety of
motors, including refrigerators. On that chart, it shows the
starting watts of all the motors to be only marginally higher than the
running watts. Yet, their chart in amps for the fridge and various
other motors, shows the amps being way higher, which I think we all
agree is the correct picture. The only two things I can think of to
account for this apparent disparity is:

1 - They probably measured the starting Watts over some more
substantial time period, ie 1 sec.

2 - Part of it is that because of reactance the voltage and current
are not in phase.
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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

If you don't open the door to much the food will stay cold for hours.
In the winter throw your food in the snow.
Summer---- cook out time !!!!

Jr,


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage




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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

That could be a problem nowadays, because there
are some "sensitive electronics" in the furnace control
board.


On Nov 30, 2:53*pm, Eric in North TX wrote:
On Nov 30, 7:30*am, dgk wrote:

On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 04:50:01 -0800, Smitty Two
And the computer of course.


I won't run my computer on a generator, well at least not the common
ones. The Frig, the freezer, even the furnace blower, but not
sensitive electronics, I can wait a day or 2 to check my Email.


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

On Monday, November 29, 2010 at 12:29:02 PM UTC-8, dgk wrote:
I'm getting a cheap 1000 watt gasoline generator. Is that sufficient
to power a 16 cubic foot refrigerator/freezer in an emergency? I know
those compressors draw a lot of power when they kick in.


i HAVE A 1000 WATT GEN. IT RUNS MY FRIDGE. SOMETIMES AT START UP IT CLIPS, BUT MOST OF THE TIMES ITS FINE. ITS AN OLD FRIDGE 2 DOOR. DRAWS 150 WATTS ONCE RUNNING AND 40 MORE WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN.
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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

replying to ransley, Ramon wrote:
Hi could a sportsman 2000 watts max run a 475 w refrigerator? Thanksfor your
time.

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for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...or-607116-.htm


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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?

On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 11:14:05 PM UTC-4, Ramon wrote:
replying to ransley, Ramon wrote:
Hi could a sportsman 2000 watts max run a 475 w refrigerator? Thanksfor your
time.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...or-607116-.htm


I would say most likely yes. One issue that has been brought up here is
that modern frost-free ones, have a heater for defrost that probably
draws more current than the compressor. But I'd think that likely
falls within your 2000 watts. If that 475w is normal running,
it must be an old one. New ones pull under 100W. I watched a couple
on a Kill-a-Watt meter, they pulled maybe 300W when starting for a
second, then started declining to under 100W after a few minutes.
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Default 1000 watt generator enough for a typical refrigerator?



"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 11:14:05 PM UTC-4, Ramon wrote:
replying to ransley, Ramon wrote:
Hi could a sportsman 2000 watts max run a 475 w refrigerator? Thanksfor
your
time.

--
for full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...or-607116-.htm


I would say most likely yes. One issue that has been brought
up here is that modern frost-free ones, have a heater for defrost


Thats not frost free, thats cyclic defrost, stupid.

that probably draws more current than the compressor. But I'd think
that likely falls within your 2000 watts. If that 475w is normal
running,
it must be an old one. New ones pull under 100W. I watched a couple
on a Kill-a-Watt meter, they pulled maybe 300W when starting for a
second, then started declining to under 100W after a few minutes.




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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Tue, 16 Jul 2019 04:42:12 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


ThatĒs not frost free, thatĒs cyclic defrost, stupid.


In auto-contradicting mode again, you clinically insane 85-year-old senile
pest? BG

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"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:
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