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Uno Uno is offline
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Posts: 137
Default polyurethane question

This question is about half home repair and half construction materials,
so I've x-posted where I think appropriate.

http://tinypic.com/r/dzxdgg/4

I'm trying to integrate visual media into what I do as a handyman. I
find the advice I get on usenet invaluable, as many of the things I do
here in abq are with building systems I haven't seen before, like a
residential roof with a zero slope or quarter inch compression water
supply to the evaporitive coolers that sit on these roofs, just waiting
to fail and compromise everything beneath it.

Polyurethaning is something I do pretty often, and I experiment with
which techniques work best. I had the brilliant idea of rolling it on,
and I used polyurethane that had become viscous. Long story short, by
the time I got rid of all bubbles, I had a very thick coat that now has
a gloss that doesn't match the rest of the room. So I'm fishing for
tips on how I'm gonna make this look nice.

Let me state a few things that seem to work well.

1) This foam thing works really well. It's cheap and there are no
bristles to end up on the floor.

2) Thinning the poly with paint thinner to make a thin coat seems to
work best. You can just pour it on then. Thinning seems to be the way
to make it not bubble.

3) Keeping a rag and detergent water around for a final cleaning of any
hair, sawdust or other loose contaminant works well. I notice nothing
averse by applying poly to wood that has recently been slightly wet.

4) Using a scraper blade for removal of any paint speckles or gooey
thing that appears when you have your nose right up to it works well.

q1) My first question is fairly general: how do I use poly best to
finish a parquet maple floor?

q2) How do I fix the non-matching sheens here?

q3) Is there a way to make poly harder or more scuff resistant?

Thanks for your comment, and cheers,
--
Uno
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