Items a customer should put in a drywall contract
 

I am going to be getting estimates and then signing a contract to have
3 rooms (game room, bedroom, storage room) in my basement, drywalled,
taped, and textured.

I would like to get some suggestions for "Do's and Don'ts" that I
should specify in my contract to makes sure the contractor does not
implement any "inappropriate" shortcuts that result in a less than
optimum result.

For example:

1. The drywall shall be attached with screws.
2. ...

Thanks,
Jess

Items a customer should put in a drywall contract
 

I am going to be getting estimates and then signing a contract to have
3 rooms (game room, bedroom, storage room) in my basement, drywalled,
taped, and textured.

I would like to get some suggestions for "Do's and Don'ts" that I
should specify in my contract to makes sure the contractor does not
implement any "inappropriate" shortcuts that result in a less than
optimum result.

For example:

1. The drywall shall be attached with screws.
2. ...


*I'm not a fan of textured drywall because it is so difficult to match after
a repair has been made.

Items a customer should put in a drywall contract
 

'On May 1, 3:19*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
I am going to be getting estimates and then signing a contract to have
3 rooms (game room, bedroom, storage room) in my basement, drywalled,
taped, and textured.

I would like to get some suggestions for "Do's and Don'ts" that I
should specify in my contract to makes sure the contractor does not
implement any "inappropriate" shortcuts that result in a less than
optimum result.

For example:

1. The drywall shall be attached with screws.
2. ...

*I'm not a fan of textured drywall because it is so difficult to match after
a repair has been made.

Echo that. It's unlikely that you'll ever touch the ceilings again,
and some form of texture is often preferable aesthetically, but do you
really want texture on the walls? If you ever scrape it need access
to pipes or wires etc you're going to having to repair the texture.
I've tried to match many times - there are numerous techniques you
will see if you google - but none of them blend in well and I've
always ended up respraying the whole wall which is a major PITA.
Also, I don't like the way orange peel looks after it's had more than
a couple of coats of paint - looks like a more sloppy finish.
Moreover, I don't think you can beat a nice flat finish on a well
mudded wall.

Anyway....to actually answer your question... I would require taping
of all joints (seems obvious, I know), I assume you want 1/2", I would
give them a clear time limit to get the job done (ideally you'd like
to see consecutive days until they're done, but it may not work out
like that unless you make it a requirement) and would include one coat
of primer as part of the job so you can properly assess the quality of
the finish before you pay up.

Cub

Items a customer should put in a drywall contract
 

"Suzy" wrote in message
...
'On May 1, 3:19 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
I am going to be getting estimates and then signing a contract to have
3 rooms (game room, bedroom, storage room) in my basement, drywalled,
taped, and textured.

I would like to get some suggestions for "Do's and Don'ts" that I
should specify in my contract to makes sure the contractor does not
implement any "inappropriate" shortcuts that result in a less than
optimum result.

For example:

1. The drywall shall be attached with screws.
2. ...

*I'm not a fan of textured drywall because it is so difficult to match
after
a repair has been made.

Echo that. It's unlikely that you'll ever touch the ceilings again,
and some form of texture is often preferable aesthetically, but do you
really want texture on the walls? If you ever scrape it need access
to pipes or wires etc you're going to having to repair the texture.
I've tried to match many times - there are numerous techniques you
will see if you google - but none of them blend in well and I've
always ended up respraying the whole wall which is a major PITA.
Also, I don't like the way orange peel looks after it's had more than
a couple of coats of paint - looks like a more sloppy finish.
Moreover, I don't think you can beat a nice flat finish on a well
mudded wall.

Anyway....to actually answer your question... I would require taping
of all joints (seems obvious, I know), I assume you want 1/2", I would
give them a clear time limit to get the job done (ideally you'd like
to see consecutive days until they're done, but it may not work out
like that unless you make it a requirement) and would include one coat
of primer as part of the job so you can properly assess the quality of
the finish before you pay up.

Cub



Stay away from textures..They always end up being a PITA and look like crap
after a while as pointed out...

1. Since it is a basement Moisture and Mold Resistant Sheetrock is an
option..

2. Ceiling will be strapped 16 inches on center with 1X3 fir strapping..

3.All USG materials will be used and applied to manufactures specs...(Other
brands are fine too , again to spec)

4. All corner bead will be nailed on and not crimped on..

5. Work will be done in a timely manner..(Sometimes due to drying time
consecutive days are not possible on a job that small especially in a
basement)

6. Any extra daily clean up requirements or other special considerations..

7. All scrap sheetrock and garbage is the responsibility of the contractor
to remove and dispose of

8. A coat of primer to be applied to manufacturer's specs..( if you
want)...


You should also TELL them where to pull power from , where to park and what
bathroom to use...HTH...Of course if you do some of that it will reduce your
cost...

Items a customer should put in a drywall contract
 

Get the ceilings done with double layer of drywall to increase
soundproofing. That is best soundproofing method and cheap when done at the
start. The drywall comes with two layers taped together which contractor
cuts to separate the sheets. So it is easy to have a double layer unless
there is a lot of cutting required. In that case have the sheets separated
and installed with overlap. Only the last layer needs taping.

The extra mass absorbs sound very well. I wish I had even done the doubling
for my house upstairs bedrooms to minimize sound transmission from room to
room. Only heard about doubling after job was done and I complained about
noise. Then they tell you that doubling is standard when noise is an issue.

Items a customer should put in a drywall contract
 

On May 1, 12:41�pm, Jess wrote:
I am going to be getting estimates and then signing a contract to have
3 rooms (game room, bedroom, storage room) in my basement, drywalled,
taped, and textured.

I would like to get some suggestions for "Do's and Don'ts" that I
should specify in my contract to makes sure the contractor does not
implement any "inappropriate" shortcuts that result in a less than
optimum result.

For example:

1. The drywall shall be attached with screws.
2. ...

Thanks,
Jess

basements are really meant to have open cielings for easy repair
access.

sure dont think about it now, but ponder my statement when your
tearing down a cieling looking for a leak:(

At least make a map with measurements and photos of where EVERYTHING
IS. and keep it secure for future reference and future owners:)

Realize it ILLEGAL to drywall over or make inaccesible ANY electric
boxes.

Somone did that to my old house, had dimming lights:( had to tear down
most of the cieling:( then ripped the rest out and went with suspended
tiles

Items a customer should put in a drywall contract
 

On May 3, 10:37�am, Reno wrote:
Get the ceilings done with double layer of drywall to increase
soundproofing. That is best soundproofing method and cheap when done at the
start. The drywall comes with two layers taped together which contractor
cuts to separate the sheets. So it is easy to have a double layer unless
there is a lot of cutting required. In that case have the sheets separated
and installed with overlap. Only the last layer needs taping.

The extra mass absorbs sound very well. I wish I had even done the doubling
for my house upstairs bedrooms to minimize sound transmission from room to
room. Only heard about doubling after job was done and I complained about
noise. Then they tell you that doubling is standard when noise is an issue.

theres sound proofing batt insulation. and special sound deadening
drywall scred not to joists but special hangers.

but before you do any of this has water EVER gotten into your basement
EVER?

if so address that first.!!!!