miter question
 

i have a wall that is about hip high that forms a 90 degree enclosing a
set of steps going down to the basement. i would like to widen( or cap )
the top with some wider lumber so that it may be used for placing
knick-knacks, pictures etc. but it seems to me that the length of each
piece (forms a 90 )needs to be longer than the narrower mitered pieces
that i will be attaching to. am i right and is there a formula to
determine what the length of the new wider pieces of lumber that will be
attached?
thanks, cj

miter question
 

cj wrote:
i have a wall that is about hip high that forms a 90 degree enclosing a
set of steps going down to the basement. i would like to widen( or cap )
the top with some wider lumber so that it may be used for placing
knick-knacks, pictures etc. but it seems to me that the length of each
piece (forms a 90 )needs to be longer than the narrower mitered pieces
that i will be attaching to. am i right and is there a formula to
determine what the length of the new wider pieces of lumber that will be
attached?

Finished overall length is distance to outside of wall plus overhang.
Start by making the miter joints fit w/ material w/ length to spare then
cut square ends to length.

If use very wide solid material, be _very_ sure it is _completely_ dry
or the miter will open up as it dries and shrinks. If you want a really
wide cap, you might consider using cabinet-grade ply for the main pieces
and face it w/ matching hardwood.

--

miter question
 

dpb wrote:
cj wrote:
i have a wall that is about hip high that forms a 90 degree enclosing
a set of steps going down to the basement. i would like to widen( or
cap ) the top with some wider lumber so that it may be used for
placing knick-knacks, pictures etc. but it seems to me that the length
of each piece (forms a 90 )needs to be longer than the narrower
mitered pieces that i will be attaching to. am i right and is there a
formula to determine what the length of the new wider pieces of lumber
that will be attached?

Finished overall length is distance to outside of wall plus overhang.
Start by making the miter joints fit w/ material w/ length to spare then
cut square ends to length.

If use very wide solid material, be _very_ sure it is _completely_ dry
or the miter will open up as it dries and shrinks. If you want a really
wide cap, you might consider using cabinet-grade ply for the main pieces
and face it w/ matching hardwood.

--


cabinet-grade ply

is that something that home depot would stock?
thanks, cj

miter question
 

On Jun 14, 8:57*am, cj wrote:
dpb wrote:
cj wrote:
i have a wall that is about hip high that forms a 90 degree enclosing
a set of steps going down to the basement. i would like to widen( or
cap ) the top with some wider lumber so that it may be used for
placing knick-knacks, pictures etc. but it seems to me that the length
of each piece (forms a 90 )needs to be longer than the narrower
mitered pieces that i will be attaching to. am i right and is there a
formula to determine what the length of the new wider pieces of lumber
that will be attached?

Finished overall length is distance to outside of wall plus overhang.
Start by making the miter joints fit w/ material w/ length to spare then
cut square ends to length.

If use very wide solid material, be _very_ sure it is _completely_ dry
or the miter will open up as it dries and shrinks. *If you want a really
wide cap, you might consider using cabinet-grade ply for the main pieces
and face it w/ matching hardwood.

--

cabinet-grade ply

is that something that home depot would stock?
thanks, cj- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know lowes has it. Home depot probably does too. You'll need a
table saw to cut it accurately. Since this is stairs to the basement
and we have no idea of the finish or usage of your basement you
probably ought to start with a budget. I say this because cabinet ply
ain't cheap in sizes big enough to cut shelves from. What abouts are
you thinkng this should cost you? Is painted and acceptable finish or
do you want to be able to stain this?

miter question
 

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jun 14, 8:57 am, cj wrote:
dpb wrote:
cj wrote:
i have a wall that is about hip high that forms a 90 degree enclosing
a set of steps going down to the basement. i would like to widen( or
cap ) the top with some wider lumber so that it may be used for
placing knick-knacks, pictures etc. but it seems to me that the length
of each piece (forms a 90 )needs to be longer than the narrower
mitered pieces that i will be attaching to. am i right and is there a
formula to determine what the length of the new wider pieces of lumber
that will be attached?
Finished overall length is distance to outside of wall plus overhang.
Start by making the miter joints fit w/ material w/ length to spare then
cut square ends to length.
If use very wide solid material, be _very_ sure it is _completely_ dry
or the miter will open up as it dries and shrinks. If you want a really
wide cap, you might consider using cabinet-grade ply for the main pieces
and face it w/ matching hardwood.
--
cabinet-grade ply

is that something that home depot would stock?
thanks, cj- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know lowes has it. Home depot probably does too. You'll need a
table saw to cut it accurately. Since this is stairs to the basement
and we have no idea of the finish or usage of your basement you
probably ought to start with a budget. I say this because cabinet ply
ain't cheap in sizes big enough to cut shelves from. What abouts are
you thinkng this should cost you? Is painted and acceptable finish or
do you want to be able to stain this?

i am going to stain the top pieces which will probably be maple...i
thought about painting the underside with kilz to prevent moisture from
getting in
cj

miter question
 

In article ,
cj wrote:

i have a wall that is about hip high that forms a 90 degree enclosing a
set of steps going down to the basement. i would like to widen( or cap )
the top with some wider lumber so that it may be used for placing
knick-knacks, pictures etc. but it seems to me that the length of each
piece (forms a 90 )needs to be longer than the narrower mitered pieces
that i will be attaching to. am i right and is there a formula to
determine what the length of the new wider pieces of lumber that will be
attached?
thanks, cj

Forgot your junior high trigonometry? It's a right triangle, fer
christ's sake. If the overhang is 3", it'll be 3" longer as well.

miter question
 

On Jun 14, 9:19*am, cj wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jun 14, 8:57 am, cj wrote:
dpb wrote:
cj wrote:
i have a wall that is about hip high that forms a 90 degree enclosing
a set of steps going down to the basement. i would like to widen( or
cap ) the top with some wider lumber so that it may be used for
placing knick-knacks, pictures etc. but it seems to me that the length
of each piece (forms a 90 )needs to be longer than the narrower
mitered pieces that i will be attaching to. am i right and is there a
formula to determine what the length of the new wider pieces of lumber
that will be attached?
Finished overall length is distance to outside of wall plus overhang.
Start by making the miter joints fit w/ material w/ length to spare then
cut square ends to length.
If use very wide solid material, be _very_ sure it is _completely_ dry
or the miter will open up as it dries and shrinks. *If you want a really
wide cap, you might consider using cabinet-grade ply for the main pieces
and face it w/ matching hardwood.
--
cabinet-grade ply

is that something that home depot would stock?
thanks, cj- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know lowes has it. *Home depot probably does too. *You'll need a
table saw to cut it accurately. *Since this is stairs to the basement
and we have no idea of the finish or usage of your basement you
probably ought to start with a budget. *I say this because cabinet ply
ain't cheap in sizes big enough to cut shelves from. *What abouts are
you thinkng this should cost you? *Is painted and acceptable finish or
do you want to be able to stain this?

i am going to stain the top pieces which will probably be maple...i
thought about painting the underside with kilz to prevent moisture from
getting in
cj- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Does the area have humidity issues? What is under your proposed
shelves? dpb is right, a miter joint on long boards will have issues
if the humidity of the board and surrounding area fluctuate.

miter question
 

cj wrote:
....

is that something that home depot would stock?

Ones I'm familiar w/ do, anyway (altho haven't been where there is a
borg for over 10 yrs now, wouldn't expect basic stocking to have changed
much). I'd expect you'll find birch and oak easily although it'll
probably require purchasing a whole sheet if need over 4-ft length;
sometimes you can find half-sheets but they'll be 4x4 not 2x8.

How wide a cap are you thinking of?

--

miter question
 

cj wrote:
i have a wall that is about hip high that forms a 90 degree enclosing
a set of steps going down to the basement. i would like to widen( or
cap ) the top with some wider lumber so that it may be used for
placing knick-knacks, pictures etc. but it seems to me that the
length of each piece (forms a 90 )needs to be longer than the
narrower mitered pieces that i will be attaching to. am i right and
is there a formula to determine what the length of the new wider
pieces of lumber that will be attached?
thanks, cj

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_theorem