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#1
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Some electrical outlets not working
Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on
individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? |
#2
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Some electrical outlets not working
"al" wrote in message ... Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? It could be that you have an open neutral on an Edison circuit. Check to see if the hot leg is good at the "dead" outlets. If so, look for a common location outlet where the neutral splits off, possibly in a back stabbed outlet. |
#3
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Some electrical outlets not working
"al" wrote in message ... Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Another possibility is that the dead outlets are controlled by wall switches |
#4
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 18, 7:03*am, "RBM" wrote:
"al" wrote in message ... Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. *Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. *They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. *I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. *Any idea what would cause this? Another possibility is that the dead outlets are controlled by wall switches None of the outlets is controlled by wall switches. However, the lights on those affected locations just came on. I wish I could say that I did something to make that happen, but I wasn't doing anything but sitting reading the paper. |
#5
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Some electrical outlets not working
"al" wrote in message ... On Nov 18, 7:03 am, "RBM" wrote: "al" wrote in message ... Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Another possibility is that the dead outlets are controlled by wall switches None of the outlets is controlled by wall switches. However, the lights on those affected locations just came on. I wish I could say that I did something to make that happen, but I wasn't doing anything but sitting reading the paper. Sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere in the circuit. I would tap with the back of my hand on each of the affected outlets and see if the tapping causes the lights to flicker or go out again. If it does, the location where you tapped is where the loose connection is. One thing you can be sure of, it will occur again. |
#6
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 18, 7:26*am, "RBM" wrote:
"al" wrote in message ... On Nov 18, 7:03 am, "RBM" wrote: "al" wrote in message .... Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Another possibility is that the dead outlets are controlled by wall switches None of the outlets is controlled by wall switches. However, the lights on those affected locations just came on. *I wish I could say that I did something to make that happen, but I wasn't doing anything but sitting reading the paper. Sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere in the circuit. I would tap with the back of my hand on each of the affected outlets and see if the tapping causes the lights to flicker or go out again. If it does, the location where you tapped is where the loose connection is. One thing you can be sure of, it will occur again. Also possible that one hot leg of his service is intermittent and he's losing power to the circuits on that side. |
#7
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Some electrical outlets not working
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#8
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Some electrical outlets not working
The case of the Mysterious Ghostly Backstabbed Outlets.
By A. Conan Doyle. A couple friends of mine had that happen. They insisted I didn't need to take "that" outlet apart, cause it worked just fine. I had a hard time explaining. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. wrote in message ... It can be a bad connection on the last outlet that works (outgoing side) Plug a radio with the volume all the way up in a non-working outlet and bang on the ones nearby. When you hear the radio squawk you found it. |
#10
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 18, 11:05*pm, wrote:
You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. |
#11
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Some electrical outlets not working
"al" wrote in message ... On Nov 18, 11:05 pm, wrote: You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. Whole different story. It's not just a few outlets on different fuses. You have a main leg out. It may be a defective main service breaker or a bad connection anywhere from that point back to the utility company transformer |
#12
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Some electrical outlets not working
"al" wrote in message
... On Nov 18, 11:05 pm, wrote: You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. Now it definitely sounds like a problem located somewhere between the circuit panel (fuses? really? Where are you located?) and the utility pole. My guess is that the connection to one of the hot bus bars is intermittent and as the box heats and cools, the connection makes and breaks from the different expansion rates between the wire and the clamping device. I've found those sorts of failures appear often in the spring and fall, when temperatures shift widely. Could be as simple as knowing what screw to twist. This is where you have to evaluate your competence to work on 240VAC systems and decide whether it's time to call an electrician. I'd be hiring one to install a circuit breaker panel if I were you, and probably to heavy up the whole installation. Last time I saw a fuse panel was in a house that had only a 60A feeder. Way too little for modern life, IMHO. The only thing good about fuses is that they prevent people from using them improperly as ON/OFF switches the way too many people do with circuit breakers. You can, of course, unscrew the fuse if you want to use it as a switch, but that's not potentially destructive to the safety capabilty of the fuse. At least not the way using a circuit breaker as a switch is. -- Bobby G. |
#13
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 19, 5:26*am, al wrote:
On Nov 18, 11:05*pm, wrote: You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. And you mean they used to heat and now don't? And they are both are electric appliances? The microwave is 110v so it does not count. Typical houses are served from the outside by 2 hot wires and 1 neutral. 110v things like wall outlets and lighting are connected to one or the other of the hot wires and the neutral. Big appliances like electric dryers, electric hot water, use 220v and they get that by being hooked to both hots. When one of the two hots from outside stops working then some of the 110v circuits like lighst and outlets stop working. Also all the 220v appliances stop working. If your problems are gone now it may have been tha the power company was working on something in your area and now it's fixed. It also may be that you have a loose connection somewhere near the meter or fuse box where the two hots come in. |
#14
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 19, 7:58*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Nov 19, 5:26*am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 11:05*pm, wrote: You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. And you mean they used to heat and now don't? *And they are both are electric appliances? *The microwave is 110v so it does not count. Typical houses are served from the outside by 2 hot wires and 1 neutral. *110v things like wall outlets and lighting are connected to one or the other of the hot wires and the neutral. *Big appliances like electric dryers, electric hot water, use 220v and they get that by being hooked to both hots. When one of the two hots from outside stops working then some of the 110v circuits like lighst and outlets stop working. *Also all the 220v appliances stop working. If your problems are gone now it may have been tha the power company was working on something in your area and now it's fixed. *It also may be that you have a loose connection somewhere near the meter or fuse box where the two hots come in. Yes they used to work and now they don't. I hadn't checked the dryer or the HW heater until I read the post inquiring about that last night. Lights are also dimming periodically. 60 amp service was upgraded to 200 a few years ago with central A/C install. Electric company inspected yesterday and ruled out their equipment as the source of the problem. Said it is a "neutral" problem. So I stopped tapping outlets and changing fuses and called a contractor who will be here shortly to take a look. Thanks for all the input. |
#15
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 18, 6:42*am, al wrote:
Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. *Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. *They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. *I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. *Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. I just checked the round screw in fuses. Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. |
#16
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 10:11:38 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote: In article , jamesgangnc wrote: Estimates for replacing a fuse box can go as high as $1000 so don't be shocked. Was that a pun? There is nothing unsafe about fuses and now that you understand what happens when one o fthe mains goes you're really covered at this point. I agree that there isn't anything inherently unsafe about fuses, but not everyone sees it that way. I bought a run-down house in another city a few years back. I've actually never seen it, only pictures. In the listing details, appearance was described as "poor." I didn't think I'd be able to get financing, but my agent said I could get a "drive-by" appraisal if I put 25% down on the house. Their were only two things that needed to be verified: 1. The house existed. 2. The original equipment fusebox on the outside wall had been replaced at some time by a breaker box. (Here's a pic of the place my agent sent me in 2007, just before I bought it http://members.cox.net/prestwich/ahr1440.jpg Is that little shack a duplex, or does it just have 2 front doors?? |
#17
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Some electrical outlets not working
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#18
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 19, 3:08*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 06:38:41 -0500, "Robert Green" wrote: "al" wrote in message .... On Nov 18, 11:05 pm, wrote: You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. Now it definitely sounds like a problem located somewhere between the circuit panel (fuses? *really? *Where are you located?) and the utility pole. *My guess is that the connection to one of the hot bus bars is intermittent and as the box heats and cools, the connection makes and breaks from the different expansion rates between the wire and the clamping device. I've found those sorts of failures appear often in the spring and fall, when temperatures shift widely. *Could be as simple as knowing what screw to twist. This is where you have to evaluate your competence to work on 240VAC systems and decide whether it's time to call an electrician. *I'd be hiring one to install a circuit breaker panel if I were you, and probably to heavy up the whole installation. *Last time I saw a fuse panel was in a house that had only a 60A feeder. *Way too little for modern life, IMHO. The only thing good about fuses is that they prevent people from using them improperly as ON/OFF switches the way too many people do with circuit breakers. *You can, of course, unscrew the fuse if you want to use it as a switch, but that's not potentially destructive to the safety capabilty of the fuse. *At least not the way using a circuit breaker as a switch is.. *Well, there were LOTS of 200 amp fuse panels installed, and I have a 100 amp fuse panel innmy house. Fuses are a lot more reliable than breakers. Fewer "nuisance trips", although fuses can fail from age/heat cycling/fatigue - and virtually no chance of "sticking" and failing to trip when required. They are a nuiscnae when they do blow - you need to have the right value fuse within ready reach, and a flashlight next to the panel is always a good idea.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - We rented a condo down in miami a few times and they left instructions to flip the breakers on for the hot water and the hvac when you arrived and flip them off when you left. I thought about telling them that was going to bite them but most people really don't like unsolicited advice. |
#19
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Some electrical outlets not working
In article ,
wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 10:11:38 -0800, Smitty Two wrote: In article , jamesgangnc wrote: Estimates for replacing a fuse box can go as high as $1000 so don't be shocked. Was that a pun? There is nothing unsafe about fuses and now that you understand what happens when one o fthe mains goes you're really covered at this point. I agree that there isn't anything inherently unsafe about fuses, but not everyone sees it that way. I bought a run-down house in another city a few years back. I've actually never seen it, only pictures. In the listing details, appearance was described as "poor." I didn't think I'd be able to get financing, but my agent said I could get a "drive-by" appraisal if I put 25% down on the house. Their were only two things that needed to be verified: 1. The house existed. 2. The original equipment fusebox on the outside wall had been replaced at some time by a breaker box. (Here's a pic of the place my agent sent me in 2007, just before I bought it http://members.cox.net/prestwich/ahr1440.jpg Is that little shack a duplex, or does it just have 2 front doors?? It has two front doors. It used to be the train station in that town, so I'm told. Don't know when it was converted to a house, or how much remodeling was done at the time. |
#20
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Some electrical outlets not working
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
... On Nov 19, 3:08 pm, wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 06:38:41 -0500, "Robert Green" wrote: "al" wrote in message ... On Nov 18, 11:05 pm, wrote: You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. Now it definitely sounds like a problem located somewhere between the circuit panel (fuses? really? Where are you located?) and the utility pole. My guess is that the connection to one of the hot bus bars is intermittent and as the box heats and cools, the connection makes and breaks from the different expansion rates between the wire and the clamping device. I've found those sorts of failures appear often in the spring and fall, when temperatures shift widely. Could be as simple as knowing what screw to twist. This is where you have to evaluate your competence to work on 240VAC systems and decide whether it's time to call an electrician. I'd be hiring one to install a circuit breaker panel if I were you, and probably to heavy up the whole installation. Last time I saw a fuse panel was in a house that had only a 60A feeder. Way too little for modern life, IMHO. The only thing good about fuses is that they prevent people from using them improperly as ON/OFF switches the way too many people do with circuit breakers. You can, of course, unscrew the fuse if you want to use it as a switch, but that's not potentially destructive to the safety capabilty of the fuse. At least not the way using a circuit breaker as a switch is. Well, there were LOTS of 200 amp fuse panels installed, and I have a 100 amp fuse panel innmy house. Fuses are a lot more reliable than breakers. Fewer "nuisance trips", although fuses can fail from age/heat cycling/fatigue - and virtually no chance of "sticking" and failing to trip when required. They are a nuiscnae when they do blow - you need to have the right value fuse within ready reach, and a flashlight next to the panel is always a good idea.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - We rented a condo down in miami a few times and they left instructions to flip the breakers on for the hot water and the hvac when you arrived and flip them off when you left. I thought about telling them that was going to bite them but most people really don't like unsolicited advice. "It looks like a switch, so it *must* be a switch" is the attitude a lot of people take when using a breaker as a switch but it's really not a good idea. -- Bobby G. |
#21
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 12:15:30 -0800 (PST), jamesgangnc
wrote: On Nov 19, 3:08Â*pm, wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 06:38:41 -0500, "Robert Green" wrote: "al" wrote in message ... On Nov 18, 11:05 pm, wrote: You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. Now it definitely sounds like a problem located somewhere between the circuit panel (fuses? Â*really? Â*Where are you located?) and the utility pole. Â*My guess is that the connection to one of the hot bus bars is intermittent and as the box heats and cools, the connection makes and breaks from the different expansion rates between the wire and the clamping device. I've found those sorts of failures appear often in the spring and fall, when temperatures shift widely. Â*Could be as simple as knowing what screw to twist. This is where you have to evaluate your competence to work on 240VAC systems and decide whether it's time to call an electrician. Â*I'd be hiring one to install a circuit breaker panel if I were you, and probably to heavy up the whole installation. Â*Last time I saw a fuse panel was in a house that had only a 60A feeder. Â*Way too little for modern life, IMHO. The only thing good about fuses is that they prevent people from using them improperly as ON/OFF switches the way too many people do with circuit breakers. Â*You can, of course, unscrew the fuse if you want to use it as a switch, but that's not potentially destructive to the safety capabilty of the fuse. Â*At least not the way using a circuit breaker as a switch is. Â*Well, there were LOTS of 200 amp fuse panels installed, and I have a 100 amp fuse panel innmy house. Fuses are a lot more reliable than breakers. Fewer "nuisance trips", although fuses can fail from age/heat cycling/fatigue - and virtually no chance of "sticking" and failing to trip when required. They are a nuiscnae when they do blow - you need to have the right value fuse within ready reach, and a flashlight next to the panel is always a good idea.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - We rented a condo down in miami a few times and they left instructions to flip the breakers on for the hot water and the hvac when you arrived and flip them off when you left. I thought about telling them that was going to bite them but most people really don't like unsolicited advice. SOME breakers ARE rated to use as switches. MANY industrial/commercial installations have no light switches - the lighting circuits are controlled by the circuit breakers in the sub-panels. Breakers designed for this service are identified with a label reading "swd" for "switch duty". There are also "fld" breakers designed to SWITCH Flourescent lighting loads. A "swd" breaker for the hot water would be quite acceptable. In the past HVAC units would use a "HACR" breaker. - but virtually all normal breakers today pass the test for the old "hacr" standard - so a "swd" breaker could be used for the AC too. MOST GOOD breakers today are SWD, and many are also FLD |
#22
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Some electrical outlets not working
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#23
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Some electrical outlets not working
On 11/19/2010 12:40 PM, Red Green wrote:
Smitty wrote in news In article , wrote: Estimates for replacing a fuse box can go as high as $1000 so don't be shocked. Was that a pun? There is nothing unsafe about fuses and now that you understand what happens when one o fthe mains goes you're really covered at this point. I agree that there isn't anything inherently unsafe about fuses, but not everyone sees it that way. I bought a run-down house in another city a few years back. I've actually never seen it, only pictures. In the listing details, appearance was described as "poor." I didn't think I'd be able to get financing, but my agent said I could get a "drive-by" appraisal if I put 25% down on the house. Their were only two things that needed to be verified: 1. The house existed. 2. The original equipment fusebox on the outside wall had been replaced at some time by a breaker box. (Here's a pic of the place my agent sent me in 2007, just before I bought it http://members.cox.net/prestwich/ahr1440.jpg The only thing missing is an old woman sittin' in the chair with a shotgun and a bloodhound at her side. I heard banjo music when the page came up. 8-) TDD |
#24
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 19, 2:12*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 10:11:38 -0800, Smitty Two wrote: In article , jamesgangnc wrote: Estimates for replacing a fuse box can go as high as $1000 so don't be shocked. Was that a pun? There is nothing unsafe about fuses and now that you understand what happens when one o fthe mains goes you're really covered at this point. I agree that there isn't anything inherently unsafe about fuses, but not everyone sees it that way. I bought a run-down house in another city a few years back. I've actually never seen it, only pictures. In the listing details, appearance was described as "poor." I didn't think I'd be able to get financing, but my agent said I could get a "drive-by" appraisal if I put 25% down on the house. Their were only two things that needed to be verified: 1. The house existed. 2. The original equipment fusebox on the outside wall had been replaced at some time by a breaker box. (Here's a pic of the place my agent sent me in 2007, just before I bought it http://members.cox.net/prestwich/ahr1440.jpg *Is that little shack a duplex, or does it just have 2 front doors??- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - With the color of the shack, there were probably two hispanic extended families living there. |
#25
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Some electrical outlets not working
wrote:
On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:42:25 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: On Nov 19, 8:32 am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 6:42 am, al wrote: Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. I just checked the round screw in fuses. Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. Thanks for your closure to this, we all learned something. Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" The lights may sometimes work because they are powered from the other leg through a 220V load like a water heater. I would not bet that the fuse "just failed". A loose connection near the fuse can generate heat to blow the fuse at lower than its rated current. With a loose connection you may see flickering lights. -- bud-- |
#26
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 10:05:17 -0600, bud--
wrote: wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:42:25 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: On Nov 19, 8:32 am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 6:42 am, al wrote: Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. I just checked the round screw in fuses. Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. Thanks for your closure to this, we all learned something. Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" The lights may sometimes work because they are powered from the other leg through a 220V load like a water heater. I would not bet that the fuse "just failed". A loose connection near the fuse can generate heat to blow the fuse at lower than its rated current. With a loose connection you may see flickering lights. I have seen many fuses "just fail" over the last 50 years, both automotive and "mains". And like incandescent (filament) lamps, I've seen them "mend" themselves temporarily - sometimes several times, before final total failure. An intermittent "failed" fuse can really be a bugger when troubleshooting an intermittent electrical problem. |
#27
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Some electrical outlets not working
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#28
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 20, 11:05*am, bud-- wrote:
wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:42:25 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: On Nov 19, 8:32 am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 6:42 am, al wrote: Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. *Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. *They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. *I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. *Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. * Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. *I just checked the round screw in fuses. *Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. *Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. *Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. Thanks for your closure to this, we all learned something. *Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" The lights may sometimes work because they are powered from the other leg through a 220V load like a water heater. I would not bet that the fuse "just failed". A loose connection near the fuse can generate heat to blow the fuse at lower than its rated current. With a loose connection you may see flickering lights. -- bud-- Further investigation is going to be necessary, because last night I did notice that lights were dimming, almost imperceptibly. And not necessarily just the ones on the aforementioned affected outlets. |
#29
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 08:50:26 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote: In article , wrote: I have seen many fuses "just fail" over the last 50 years, both automotive and "mains". And like incandescent (filament) lamps, I've seen them "mend" themselves temporarily - sometimes several times, before final total failure. An intermittent "failed" fuse can really be a bugger when troubleshooting an intermittent electrical problem. Failed fuses don't mend themselves. However, a common automotive failure is intermittent connections behind the fusebox. Pulling and replacing a fuse restores the connection, for a minute, day, or week. I beg to differ. The fuses can arc weld themselves back together and work for a while, then re-fracture. Depending on temperature changes etc, this MAY happen more than once, but even once is a rare occurrence. Rare, but it happens. On most current automotive fuse boxes there are no "connections" behind the fusebox that would be influenced by removing the fuse. - and replacing the fuse invariably solves the problem - often for the remaining life of the vehicle. Same thing happens in fused distribution panels - both with plug fuses (the round glass screw-in common fuse) and with cartridge fuses, on occaision. Bump the fuse, or have the temperature go up a few degrees, and the fuse makes contact again, allowing light loads to operate. Sometimes they will "weld" themselves and not cause a problem again for several days. Looking at the fuse there is no sign that there is anything wrong - but sometimes if you tap the fuse in the dark you will see a faint blue arc inside the fuse body, and a light connected to the circuit will either flicker off, or faintly flicker on.. In automotive systems., I have seen it much more often in the old tubular fuses than it the ATO type - but I've seen it with an ATO as well. Nothing like seeing the failure LED on an indicator type fuse flicker randomly in the fusebox when you are trying to trace down an intermittent electrical problem. Since most automotive fuses are NOT indicator fuses, the cause is not often as obvious as the intermittent radio problem on that car. |
#30
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Nov 19, 12:40*pm, Red Green wrote:
snip Their were only two things that needed to be verified: 1. The house existed. 2. The original equipment fusebox on the outside wall had been replaced at some time by a breaker box. (Here's a pic of the place my agent sent me in 2007, just before I bought it snip The only thing missing is an old woman sittin' in the chair with a shotgun and a bloodhound at her side. But wait...The other thing missing is the gas engine powered Maytag washer that such an upscale mansion would have. Joe |
#31
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Some electrical outlets not working
Robert Green wrote: "jamesgangnc" wrote in message ... On Nov 19, 3:08 pm, wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 06:38:41 -0500, "Robert Green" wrote: "al" wrote in message ... On Nov 18, 11:05 pm, wrote: You can break that tie real quick, does the dryer get hot (or some other 240v appliance)? Neither the dryer nor the hot water heater is heating and the microwave is worthless. Now it definitely sounds like a problem located somewhere between the circuit panel (fuses? really? Where are you located?) and the utility pole. My guess is that the connection to one of the hot bus bars is intermittent and as the box heats and cools, the connection makes and breaks from the different expansion rates between the wire and the clamping device. I've found those sorts of failures appear often in the spring and fall, when temperatures shift widely. Could be as simple as knowing what screw to twist. This is where you have to evaluate your competence to work on 240VAC systems and decide whether it's time to call an electrician. I'd be hiring one to install a circuit breaker panel if I were you, and probably to heavy up the whole installation. Last time I saw a fuse panel was in a house that had only a 60A feeder. Way too little for modern life, IMHO. The only thing good about fuses is that they prevent people from using them improperly as ON/OFF switches the way too many people do with circuit breakers. You can, of course, unscrew the fuse if you want to use it as a switch, but that's not potentially destructive to the safety capabilty of the fuse. At least not the way using a circuit breaker as a switch is. Well, there were LOTS of 200 amp fuse panels installed, and I have a 100 amp fuse panel innmy house. Fuses are a lot more reliable than breakers. Fewer "nuisance trips", although fuses can fail from age/heat cycling/fatigue - and virtually no chance of "sticking" and failing to trip when required. They are a nuiscnae when they do blow - you need to have the right value fuse within ready reach, and a flashlight next to the panel is always a good idea.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - We rented a condo down in miami a few times and they left instructions to flip the breakers on for the hot water and the hvac when you arrived and flip them off when you left. I thought about telling them that was going to bite them but most people really don't like unsolicited advice. "It looks like a switch, so it *must* be a switch" is the attitude a lot of people take when using a breaker as a switch but it's really not a good idea. A lot of circuit breakers are specifically rated for switching duty, and it is very common in industrial facilities like warehouses for the circuit breakers to double as the light switches. |
#32
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Some electrical outlets not working
wrote in message
... On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:42:25 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: On Nov 19, 8:32 am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 6:42 am, al wrote: Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. I just checked the round screw in fuses. Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. Thanks for your closure to this, we all learned something. Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" I don't know how you can say that without examining the fuse close up. Sounds like it may have crumbled from excessive heating from carrying too much of a load. Only a hands-on inspection will determine that, and it would probably mean cutting open the fuse to determine the failure mode. Don't raise alarms where none are warranted. Jumpin I would say *exactly* the reverse is true when dealing a lethal entity like 240VAC where a main fuse has failed and with so many other unknowns. Not being concerned enough might lead to a similar set of circumstances where a badly manufactured Chinese replacement fuse FAILS to blow and there's a meltdown as a result. A blown fuse is a warning that something's wrong. Assuming it's just a failed fuse and moving on seems to be bordering on terribly careless. Each to his own, I guess. FWIW, hearing about a fusebox in a home in this day and age raises an alarm in my head that there's a potential overload situation. While fuse panels of 200A certainly exist, every *residential* fuse panel I've ever seen in the NE USA was a four banger with 15A screw-ins and a 60A total rating. I realize that experience is terribly limited, but regardless, a blown main fuse is not something to take lightly. I don't know what the rules are up in the "Great White Way" or in other parts of the US, but I assume one of the safety reasons for switching to breakers is that they are much harder to override with pennies or aluminum foil. Not sure what the NEC has to say about installing new 200A service with screw-in fuses in the USA and I certainly know that my limited experience does not even speak for the USA NE - just the houses whose panels I have seen. All I know is when a fuse protecting an entire incoming phase fails, an investigation is warranted to determine the cause. Assuming it's simply a bad fuse is bad troubleshooting. In this case, caution is especially called for because we just don't have the information necessary from the OP to make a good call. We have no information at all about the daily peak load he's putting on the panel, either. We don't have a picture of the panel with the cover off, which can often tell you what kind of workmanship is involved or if the wiring is shoddy or deteriorating. I recall seeing one poster here show us a picture of his circuit box with all of the single wires laid out as neatly as the strings of a harp! I had never seen and will probably never again see such incredibly precise work - I wish I could remember the dude's name - when you see workmanship like that, you can usually discount poor wiring - but I digress. With all the unknowns, it seems far more prudent to raise a caution flag than to give him the green light and say "bad fuse, replace and fuggedaboutit." The part of this that really gives me pause is that he reported that it's an intermittent fault. Yes, fuses, light bulbs and most anything electrical can fail that way, but when a safety device fails, it's far more serious than a light bulb failure. When the fuse protecting an entire leg fails, I consider that especially serious because it can easily indicate too much current is flowing through that leg, something that individual circuit fuses will not catch. If the box and wiring are in reasonably good shape, and the load is not over about 80% (70% is better) no problem. The truth is that we don't know a whit about either of those big IFS in this case. We don't know how well the loads are balanced in the house - many times one leg is bearing much more of the load than the other. That can be simply plugging in space heaters into the "wrong" outlets. In a house with a bigger circuit panel than the feeders dictate, that can happen easily. I've seen more than one "heavy up" that didn't include an appropriate upgrade from the feeder. All we know here is that one leg of the incoming power lines had an intermittent, not quite completely failed fuse. We know very little else. (Since writing this, the OP has added a post indicating that he's got 200A circuit panel but we don't know if it's really 200A service or a 200A box sitting on 60A feeder lines.) With no ability to go onsite, we've got a barrel full of IFs that raise the caution flag. Yes, I agree with you that fuses do fail from inherent vice but IMHO *every* fuse failure or circuit breaker pop warrants an investigation to find out what popped it. In this case, I would be looking at the total KWh's used monthly in relation to the size of the panel and also whether the panel was properly balanced with each leg carrying as close to half the load as possible. I'd turn everything in the house on and get out my tong meter to see what branch circuits were carrying in terms of load. I'd visually inspect the outside feeders to make sure they were sized for 200A and not 60 or 100. IIRC, the panel should be sized so that even if every device in the house is running, the main fuse won't blow. I am not sure that's the case here. We also know fuses fail in multiple ways: in addition to failing intermittently or "popping" correctly in an overload, they can also fail to blow and thus not protect the wiring. That's an extremely hazardous situation. If the two fuses for each leg are of the same vintage, I would replace both of them if I wasn't going to heavy up the panel and the load appeared to be well-balanced. My best guess, from the limited facts we've been presented, is that the load is too great for the panel and that one leg was carrying a heavier share of the load than the other, causing the fuse on that leg to deteriorate and partially fail. But in reality, we don't even really know whether the fuse was bad. Replacing a fuse in a loose fuse holder could jiggle bad electrical connections just enough so that the intermittent disappears for a while. We can't know that unless somebody actually checks the dead fuse with an ohmmeter and carefully inspects the connections coming from the pole. Running a cartridge fuse hot for a long enough time could easily cause serious deterioration. If that leg's overloaded, simply replacing the fuse could lead to tragedy, especially if the bad fuse is replaced with one that doesn't operate at its rated load, but higher than rated. And before you say that's unlikely, consider that you're the one saying we're dealing with a bad fuse to begin with. (-: Who's to say, without an examination, whether that intermittent fuse *should* have opened completely but didn't? I've seen people ask very "shocking" questions, that indicate a lack of knowledge about electrical work. My favorite is whether it's OK to use a ground as a neutral. These kinds of comments lead me to almost always err on the side of caution when giving advice on the net, especially with things that have the lethality potential of possibly overloaded circuit panel. There's almost *never* enough information given by the OP to make a clear call. That's just the nature of Usenet. In my limited experience, it's far too common for people to add circuits without thinking about the total load. I'm partially guilty of that crime. I've added the skinny "two in one" breakers to my house that have the potential to overload the main fuse if I run every circuit to capacity. I definitely should have heavied up the incoming feeders to meet code but I added the new circuits not to draw more juice, but to replace the old cloth covered circuits one-by-one with 12/2 romex w/ground and GFCI protection. I left the all the old circuits in place because they serve porch and overhead lights that would have required major demolition to replace. Now, almost all the large loads like space heaters and window ACs run off 20A grounded circuits. I've got sensors on the incoming feeders that connect to my HomeVision controller to let me know the overall current draw on each phase. I used that information to switch circuits around until they were balanced, at least for the static large loads. I monitor it periodically to ensure the loads have stayed balanced. I have a lot more breakers than I should, but the overall load has not changed - it's just been redistributed and rebalanced so each leg shares the load as well as I could balance it. The only difference in the overall load occurs at peak cooking times. One of the reasons for the rewire was to add an XTB coupler/repeater/amp for my X-10 stuff, and more importantly, to be able to use the microwave, the toaster oven and the refrigerator in this 70 year old house without blowing a breaker. That's not going to put a strain on the main fuses for each incoming leg because the kitchen outlets are served by different phases, a trick I learned right here in AHR. Unfortunately, that's not the case in many other installations where there are too many circuits drawing from one phase and overloading it. I don't think replacing a fuse is going to get the OP off the hook. It could still be something like a bad connection to the main feeder in the circuit panel that's heating up and heating the fuse, too. Again, only an on-site inspection will reveal things like that. I hope the OP continues to post his progress in running the problem to ground. (Electrical pun!) My money's on something other than the fuse being defective. There's something rotten in Denmark (do we even know where the OP lives, BTW?). -- Bobby G. |
#33
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Some electrical outlets not working
"bud--" wrote in message
.. . wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:42:25 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: On Nov 19, 8:32 am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 6:42 am, al wrote: Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. I just checked the round screw in fuses. Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. Thanks for your closure to this, we all learned something. Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" The lights may sometimes work because they are powered from the other leg through a 220V load like a water heater. I would not bet that the fuse "just failed". That's certainly my take on it, but there's always the possibility of "inherent vice." If it were my problem, I'd be examining that fuse with a both an ohm meter and a Dremel tool. I'd probably hook it up to an audible continuity meter with sturdy spring-type battery clamps connected to each end so I could shake it, pound it, put it in the freezer for a while and heat with a heat gun to see what, if anything, allowed current to pass before I sliced it open to see how cooked it was. A loose connection near the fuse can generate heat to blow the fuse at lower than its rated current. With a loose connection you may see flickering lights. That's a very good point. With the high possibility that the fuse holder has metal parts with dissimilar coefficients of expansion, an intermittent based on changing temperatures from a loose connection is a very likely possibility, IMHO. We had a disposal problem that only showed up in the spring and fall. It would kick off, and then restart, usually when you jiggled the switch. Turned out to be a bad backstab connection that flaked out every time it got suddenly cold outside (the switch and outlet is was linked to were on an outside north-facing wall). Since circuit panels are often located near outside walls and are typically not well insulated, I believe as you do that a loose connection to the fuse could be the real problem here. Especially now that the OP has reported that the lights are still flickering. That's no bad fuse, I'm afraid. Hopefully the OP will keep us updated . . . -- Bobby G. |
#34
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 20:34:53 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote: "bud--" wrote in message . .. wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:42:25 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: On Nov 19, 8:32 am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 6:42 am, al wrote: Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. I just checked the round screw in fuses. Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. Thanks for your closure to this, we all learned something. Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" The lights may sometimes work because they are powered from the other leg through a 220V load like a water heater. I would not bet that the fuse "just failed". That's certainly my take on it, but there's always the possibility of "inherent vice." If it were my problem, I'd be examining that fuse with a both an ohm meter and a Dremel tool. I'd probably hook it up to an audible continuity meter with sturdy spring-type battery clamps connected to each end so I could shake it, pound it, put it in the freezer for a while and heat with a heat gun to see what, if anything, allowed current to pass before I sliced it open to see how cooked it was. A loose connection near the fuse can generate heat to blow the fuse at lower than its rated current. With a loose connection you may see flickering lights. That's a very good point. With the high possibility that the fuse holder has metal parts with dissimilar coefficients of expansion, an intermittent based on changing temperatures from a loose connection is a very likely possibility, IMHO. We had a disposal problem that only showed up in the spring and fall. It would kick off, and then restart, usually when you jiggled the switch. Turned out to be a bad backstab connection that flaked out every time it got suddenly cold outside (the switch and outlet is was linked to were on an outside north-facing wall). Since circuit panels are often located near outside walls and are typically not well insulated, I believe as you do that a loose connection to the fuse could be the real problem here. Especially now that the OP has reported that the lights are still flickering. That's no bad fuse, I'm afraid. Hopefully the OP will keep us updated . . . In this case I'll have to agree. Replacing the fuse did not totally solve the problem, so the fuse was a symptom, not the cause. |
#35
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 20:04:45 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote: wrote in message .. . On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:42:25 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: On Nov 19, 8:32 am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 6:42 am, al wrote: Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. I just checked the round screw in fuses. Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. Thanks for your closure to this, we all learned something. Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" I don't know how you can say that without examining the fuse close up. Sounds like it may have crumbled from excessive heating from carrying too much of a load. Only a hands-on inspection will determine that, and it would probably mean cutting open the fuse to determine the failure mode. Don't raise alarms where none are warranted. Jumpin I would say *exactly* the reverse is true when dealing a lethal entity like 240VAC where a main fuse has failed and with so many other unknowns. Not being concerned enough might lead to a similar set of circumstances where a badly manufactured Chinese replacement fuse FAILS to blow and there's a meltdown as a result. A blown fuse is a warning that something's wrong. Assuming it's just a failed fuse and moving on seems to be bordering on terribly careless. Each to his own, I guess. FWIW, hearing about a fusebox in a home in this day and age raises an alarm in my head that there's a potential overload situation. While fuse panels of 200A certainly exist, every *residential* fuse panel I've ever seen in the NE USA was a four banger with 15A screw-ins and a 60A total rating. I realize that experience is terribly limited, but regardless, a blown main fuse is not something to take lightly. You need a picture of mine? 22 circuits, one of which is a 30 amp 220 pullout, and the other is a 50 amp 220 pullout. Installed in 1978 when the house was built. It also has a fused disconnect for the central AC beside the panel Other than the garage circuits, which I have blown numerous times with table saw, compressor, and various other "tools of high demand"I've only replaced 2 fuses in 29 years. One of which was DEFINITELY a simple fuse failure, and the second almost definitely (a lighting only circuit with less than 800 watts maximum load on a 15 amp fuse - which has not blown for the second time in more than 8 years.) It was cracked in the "blow zone", the crack not visible to the naked eye The first fuse, which was intermittent, had failed where the fuse element contacts the threaded shell. The solder didn't fail, so it was not a loose or oveheated fuse - the fuse element just cracked, right next to the soldered joint. If the lights or TV were on for a while they'd start to flicker a bit, then go out. Turn them off for an hour and turn them back on, and they'de work. Being wired with aluminum wire, I checked every connection on the circuit before thinking to replace the fuse. All outlets are now CO-ALR devices. Maximum load at any time during the problem time was less than 300 watts. Max circuit load in previous 15 years or so? Who knows, but in the 8 years I'd owned the house not likely more than 1500 watts or so - back before we got the central vac it had likely run the vacuum a few times. That (replacement) fuse has been there now something like 10 or 12 years. I don't know what the rules are up in the "Great White Way" or in other parts of the US, but I assume one of the safety reasons for switching to breakers is that they are much harder to override with pennies or aluminum foil. Not sure what the NEC has to say about installing new 200A service with screw-in fuses in the USA and I certainly know that my limited experience does not even speak for the USA NE - just the houses whose panels I have seen. All I know is when a fuse protecting an entire incoming phase fails, an investigation is warranted to determine the cause. Assuming it's simply a bad fuse is bad troubleshooting. In this case, caution is especially called for because we just don't have the information necessary from the OP to make a good call. We have no information at all about the daily peak load he's putting on the panel, either. We don't have a picture of the panel with the cover off, which can often tell you what kind of workmanship is involved or if the wiring is shoddy or deteriorating. I recall seeing one poster here show us a picture of his circuit box with all of the single wires laid out as neatly as the strings of a harp! I had never seen and will probably never again see such incredibly precise work - I wish I could remember the dude's name - when you see workmanship like that, you can usually discount poor wiring - but I digress. My panel looks about the same, as did virtually every panel my electrician father ever installed. With all the unknowns, it seems far more prudent to raise a caution flag than to give him the green light and say "bad fuse, replace and fuggedaboutit." The part of this that really gives me pause is that he reported that it's an intermittent fault. Yes, fuses, light bulbs and most anything electrical can fail that way, but when a safety device fails, it's far more serious than a light bulb failure. When the fuse protecting an entire leg fails, I consider that especially serious because it can easily indicate too much current is flowing through that leg, something that individual circuit fuses will not catch. It is just as irresponsible to scare the guy into spending big bux to replace what may be a perfectly safe and serviceable fuse panel If the box and wiring are in reasonably good shape, and the load is not over about 80% (70% is better) no problem. The truth is that we don't know a whit about either of those big IFS in this case. We don't know how well the loads are balanced in the house - many times one leg is bearing much more of the load than the other. That can be simply plugging in space heaters into the "wrong" outlets. In a house with a bigger circuit panel than the feeders dictate, that can happen easily. I've seen more than one "heavy up" that didn't include an appropriate upgrade from the feeder. All we know here is that one leg of the incoming power lines had an intermittent, not quite completely failed fuse. We know very little else. (Since writing this, the OP has added a post indicating that he's got 200A circuit panel but we don't know if it's really 200A service or a 200A box sitting on 60A feeder lines.) With no ability to go onsite, we've got a barrel full of IFs that raise the caution flag. Yes, I agree with you that fuses do fail from inherent vice but IMHO *every* fuse failure or circuit breaker pop warrants an investigation to find out what popped it. In this case, I would be looking at the total KWh's used monthly in relation to the size of the panel and also whether the panel was properly balanced with each leg carrying as close to half the load as possible. I'd turn everything in the house on and get out my tong meter to see what branch circuits were carrying in terms of load. I'd visually inspect the outside feeders to make sure they were sized for 200A and not 60 or 100. IIRC, the panel should be sized so that even if every device in the house is running, the main fuse won't blow. I am not sure that's the case here. We also know fuses fail in multiple ways: in addition to failing intermittently or "popping" correctly in an overload, they can also fail to blow and thus not protect the wiring. That's an extremely hazardous situation. Except in the case of cheap chinese automotive mini-fuses I've never seen or had first-hand knowlege of a fuse failing to blow. There was a whole batch of ATO fuses recalled by Princess Auto that were made in China with the element made of too heavy a guage material that would blow on a short circuit, but required over 300% of the rated current, IIRC.. A properly operating fuse does not "blow" as soon as it's rated current is reached. Generally a 25% overload should blow in less than 10 minutes. A 100% overload MAY take up to 4 or 5 minutes to blow the fuse, and still be operating "correctly". However, a BLOWN fuse, in my experience, is ALWAYS an open fuse, with enough metal melted out of the element to be both obvious and permanently disconnected. A FAILED fuse, on the other hand, can be failed in such a way as to be visibly impossible to detect, and intermittent. In a cartrige main fuse, of course, it is impossible to visibly inspect the fuse without dismantling it, although at least in years past, there were some that quite visibly changed colour when blown - and some had neon bulbs in them that glowed when the fuse was blown. There was a line of pole fuses that also had the neon in them - the hydro crew could tell immediately if the feeder fuse on the pole was blown. If the two fuses for each leg are of the same vintage, I would replace both of them if I wasn't going to heavy up the panel and the load appeared to be well-balanced. My best guess, from the limited facts we've been presented, is that the load is too great for the panel and that one leg was carrying a heavier share of the load than the other, causing the fuse on that leg to deteriorate and partially fail. Quite possible - even iff that leg was never over 50 or 60% capacity. A good idea to check the load and load distribution? Most definitely. But don't condemn the panel or the installation without checking it first. But in reality, we don't even really know whether the fuse was bad. Replacing a fuse in a loose fuse holder could jiggle bad electrical connections just enough so that the intermittent disappears for a while. We can't know that unless somebody actually checks the dead fuse with an ohmmeter and carefully inspects the connections coming from the pole. It now appears he still has flickering lights, so there is most likely a bad connection involved. Running a cartridge fuse hot for a long enough time could easily cause serious deterioration. If that leg's overloaded, simply replacing the fuse could lead to tragedy, especially if the bad fuse is replaced with one that doesn't operate at its rated load, but higher than rated. And before you say that's unlikely, consider that you're the one saying we're dealing with a bad fuse to begin with. (-: Who's to say, without an examination, whether that intermittent fuse *should* have opened completely but didn't? I've seen people ask very "shocking" questions, that indicate a lack of knowledge about electrical work. My favorite is whether it's OK to use a ground as a neutral. These kinds of comments lead me to almost always err on the side of caution when giving advice on the net, especially with things that have the lethality potential of possibly overloaded circuit panel. There's almost *never* enough information given by the OP to make a clear call. That's just the nature of Usenet. In my limited experience, it's far too common for people to add circuits without thinking about the total load. I'm partially guilty of that crime. I've added the skinny "two in one" breakers to my house that have the potential to overload the main fuse if I run every circuit to capacity. I definitely should have heavied up the incoming feeders to meet code but I added the new circuits not to draw more juice, but to replace the old cloth covered circuits one-by-one with 12/2 romex w/ground and GFCI protection. A whole lot more difficult to do and more unlikely with a fuse panel. Not quite sure why the fuses with different sized cones, that did not allow a heavier fuse to be installed than the socket was designed for, never caught on. Likely because the American manufacturers took a "not invented here" attitude. (I believe it was a Canadian inovation) I left the all the old circuits in place because they serve porch and overhead lights that would have required major demolition to replace. Now, almost all the large loads like space heaters and window ACs run off 20A grounded circuits. I've got sensors on the incoming feeders that connect to my HomeVision controller to let me know the overall current draw on each phase. I used that information to switch circuits around until they were balanced, at least for the static large loads. I monitor it periodically to ensure the loads have stayed balanced. I have a lot more breakers than I should, but the overall load has not changed - it's just been redistributed and rebalanced so each leg shares the load as well as I could balance it. The only difference in the overall load occurs at peak cooking times. One of the reasons for the rewire was to add an XTB coupler/repeater/amp for my X-10 stuff, and more importantly, to be able to use the microwave, the toaster oven and the refrigerator in this 70 year old house without blowing a breaker. That's not going to put a strain on the main fuses for each incoming leg because the kitchen outlets are served by different phases, a trick I learned right here in AHR. Required by code in Canada - split countertop receptacles. Unfortunately, that's not the case in many other installations where there are too many circuits drawing from one phase and overloading it. I don't think replacing a fuse is going to get the OP off the hook. It could still be something like a bad connection to the main feeder in the circuit panel that's heating up and heating the fuse, too. Again, only an on-site inspection will reveal things like that. I hope the OP continues to post his progress in running the problem to ground. (Electrical pun!) My money's on something other than the fuse being defective. There's something rotten in Denmark (do we even know where the OP lives, BTW?). |
#36
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Some electrical outlets not working
"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com... stuff snipped The only thing good about fuses is that they prevent people from using them improperly as ON/OFF switches the way too many people do with circuit breakers. You can, of course, unscrew the fuse if you want to use it as a switch, but that's not potentially destructive to the safety capabilty of the fuse. At least not the way using a circuit breaker as a switch is. Well, there were LOTS of 200 amp fuse panels installed, and I have a 100 amp fuse panel innmy house. Fuses are a lot more reliable than breakers. Fewer "nuisance trips", although fuses can fail from age/heat cycling/fatigue - and virtually no chance of "sticking" and failing to trip when required. They are a nuiscnae when they do blow - you need to have the right value fuse within ready reach, and a flashlight next to the panel is always a good idea.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - We rented a condo down in miami a few times and they left instructions to flip the breakers on for the hot water and the hvac when you arrived and flip them off when you left. I thought about telling them that was going to bite them but most people really don't like unsolicited advice. "It looks like a switch, so it *must* be a switch" is the attitude a lot of people take when using a breaker as a switch but it's really not a good idea. A lot of circuit breakers are specifically rated for switching duty, and it is very common in industrial facilities like warehouses for the circuit breakers to double as the light switches. Well, when I start posting in Alt.Industrial.Repair I'll keep that in mind. (-: I still think it's a bad idea for homeowners to use circuit breakers as switches because of even the small possibility that they are using older breakers that are not rated for switch duty. Citing the existence of industrial breakers that can operate as switches probably isn't helpful for the majority of homeowners, because it gives someone who's probably got no way to determine whether his breaker is switch-rated a potentially false sense of security. While technically correct and even germane to the issue, I think its not quite right to compare an industrial circuit panel to a consumer panel. Given that houses often change owners quite a few times, it's likely the panel's original receipts and manuals are long gone. I am sure no one wants to do the home repair community a disservice by pointing out an exception that's mostly related to commercial wiring and could be very dangerous in a non-industrial setting. I just looked at my 30+ year old breaker box and there are no external markings indicating any of the breakers is switch-rated. I'm betting that when I look through the pile of old breakers I pulled there will be no indication whatsoever regarding "switch ratings." It's why I'll reiterate that using a safety device as a control device is not a good thing to do. I'll add a caveat that "unless you are sure it is switch rated." I will also have to add that "The likelihood is that you'll actually have to pull the breaker and confirm it by model number and manufacturer's specs or by looking for the rating stamped somewhere on the device." That puts likelihood of proper confirmation of the breaker rating way outside the skill set of most condo renters who are told to "just flip the breaker." Besides, I think it's *damn* good practice to actually *install* a switch if you need a switch, and to keep people out of circuit boxes as a general rule. The bottom line is that it's probably NOT helpful to suggest that a person switching off the AC or the water heater via a breaker in their rented condo may be in the right because some industrial panels have breakers that can and do serve as switches. Breakers not rated for switch use edge closer to failure the more often they are used as switches because they are subjected to wear they were not designed to bear. I'm certain of this because when Dad retired from the Navy's Material Science Division he went to work as a forensic engineer. The annals of fire litigation are filled with failed breakers, stuck Klixon's and any number of failed, bypassed or misused safety devices. Somewhere I have pictures from his old cases about breakers and Klixon's recovered from fire scenes that were part of the circuit that should have tripped but didn't, leaving wires and electric furnace cores to overheat and burn. While this was twenty years ago, I recall clearly safety experts citing breakers being more likely to fail if they were also being used as switches. It sounds like in recognition of this constant misuse of a safety device that breaker makers changed their design to allow them to be used as control devices. http://www.hq.nasa.gov/alsj/alsj-CBsVsSwitches.html In August 2005, Journal Contributor Mike Polizsuk, who works for the U.S. Navy as a civilian engineer, most recently for the Naval Air Systems Command at Pax River in the Program Office for the F/A-18 Hornet fighter jet where he was responsible for engineering oversight of the Hornet's structural and mechanical systems, wrote: One thing I note continuously throughout Apollo is the way they cycled circuit breakers, often as a matter of routine operations. In my experience with aircraft systems, circuit breakers are considered as protective devices that should not be used as a switch to turn systems on and off. While it may be acceptable for maintainers to open breakers to make a system safe for maintenance, it is not standard practice for pilots to cycle breakers. We would only put it into a checklist reluctantly, and only if no other way exists to turn off a system. Since the circuit breaker plunger is held in mechanically, repeatedly cycling it can wear it out. For a system or component that is required to be turned on and off, a Power switch should be used, with a circuit breaker also in the circuit for protection." Amen. -- Bobby G. |
#37
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Some electrical outlets not working
"al" wrote in message
... On Nov 20, 11:05 am, bud-- wrote: wrote: On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 09:42:25 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) " wrote: On Nov 19, 8:32 am, al wrote: On Nov 18, 6:42 am, al wrote: Some of the outlets in my house stopped working. Outlets on individual walls in different rooms work while others don't. They are associated with different fuses, but the fuses are okay. I double checked them by replacing them anyway and affected outlets still don't work. Any idea what would cause this? Problem solved. Contractor's estimator checked everything, double-checked the fuses and discovered a main fuse that was bad. Replaced it and solved the problem. My all to obvious error was not checking the main fuses. I just checked the round screw in fuses. Since moving in here, I've never touched or even thought of touching those red cylindrical fuses. Now those fuses aren't the only things that are red. Anyway, the estimator said as some of you have that the fuse panel should be replaced with a breaker panel and is preparing an estimate for that job. Breakers are probably a better option for someone susceptible to failing to explore all options before raising the alarm anyway. Thanks for all the input. Thanks for your closure to this, we all learned something. Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" The lights may sometimes work because they are powered from the other leg through a 220V load like a water heater. I would not bet that the fuse "just failed". A loose connection near the fuse can generate heat to blow the fuse at lower than its rated current. With a loose connection you may see flickering lights. -- bud-- Further investigation is going to be necessary, because last night I did notice that lights were dimming, almost imperceptibly. And not necessarily just the ones on the aforementioned affected outlets. I thought about this for a while and it's possibly that the flickering is not just in your house, but on the whole local circuit. At night, the power companies continuously adjust the system and you might be seeing the effects of those adjustments. I say that based on the fact that all lights are flickering, not just the one on the bad fuse circuit. -- Bobby G. |
#38
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Some electrical outlets not working
wrote:
On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 08:50:26 -0800, Smitty Two wrote: In article , wrote: I have seen many fuses "just fail" over the last 50 years, both automotive and "mains". And like incandescent (filament) lamps, I've seen them "mend" themselves temporarily - sometimes several times, before final total failure. An intermittent "failed" fuse can really be a bugger when troubleshooting an intermittent electrical problem. Failed fuses don't mend themselves. However, a common automotive failure is intermittent connections behind the fusebox. Pulling and replacing a fuse restores the connection, for a minute, day, or week. I beg to differ. The fuses can arc weld themselves back together and work for a while, then re-fracture. Depending on temperature changes etc, this MAY happen more than once, but even once is a rare occurrence. Rare, but it happens. On most current automotive fuse boxes there are no "connections" behind the fusebox that would be influenced by removing the fuse. - and replacing the fuse invariably solves the problem - often for the remaining life of the vehicle. Same thing happens in fused distribution panels - both with plug fuses (the round glass screw-in common fuse) and with cartridge fuses, on occaision. Bump the fuse, or have the temperature go up a few degrees, and the fuse makes contact again, allowing light loads to operate. Sometimes they will "weld" themselves and not cause a problem again for several days. Looking at the fuse there is no sign that there is anything wrong - but sometimes if you tap the fuse in the dark you will see a faint blue arc inside the fuse body, and a light connected to the circuit will either flicker off, or faintly flicker on.. Maybe it happens in Canada. Very doubtful in the US. Fuse elements on power systems burn a gap when they open. The fuse elements are almost always quite rigid and can't vibrate back together. I really don't think UL would like that behavior. In many years in the industry I have not seen a fuse "just fail". Maybe you could buy bootleg fuses from the US. -- bud-- |
#39
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Some electrical outlets not working
On Sun, 21 Nov 2010 09:15:27 -0600, bud--
wrote: wrote: On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 08:50:26 -0800, Smitty Two wrote: In article , wrote: I have seen many fuses "just fail" over the last 50 years, both automotive and "mains". And like incandescent (filament) lamps, I've seen them "mend" themselves temporarily - sometimes several times, before final total failure. An intermittent "failed" fuse can really be a bugger when troubleshooting an intermittent electrical problem. Failed fuses don't mend themselves. However, a common automotive failure is intermittent connections behind the fusebox. Pulling and replacing a fuse restores the connection, for a minute, day, or week. I beg to differ. The fuses can arc weld themselves back together and work for a while, then re-fracture. Depending on temperature changes etc, this MAY happen more than once, but even once is a rare occurrence. Rare, but it happens. On most current automotive fuse boxes there are no "connections" behind the fusebox that would be influenced by removing the fuse. - and replacing the fuse invariably solves the problem - often for the remaining life of the vehicle. Same thing happens in fused distribution panels - both with plug fuses (the round glass screw-in common fuse) and with cartridge fuses, on occaision. Bump the fuse, or have the temperature go up a few degrees, and the fuse makes contact again, allowing light loads to operate. Sometimes they will "weld" themselves and not cause a problem again for several days. Looking at the fuse there is no sign that there is anything wrong - but sometimes if you tap the fuse in the dark you will see a faint blue arc inside the fuse body, and a light connected to the circuit will either flicker off, or faintly flicker on.. Maybe it happens in Canada. Very doubtful in the US. Dang fuses were "made in USA" And they don't know if they are in Detroit or Windsor. The fuse may fracture when cooling off with no load - "the light worked last time I tried it" - no arcing, no melting, no sign of failure. Fuse elements on power systems burn a gap when they open. The fuse elements are almost always quite rigid and can't vibrate back together. I really don't think UL would like that behavior. They burn a gap when they "blow" Rigidity of the fuse element causes fatigue from repeated cycling.- right at the soldered joint to the shell. As far as the UL is concerned, they don't really care because it is NOT a safety issue. Can't cause a fire or any other damage In many years in the industry I have not seen a fuse "just fail". Maybe you could buy bootleg fuses from the US. |
#40
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Some electrical outlets not working
wrote in message
stuff snipped Fuses fail from age/temp cycling. Since the lights SOMETIMES worked, the fuse was not blown due to a short or overload - the fuse just "failed" I don't know how you can say that without examining the fuse close up. Sounds like it may have crumbled from excessive heating from carrying too much of a load. Only a hands-on inspection will determine that, and it would probably mean cutting open the fuse to determine the failure mode. Don't raise alarms where none are warranted. I would say *exactly* the reverse is true when dealing a lethal entity like 240VAC where a main fuse has failed and with so many other unknowns. Not being concerned enough might lead to a similar set of circumstances where a badly manufactured Chinese replacement fuse FAILS to blow and there's a meltdown as a result. A blown fuse is a warning that something's wrong. Assuming it's just a failed fuse and moving on seems to be bordering on terribly careless. Each to his own, I guess. FWIW, hearing about a fusebox in a home in this day and age raises an alarm in my head that there's a potential overload situation. While fuse panels of 200A certainly exist, every *residential* fuse panel I've ever seen in the NE USA was a four banger with 15A screw-ins and a 60A total rating. I realize that experience is terribly limited, but regardless, a blown main fuse is not something to take lightly. You need a picture of mine? 22 circuits, one of which is a 30 amp 220 pullout, and the other is a 50 amp 220 pullout. Installed in 1978 when the house was built. But bro, you're a *Canadian* (-: They've always done things a little differently. I don't doubt you have a fuse panel, but that doesn't change my experience, which is that fuse panels in the US are typically associated with 60A service and most houses that I have seen that have changed hands even once have had those panels upgraded to get approval for a loan or to be considered insurable. This site says: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/electrical-wiring/part1/ Many jurisdictions, particularly in Canada, no longer permit fuse panels in new installations. The NEC does permit new fuse panels in some rare circumstances (requiring the special inserts to "key" the fuseholder to specific size fuses) So while you and others may have them, fuse panels are definitely on their way OUT. That site also goes on to say: Fuses are prone to explode under extremely high overload. When a fuse explodes, the metallic vapor cloud becomes a conducting path. Result? From complete meltdown of the electrical panel, melted service wiring, through fires in the electrical distribution transformer and having your house burn down. [This author has seen it happen.] Breakers won't do this. Other than the garage circuits, which I have blown numerous times with table saw, compressor, and various other "tools of high demand"I've only replaced 2 fuses in 29 years. One of which was DEFINITELY a simple fuse failure, and the second almost definitely (a lighting only circuit with less than 800 watts maximum load on a 15 amp fuse - which has not blown for the second time in more than 8 years.) It was cracked in the "blow zone", the crack not visible to the naked eye The first fuse, which was intermittent, had failed where the fuse element contacts the threaded shell. The solder didn't fail, so it was not a loose or oveheated fuse - the fuse element just cracked, right next to the soldered joint. If the lights or TV were on for a while they'd start to flicker a bit, then go out. Turn them off for an hour and turn them back on, and they'de work. Being wired with aluminum wire, I checked every connection on the circuit before thinking to replace the fuse. All outlets are now CO-ALR devices. Maximum load at any time during the problem time was less than 300 watts. Max circuit load in previous 15 years or so? Who knows, but in the 8 years I'd owned the house not likely more than 1500 watts or so - back before we got the central vac it had likely run the vacuum a few times. That (replacement) fuse has been there now something like 10 or 12 years. Gack! You've got TWO items that are no longer considered codeworthy. Aluminum wire and perhaps the last fuse panel installed in Canada. (-: I don't know what the rules are up in the "Great White Way" or in other parts of the US, but I assume one of the safety reasons for switching to breakers is that they are much harder to override with pennies or aluminum foil. Not sure what the NEC has to say about installing new 200A service with screw-in fuses in the USA and I certainly know that my limited experience does not even speak for the USA NE - just the houses whose panels I have seen. All I know is when a fuse protecting an entire incoming phase fails, an investigation is warranted to determine the cause. Assuming it's simply a bad fuse is bad troubleshooting. In this case, caution is especially called for because we just don't have the information necessary from the OP to make a good call. We have no information at all about the daily peak load he's putting on the panel, either. We don't have a picture of the panel with the cover off, which can often tell you what kind of workmanship is involved or if the wiring is shoddy or deteriorating. I recall seeing one poster here show us a picture of his circuit box with all of the single wires laid out as neatly as the strings of a harp! I had never seen and will probably never again see such incredibly precise work - I wish I could remember the dude's name - when you see workmanship like that, you can usually discount poor wiring - but I digress. My panel looks about the same, as did virtually every panel my electrician father ever installed. I don't doubt that, but most panels I've looked into don't. With all the unknowns, it seems far more prudent to raise a caution flag than to give him the green light and say "bad fuse, replace and fuggedaboutit." The part of this that really gives me pause is that he reported that it's an intermittent fault. Yes, fuses, light bulbs and most anything electrical can fail that way, but when a safety device fails, it's far more serious than a light bulb failure. When the fuse protecting an entire leg fails, I consider that especially serious because it can easily indicate too much current is flowing through that leg, something that individual circuit fuses will not catch. It is just as irresponsible to scare the guy into spending big bux to replace what may be a perfectly safe and serviceable fuse panel No, I don't think so. If fuse panels were as safe and reliable as you've been portraying them, then why aren't they allowed in new service? It's because they have serious safety issues compared to breaker panels. "Safe and serviceable" is hard to evaluate without seeing the box but we already have good reason to believe there's something very wrong with it since a new fuse didn't cure the flickering. I also base my comments on the fact that I've never seen a screw in fuse panel in all the new homes I've every looked at and I bought my first house in 1984 and my parents bought several houses before that. The NEC decided against fuses, and I'll bet those reasons are safety related. I assume the primary reason is that fuses are too easy to bypass with higher-than-proper rated fuses, pennies or foil. I assume a secondary reason is that when they are unscrewed you can get shocked a lot more easily than when a breaker trips. A tripped breaker has no potential exposure to electrical current. More reasons? Fuses may not be screwed in completely and thus make intermittent contact. If the box and wiring are in reasonably good shape, and the load is not over about 80% (70% is better) no problem. We know none of those things. Another site says this about fuse panels and why they've disappeared from new home wiring: Old style distribution panels, those with screw-in fuses are generally considered fire hazards. The contact between the base of the fuse and the buss bar oxidizes or charcoals from poor contact. In order for the current to continue to flow heat is generated. In many areas, insurance companies will not renew homeowner insurance if the home is equipped with an electrical distribution panel that has screw-in fuses. . . .Electrical panels typically last 20-25 years. Sure signs of a failure in your electrical panel are flickering lights and excess heat at the circuit breakers. Well, our OP certainly has experienced the flickering lights part. Source: http://www.allstarelectric.us/electr...lupgrades.html The truth is that we don't know a whit about either of those big IFS in this case. We don't know how well the loads are balanced in the house - many times one leg is bearing much more of the load than the other. That can be simply plugging in space heaters into the "wrong" outlets. In a house with a bigger circuit panel than the feeders dictate, that can happen easily. I've seen more than one "heavy up" that didn't include an appropriate upgrade from the feeder. All we know here is that one leg of the incoming power lines had an intermittent, not quite completely failed fuse. We know very little else. (Since writing this, the OP has added a post indicating that he's got 200A circuit panel but we don't know if it's really 200A service or a 200A box sitting on 60A feeder lines.) With no ability to go onsite, we've got a barrel full of IFs that raise the caution flag. Yes, I agree with you that fuses do fail from inherent vice but IMHO *every* fuse failure or circuit breaker pop warrants an investigation to find out what popped it. In this case, I would be looking at the total KWh's used monthly in relation to the size of the panel and also whether the panel was properly balanced with each leg carrying as close to half the load as possible. I'd turn everything in the house on and get out my tong meter to see what branch circuits were carrying in terms of load. I'd visually inspect the outside feeders to make sure they were sized for 200A and not 60 or 100. IIRC, the panel should be sized so that even if every device in the house is running, the main fuse won't blow. I am not sure that's the case here. We also know fuses fail in multiple ways: in addition to failing intermittently or "popping" correctly in an overload, they can also fail to blow and thus not protect the wiring. That's an extremely hazardous situation. Except in the case of cheap chinese automotive mini-fuses I've never seen or had first-hand knowlege of a fuse failing to blow. Well, explain why they're no longer going into new work if what those sites are saying is true. The NEC wouldn't abandon a successful technology for absolutely no reason, would they? (-: As I am researching this, I keep seeing comments like this: http://www.walleyecentral.com/forums.../t-152904.html "I need to update the old screw-in fuse box on my cabin to modern breakers per my insurance company. What should I expect to pay for a 100 amp service upgrade? Wiring is modern 3-wire system, but for some reason, they never upgraded the fuse box." If the two fuses for each leg are of the same vintage, I would replace both of them if I wasn't going to heavy up the panel and the load appeared to be well-balanced. My best guess, from the limited facts we've been presented, is that the load is too great for the panel and that one leg was carrying a heavier share of the load than the other, causing the fuse on that leg to deteriorate and partially fail. Quite possible - even iff that leg was never over 50 or 60% capacity. A good idea to check the load and load distribution? Most definitely. But don't condemn the panel or the installation without checking it first. If the guy had flickering lights throughout the house, there's good evidence the panel isn't working properly. Not quite sure why the fuses with different sized cones, that did not allow a heavier fuse to be installed than the socket was designed for, never caught on. Likely because the American manufacturers took a "not invented here" attitude. (I believe it was a Canadian inovation) Those are Type S fuse receptacles that used different threads on each value of fuse, making it impossible to substitute the wrong size. I had them in this house when it had a 60A fuse panel. Different color fuses, too. Since we're now six quotes in, we're just kicking the football around now. It will be interesting to see what the final resolution of the problem will be, but I am betting it's going to end in a panel upgrade. http://www.city-data.com/forum/renti...use-boxes.html says: "I've upgraded a number of panels from fuse to circuit breakers because some Insurance Companies will no longer insure with fuses." http://ezinearticles.com/?Upgrade-Yo...em!&id=2469061 "In California, if a home is equipped with an electrical distribution panel that uses screw-in fuses, many insurance companies will not renew homeowner insurance." It really seems that I am not the only one who believes that fuse panels should be replaced with breakers. Apparently the people that have to pay out for electrical fires do, too. -- Bobby G. |
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