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#1
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Drywall 9' walls
Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout.
His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve |
#2
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Drywall 9' walls
willshak wrote:
Steve Barker wrote the following: Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut 1' off them. Well normally 8' walls would be hung horizontally. Hate the thought of all those vertical tape joints. |
#3
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Drywall 9' walls
Steve Barker wrote the following:
Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut 1' off them. -- Bill In Hamptonburgh, NY In the original Orange County. Est. 1683 To email, remove the double zeroes after @ |
#4
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 22, 9:47*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
willshak wrote: Steve Barker wrote the following: Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. *what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut 1' off them. Well normally 8' walls would be hung horizontally. Hate the thought of all those vertical tape joints. Out in SoCal, I've seen 9' ceilings done with two 4' wide sheets (hung horizontally) and a "belly band" of about 1' between the two sheets. I was surprised at this configuration since not all belly band edges would be tapered. But I guess ease of taping (more accessible height) was more imorptant than edge tapers? cheers Bob |
#5
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Drywall 9' walls
what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut 1' off them. No, actually they sell 9 ft drywall board. I used it vertically in my basement |
#6
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Drywall 9' walls
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve 54" wide sheets hung horizontally. |
#7
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Drywall 9' walls
DD_BobK wrote:
On Feb 22, 9:47 pm, Steve Barker wrote: willshak wrote: Steve Barker wrote the following: Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut 1' off them. Well normally 8' walls would be hung horizontally. Hate the thought of all those vertical tape joints. Out in SoCal, I've seen 9' ceilings done with two 4' wide sheets (hung horizontally) and a "belly band" of about 1' between the two sheets. I was surprised at this configuration since not all belly band edges would be tapered. But I guess ease of taping (more accessible height) was more imorptant than edge tapers? cheers Bob thanks for the reply. I did do one wall this way in an older house we rehabbed. I had to tear out one plaster wall to replace a sewer stack and did exactly what you said here. It worked out well having the band in the middle. At least no bending over to work it. |
#8
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Drywall 9' walls
Joe wrote:
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve 54" wide sheets hung horizontally. NOW you're talking my game! I wasn't really sure if such a thing were available. Does it come in sheetrock brand? |
#9
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Drywall 9' walls
DanG wrote:
Any commercial drywall supply carries 9' drywall and 54" drywall for exactly your reason. Commercial work would usually run the 9' vertical, residential would run the 54. Why the difference for commercial vs residential? |
#10
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Drywall 9' walls
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve If you can't find the wider board or choose not to pay the price consider hanging 2 four foot boards. One at the top and one at the bottom. Use 3/8" non tapered, well planned edges for the center band. By the time you finish the double joints you will have a really smooth wall and only use a little extra mud and tape. You will get 3 cuts from each 3/8" board using this method. I have done this more than once with very pleasing results each time. -- Colbyt Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com |
#11
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Drywall 9' walls
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#12
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 23, 3:36*am, "Joe" wrote:
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. *what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve 54" wide sheets hung horizontally. Yep, I wondered if anyone would point out that such are available. May need special order though. Hanging sheets vertically is a tapers nightmare. I learned that the first time I did my own. Harry K |
#13
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Drywall 9' walls
Steve Barker wrote:
Joe wrote: "Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve 54" wide sheets hung horizontally. NOW you're talking my game! I wasn't really sure if such a thing were available. Does it come in sheetrock brand? All major manufacturers. May not be at the box store. -- |
#14
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Drywall 9' walls
Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout.
His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? We built our own house and had walls varying from 8' to 15'. I personally prefer to hang sheets vertically. This ensures all edges are supported by framing, and all edges on the wall are tapered for smoother joints (you would end up with butt joints if your walls are longer than 16', which we had many). True, it will be a bit more work to tape, but I've always done it this way and haven't found it to be a big deal. Another advantage to hanging sheets vertically is you can use standard off the shelf drywall 4x8, 4x10, or 4x12, cut to the height of your wall. It wastes a little drywall, but can save over special order fees. If you're working alone, hanging sheets vertically usually allows you to use smaller sheets which means less weight to carry. If you do choose to hang sheets horizontally, and can't find wider sheets, my preference would be a 1' band at the top or the bottom, so you can maintain tapered edges. Tapered edges allow much smoother joints, and you'll really appreciate the difference if you have to mount a cabinet to the wall or something (no "bulge" in the wall from the butt joint). I put a 1' band at the top of the wall when we remodeled my in-laws bathroom. I had to climb the ladder to do the ceiling corners anyway, so it was easy to do the seam near the top of the wall at the same time. I would normally cut down 10' sheets and hang them vertically, but in this case it was more efficient to hang the sheets horizontally (less waste). Anthony |
#15
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Drywall 9' walls
"Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve BTW, if you're not *really* good at the finishing work, but are good at taping, you can make the time vs $$ numbers work by doing the hanging, taping and 1st coat of mud yourself, then hiring someone else to do the finishing. There are good guys looking for side work, and while you might get to the same end result as they do, I can almost guarantee they'll get there faster... My $1/50, ymmv, etc... jc |
#16
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Drywall 9' walls
Any commercial drywall supply carries 9' drywall and 54" drywall
for exactly your reason. Commercial work would usually run the 9' vertical, residential would run the 54. -- ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) "Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve |
#17
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Drywall 9' walls
Harry K wrote:
On Feb 23, 3:36 am, "Joe" wrote: "Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve 54" wide sheets hung horizontally. Yep, I wondered if anyone would point out that such are available. May need special order though. Hanging sheets vertically is a tapers nightmare. I learned that the first time I did my own. I've been close to asking a similar question. my garage ceiling is about 9' 6" and was gong to ask about 10' drywall cut down and hung vertically. I would think the taping would be a breeze with all beveled seams instead of the butt joints? What am I missing? |
#18
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Drywall 9' walls
On 2010-02-24, Tony wrote:
I've been close to asking a similar question. my garage ceiling is about 9' 6" and was gong to ask about 10' drywall cut down and hung vertically. I would think the taping would be a breeze with all beveled seams instead of the butt joints? What am I missing? I don't have any direct experience, but I think the idea is that while taping, it is much easier to walk along a horizontal joint than a vertical joint. For a 4' vertical butt joint, you can probably reach the whole joint from a single location, while for a 9'6" vertical joint, you'd have to move up and down a ladder repeatedly. Cheers, Wayne |
#19
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Drywall 9' walls
wrote in message
... On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 22:11:33 -0800 (PST), DD_BobK wrote: On Feb 22, 9:47 pm, Steve Barker wrote: willshak wrote: Steve Barker wrote the following: Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut 1' off them. Well normally 8' walls would be hung horizontally. Hate the thought of all those vertical tape joints. Out in SoCal, I've seen 9' ceilings done with two 4' wide sheets (hung horizontally) and a "belly band" of about 1' between the two sheets. Any building materials supplier can provide 54 inch x 120 inch drywall if you wish to hang horizontally and avoid the belly band. Here at least, 54 inch board only comes in 12 footers. Don't know if the box stores carry these or not. Ken Ditto , that is the CORRECT way to do it...Go to any lumber or drywall place...NOT Home depot or Lowes... |
#20
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Drywall 9' walls
"HerHusband" wrote in message
... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? We built our own house and had walls varying from 8' to 15'. I personally prefer to hang sheets vertically. This ensures all edges are supported by framing, and all edges on the wall are tapered for smoother joints (you would end up with butt joints if your walls are longer than 16', which we had many). True, it will be a bit more work to tape, but I've always done it this way and haven't found it to be a big deal. Another advantage to hanging sheets vertically is you can use standard off the shelf drywall 4x8, 4x10, or 4x12, cut to the height of your wall. It wastes a little drywall, but can save over special order fees. If you're working alone, hanging sheets vertically usually allows you to use smaller sheets which means less weight to carry. If you do choose to hang sheets horizontally, and can't find wider sheets, my preference would be a 1' band at the top or the bottom, so you can maintain tapered edges. Tapered edges allow much smoother joints, and you'll really appreciate the difference if you have to mount a cabinet to the wall or something (no "bulge" in the wall from the butt joint). I put a 1' band at the top of the wall when we remodeled my in-laws bathroom. I had to climb the ladder to do the ceiling corners anyway, so it was easy to do the seam near the top of the wall at the same time. I would normally cut down 10' sheets and hang them vertically, but in this case it was more efficient to hang the sheets horizontally (less waste). Anthony Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****...Hanging sheets horizontally with 12 foot rock covers more (most times the entire wall) , is much stronger and looks flat..The job I'm on now we used 14 and 16 foot rock as well...Didn't want butt joints in the cathederal room....You wouldn't hang plywood vertically nor should you hang sheetrock that way...The only exception is steel framing in commercial work...Perfect studs and and drop ceilings with no butts on the VERY long walls where speed is the biggest concern...Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high....HTH... |
#21
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Drywall 9' walls
2. Door/windows: It is a rare 12' wall that does not have an
opening of some sort in it. Planning puts all, or almost all, butt joints above/below the openings No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an unavoidable "bulge" in the wall. While this may or may not be visible to the eye, it would make the trim installation more difficult if placed over openings like that. Anthony |
#22
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Drywall 9' walls
Metal studs, 5/8 firecode rock, no butt joints, drop ceilings.
-- ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) wrote in message m... DanG wrote: Any commercial drywall supply carries 9' drywall and 54" drywall for exactly your reason. Commercial work would usually run the 9' vertical, residential would run the 54. Why the difference for commercial vs residential? |
#23
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Drywall 9' walls
On 2010-02-25, HerHusband wrote:
No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an unavoidable "bulge" in the wall. There are solutions to avoiding a bulge at a drywall butt joint. Some of them are discussed he http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42655. Cheers, Wayne |
#24
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Drywall 9' walls
Harry K wrote:
On Feb 24, 8:48 am, Tony wrote: Harry K wrote: On Feb 23, 3:36 am, "Joe" wrote: "Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve 54" wide sheets hung horizontally. Yep, I wondered if anyone would point out that such are available. May need special order though. Hanging sheets vertically is a tapers nightmare. I learned that the first time I did my own. I've been close to asking a similar question. my garage ceiling is about 9' 6" and was gong to ask about 10' drywall cut down and hung vertically. I would think the taping would be a breeze with all beveled seams instead of the butt joints? What am I missing?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - 1. Footage: Running horizontal results in about 1/3 less footage of seams. 2. Door/windows: It is a rare 12' wall that does not have an opening of some sort in it. Planning puts all, or almost all, butt joints above/below the openings 3. Taping a butt joint, even one that has one tapered and one cut edge, is not a big deal. Just do not use the mesh type tape on a flat joint. Very hard to cover without having a buildup. 4. Crawling up/down ladders or stools while trying to do a smooth job is not fun. Learned that the hard way on my first job. You would have to hold a gun to my head before I would run vertical again. Harry K About the doors and windows, I thought putting a joint at either corner was a very big no, no. It cracks too easy. Put the whole sheet across the window, with adhesive also, and cut it after it's up. That's how I was shown to do it... while my mother kept saying the guy is wasting so much drywall and wanting to use all the scraps and have a million seams. I understand about the going up and down the ladder, something I never thought about until I heard it here. |
#25
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Drywall 9' walls
benick wrote:
"HerHusband" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? We built our own house and had walls varying from 8' to 15'. I personally prefer to hang sheets vertically. This ensures all edges are supported by framing, and all edges on the wall are tapered for smoother joints (you would end up with butt joints if your walls are longer than 16', which we had many). True, it will be a bit more work to tape, but I've always done it this way and haven't found it to be a big deal. Another advantage to hanging sheets vertically is you can use standard off the shelf drywall 4x8, 4x10, or 4x12, cut to the height of your wall. It wastes a little drywall, but can save over special order fees. If you're working alone, hanging sheets vertically usually allows you to use smaller sheets which means less weight to carry. If you do choose to hang sheets horizontally, and can't find wider sheets, my preference would be a 1' band at the top or the bottom, so you can maintain tapered edges. Tapered edges allow much smoother joints, and you'll really appreciate the difference if you have to mount a cabinet to the wall or something (no "bulge" in the wall from the butt joint). I put a 1' band at the top of the wall when we remodeled my in-laws bathroom. I had to climb the ladder to do the ceiling corners anyway, so it was easy to do the seam near the top of the wall at the same time. I would normally cut down 10' sheets and hang them vertically, but in this case it was more efficient to hang the sheets horizontally (less waste). Anthony Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****...Hanging sheets horizontally with 12 foot rock covers more (most times the entire wall) , is much stronger and looks flat..The job I'm on now we used 14 and 16 foot rock as well...Didn't want butt joints in the cathederal room....You wouldn't hang plywood vertically nor should you hang sheetrock that way...The only exception is steel framing in commercial work...Perfect studs and and drop ceilings with no butts on the VERY long walls where speed is the biggest concern...Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high....HTH... Mine is 9' 6", so 54 inch wouldn't be worth the trouble. I'm surprised I never see anyone here mention using adhesive when putting up drywall? It was pretty much standard practice on the jobs I've seen done and helped with. I think glue would more than make up for any weakness due to running vertically. As far as crooked studs, I'm doing this myself and at the moment my time isn't worth much so sistering a 2x4 to a warped stud isn't going to slow me down much. |
#26
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 25, 11:21*am, Tony wrote:
Harry K wrote: On Feb 24, 8:48 am, Tony wrote: Harry K wrote: On Feb 23, 3:36 am, "Joe" wrote: "Steve Barker" wrote in message ... Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout. His ceilings are going to be 9'. *what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls? thanks steve 54" wide sheets hung horizontally. Yep, I wondered if anyone would point out that such are available. May need special order though. Hanging sheets vertically is a tapers nightmare. *I learned that the first time I did my own. I've been close to asking a similar question. *my garage ceiling is about 9' 6" and was gong to ask about 10' drywall cut down and hung vertically. *I would think the taping would be a breeze with all beveled seams instead of the butt joints? *What am I missing?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - 1. *Footage: *Running horizontal results in about 1/3 less footage of seams. 2. *Door/windows: *It is a rare 12' wall *that does not have an opening of some sort in it. *Planning puts all, or almost all, butt joints above/below the openings 3. *Taping a butt joint, even one that has one tapered and one cut edge, is not a big deal. *Just do not use the mesh type tape on a flat joint. *Very hard to cover without having a buildup. 4. *Crawling up/down ladders or stools while trying to do a smooth job is not fun. Learned that the hard way on my first job. *You would have to hold a gun to my head before I would run vertical again. Harry K About the doors and windows, I thought putting a joint at either corner was a very big no, no. *It cracks too easy. *Put the whole sheet across the window, with adhesive also, and cut it after it's up. *That's how I was shown to do it... while my mother kept saying the guy is wasting so much drywall and wanting to use all the scraps and have a million seams. I understand about the going up and down the ladder, something I never thought about until I heard it here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I put any joints in the middle, not the corners. Harry K |
#27
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 25, 9:22*am, HerHusband wrote:
2. *Door/windows: *It is a rare 12' wall *that does not have an opening of some sort in it. *Planning puts all, or almost all, butt joints above/below the openings No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an unavoidable "bulge" in the wall. *While this may or may not be visible to the eye, it would make the trim installation more difficult if placed over openings like that. Anthony Odd, I have a butt join over every window/door I have and had no trouble with trim. If you have a bulge big enough to cause trouble, you ain't a good taper. I for sure ain't much of a taper and I don't have a problem. Harry K |
#28
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 25, 9:22*am, HerHusband wrote:
2. *Door/windows: *It is a rare 12' wall *that does not have an opening of some sort in it. *Planning puts all, or almost all, butt joints above/below the openings No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an unavoidable "bulge" in the wall. *While this may or may not be visible to the eye, it would make the trim installation more difficult if placed over openings like that. Anthony Oops, forgot to add. Put no joint at the corners of the opening, they go in the middle of the space. Best of course is a sheet going right across the space but then you wind up with an extra 8' or 9' butt joint. Harry K |
#29
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Drywall 9' walls
HerHusband wrote:
2. Door/windows: It is a rare 12' wall that does not have an opening of some sort in it. Planning puts all, or almost all, butt joints above/below the openings No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an unavoidable "bulge" in the wall. While this may or may not be visible to the eye, it would make the trim installation more difficult if placed over openings like that. Anthony I call BS on this one. At most, the thickness of the joint is going to be 1/8" and feathered out 10+ inches on each side of it, it becomes a nothing. |
#30
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Drywall 9' walls
Odd, I have a butt join over every window/door I have
and had no trouble with trim. OK, I just try to avoid butt joints, so I'll take your word for it. I think the point is there's nothing set in stone that drywall HAS to be hung horizontally or vertically. I've done it both ways, and still prefer vertical hanging for most installations. If horizontal works better for you, by all means go with that. The pro's game is speed and efficiency. They wouldn't think twice about throwing up a 16' sheet horizontally to span a room and avoid an extra joint. They have the manpower, equipment, and probably a few tricks up their sleeve from years of experience. The average DIY'er probably works alone, or with the help of one other person (i.e. The wife). It's easier to use smaller sheets and have a few extra joints to tape, than it is to wrestle a large sheet in place just to avoid a joint. Home Centers are open after work, which means that's the typical supply source for most DIY projects. And, most folks don't have a way to transport sheets larger than 4x8 anyway. If the job is big enough, I'll have the sheetrock delivered, but that usually doesn't make sense for a small room that only needs a few sheets. Delivery is also not an option if there's no place to store the sheets, like my in-laws tiny cluttered house. I've done a lot of drywall projects, but I'm still far from an expert. I just know what works for me. Anthony |
#31
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 26, 2:52*am, Steve Barker wrote:
HerHusband wrote: 2. *Door/windows: *It is a rare 12' wall *that does not have an opening of some sort in it. *Planning puts all, or almost all, butt joints above/below the openings No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an unavoidable "bulge" in the wall. *While this may or may not be visible to the eye, it would make the trim installation more difficult if placed over openings like that. Anthony I call BS on this one. *At most, the thickness of the joint is going to be 1/8" and feathered out 10+ inches on each side of it, it becomes a nothing. Plus the thickness of the tape and mud over the butt joint is not even 1/8". "Bulges" come from uneven / mismatched joints or crappy mud jobs. Keep your mud build up over the joint only as thick as necessary to hide the tape and use a decent sized knife to feather the mud out. "less is more" cheers Bob |
#32
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Drywall 9' walls
"HerHusband" wrote in message
... Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to each method, but I still prefer vertical installations. We did our garage and house vertically, and five years later there are no cracks and no hint of a seam anywhere in the house. We had 14'x24' walls in our kitchen/dining area that were easily handled by installing 14' sheets vertically. No butt joints anywhere. Not to mention, it would have been difficult to hoist full sheets 8' up to the top of the wall and hold them there while we fastened them. Maybe no big deal for a drywall crew, but a deal breaker for a couple of DIY'ers working alone. The 24' and 28' walls in our garage also worked out better installing vertically than horizontally, again, no butt joints. Of course, we did the framing ourselves too, and were very careful about the placement of the studs. When the framing is inconsistent, I agree a vertical installation can be a pain. We recently remodeled some rooms at my inlaws and the old framing was spaced anywhere from 14" to 18". So, we did have to install a fair amount of blocking. One of the rooms was nearly 16' long, and it would have been impossible to get a sheet that long into the room. Eight foot sheets worked out great, and again, no butt joints anywhere (except the ceiling). You wouldn't hang plywood vertically When we built our house, code REQUIRED all edges of the plywood to be backed by framing and nailed every 6" around the perimeter. Short of installing blocking along the entire wall, hanging the plywood vertically was the only way to meet code and build proper sheer walls. If it works for plywood, it works for drywall. Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high. "Correct" means different things to different people. The average DIY job doesn't have the volume necessary to justify the special order and/or delivery costs for 54" sheets. Even if I could find 54" sheets at a local supplier, I'd have a hard time hauling them home. On the other hand, 4x8 sheets are available at any home center, are easy to haul home in a small trailer or the back of a truck, and are light enough for one person to carry if needed. If I had a project large enough to warrant a delivery that may not be an issue, but for small one room projects it's usually not worth the cost. Just something to consider. Anthony It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free but hey you can do it however you want....I'm sure it looks good to you and that's all that matters...To a pro more jonts mean more things can go wrong and time is MONEY...LOL...I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem... |
#33
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 27, 6:53*pm, "benick" wrote:
"HerHusband" wrote in message ... Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to each method, but I still prefer vertical installations. *We did our garage and house vertically, and five years later there are no cracks and no hint of a seam anywhere in the house. We had 14'x24' walls in our kitchen/dining area that were easily handled by installing 14' sheets vertically. No butt joints anywhere. Not to mention, it would have been difficult to hoist full sheets 8' up to the top of the wall and hold them there while we fastened them. Maybe no big deal for a drywall crew, but a deal breaker for a couple of DIY'ers working alone. The 24' and 28' walls in our garage also worked out better installing vertically than horizontally, again, no butt joints. Of course, we did the framing ourselves too, and were very careful about the placement of the studs. When the framing is inconsistent, I agree a vertical installation can be a pain. *We recently remodeled some rooms at my inlaws and the old framing was spaced anywhere from 14" to 18". So, we did have to install a fair amount of blocking. One of the rooms was nearly 16' long, and it would have been impossible to get a sheet that long into the room. Eight foot sheets worked out great, and again, no butt joints anywhere (except the ceiling). You wouldn't hang plywood vertically When we built our house, code REQUIRED all edges of the plywood to be backed by framing and nailed every 6" around the perimeter. Short of installing blocking along the entire wall, hanging the plywood vertically was the only way to meet code and build proper sheer walls. If it works for plywood, it works for drywall. Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high. "Correct" means different things to different people. The average DIY job doesn't have the volume necessary to justify the special order and/or delivery costs for 54" sheets. *Even if I could find 54" sheets at a local supplier, I'd have a hard time hauling them home. On the other hand, 4x8 sheets are available at any home center, are easy to haul home in a small trailer or the back of a truck, and are light enough for one person to carry if needed. If I had a project large enough to warrant a delivery that may not be an issue, but for small one room projects it's usually not worth the cost. Just something to consider. Anthony It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free but hey you can do it however you want....I'm sure it looks good to you and that's all that matters...To a pro more jonts mean more things can go wrong and time is MONEY...LOL...I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I will add BS to the claim that code required blocking behind every seam also. Been observing construction progress on all kinds of buildings for 50 years and have never seen it done. Harry K |
#34
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 27, 11:53*pm, "benick" wrote:
"HerHusband" wrote in message ... Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to each method, but I still prefer vertical installations. *We did our garage and house vertically, and five years later there are no cracks and no hint of a seam anywhere in the house. We had 14'x24' walls in our kitchen/dining area that were easily handled by installing 14' sheets vertically. No butt joints anywhere. Not to mention, it would have been difficult to hoist full sheets 8' up to the top of the wall and hold them there while we fastened them. Maybe no big deal for a drywall crew, but a deal breaker for a couple of DIY'ers working alone. The 24' and 28' walls in our garage also worked out better installing vertically than horizontally, again, no butt joints. Of course, we did the framing ourselves too, and were very careful about the placement of the studs. When the framing is inconsistent, I agree a vertical installation can be a pain. *We recently remodeled some rooms at my inlaws and the old framing was spaced anywhere from 14" to 18". So, we did have to install a fair amount of blocking. One of the rooms was nearly 16' long, and it would have been impossible to get a sheet that long into the room. Eight foot sheets worked out great, and again, no butt joints anywhere (except the ceiling). You wouldn't hang plywood vertically When we built our house, code REQUIRED all edges of the plywood to be backed by framing and nailed every 6" around the perimeter. Short of installing blocking along the entire wall, hanging the plywood vertically was the only way to meet code and build proper sheer walls. If it works for plywood, it works for drywall. Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high. "Correct" means different things to different people. The average DIY job doesn't have the volume necessary to justify the special order and/or delivery costs for 54" sheets. *Even if I could find 54" sheets at a local supplier, I'd have a hard time hauling them home. On the other hand, 4x8 sheets are available at any home center, are easy to haul home in a small trailer or the back of a truck, and are light enough for one person to carry if needed. If I had a project large enough to warrant a delivery that may not be an issue, but for small one room projects it's usually not worth the cost. Just something to consider. Anthony It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free but hey you can do it however you want....I'm sure it looks good to you and that's all that matters...To a pro more jonts mean more things can go wrong and time is MONEY...LOL...I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem...- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Gems of knowledge ................... ?????? Plywood is often placed horizontally for greater lateral strength and rigidity? Never heard of NOT having blocking behind ALL joints/seams? Potential for cracking in frame construction? Professionals place the upper sheets of drywall horizontally and at top, of wall, to get better fit at ceiling and to permit any cutting of bottom edge of lower sheet not meeting the floor etc. to be covered by base moulding? Also ensures two tapered edges in 'middle' of wall? Haven't done any sheetrock myself (as a complete amateur) for nearly 40 years. But both our 'stick-built' houses plaster-board sheeted with three eighths, are fine and still standing after many storms! BTW. Nowadays here, it's half inch or even five eighths (Fire regs.) in some cases! |
#35
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Drywall 9' walls
It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free
Around here anyway, delivery is usually only free if you purchase more than certain quantity. That was five years ago and I don't recall the cutoff point, but it's usually not worth the delivery cost for a few sheets. This is practically standard policy at any lumber yard or home center in our area. If you don't order enough to justify delivery, they charge you a fee. Think about it, why would anyone waive a $50 delivery charge if you're only buying $50 of sheetrock? Of course, delivery is a wise choice if you're doing a larger project. I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem... Maybe it's a regional thing. Around here (WA state) we have to use shear wall construction for wind and seismic loads. That means all edges of the sheathing must be supported by framing, nailed every 6" around the perimeter, 12" in the interior, and securely fastened to the foundation. We had to install special hold downs in the corners that extended from deep within the foundation wall, up through the floor framing, and bolted to posts in the wall. In some areas (like California), the connections have to extend all the way to the roof. While this can be done with sheathing run horizontally, it would require blocking at the horizontal seams to maintain shear strength at the seam. It's cheaper and easier to run the sheets vertically, which also means less framing in the wall for easier plumbing, wiring, insulation, etc. Also, if you use a combination sheathing/siding (like T-111 Plywood), vertical is about the only good way to install it. Here are a few references showing shear wall construction, all of which install the plywood vertically: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_wall http://www.abag.ca.gov/bayarea/eqmap...PT07-Ch-3A.PDF http://jobsite.buildiq.com/media/95c...-9b26158b690c- strongtie%20steel%20framed%20shear%20walls.pdf http://timber.ce.wsu.edu/Supplements...all/Ratios.htm Also, while this may not apply to builders with larger crews, we would frame our walls in 8' panels on the subfloor, so the two of us could easily tilt the walls up ourselves. It was a weight issue, more than a design factor. Installing the two sheets vertically eliminated the need for blocking, and by using sheets with shiplapped edges each wall section would be overlapped by the previous section when we tilted it in place. Anthony |
#36
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Drywall 9' walls
On Feb 27, 6:53*pm, "benick" wrote:
"HerHusband" wrote in message ... Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to each method, but I still prefer vertical installations. *We did our garage and house vertically, and five years later there are no cracks and no hint of a seam anywhere in the house. We had 14'x24' walls in our kitchen/dining area that were easily handled by installing 14' sheets vertically. No butt joints anywhere. Not to mention, it would have been difficult to hoist full sheets 8' up to the top of the wall and hold them there while we fastened them. Maybe no big deal for a drywall crew, but a deal breaker for a couple of DIY'ers working alone. The 24' and 28' walls in our garage also worked out better installing vertically than horizontally, again, no butt joints. Of course, we did the framing ourselves too, and were very careful about the placement of the studs. When the framing is inconsistent, I agree a vertical installation can be a pain. *We recently remodeled some rooms at my inlaws and the old framing was spaced anywhere from 14" to 18". So, we did have to install a fair amount of blocking. One of the rooms was nearly 16' long, and it would have been impossible to get a sheet that long into the room. Eight foot sheets worked out great, and again, no butt joints anywhere (except the ceiling). You wouldn't hang plywood vertically When we built our house, code REQUIRED all edges of the plywood to be backed by framing and nailed every 6" around the perimeter. Short of installing blocking along the entire wall, hanging the plywood vertically was the only way to meet code and build proper sheer walls. If it works for plywood, it works for drywall. Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high. "Correct" means different things to different people. The average DIY job doesn't have the volume necessary to justify the special order and/or delivery costs for 54" sheets. *Even if I could find 54" sheets at a local supplier, I'd have a hard time hauling them home. On the other hand, 4x8 sheets are available at any home center, are easy to haul home in a small trailer or the back of a truck, and are light enough for one person to carry if needed. If I had a project large enough to warrant a delivery that may not be an issue, but for small one room projects it's usually not worth the cost. Just something to consider. Anthony It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free but hey you can do it however you want....I'm sure it looks good to you and that's all that matters...To a pro more jonts mean more things can go wrong and time is MONEY...LOL...I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem... I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem (sic) Then I assume you've never been to SoCal construction site. In earthquake country, construction of plywood shear walls is typically done with sheets vertically placed. All edges of the sheet must be nailed per the specified nailing schedule (like 6/12 or 4/12) and unless the framing is blocked (which is more more work), vertical sheets are the easy way to assure having a "receiving member" under all the edges. Harry K- Previous versions of the code used in SoCal allowed "drywall shear walls"....yeah, pretty dumb but buildings were designed & built that way. A blocked "drywall shear walls" often would provide sufficient shear capacity, such that, in multi story buildings the top floor(s) could be sheathed in drywall only.....thus eliminating the need for plywood. In previous codes, unblocked shear diaphragms were allowed but at design capacities lower than blocked diaphragms. I have not kept up with SoCal code changes wrt drywall vs plywood and blocked vs unblocked shear walls. I believe that the allowable design shear capacities of drywall shear walls were either lowered significantly or eliminated. But in any case, drywall shear walls appear to be a thing of the past. Unblocked plywood shear walls (if still allowed in SoCal) would have lower allowable design shear capacities so the standard industry practice (at least IIRC) is vertical plywood sheets cheers Bob |
#37
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Drywall 9' walls
DD_BobK wrote:
On Feb 27, 6:53 pm, "benick" wrote: "HerHusband" wrote in message ... Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to each method, but I still prefer vertical installations. We did our garage and house vertically, and five years later there are no cracks and no hint of a seam anywhere in the house. We had 14'x24' walls in our kitchen/dining area that were easily handled by installing 14' sheets vertically. No butt joints anywhere. Not to mention, it would have been difficult to hoist full sheets 8' up to the top of the wall and hold them there while we fastened them. Maybe no big deal for a drywall crew, but a deal breaker for a couple of DIY'ers working alone. The 24' and 28' walls in our garage also worked out better installing vertically than horizontally, again, no butt joints. Of course, we did the framing ourselves too, and were very careful about the placement of the studs. When the framing is inconsistent, I agree a vertical installation can be a pain. We recently remodeled some rooms at my inlaws and the old framing was spaced anywhere from 14" to 18". So, we did have to install a fair amount of blocking. One of the rooms was nearly 16' long, and it would have been impossible to get a sheet that long into the room. Eight foot sheets worked out great, and again, no butt joints anywhere (except the ceiling). You wouldn't hang plywood vertically When we built our house, code REQUIRED all edges of the plywood to be backed by framing and nailed every 6" around the perimeter. Short of installing blocking along the entire wall, hanging the plywood vertically was the only way to meet code and build proper sheer walls. If it works for plywood, it works for drywall. Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high. "Correct" means different things to different people. The average DIY job doesn't have the volume necessary to justify the special order and/or delivery costs for 54" sheets. Even if I could find 54" sheets at a local supplier, I'd have a hard time hauling them home. On the other hand, 4x8 sheets are available at any home center, are easy to haul home in a small trailer or the back of a truck, and are light enough for one person to carry if needed. If I had a project large enough to warrant a delivery that may not be an issue, but for small one room projects it's usually not worth the cost. Just something to consider. Anthony It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free but hey you can do it however you want....I'm sure it looks good to you and that's all that matters...To a pro more jonts mean more things can go wrong and time is MONEY...LOL...I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem... I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem (sic) Then I assume you've never been to SoCal construction site. In earthquake country, construction of plywood shear walls is typically done with sheets vertically placed. All edges of the sheet must be nailed per the specified nailing schedule (like 6/12 or 4/12) and unless the framing is blocked (which is more more work), vertical sheets are the easy way to assure having a "receiving member" under all the edges. Harry K- Previous versions of the code used in SoCal allowed "drywall shear walls"....yeah, pretty dumb but buildings were designed & built that way. A blocked "drywall shear walls" often would provide sufficient shear capacity, such that, in multi story buildings the top floor(s) could be sheathed in drywall only.....thus eliminating the need for plywood. In previous codes, unblocked shear diaphragms were allowed but at design capacities lower than blocked diaphragms. I have not kept up with SoCal code changes wrt drywall vs plywood and blocked vs unblocked shear walls. I believe that the allowable design shear capacities of drywall shear walls were either lowered significantly or eliminated. But in any case, drywall shear walls appear to be a thing of the past. Unblocked plywood shear walls (if still allowed in SoCal) would have lower allowable design shear capacities so the standard industry practice (at least IIRC) is vertical plywood sheets cheers Bob In central IN, back in the stone age, the house corners were always vertical plywood sheet, and the field filled with celotex whatever way was the most painless to lay out. They would have the real carpenters place the sheets and pin them, and the kids/gofers like me would get to go add the rest of the nails. A real carpenter would spot-check until they trusted you to hit the studs and space the nails correctly. (This was all pre-nailgun era, mind you. Hand-hammering a few thousand nails while trying to stay lined up on invisible framing got old real fast.) -- aem sends... |
#38
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Drywall 9' walls
On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 21:53:16 -0500, "benick"
wrote: "HerHusband" wrote in message . .. Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to each method, but I still prefer vertical installations. We did our garage and house vertically, and five years later there are no cracks and no hint of a seam anywhere in the house. We had 14'x24' walls in our kitchen/dining area that were easily handled by installing 14' sheets vertically. No butt joints anywhere. Not to mention, it would have been difficult to hoist full sheets 8' up to the top of the wall and hold them there while we fastened them. Maybe no big deal for a drywall crew, but a deal breaker for a couple of DIY'ers working alone. The 24' and 28' walls in our garage also worked out better installing vertically than horizontally, again, no butt joints. Of course, we did the framing ourselves too, and were very careful about the placement of the studs. When the framing is inconsistent, I agree a vertical installation can be a pain. We recently remodeled some rooms at my inlaws and the old framing was spaced anywhere from 14" to 18". So, we did have to install a fair amount of blocking. One of the rooms was nearly 16' long, and it would have been impossible to get a sheet that long into the room. Eight foot sheets worked out great, and again, no butt joints anywhere (except the ceiling). You wouldn't hang plywood vertically When we built our house, code REQUIRED all edges of the plywood to be backed by framing and nailed every 6" around the perimeter. Short of installing blocking along the entire wall, hanging the plywood vertically was the only way to meet code and build proper sheer walls. If it works for plywood, it works for drywall. Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high. "Correct" means different things to different people. The average DIY job doesn't have the volume necessary to justify the special order and/or delivery costs for 54" sheets. Even if I could find 54" sheets at a local supplier, I'd have a hard time hauling them home. On the other hand, 4x8 sheets are available at any home center, are easy to haul home in a small trailer or the back of a truck, and are light enough for one person to carry if needed. If I had a project large enough to warrant a delivery that may not be an issue, but for small one room projects it's usually not worth the cost. Just something to consider. Anthony It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free but hey you can do it however you want....I'm sure it looks good to you and that's all that matters...To a pro more jonts mean more things can go wrong and time is MONEY...LOL...I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem... You hang T-111 horizontally? THAT is bull****. |
#39
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Drywall 9' walls
krw wrote:
On Sat, 27 Feb 2010 21:53:16 -0500, wrote: wrote in message ... Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks like ****. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to each method, but I still prefer vertical installations. We did our garage and house vertically, and five years later there are no cracks and no hint of a seam anywhere in the house. We had 14'x24' walls in our kitchen/dining area that were easily handled by installing 14' sheets vertically. No butt joints anywhere. Not to mention, it would have been difficult to hoist full sheets 8' up to the top of the wall and hold them there while we fastened them. Maybe no big deal for a drywall crew, but a deal breaker for a couple of DIY'ers working alone. The 24' and 28' walls in our garage also worked out better installing vertically than horizontally, again, no butt joints. Of course, we did the framing ourselves too, and were very careful about the placement of the studs. When the framing is inconsistent, I agree a vertical installation can be a pain. We recently remodeled some rooms at my inlaws and the old framing was spaced anywhere from 14" to 18". So, we did have to install a fair amount of blocking. One of the rooms was nearly 16' long, and it would have been impossible to get a sheet that long into the room. Eight foot sheets worked out great, and again, no butt joints anywhere (except the ceiling). You wouldn't hang plywood vertically When we built our house, code REQUIRED all edges of the plywood to be backed by framing and nailed every 6" around the perimeter. Short of installing blocking along the entire wall, hanging the plywood vertically was the only way to meet code and build proper sheer walls. If it works for plywood, it works for drywall. Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high. "Correct" means different things to different people. The average DIY job doesn't have the volume necessary to justify the special order and/or delivery costs for 54" sheets. Even if I could find 54" sheets at a local supplier, I'd have a hard time hauling them home. On the other hand, 4x8 sheets are available at any home center, are easy to haul home in a small trailer or the back of a truck, and are light enough for one person to carry if needed. If I had a project large enough to warrant a delivery that may not be an issue, but for small one room projects it's usually not worth the cost. Just something to consider. Anthony It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free but hey you can do it however you want....I'm sure it looks good to you and that's all that matters...To a pro more jonts mean more things can go wrong and time is MONEY...LOL...I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being on jobsites so I have to say bull**** to that little jem... You hang T-111 horizontally? THAT is bull****. Hmmm, ??????????????? |
#40
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Drywall 9' walls
replying to Steve Barker, Iggy wrote:
THANK YOU WILLSHAK! The first answer got it right, Steve I hope Vertical Installation's what you did. There's NO benefit nor advantage to the Horizontal Installation. It's the dumbest practice that ruins new everything right from the start and provides poor fire protection. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ls-426583-.htm |
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