advice on table top finish
 

On Fri, 4 Jun 2010 18:06:40 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

I have a dining table top with a repaired veneer finish. It has had three
coats of waterbased Ronseal called 'Diamond hard varnish' put onto to it.
Trouble is, that if water is not wiped off staight away from this varnish
(and say gets trapped under a flower vase of water); it creates a white ring
stain.

I want to put on an *oiled* based coat and phoned ronseal technical help
line to see if it was ok to paint their oil based 'ultra tough varnish' on
top of the water based diamond hard varnish. They said it was ok to do so.

I forgot to ask them if the oil based ultra tough is a *polyurathane*
varnish or not, and their office is now closed for the weekend. (i want to
do it this weekend). I cannot find whether it is or not a polyurathane
varnish from their website.

Is this ultra tough varnish likely to be more *scratch resistant* than the
diamond hard varnish already on the table or not, would you say?

Also it comes in three finishes; gloss, satin and matt. I would prefer to
use the matt, but have been told by someone that usually gloss is more
hardwearing than matt paints. Do you think that it would make much
difference between gloss and matt with this ultra tough varnish? Thanks
for any advice.


Just finished a small table with the Ronseal Ultra-tough varnish. 2 coats,
allowed 48h to dry, went to rub lightly to put a 3rd, coat just on the top
and the foam block (the sort with medium and fine grit) didn't do anything
for a start! Had to press hard, then gave up and changed to proper paper.

It is PU; resists 'most household chemicals' and boiling water, so if you
want to cook the flowers...
I used satin and it has a medium, deep sheen to it.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.