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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:05:24 -0500, hls wrote:
Husqvarna, and some other chain saws, have had problems with the
plastic gas line inside the gas tank cracking.


Thanks for the tips.

This is apparently a Poulan motor in the Craftsman chain saw.

The three fuel lines appear clear and unbroken. Chain saw is only a year
old. Fuel filter appears unclogged when I blow on it and has no visible
deposits. It's bright white. When I press the bulb, gas flows (I can tell
because I emptied it accidentally while I was holding it in my hands and it
filled right up with gas).

Gas is new. Mix is new.

I'm working on the carb screw as I type ...
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On 8/19/2010 2:57 PM, SF Man wrote:

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog
chainsaw?).

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but it's
STILL hard to start.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.

I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to
tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?


I once showed a friend of mine a good way to check the ignition of a two
cycle engine. I stuck an air hose into the empty spark plug hole and
pressurized the cylinder then pulled the starter rope. The little motor
ran happily on compressed air and the ignition system put out a nice big
spark. It blew his mind (no pun). We set all of the needle valves in
accordance with the manual, it indicated the number of turns
the needle valves needed to be backed off from being fully seated.
Of course, we cleaned everything first, making sure nothing was stopped
up. After all our machinations, the little two cycle started on the
first pull.

TDD
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:10:45 -0700, SF Man
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 05:05:59 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:
You will have to ground the spark plug which isn't easy


I thought the same thing. It's hard enough to START the thing, with one
foot in the base of the handle, one hand on the top handle, and the other
pulling the cord.

But, it turned out to be (accidentally) easy ... because I had removed the
plug to test it. Putting the chain saw on the shop bench, turning the
lights off, and pulling the cord was easy (sans compression).

It sparks like a champ. Thanks for teaching me that trick.


Do you recall the color of the spark? A yellow/orange is a weak spark
(bad plug gap or weak ignition).

A bright blue color with a loud "snap snap" is what to look for.

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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:05:49 -0700, SF Man wrote:
I screwed it out 1 1/2 turns.


Oh oh. I read warnings about running two strokes too rich or at wide-open
throttle. I run it at full throttle all the time (if I don't, it stalls).
Is that bad?

Anyway, I figured I'd better google for Poulan carb adjustment procedures:
http://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/lawns/...procedure.html

Will try that.

BTW, I learned in this video that the low and high have H and L stamped on
them. Will look for that first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs

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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:14:12 -0700, Oren wrote:
A bright blue color with a loud "snap snap" is what to look for.


Bluish yellow. No snapping sound though.

Am watching this video to learn how to adjust the carb:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs


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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:18:07 -0700, SF Man wrote:

Am watching this video to learn how to adjust the carb:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs


Doh. I just realized the "L", "H", and "T" embossed on the cover that I
first removed indicated the low, high, and ... hmmm ... I guess "throttle"
adjustment screws?

Both the "L" and the "H" pin are NOT screws. Clearly they are not designed
to be adjusted. Again, this may be a California (smog) thing. To discourage
you from touching them, there is a point instead of a screw slot; and they
have a housing around them just so you can't easily get to them.

The "T" screw is easy to get to, even with all the covers on as there is a
slot in the plastic to allow access. Do you think the "T" is for throttle?
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw


"SF Man" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:05:24 -0500, hls wrote:
Husqvarna, and some other chain saws, have had problems with the
plastic gas line inside the gas tank cracking.


Thanks for the tips.

This is apparently a Poulan motor in the Craftsman chain saw.

The three fuel lines appear clear and unbroken. Chain saw is only a year
old. Fuel filter appears unclogged when I blow on it and has no visible
deposits. It's bright white. When I press the bulb, gas flows (I can tell
because I emptied it accidentally while I was holding it in my hands and
it
filled right up with gas).

Gas is new. Mix is new.

I'm working on the carb screw as I type ...


It is not easy to see the crack in the line. Several models of chainsaws
have
had the problem, and it is not at all unusual from them to go bad within a
year.

But the bottom line is to be sure you have fuel and spark, and if either is
missing, you have to work backward to locate the problem. Remember
the basics...you have to have spark (hot and at the right time), fuel,
and compression to have the engine run.

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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 11:57:18 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

Red wrote:

On Aug 21, 7:04*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Same as lawn mower. Take the spark plug out, and hold it to a metal
part of the body.


Hard to do on a chainsaw while holding the saw, the plug, the pull
cord, and snatching all at the same time.

I made a short cord to do the trick. Has a standard alligator clip on
one end and a battery cable clip on the other. The battery cable clip
clamps to the spark plug body and the alligator clip to any convenient
piece of metal on the motor. That frees up my hands for other things
and keeps me from getting shocked.



They also make a spark plug tester that even allows you to adjust a
gap to see if your spark is strong enough-- Unless you do it often,
knowing whether you just have a spark-- or a 'strong spark' - is
guesswork.


Grand Daddy taught me to check for the color of the spark. A
yellow/orange is a weak plug, gap or ignition. Change the gap on the
plug first and try again.

A bright blue, that snaps is a strong spark.

(like a gas stove - blue flames are hotter than orange flames)

--
shade tree mechanic
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:14:12 -0700, Oren wrote:
Do you recall the color of the spark? A yellow/orange is a weak spark
(bad plug gap or weak ignition).


It was a no go when I tried to start it just now. No catching at all.

If the spark is yellow mostly, how do I get it to be blue? I'll buy a new
plug, but, how do I fix a weak ignition?
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

I just realized that just before it stopped running, it ran really really
fast. Of course, I had protective headgear on, but, even then, thinking
back, it was running really fast.

I wonder ...

I wonder if I blew the rings somehow.

When I put my finger over the hole after removing the spark plug, and
pulled the starter cord, there was only a small puff. Noticeable. But
small.

Do you think compression might be the problem?


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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

SF Man wrote:
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:05:49 -0700, SF Man wrote:
I screwed it out 1 1/2 turns.


Oh oh. I read warnings about running two strokes too rich or at wide-open
throttle. I run it at full throttle all the time (if I don't, it stalls).
Is that bad?

Anyway, I figured I'd better google for Poulan carb adjustment procedures:
http://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/lawns/...procedure.html

Will try that.

BTW, I learned in this video that the low and high have H and L stamped on
them. Will look for that first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs

All small engines have had a solid state/coils for years now. The
timing is set by the flywheel key and usually not adjustable. They are
usually pretty trouble free.
What you can do is squirt some carb cleaner into the carb throat and
that should get it to start for just a second maybe two. If it does and
you know you are getting gas to the carb then you will have to clean the
carburetor. The metering holes are very very small and it doesn't take
much to clog them. One side of the carb is the fuel pump. The other
side meters the gas to the engine. First I'd spray a little carb
cleaner or a little gasoline into the carb and make sure the engine will
start and run just a bit. Then the carburetor cleaning. Since it's
only a year old the gaskets and diaphragms ought to still be good. The
metering holes and jets are very small (emissions control) two strokes
are considered dirty burning and the carburetors are made so you can't
over richen the mixture which is what you really need at times. Anyway
I've gotten small engines to run by priming them directly with gasoline
or carb cleaner even WD 40 sprayed into the carburetor throat and if you
can just get it to "pop" and run sometimes that will be enough to get
things working enough to continue running. The screw that was backed
out 8 turns probably doesn't matter since the carbs are now fixed with
such metering holes. You will have to make sure those are clear when
you have the carb apart spray carb cleaner into all the little holes and
use compressed air to blow them out, there is a small screen also but
those are usually not the problem. Old fuel is usually the problem it
coats things with varnish and gum.
You might get this thing running yet. Some of the youtube videos are
very helpful.
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:26:22 -0700, SF Man
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:18:07 -0700, SF Man wrote:

Am watching this video to learn how to adjust the carb:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs


Doh. I just realized the "L", "H", and "T" embossed on the cover that I
first removed indicated the low, high, and ... hmmm ... I guess "throttle"
adjustment screws?

Both the "L" and the "H" pin are NOT screws. Clearly they are not designed
to be adjusted. Again, this may be a California (smog) thing. To discourage
you from touching them, there is a point instead of a screw slot; and they
have a housing around them just so you can't easily get to them.

The "T" screw is easy to get to, even with all the covers on as there is a
slot in the plastic to allow access. Do you think the "T" is for throttle?


If the T is for throttle - that may just fix your idle problem.

Is that the screw with the spring? When adjusting a screw, on the
carb, count the number of turns it takes to seat the screw. Not tight,
but just seated.

Back the screw out shy or past the number you wrote down.

Get it running and adjust a second time...
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:18:07 -0700, SF Man
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:14:12 -0700, Oren wrote:
A bright blue color with a loud "snap snap" is what to look for.


Bluish yellow. No snapping sound though.


I would close the gap about the thickness of a match-book cover,
trying to get a snappy blue spark.

Am watching this video to learn how to adjust the carb:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhXGWF-B_hs

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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:40:27 -0700, SF Man
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:14:12 -0700, Oren wrote:
Do you recall the color of the spark? A yellow/orange is a weak spark
(bad plug gap or weak ignition).


It was a no go when I tried to start it just now. No catching at all.

If the spark is yellow mostly, how do I get it to be blue?


Try closing the gap a bit.

Oh, when you test a spark plug like this and ground it to the block -
always make sure you have a shinny surface. Use good metal and not a
painted surface.

I'll buy a new plug, but, how do I fix a weak ignition?


Find us the online manual/link for the engine.
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On 8/21/2010 3:46 PM, SF Man wrote:
I just realized that just before it stopped running, it ran really really
fast. Of course, I had protective headgear on, but, even then, thinking
back, it was running really fast.

I wonder ...

I wonder if I blew the rings somehow.

When I put my finger over the hole after removing the spark plug, and
pulled the starter cord, there was only a small puff. Noticeable. But
small.

Do you think compression might be the problem?


You can always try the compressed air trick. If it won't run
on compressed air, there could be an internal problem with
the piston and rings.

TDD


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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On 2010-08-21, SF Man wrote:

pulled the starter cord, there was only a small puff. Noticeable. But
small.


Be more definitive. Did it puff past you finger/thumb, regardless of
how hard you pressed to stop it? If so, that's enough compression.

nb
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On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:57:48 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:

You will have to make sure those are clear when
you have the carb apart spray carb cleaner into all the little holes


This is an excellent treatise. It explains a lot, e.g., why I can't find
the L and H carb screws (they're pinned apparently). And why the T screw
didn't do anything useful.

BTW, I tried to "listen" for the snap of the spark across the gap but you
just can't hear it because of the noise made while you're pulling the
starter so that snap test will always fail. But, I can "see" the spark
easily so I'm gonna assume it's the air:fuel ratio.

I guess it's time to take the carb apart. I have MAF cleaner in stock
(xylene) but not carb cleaner, so, I'll have to stop off at the store about
15 miles away to go and get it.
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 16:34:27 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

You can always try the compressed air trick.


I didn't want to say this but I totally didn't get the compressed air
trick. How are you going to COMPRESS the air in the spark plug hole and
keep it there? The second you remove the air gun, the air will blow out the
open spark plug hole. And, even then, with no spark plug, what's gonna
ignite the mixture inside?

I just didn't understnad it at all? Sorry.
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 21:41:19 GMT, notbob wrote:

Be more definitive. Did it puff past you finger/thumb, regardless of
how hard you pressed to stop it? If so, that's enough compression.


No. I could easily hold my thumb on the hole. It puffed like the way you
would blow a fly off your wrist.

Of course, it's only a 40cc engine ... so I'm not sure how much compression
it should have.
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"SF Man" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 21:41:19 GMT, notbob wrote:

Be more definitive. Did it puff past you finger/thumb, regardless of
how hard you pressed to stop it? If so, that's enough compression.


No. I could easily hold my thumb on the hole. It puffed like the way you
would blow a fly off your wrist.

Of course, it's only a 40cc engine ... so I'm not sure how much
compression
it should have.


It will have enough to be unequivocably noticeable.
Now, this doesnt always mean rings.



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On 8/21/2010 6:01 PM, SF Man wrote:
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 16:34:27 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

You can always try the compressed air trick.


I didn't want to say this but I totally didn't get the compressed air
trick. How are you going to COMPRESS the air in the spark plug hole and
keep it there? The second you remove the air gun, the air will blow out the
open spark plug hole. And, even then, with no spark plug, what's gonna
ignite the mixture inside?

I just didn't understnad it at all? Sorry.


All reciprocating (piston) engines are basically air pumps.
The characteristics of a two cycle engine allow you to run
it on compressed air. You hook an air hose to the spark
plug hole, feed it with a steady supply of compressed air,
pull the starter cord and the engine will run on the compressed
air. The pressurized air is taking the place of the explosion
of fuel/air to push the piston down. A two cycle engine exhausts
every time the piston goes down which is why the compressed air
can be used to run it. When I check a two cycle motor with air,
I stick a rubber blow gun tip into the spark plug hole and hold
it there. I don't run it for hours, just a minute or so in order
to test the ignition for spark output and make sure there are
no problems with piston and rings. It's not rocket surgery. 8-)

TDD
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SF Man wrote:
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 21:41:19 GMT, notbob wrote:

Be more definitive. Did it puff past you finger/thumb, regardless of
how hard you pressed to stop it? If so, that's enough compression.


No. I could easily hold my thumb on the hole. It puffed like the way you
would blow a fly off your wrist.

Of course, it's only a 40cc engine ... so I'm not sure how much compression
it should have.


Unless you ran it without oil in the gas or without the air cleaner
I'd not worry about the compression. If you can't get it running to
your satisfaction with the OEM carb then what you might want to do, if
you use this thing very much, is find a retrofit carburetor for it.
Something like this, you will have to cross reference things and
make sure it will work with your engine. Engine size, bolt patterns,
throttle linkage, fuel lines etc. Notice these have low and high speed
adjustments. No primer bulb on these, you shouldn't need it or the side
plate with the primer bulb from your carb might fit on one of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/WALBRO-WT-20-CHA...efaultDomain_0

All in all you ought to be able to get your OEM carb working well
enough, sometimes a bread tie, the wire in a bread tie is useful to try
to clean the little holes in small engine carburetors or a single
bristle cut off from a wire brush will work.
Have fun.
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On 2010-08-21, SF Man wrote:

No. I could easily hold my thumb on the hole. It puffed like the way you
would blow a fly off your wrist.


Before you give up, remove the spark plug, squirt or pour some motor
oil into the cylinder, and cycle the engine a few times, rotating it
around so the oil gets everywhere in the cylinder coating rings and
cyl wall, then press your thumb down hard on the open spark plug hole.
Make sure you have the hrottle wide open, then try again.

Of course, it's only a 40cc engine ... so I'm not sure how much compression
it should have.


Size of the cylinder has no bearing on amount of pressure. A two
stroke engine needs a minimum amount of compression pressure to get
good combustion. As an old 2-stroke motorcycle mechanic, I can assure
you that "minimum amount" will blow past your finger/thumb no matter
the cyl size or how hard you resist. It's truest "rule of thumb"
ever.

nb
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They aren't really cleanable. Please search out another one, and buy
two (one for now, one for later.)

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"SF Man" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 08:02:42 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
J-hook to pull the rubber hose and filter out.


Come to think of it, the chain saw DID start blurbling in a deep bass
sound
when I was tilting it while running.

It no longer runs. I will check out this hidden fuel filter and clean
it
out with compressed air if I can.


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Timing, not sure about. Compression, tests like most other engines,
I'd guess. Since it obviously spins easier with the plug out, you have
at least some compression.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"SF Man"
wrote in message ...


I guess it could be compression or timing.

Is there a test for two-stroke compression & timing?




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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 19:08:40 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It's not rocket surgery. 8-)


LOL!



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On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 15:25:33 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Timing, not sure about. Compression, tests like most other engines,
I'd guess. Since it obviously spins easier with the plug out, you have
at least some compression.


That's a good point. It does spin easier (much easier) with the plug out.
Also, I tried blowing abouit 50psi compressed air into the spark plug hole
.... with mixed results.

- If the piston was at the top, it fluttered.
- If the piston was at another spot, it blew out the exhaust.
- If the piston was at yet another spot, it blew out the carbeurator.

But it never did run the thing (I think because of the pull-cord clutch
mechanism because it 'looked' like it wanted to spin but couldn't spin.
Probably because it wasn't fast enough to make the pull-cord clutch
disengage.
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On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 19:08:40 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

All reciprocating (piston) engines are basically air pumps.


Ah. Now I understand what you're saying. Thanks for the details.

I tried blowing about 50psi compressed air into the spark plug hole ...
with mixed results (my compressor doesn't go higher than that).

- If the piston was at the top, it fluttered (see details below).
- If the piston was at another spot, it blew out the exhaust.
- If the piston was at yet another spot, it blew out the carbeurator.

But it never did run the thing (I think because of the pull-cord clutch
mechanism because it 'looked' like it wanted to spin but couldn't spin.
Probably because it wasn't fast enough to make the pull-cord clutch
disengage.

So, I think the "fluttering" was the piston trying to turn the crankshaft
but it couldn't because of the pull cord. I guess I could remove the pull
cord and test it without the pull-cord clutch...
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 01:29:48 GMT, notbob wrote:

Size of the cylinder has no bearing on amount of pressure.


That makes sense. I practically filled the thing with carb cleaner today.
I'm letting it all dry out before I try again.

If this last ditch effort doesn't work, plan B is to bring it to a shop for
an estimate.

Plan C, is to buy a NON-CALIFORNIA chain saw on the net. Can you recommend
a good place to buy chain saws (NON CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS) that actually
have adjustable "L" low and "H" high screws for the carb?

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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On 8/22/2010 7:15 PM, SF Man wrote:
On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 19:08:40 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

All reciprocating (piston) engines are basically air pumps.


Ah. Now I understand what you're saying. Thanks for the details.

I tried blowing about 50psi compressed air into the spark plug hole ...
with mixed results (my compressor doesn't go higher than that).

- If the piston was at the top, it fluttered (see details below).
- If the piston was at another spot, it blew out the exhaust.
- If the piston was at yet another spot, it blew out the carbeurator.

But it never did run the thing (I think because of the pull-cord clutch
mechanism because it 'looked' like it wanted to spin but couldn't spin.
Probably because it wasn't fast enough to make the pull-cord clutch
disengage.

So, I think the "fluttering" was the piston trying to turn the crankshaft
but it couldn't because of the pull cord. I guess I could remove the pull
cord and test it without the pull-cord clutch...


If you'll look up how a two cycle engine works, you will understand
why the air came out where it did. The position of the piston is
what acts like the valves in a four cycle engine by uncovering the
intake port or the exhaust port. If the reed valve is good, there
shouldn't be any air coming out of the carburetor. Here's a link to
an animation that shows how a two stroke engine works:

http://science.howstuffworks.com/tra...wo-stroke2.htm

http://preview.tinyurl.com/33qdr5p

A bad reed valve could keep it from running on compressed air.

TDD


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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:01:18 -0700, Roy wrote:
Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears
Craftsman 358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Whoops...that should be Poulan...a spellin' error.


Lots of Craftsman chain saws are Poulan. Mines a Poulan PP3516.

Look here for a manual
http://www.billious.com/ipls/pwe/pp3...2005-06-03.pdf

Call Poulan for help
1-800-554-6723

There's nothing you can really adjust except the "T" screw (the "L" and
"H" screws are California locked). The chain saw has to be thrown away
once every two years as they won't last any longer than that (certified
to last only 125 hours in California).




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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On 2010-08-23, SF Man wrote:

Plan C, is to buy a NON-CALIFORNIA chain saw on the net. Can you recommend
a good place to buy chain saws (NON CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS) that actually
have adjustable "L" low and "H" high screws for the carb?


Sorry, but I've had little to no experience with chainsaws and
2-stroke yard tools, despite their being the same engines. In fact, I
had a terrible time with the chainsaws and gas trimmers I inherited
when my brother passed away. I couldn't get any of them to start,
either, mainly cuz they were all junk, with cracked primer bulbs and
hardened broken fuel lines and cracked plug wires. There's some real
crappy merchandise being foisted off on the public, these days.

nb
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

SF Man wrote:
On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

The mush button for the gas is the primer. Try it x2 pushes, instead
of six. Sounds like you're flooding the hell out of it.


It would NEVER start with just 2x. The owners manual says to use 6x; the
bulb has a 6x embossed just below it; and the complex starting instructions
on the sticker on the side say 6x. Even when new, it barely started with
6x. It took more like 8x to 10x.

Dunno if it's a California thing or not but it just never ran well.

From what people say, I either need to mess with the screws on the carb or
I need to find why (if) it doesn't have spark.

I can easily mess with the screws (after finding the procedure somewhere)
... but how do I tell if it doesn't have spark?


No doubt a California discouragement system in it.

Never follow the instructions, find out what really works. Experiment.
Something preventing it from running? Take it off and throw it away.

--
LSMFT

I look outside this morning and everything was in 3D!
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 17:18:49 -0700, SF Man wrote:

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 01:29:48 GMT, notbob wrote:

Size of the cylinder has no bearing on amount of pressure.


That makes sense. I practically filled the thing with carb cleaner
today. I'm letting it all dry out before I try again.

If this last ditch effort doesn't work, plan B is to bring it to a shop
for an estimate.


Check that the gasket between the carb and engine is good, that the carb
is bolted on tightly, and that the crankcase cover[1] is bolted on
tightly and with a good seal. On most of these engines the carb's fuel
pump runs from crankcase pressure, so if there are any leaks in the
system all sorts of strange things can happen - after ruling out spark
and fuel line/filter, I'd try there next I think.

Also pull the flywheel; it might be that the flywheel key has sheared and
the timing's out a little - maybe not enough to stop it running (with a
loss of power, but that might not be noticable), but enough to make it
hard to start.

[1] taking the cover off for a moment just to see if the bore is damaged
might not be a bad idea, either.

(re. compression, I posted here about a 4-stroke mower engine earlier in
the year; that one turned out to be compression loss due to bore damage,
even though it felt like it had "enough" compression when I stuck my
thumb over the spark plug hole)

cheers

Jules
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw


"SF Man" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 01:29:48 GMT, notbob wrote:

Size of the cylinder has no bearing on amount of pressure.


That makes sense. I practically filled the thing with carb cleaner today.
I'm letting it all dry out before I try again.

If this last ditch effort doesn't work, plan B is to bring it to a shop
for
an estimate.

Plan C, is to buy a NON-CALIFORNIA chain saw on the net. Can you recommend
a good place to buy chain saws (NON CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS) that actually
have adjustable "L" low and "H" high screws for the carb?


I would recommend you go straight to "B". An honest saw mechanic can either
fix this
rascal quickly, or he can tell you it isnt worth fixing.

I never bought a saw on the net. My first chain saw was an Echo, and it was
a heck of a
good saw. Then I bought a Husqvarna (also a great saw, stolen by a couple
of drugheads), and
then a replacement Husqvarna.

I dont know if an internet company CAN ship a noncomplying saw to
California.

Note that some saws have what they used to call 50 hour engines. That is
about the life
expectancy of them.



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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 09:51:13 -0500, hls wrote:
Note that some saws have what they used to call 50 hour engines. That
is about the life expectancy of them.


Or you get a "Friday engine", assembled by someone who is itching to get
away for the weekend and so not paying as much attention to their work as
they should :-(

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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 20:30:10 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

This is the California Poulan owners manual for my Craftsman chain saw.
http://www.billious.com/ipls/pwe/pp3...2005-06-03.pdf

Unfortunately you can't adjust anything when/if the carb gets clogged.

It's California's way of stimulating the economy while saving the
environment.

It either works or you throw it away and buy a new one every two years.

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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On 2010-08-23, jm wrote:

It either works or you throw it away and buy a new one every two years.


Now you got it! It even has a name: planned obsolescence.

nb
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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

In message , Jules Richardson
writes
Or you get a "Friday engine", assembled by someone who is itching to get
away for the weekend and so not paying as much attention to their work as
they should :-(


This was the problem with British cars. Every car was a Friday
afternoon car.
--
Clive

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Default How do you "tune up" a hard-to-start Craftsman 18" chainsaw

On Aug 23, 11:39*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 17:51:08 +0000, notbob wrote:
On 2010-08-23, jm wrote:


It either works or you throw it away and buy a new one every two years..


Now you got it! *It even has a name: planned obsolescence.


and it's just great for the environment, all that taking stuff to the
dump and making replacements...


I just fixed the wife's 31 yr old Kitchenaid dishwasher (motor bearing
and seal kit). You can't buy 'em as good anymore.
Hobart made a fine machine.
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