Has anybody had any experience with using those shrink wrap polyolefin
interior storm windows?

Either the DIY style, like http://www.ehow.com/way_5369715_diy-...m-windows.html

Or the commercial types, like
http://www.windotherm.com/engineeringtests.htm, one of many similar
products out there.

TimR wrote the following:
Has anybody had any experience with using those shrink wrap polyolefin
interior storm windows?

Either the DIY style, like http://www.ehow.com/way_5369715_diy-...m-windows.html

Or the commercial types, like
http://www.windotherm.com/engineeringtests.htm, one of many similar
products out there.

They work somewhat. I had used some on the outside of my basement
windows from a roll of the clear wrapping plastic that you see being
spun around a pallet of boxes, etc.
Using a digital thermal measurer, there was about a 5 degree increase in
surface temp on the interior glass with the film than the one without.
I recently replaced the film with 1/8" plastic acrylic sheeting.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Mar 17, 11:40*am, TimR wrote:
Has anybody had any experience with using those shrink wrap polyolefin
interior storm windows?

Either the DIY style, likehttp://www.ehow.com/way_5369715_diy-interior-storm-windows.html

Or the commercial types, likehttp://www.windotherm.com/engineeringtests.htm, one of many similar
products out there.

I plan to make this my summer project in preparation for next winter.
I tried just attaching shrink-wrap to our steel-casement windows a
couple winters ago, but it wasn't really very effective. Attaching
the shink wrap to a tight-fitting frame might be the ticket.

Thanks for the link.

Mike

On Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:40:11 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

Has anybody had any experience with using those shrink wrap polyolefin
interior storm windows?

Either the DIY style, like http://www.ehow.com/way_5369715_diy-...m-windows.html

Or the commercial types, like
http://www.windotherm.com/engineeringtests.htm, one of many similar
products out there.

I've used the shrink-wrap and tape inside storms on a dwindling number
of windows each year. They work well, go up fairly easy, and
eliminate all infiltration as they are supposed to.

As the windows get replaced with energy star- low-e thermopanes, the
inside storms aren't worth the effort. [to me, anyway]

I'm down to one room that will get 3 new windows to replace the 100yr
old windows with 70 year old aluminum storms this summer. I won't
miss putting those shrink-wrap deals up anymore.

Jim

This isn't sounding good. The first two replies fail to report any
decent results. If this keeps up maybe I won't waste the effort.

Maybe I need to build something more substantial with real panes.

On Mar 17, 12:49*pm, TimR wrote:
This isn't sounding good. *The first two replies fail to report any
decent results. *If this keeps up maybe I won't waste the effort.

Maybe I need to build something more substantial with real panes.

....or replace the windows.

Even if you build "something more substantial with real panes" you'll
need a way to seal them to the windows. If you don't create a dead-air
space, you won't gain anything.

On Wed, 17 Mar 2010 10:02:49 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Mar 17, 12:49Â*pm, TimR wrote:
This isn't sounding good. Â*The first two replies fail to report any
decent results. Â*If this keeps up maybe I won't waste the effort.

Maybe I need to build something more substantial with real panes.

...or replace the windows.

Even if you build "something more substantial with real panes" you'll
need a way to seal them to the windows. If you don't create a dead-air
space, you won't gain anything.

Our back door just had single-glazing. I found a whole bunch of storm
windows with aluminum frames at the local building recyclers - nice thing
about those is that the frames come apart and can be cut (along with
their rubber seals) to whatever size you want.

I made a new frame the right size for that back door, cut the glass, then
put some foam sealant on the 'new' frame and screwed it directly to the
door. Works a treat (we used to get ice on the inside of the glass in
winter prior to that :-)

Total job only took me about 30 minutes, and the original storm windows
were only 50 cents each...

cheers

Jules

TimR wrote the following:
This isn't sounding good. The first two replies fail to report any
decent results. If this keeps up maybe I won't waste the effort.

Maybe I need to build something more substantial with real panes.

5 degrees per window isn't a decent result?
What did you expect with film?


--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Ughh, yes, I have used the blasted stuff and hated it. It took more
fuss to just put the stupid stuff on then what its worth. I found with
it, that over a few months, on windows above heaters, the double sided
tape would dry out and lose effectiveness, hence allowing the plastic
wrap to fall or become useless. And kids seemed to enjoy poking holes
into it or playing with it until it rips. Honestly, if I were you, I
would either replace the windows or go to a building recycler as
stated above. 9/10 times they will have an aluminum window that will
cover beautifully already there. If not, they are really easy to take
apart and customize for your application. Good Luck, hope this helps.

camryguy wrote the following:
Ughh, yes, I have used the blasted stuff and hated it. It took more
fuss to just put the stupid stuff on then what its worth. I found with
it, that over a few months, on windows above heaters, the double sided
tape would dry out and lose effectiveness, hence allowing the plastic
wrap to fall or become useless. And kids seemed to enjoy poking holes
into it or playing with it until it rips. Honestly, if I were you, I
would either replace the windows or go to a building recycler as
stated above. 9/10 times they will have an aluminum window that will
cover beautifully already there. If not, they are really easy to take
apart and customize for your application. Good Luck, hope this helps.

My basement windows are 30" x 16-1/2" and are the hopper type that can
be reversed to open in from the top or bottom. The film was on the
outside of the window frame and was taped to the frame. I couldn't put
it on the inside because the latch was in the way. There is also a bug
screen outside that protects the film from flying stones or other debris
when mowing. The film never deteriorated or became damaged.
I did replace the film with a more permanent acrylic sheet that fit
nicely into a recess around the outside of the frame.
But still, the film did provide enough of a difference in temps for me
to buy the acrylic sheets.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @