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Default Table fan repair

I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.
The shaft can be turned freely by hand and there don't seem to be any broken
or disconnected wires. Are there any other "usual causes" of this type
problem that should be investigated before I throw this thing away? Thanks
for your replies!


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Default Table fan repair

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 14:34:22 -0700, "PE" wrote:

I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.
The shaft can be turned freely by hand and there don't seem to be any broken
or disconnected wires. Are there any other "usual causes" of this type
problem that should be investigated before I throw this thing away? Thanks
for your replies!


Bad wall outlet/receptacle?

Try the fan in another room and see if it works for you.
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Default Table fan repair


"PE" wrote in message
...
I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it
was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan
blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.
The shaft can be turned freely by hand and there don't seem to be any
broken
or disconnected wires. Are there any other "usual causes" of this type
problem that should be investigated before I throw this thing away?
Thanks
for your replies!



*Check the cord close to where it enters the fan and also at the plug end.
Sometimes the wire inside the cord eventually breaks from too much swaying.

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Default Table fan repair

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 14:34:22 -0700, "PE" wrote:

I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.
The shaft can be turned freely by hand and there don't seem to be any broken
or disconnected wires. Are there any other "usual causes" of this type
problem that should be investigated before I throw this thing away? Thanks
for your replies!

Is the plug good? In general, when you turn the fan on and connect
an ohmmeter across the plug prongs (take it out of the wall first), do
you get non-infinite resistance?
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Default Table fan repair

"PE" wrote in :

I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have
any useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over
time; it was working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn
on. I've tested the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working
properly. And when the control is switched to any of of the "on"
settings, the motor doesn't even make a humming sound and rotation
can't be started by giving the fan blades a shove, so I assume the
problem is not with the motor starting capacitor. The shaft can be
turned freely by hand and there don't seem to be any broken or
disconnected wires. Are there any other "usual causes" of this type
problem that should be investigated before I throw this thing away?
Thanks for your replies!





Is the motor always live with the switch providing ground (short to
ground), or is the motor always dead until the switch provides voltage
(short to voltage)?

Either way, check for the presences of voltage and ground in the
appropriate places.

Sometimes there are thermal fuses in the motor. Check for those as well.


--
Tegger


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Default Table fan repair

I've confirmed continuity from each plug prong through to the on/off switch
and the outlet is definitely energized.

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 14:34:22 -0700, "PE" wrote:

I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it
was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan
blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.
The shaft can be turned freely by hand and there don't seem to be any
broken
or disconnected wires. Are there any other "usual causes" of this type
problem that should be investigated before I throw this thing away?
Thanks
for your replies!

Is the plug good? In general, when you turn the fan on and connect
an ohmmeter across the plug prongs (take it out of the wall first), do
you get non-infinite resistance?

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Default Table fan repair

On 8/22/2010 5:34 PM, PE wrote:
I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.



Actually fans almost never have motor start capacitors, they have a
"shaded" winding to give them a kick in the right direction. The
starting torque required needs little more than that.

The shaft can be turned freely by hand and there don't seem to be any
broken
or disconnected wires. Are there any other "usual causes" of this type
problem that should be investigated before I throw this thing away? Thanks
for your replies!


Get out your ohm meter and set it on ohms and walk back the path from
both sides of the plug. Wires frequently break just after strain reliefs
or grommets. You can push a needle through the wire if you need a
convenient place to test.

Tegger's suggestion is a good possibility also.

Fans aren't made the way they used to. I've been tossing all my home
fans except the Lasko, which is a good product.

Jeff



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Default Table fan repair

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 21:51:14 -0400, Jeff Thies
wrote:

On 8/22/2010 5:34 PM, PE wrote:
I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.



Actually fans almost never have motor start capacitors, they have a
"shaded" winding to give them a kick in the right direction. The
starting torque required needs little more than that.


This is sort of related. I have an old 8 or 10 inch fan, -- to judge
its age, almost everything that shows is plastic -- and I use a remote
switch on a cord to turn it on and off, and a light dimmer to have it
run a little slower than speed 2 iirc. (at full speed 2, the noise
bothers me) When I had tried setting the dimmer below the current
setting, it wouldn't run at all, but it's been running at this setting
almost every day for hours all summer for 5 or more years.

Early this year, after I turned it, on it would run a quarter turn,
then slow to a stop, and could take up to a half hour before it got
moving again, first slowly and within a couple minutes the normal
speed.

This went on for 2 or 3 months, even on cool days, but about a week
ago, it stopped and now it turns on correctly right away. Like it
used to.

LIfe is so strange.

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Default Table fan repair

On 8/22/2010 10:43 PM, mm wrote:
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 21:51:14 -0400, Jeff
wrote:

On 8/22/2010 5:34 PM, PE wrote:
I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.



Actually fans almost never have motor start capacitors, they have a
"shaded" winding to give them a kick in the right direction. The
starting torque required needs little more than that.


This is sort of related. I have an old 8 or 10 inch fan, -- to judge
its age, almost everything that shows is plastic -- and I use a remote
switch on a cord to turn it on and off, and a light dimmer to have it
run a little slower than speed 2 iirc. (at full speed 2, the noise
bothers me) When I had tried setting the dimmer below the current
setting, it wouldn't run at all, but it's been running at this setting
almost every day for hours all summer for 5 or more years.

Early this year, after I turned it, on it would run a quarter turn,
then slow to a stop, and could take up to a half hour before it got
moving again, first slowly and within a couple minutes the normal
speed.

This went on for 2 or 3 months, even on cool days, but about a week
ago, it stopped and now it turns on correctly right away. Like it
used to.


AFAIK, fans aren't supposed to run on ordinary light dimmers. They are
designed to run at some slippage (more slippage, more torque) off the
synchronous speed. You are sort of fooling with the slippage needed to
generate enough torque to run the fan by reducing the "power" in. I'm
rather amazed it "works", but what do I know!

There are special motor speed controllers, not that I know how they
work, but you may wish to try one.

Never hurts to work a little oil into the bearings (probably SAE 20
or 30 non detergent), perhaps it got a little gunked up and worked
itself free.

Then again, why argue with 5 years of working?

Just my take on it.

Jeff

LIfe is so strange.


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On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 00:07:05 -0400, Jeff Thies
wrote:

On 8/22/2010 10:43 PM, mm wrote:
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 21:51:14 -0400, Jeff
wrote:

On 8/22/2010 5:34 PM, PE wrote:
I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time; it was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting capacitor.


Actually fans almost never have motor start capacitors, they have a
"shaded" winding to give them a kick in the right direction. The
starting torque required needs little more than that.


This is sort of related. I have an old 8 or 10 inch fan, -- to judge
its age, almost everything that shows is plastic -- and I use a remote
switch on a cord to turn it on and off, and a light dimmer to have it
run a little slower than speed 2 iirc. (at full speed 2, the noise
bothers me) When I had tried setting the dimmer below the current
setting, it wouldn't run at all, but it's been running at this setting
almost every day for hours all summer for 5 or more years.

Early this year, after I turned it, on it would run a quarter turn,
then slow to a stop, and could take up to a half hour before it got
moving again, first slowly and within a couple minutes the normal
speed.

This went on for 2 or 3 months, even on cool days, but about a week
ago, it stopped and now it turns on correctly right away. Like it
used to.


AFAIK, fans aren't supposed to run on ordinary light dimmers. They are


Yeah every time I bring this up, someone, or more, here brings that up
-- you're more tactful than most --, but I've been doing this with
several different fans for more than 20 years. Of the 6 or 8 fans I've
tried this with, only one of them wouldn't work, and for that one I
eventually got a fan speed controller, like would be in the wall for a
ceiling fan, and put that in a little box to control the table fan.
I have fans in 3, sometimes 4 rooms that I run this way.

designed to run at some slippage (more slippage, more torque) off the
synchronous speed. You are sort of fooling with the slippage needed to
generate enough torque to run the fan by reducing the "power" in. I'm
rather amazed it "works", but what do I know!

There are special motor speed controllers, not that I know how they
work, but you may wish to try one.


They were harder to find, came unassembled for my purpose, maybe were
much more expensive than light dimmers, and had to be disassembled
from the wall plate they were always mounted to. OTOH the lamp dimmer
was all set up for me with a pretty little box and a slide control, a
cord with an end that both plugged into the wall and the lamp/fan was
plugged into it. The little box was meant to be put on a table near
one's chair.

After about 10 years I came across the fan control all by itself for a
surplus price. By this time I had the other 2 or 3 rooms set up and
running, but I made up one for fans that required it.

Never hurts to work a little oil into the bearings (probably SAE 20
or 30 non detergent), perhaps it got a little gunked up and worked
itself free.


Maybe, but the plastic is getting brittle too and I'd rather not touch
it, let alone take the case apart.

Then again, why argue with 5 years of working?

Just my take on it.


I appreciate it.

Jeff

LIfe is so strange.




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PE wrote:
I've confirmed continuity from each plug prong through to the on/off
switch and the outlet is definitely energized.


Did you check continuity from one plug prong to the other... should show
little resistance... but only when the switch is on HIGH.
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On Aug 22, 6:01*pm, Tegger wrote:


Is the motor always live with the switch providing ground (short to
ground), or is the motor always dead until the switch provides voltage
(short to voltage)?


--
Tegger


I understand your meaning here...but my vernacular would be
different. As in "common to neutral" and "common to hot"

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Since you have VOM, you could check for continutity between the two
plug terminals. Switch to off, (should be infinite) and then the three
settings (near zero ohms). That would give you at least some more
information.

I've seen some table fans with small run capacitor, on the top of the
motor, in the back.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"PE" wrote in message
...
I have an oscillating table fan that recently stopped working. I'll
probably just buy an new one, but wondered if anyone here might have
any
useful suggestions. The fan's performance didn't degrade over time;
it was
working properly and then suddenly it just wouldn't turn on. I've
tested
the 4 way switch (Off-1-2-3) and it's working properly. And when the
control is switched to any of of the "on" settings, the motor doesn't
even
make a humming sound and rotation can't be started by giving the fan
blades
a shove, so I assume the problem is not with the motor starting
capacitor.
The shaft can be turned freely by hand and there don't seem to be any
broken
or disconnected wires. Are there any other "usual causes" of this
type
problem that should be investigated before I throw this thing away?
Thanks
for your replies!



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Didn't see that, when I wrote the last post.

Please check continuity from prong to prong. If that's good (near zero
ohms) then I'd think either run cap, or motor windings. More likely
run cap.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"PE" wrote in message
m...
I've confirmed continuity from each plug prong through to the on/off
switch
and the outlet is definitely energized.



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On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 02:12:02 -0400, Tony
wrote:

PE wrote:
I've confirmed continuity from each plug prong through to the on/off
switch


I read this but didn't really get it before. Tony's right. To the
on/off switch isn't what I meant. It's not the same as "across the
plug prongs". "From one prong to the other" is clearer. Doing that
checks the entire circuit, not just the plug and the cord.

and the outlet is definitely energized.

Did you check continuity from one plug prong to the other... should show
little resistance... but only when the switch is on HIGH.


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