The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

mcp6453 wrote:
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?


Sharp,strong sheetrock knife and a long straightedge?

In article , mcp6453 wrote:
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

With a utility knife. It's probably only 1/2" thick, not 5/8".

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade.

Sheetrock is far too soft to do any damage to a saw blade. You'll make one
helluva mess, though.

A MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

Cut it with a drywall saw (hand saw) flush to the near side of each stud. To
reattach the panel, attach a 2x4 cleat to the studs on each side, and screw
the panel to the cleats.

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom
vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It
seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs
on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut
a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or
so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the
blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal
solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do
have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

Use the rotoZip or drywall saw to cut flush to the inside edge of the studs.

Cut two straight scabs at lest 2" longer than the height of the opening and
then attach them to the studs while pulling them flush to the backside of
the drywall.. That is why you make them 2" taller than the opening.

Attach the drywall to the scabs. I use 1x11/2 or 2x2 cabs depending on what
I have handy when I need one.

You can buy a cheap cutout tool at Harborfreight for about $20.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com

Colbyt wrote:
"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom
vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It
seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs
on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut
a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or
so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the
blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal
solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do
have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

Use the rotoZip or drywall saw to cut flush to the inside edge of the studs.

Cut two straight scabs at lest 2" longer than the height of the opening and
then attach them to the studs while pulling them flush to the backside of
the drywall.. That is why you make them 2" taller than the opening.

Attach the drywall to the scabs. I use 1x11/2 or 2x2 cabs depending on what
I have handy when I need one.

You can buy a cheap cutout tool at Harborfreight for about $20.



or just buy a new piece of drywall and cut the old flush with the stud
with a keyhole saw and then after the piece is out cut it back 3/4" or
so with a utility knife.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 1/16/2010 10:05 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
In article , mcp6453 wrote:
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

With a utility knife. It's probably only 1/2" thick, not 5/8".

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade.

Sheetrock is far too soft to do any damage to a saw blade. You'll make one
helluva mess, though.

A MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

Cut it with a drywall saw (hand saw) flush to the near side of each stud. To
reattach the panel, attach a 2x4 cleat to the studs on each side, and screw
the panel to the cleats.

Doesn't drywall rapidly dull drill bits and saw blades?

I thought about buying a Rotozip since I'm going to be learning to do some
drywall work for a future project. However, the reviews on it at the new Lowes
(horribly slow) website are bad. Can I buy a Rotozip drywall bit and use it in
my battery Dremel for very small jobs, like outlets? I thought I understood that
the drywall dust destroys power tool motors. If I'm wrong, that's good news.

On Jan 16, 8:56*am, mcp6453 wrote:
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

I've done this for years with a jig saw. Simple as can be, just bring
the blade to its lowest point of travel (maximum cutting depth) and
mark off the cutting depth you want from the platen, then remove the
blade and break off the unwanted portion and grind the back of the
blade to a profile similar to a new blade. Reinsert blade and proceed
to cut drywall, plywood, whatever, to exact depths. When blade is
dull, save it for a pattern for another one, and mark it with a
Sharpie for the depth it cuts. For decent low priced jigsaws, check
out Harbor Freight, maybe eBay.
If your jigsaw has a dust blower you can follow a line quite well and
the cut out will fit back precisely in the hole anyway, so nearly
invisible repairs are possible.

Joe

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
On 1/16/2010 10:05 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
In article , mcp6453
wrote:
Can I buy a Rotozip drywall bit and use it in
my battery Dremel for very small jobs, like outlets? I thought I
understood that
the drywall dust destroys power tool motors. If I'm wrong, that's good
news.

Yes you can. Most Dremels do not ship with the base plate which makes the
cuts straighter and cleaner but it will work using your highest speed.

In article , mcp6453 wrote:

Doesn't drywall rapidly dull drill bits and saw blades?

Didn't I just say that it doesn't?

To answer your question directly: NO. Plaster does; maybe that's what you're
thinking of. But drywall is just pressed powdered gypsum. It's nowhere nearly
as hard as a steel saw blade.

I thought about buying a Rotozip since I'm going to be learning to do some
drywall work for a future project. However, the reviews on it at the new Lowes
(horribly slow) website are bad. Can I buy a Rotozip drywall bit and use it in
my battery Dremel for very small jobs, like outlets?

Dunno. Depends on whether it fits, and what the max speed on the Rotozip bit
is -- the Dremel runs somewhere around 13000 rpm, I think. Not sure if Rotozip
bits are OK to run that fast. You could Google it.

I thought I understood that
the drywall dust destroys power tool motors. If I'm wrong, that's good news.

Again, you appear to be thinking of plaster. Drywall is sometimes referred to
as "plasterboard" but it's not at all the same thing. Plaster is far harder
and more abrasive than drywall, and it *does* ruin motor bearings, drill bits,
and saw blades, and should be cut only with carbide-tipped tools (or tools
you're willing to throw away).

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , mcp6453
wrote:

Doesn't drywall rapidly dull drill bits and saw blades?

Didn't I just say that it doesn't?

To answer your question directly: NO. Plaster does; maybe that's what
you're
thinking of. But drywall is just pressed powdered gypsum. It's
nowhere nearly
as hard as a steel saw blade.

Numerous things can be called "plaster"...lime plaster, cement plaster,
plaster of Paris. The first two have sand; the last - what most people mean
by "plaster" does not normally...it is the same mineral as that in drywall;
namely, gypsum. As you said, it is quite soft.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I like to make the cut in the center of the stud bay(s) and not
struggle with that cut down the center of the stud. Much easier
cutting, much faster with almost any tool. When it is repair
time, screw a scrap metal stud or 1x along the cut drywall edges
and screw in the replacement piece. You can even go the next
level with a butt board type install that pulls the butt joint
down where it finishes much like a taper joint. Some Level 5
drywallers are going to this system on new work.

http://www.trim-tex.com/submittal/BU...al%20sheet.pdf




--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my
bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the
sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x
4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a
no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just
the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably
destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The
ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either.
While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall
like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

In article , "dadiOH" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , mcp6453
wrote:

Doesn't drywall rapidly dull drill bits and saw blades?

Didn't I just say that it doesn't?

To answer your question directly: NO. Plaster does; maybe that's what you're
thinking of. But drywall is just pressed powdered gypsum. It's nowhere nearly
as hard as a steel saw blade.

Numerous things can be called "plaster"...lime plaster, cement plaster,
plaster of Paris. The first two have sand; the last - what most people mean
by "plaster" does not normally

That is *not* what's meant by "plaster" in the context of making a lath
and plaster wall. Plaster *ornaments*, yes, but walls, no. Walls are normally
lime plaster.

...it is the same mineral as that in drywall;
namely, gypsum. As you said, it is quite soft.

True, but irrelevant. Nobody makes walls out of plaster of Paris.

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 09:56:53 -0500, mcp6453 wrote:

The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=67256

mcp6453 wrote:
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?
Well, I'm no pro, but I'll jump in anyway-

No good way if you want to reuse the cut-out section for a patch. I
usually scrounge a hunk of rock to patch with, then cut a hole in the
center of the area to have something to grab. Use a straightedge and a
sharp utility knife or carpet knife to score away at your edge lines
very carefully. Idea is to not crumble the cut edge of the drywall NOT
being removed, so you can get a clean joint. Take your time and make
lots of passes, changing blades as needed. At a certain point, you will
be able to grip to open side and snap it off.

Alternative method for impatient people like me- cut the drywall flush
with the studs, using a drywall hand saw. (power saws tend to cause nail
pops.) Screw 2x3 cleats to the exposed side of the stud, and screw your
patch to those.

aem sends...

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 09:56:53 -0500, mcp6453 wrote:

The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

I'm not a professional, but I've done this with a normal utility knife
-- just start scoring deeper and deeper until you get through the
depth of the drywall. If I had dozens of these to cut, I'd get a
rotozip, but one or two will only take 5 minutes to do by hand.

Josh

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 09:56:53 -0500, mcp6453 wrote:

The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?


Forget about an electric tool unless you are willing to deal with a
big mess. Use a stud finder to locate the edges of the studs and
mark these with a pencil. Use a utility knife with a new blade to cut
between the lines. This will take more time than an electric tool,
but you'll get a narrower gap with the utility knife and perhaps a
faster repair time.

"Josh" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 09:56:53 -0500, mcp6453 wrote:

The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom
vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It
seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs
on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut
a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or
so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the
blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal
solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do
have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

I'm not a professional, but I've done this with a normal utility knife
-- just start scoring deeper and deeper until you get through the
depth of the drywall. If I had dozens of these to cut, I'd get a
rotozip, but one or two will only take 5 minutes to do by hand.

Josh



With JUST one I would just draw it out with a level and a pencil and cut it
with a utility knife with a NEW blade ....Just keep scoring it till it pops
thru.....Use scabs on the studs or a piece of strapping screwed to the back
of the sheetrock on the wall to put it back...If you do screw a piece of
strapping to the back of the sheetrock be carefull the screws pop through
the strapping or piece of 1X and bite you if your not paying
attention...BTDT.......

On Jan 16, 10:32*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , mcp6453 wrote:
Doesn't drywall rapidly dull drill bits and saw blades?

Didn't I just say that it doesn't?

To answer your question directly: NO. Plaster does; maybe that's what you're
thinking of. But drywall is just pressed powdered gypsum. It's nowhere nearly
as hard as a steel saw blade.



I thought about buying a Rotozip since I'm going to be learning to do some
drywall work for a future project. However, the reviews on it at the new Lowes
(horribly slow) website are bad. Can I buy a Rotozip drywall bit and use it in
my battery Dremel for very small jobs, like outlets?

Dunno. Depends on whether it fits, and what the max speed on the Rotozip bit
is -- the Dremel runs somewhere around 13000 rpm, I think. Not sure if Rotozip
bits are OK to run that fast. You could Google it.

I thought I understood that
the drywall dust destroys power tool motors. If I'm wrong, that's good news.

Again, you appear to be thinking of plaster. Drywall is sometimes referred to
as "plasterboard" but it's not at all the same thing. Plaster is far harder
and more abrasive than drywall, and it *does* ruin motor bearings, drill bits,
and saw blades, and should be cut only with carbide-tipped tools (or tools
you're willing to throw away).

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on. The dust will also be very hard
on the motor.
I have ruined one vacuum cleaning up after a drywall job.

Harry K

To the op-- a sheetrock knife works just fine. Take several shallow
cuts, don't try to do the entire 1/2" or 5/8" at once.

Harry K wrote:

-snip-

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on. The dust will also be very hard
on the motor.
I have ruined one vacuum cleaning up after a drywall job.

I'm no stickler for cleanliness and have never noticed gypsum dust
taking any toll on tools. Especially the vacuum! If your vac
died after a sheetrock job there are a dozen things I'd suspect before
the presence of some gypsum dust.

Jim

In article , Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

mcp6453 wrote:
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A
MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in
my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a
router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

utility knife

On Jan 17, 6:40*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

Harry K

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , mcp6453 wrote:
The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to
run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems
that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each
side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a
hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of
sheetrock that is against a stud?

With a utility knife. It's probably only 1/2" thick, not 5/8".
A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade.

Sheetrock is far too soft to do any damage to a saw blade. You'll make one
helluva mess, though.

Yes blades are fine but either the sheetrock dust or the spackle dust
will tear up the bearings on lot's of tools. I think it's the spackle dust.

On Jan 17, 10:00*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 17, 6:40*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. *They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. *Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

That has more to do with the steel used in the drywall tools than the
gypsum dust. Use stainless drywall tools and you won't have to worry
about drying them.

As far as the utility knife blades with gypsum dust, mine always have
some gyp dust on them and I've never noticed accelerated rusting. Are
you in a particularly humid environment? When I lived in New Orleans
everything rusted. _New_ cans of paint would have rust spots on the
lid.

R

RicodJour wrote:

On Jan 17, 10:00*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 17, 6:40*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. *They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. *Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.


-snip-
Are you in a particularly humid environment?
-snip-

His tools are *when he washes them.*

Jim

On Jan 17, 4:23*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 17, 10:00*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 17, 6:40*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article *Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. *They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. *Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

-snip- *Are you in a particularly humid environment? *

-snip-

His tools are *when he washes them.* * *

I was asking because of the utility knife blades - you snipped that
part out.

R

On Jan 17, 9:50*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 17, 10:00*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 17, 6:40*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article *Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. *They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. *Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

That has more to do with the steel used in the drywall tools than the
gypsum dust. *Use stainless drywall tools and you won't have to worry
about drying them.

As far as the utility knife blades with gypsum dust, mine always have
some gyp dust on them and I've never noticed accelerated rusting. *Are
you in a particularly humid environment? *When I lived in New Orleans
everything rusted. *_New_ cans of paint would have rust spots on the
lid.

R

Climate here (E Washington) is semi-arid. 16" average/yr.

I think I will test my old shredder. Last time I used it was to shred
sheetrock scraps on a bad patch of pasture land hopping the 'rock'
would sweeten up the soil abit. Couldn't see the machine after the
first chunk . Wonder if it will even turn over although I have it a
real washdown with a hose and left it parked in the sun for two days.

Harry K

On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 19:13:36 -0800 (PST), RicodJour
wrote:

On Jan 17, 4:23*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 17, 10:00*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 17, 6:40*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article *Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. *They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. *Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

-snip- *Are you in a particularly humid environment? *

-snip-

His tools are *when he washes them.* * *

I was asking because of the utility knife blades - you snipped that
part out.


Because it doesn't matter if he is living in the Gobi desert or using
steel wool for a tool. Once he washes them he adds moisture & gets
rusty tools. . . and blames gypsum, instead of soapy water.

Jim

In article , Harry K wrote:
On Jan 17, 6:40=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article .=
com, Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

Stop storing your tools at the bottom of your swimming pool, and that won't
happen. g

Seriously, though -- you ought to look at getting a dehumidifier for wherever
it is that you keep your tools. I *don't* have a problem with my tools
rusting, whether I've used them on drywall or not. It's an environment issue,
not a drywall issue. And I repeat: Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet. It
*can't*: rust is _by definition_ *hydrated* iron oxide. Iron oxide is black,
not red. It doesn't -- can't -- become rust without the presence of water.

On Jan 18, 4:01*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 19:13:36 -0800 (PST), RicodJour





wrote:
On Jan 17, 4:23*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 17, 10:00*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 17, 6:40*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article *Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. *They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. *Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

-snip- *Are you in a particularly humid environment? *

-snip-

His tools are *when he washes them.* * *

I was asking because of the utility knife blades - you snipped that
part out.

Because it doesn't matter if he is living in the Gobi desert or using
steel wool for a tool. *Once he washes them he adds moisture & gets
rusty tools. . . and blames gypsum, instead of soapy water.

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You must have missed DRYING.

Harry K

On Jan 18, 4:58*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Harry K wrote:

On Jan 17, 6:40=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article .=
com, Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. *They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. *Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

Stop storing your tools at the bottom of your swimming pool, and that won't
happen. g

Seriously, though -- you ought to look at getting a dehumidifier for wherever
it is that you keep your tools. I *don't* have a problem with my tools
rusting, whether I've used them on drywall or not. It's an environment issue,
not a drywall issue. And I repeat: Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet. It
*can't*: rust is _by definition_ *hydrated* iron oxide. Iron oxide is black,
not red. It doesn't -- can't -- become rust without the presence of water..

And did you not know that gypsum absorbs moisture?

Harry K

In article , Harry K wrote:
On Jan 18, 4:58=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article .=
com, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 17, 6:40=3DA0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
ps.=3D
com, Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it g=
ets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

Stop storing your tools at the bottom of your swimming pool, and that won't
happen. g

Seriously, though -- you ought to look at getting a dehumidifier for wherever
it is that you keep your tools. I *don't* have a problem with my tools
rusting, whether I've used them on drywall or not. It's an environment issue,
not a drywall issue. And I repeat: Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet. It
*can't*: rust is _by definition_ *hydrated* iron oxide. Iron oxide is black,
not red. It doesn't -- can't -- become rust without the presence of water.

And did you not know that gypsum absorbs moisture?

Not enough to rust the blades on *my* utility knives -- but I don't store my
tools in a humid area, either. In any event, it certainly isn't gypsum that's
causing rust on tools that you've _washed the gypsum off of_.

It's water.

Either you're not getting them as dry as you think you are, or you're storing
your tools in a humid place. Or maybe your cat pees in your toolbox.

Get a dehumidifier for your workshop or wherever it is you store your tools,
and you won't have a rust problem. And shut the door to keep the cat out.

On Jan 18, 7:01*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 19:13:36 -0800 (PST), RicodJour
wrote:
On Jan 17, 4:23*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 17, 10:00*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 17, 6:40*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article *Harry K wrote:

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the
hell out any steel/iron it gets on.

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.

Tell that to my drawer of drywall tools. *They get thoroughly washed
and dried after every use. *Try taking a look at a box cutter blade
that has been used on sheetrock and left laying around.

-snip- *Are you in a particularly humid environment? *

-snip-

His tools are *when he washes them.* * *

I was asking because of the utility knife blades - you snipped that
part out.

Because it doesn't matter if he is living in the Gobi desert or using
steel wool for a tool. *Once he washes them he adds moisture & gets
rusty tools. . . and blames gypsum, instead of soapy water.

You're selectively reading, Jim. Harry did not mention washing his
utility knife blade - he said he used it and left it laying around,
which is what everyone does.

So, unless you feel he's making stuff up, what would you attribute his
rusting knife blades to, if not excess humidity - rust gremlins?
That's why I asked about the humidity level in his area.

R

In article , RicodJour wrote:

So, unless you feel he's making stuff up, what would you attribute his
rusting knife blades to, if not excess humidity - rust gremlins?
That's why I asked about the humidity level in his area.

Really, the humidity level in his geographical area isn't anywhere nearly as
important as the humidity where he stores his tools -- if they're in a damp
basement, they're going to rust. Conversely, it's pretty humid in
Indianapolis, where I live, but I don't have a rust problem on my tools, which
I credit to the dehumidifier in the workshop.