Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

On Oct 29, 12:48*pm, Mikepier wrote:
*Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, *does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven *knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing *I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. *I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

sounds like a flame sensor or thermocouple is not working. Have you
at least managed to find a diagram or exploded drawing or parts list
for your stove?

nate

On Oct 29, 12:55*pm, N8N wrote:
On Oct 29, 12:48*pm, Mikepier wrote:





*Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, *does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven *knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing *I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. *I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

sounds like a flame sensor or thermocouple is not working. *Have you
at least managed to find a diagram or exploded drawing or parts list
for your stove?

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is a thermocouple in the oven, I can see it. Also I do have an
exploded parts list.
I just read the manual online, and it does say hold the knob in for
10-15 seconds. Which is fine as the oven stays lit.
What I don't understand is after it reaches a preset temp and the
flame goes out, how does it know to re-ignite? That's what I want to
know, the operation of the oven. Obviously it can't re-igite by itself
beacuse you need to push the knob in, right? Thats why I thought maybe
there's suppose to be a pilot light somewhere.

On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 10:10:53 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
wrote:

On Oct 29, 12:55*pm, N8N wrote:
On Oct 29, 12:48*pm, Mikepier wrote:





*Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, *does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven *knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing *I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. *I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

sounds like a flame sensor or thermocouple is not working. *Have you
at least managed to find a diagram or exploded drawing or parts list
for your stove?

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is a thermocouple in the oven, I can see it. Also I do have an
exploded parts list.
I just read the manual online, and it does say hold the knob in for
10-15 seconds. Which is fine as the oven stays lit.
What I don't understand is after it reaches a preset temp and the
flame goes out, how does it know to re-ignite? That's what I want to
know, the operation of the oven. Obviously it can't re-igite by itself
beacuse you need to push the knob in, right?

No, I think you're wrong.

When the thermocouple is cold, you have to hold in the knob until it
heats up enough to keep the gas on. What temp would that be? Well,
lower than any of the temps on the oven control. I think on my
electric oven the lowest temp I can set it for is maybe 200 degrees.
So maybe 190 degrees. But actually, 15 seconds isn't enough to get
that hot. I think it only has to get so hot that it couldn't be the
weather, so it can't go on without someone turning it on. Maybe in
some places it gets to be 120 or 130 in the summer, so anything above
140 might be what they use. Or 150, they have to allow leeway if the
part changes and opens at a lower than intended temp.

So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

**I just picked that out of the air.

Try setting the oven higher than you have been, like for 425. Just
becasue I'm curious. Surely after it reaches that temperature and goes
a little higher, and then turns off, it would turn on again at 410,
415, 420, and since it ran at the lower temp, 325, plainly the
thermocouple keeps the gas on at 325. How much more so at 410 plus!

So, and bear in mind I have an electric stove (my house has no gas),
it seems to me it's what ever controls the valve that is bad. Is the
thermocouple and valve one piece?

Thats why I thought maybe
there's suppose to be a pilot light somewhere.

The other possiblity is that the buzzer is bad. In this method, the
flame goes out and then later when it's time to restart the flame, a
buzzer goes off and you are supposed to hear the buzzer and come in
from the other room and hold the knob in for 15 seconds. So you need
a new buzzer to let you know every time you're supposed to do this.

On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 10:10:53 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
wrote:

On Oct 29, 12:55*pm, N8N wrote:
On Oct 29, 12:48*pm, Mikepier wrote:





*Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, *does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven *knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing *I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. *I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

sounds like a flame sensor or thermocouple is not working. *Have you
at least managed to find a diagram or exploded drawing or parts list
for your stove?

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is a thermocouple in the oven, I can see it. Also I do have an
exploded parts list.
I just read the manual online, and it does say hold the knob in for
10-15 seconds. Which is fine as the oven stays lit.
What I don't understand is after it reaches a preset temp and the
flame goes out, how does it know to re-ignite? That's what I want to
know, the operation of the oven. Obviously it can't re-igite by itself
beacuse you need to push the knob in, right?

No, I think you're wrong.

When the thermocouple is cold, you have to hold in the knob until it
heats up enough to keep the gas on. What temp would that be? Well,
lower than any of the temps on the oven control. I think on my
electric oven the lowest temp I can set it for is maybe 200 degrees.
So maybe 190 degrees. But actually, 15 seconds isn't enough to get
that hot. I think it only has to get so hot that it couldn't be the
weather, so it can't go on without someone turning it on. Maybe in
some places it gets to be 120 or 130 in the summer, so anything above
140 might be what they use. Or 150, they have to allow leeway if the
part changes and opens at a lower than intended temp.

So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

**I just picked that out of the air.

Try setting the oven higher than you have been, like for 425. Just
becasue I'm curious. Surely after it reaches that temperature and goes
a little higher, and then turns off, it would turn on again at 410,
415, 420, and since it ran at the lower temp, 325, plainly the
thermocouple keeps the gas on at 325. How much more so at 410 plus!

So, and bear in mind I have an electric stove (my house has no gas),
it seems to me it's what ever controls the valve that is bad. Is the
thermocouple and valve one piece?

Thats why I thought maybe
there's suppose to be a pilot light somewhere.

The other possiblity is that the buzzer is bad. In this method, the
flame goes out and then later when it's time to restart the flame, a
buzzer goes off and you are supposed to hear the buzzer and come in
from the other room and hold the knob in for 15 seconds. So you need
a new buzzer to let you know every time you're supposed to do this.

So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

That still does not explain how it re-ignites. Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.

Try setting the oven higher than you have been, like for 425. *Just
becasue I'm curious. Surely after it reaches that temperature and goes
a little higher, and then turns off, it would turn on again at 410,
415, 420, and since it ran at the lower temp, 325, plainly the
thermocouple keeps the gas on at 325. *How much more so at 410 plus!

So, and bear in mind I have an electric stove (my house has no gas),
it seems to me it's what ever controls the valve that is bad. *Is the
thermocouple and valve one piece?

No, I don't think so.

The other possiblity is that the buzzer is bad. *In this method, the
flame goes out and then later when it's time to restart the flame, a
buzzer goes off and you are supposed to hear the buzzer and come in
from the other room and hold the knob in for 15 seconds. * So you need
a new buzzer to let you know every time you're supposed to do this.-

I never heard or seen that kind of stove.

So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

That still does not explain how it re-ignites. Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.

Try setting the oven higher than you have been, like for 425. *Just
becasue I'm curious. Surely after it reaches that temperature and goes
a little higher, and then turns off, it would turn on again at 410,
415, 420, and since it ran at the lower temp, 325, plainly the
thermocouple keeps the gas on at 325. *How much more so at 410 plus!

So, and bear in mind I have an electric stove (my house has no gas),
it seems to me it's what ever controls the valve that is bad. *Is the
thermocouple and valve one piece?

No, I don't think so.

The other possiblity is that the buzzer is bad. *In this method, the
flame goes out and then later when it's time to restart the flame, a
buzzer goes off and you are supposed to hear the buzzer and come in
from the other room and hold the knob in for 15 seconds. * So you need
a new buzzer to let you know every time you're supposed to do this.-

I never heard or seen that kind of stove.

Mikepier wrote:
Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks
Hi,
Sounds like there is a electonic control module which is malfunctioning.

Mikepier wrote:
Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks
Hi,
Sounds like there is a electonic control module which is malfunctioning.

Hi,
Sounds like there is a electonic control module which is malfunctioning.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is no electronic module in the parts list, so I don't think it
has one.
From what I've been gathering on the internet, thisoven is one POS .
I might call it quits and just get a brand new stove for $325 at Lowes

Hi,
Sounds like there is a electonic control module which is malfunctioning.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is no electronic module in the parts list, so I don't think it
has one.
From what I've been gathering on the internet, thisoven is one POS .
I might call it quits and just get a brand new stove for $325 at Lowes

On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:23:57 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
wrote:

So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

That still does not explain how it re-ignites.

Good point! I guess I'm living in pilot light land.

Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.

Try setting the oven higher than you have been, like for 425. *Just
becasue I'm curious. Surely after it reaches that temperature and goes
a little higher, and then turns off, it would turn on again at 410,
415, 420, and since it ran at the lower temp, 325, plainly the
thermocouple keeps the gas on at 325. *How much more so at 410 plus!

So, and bear in mind I have an electric stove (my house has no gas),
it seems to me it's what ever controls the valve that is bad. *Is the
thermocouple and valve one piece?

No, I don't think so.

The other possiblity is that the buzzer is bad. *In this method, the
flame goes out and then later when it's time to restart the flame, a
buzzer goes off and you are supposed to hear the buzzer and come in
from the other room and hold the knob in for 15 seconds. * So you need
a new buzzer to let you know every time you're supposed to do this.-

I never heard or seen that kind of stove.

Patent Pending.

When I get it on the market, I'll probably be spamming this group.
I'm also looking for a buzzer supplier, if anyone is interested.

On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:23:57 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
wrote:

So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

That still does not explain how it re-ignites.

Good point! I guess I'm living in pilot light land.

Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.

Try setting the oven higher than you have been, like for 425. *Just
becasue I'm curious. Surely after it reaches that temperature and goes
a little higher, and then turns off, it would turn on again at 410,
415, 420, and since it ran at the lower temp, 325, plainly the
thermocouple keeps the gas on at 325. *How much more so at 410 plus!

So, and bear in mind I have an electric stove (my house has no gas),
it seems to me it's what ever controls the valve that is bad. *Is the
thermocouple and valve one piece?

No, I don't think so.

The other possiblity is that the buzzer is bad. *In this method, the
flame goes out and then later when it's time to restart the flame, a
buzzer goes off and you are supposed to hear the buzzer and come in
from the other room and hold the knob in for 15 seconds. * So you need
a new buzzer to let you know every time you're supposed to do this.-

I never heard or seen that kind of stove.

Patent Pending.

When I get it on the market, I'll probably be spamming this group.
I'm also looking for a buzzer supplier, if anyone is interested.

Mikepier wrote:
Hi,
Sounds like there is a electonic control module which is malfunctioning.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is no electronic module in the parts list, so I don't think it
has one.
From what I've been gathering on the internet, thisoven is one POS .
I might call it quits and just get a brand new stove for $325 at Lowes

Hmmm,
You said whatever controls valve is bad. Think logic.

Mikepier wrote:
Hi,
Sounds like there is a electonic control module which is malfunctioning.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is no electronic module in the parts list, so I don't think it
has one.
From what I've been gathering on the internet, thisoven is one POS .
I might call it quits and just get a brand new stove for $325 at Lowes

Hmmm,
You said whatever controls valve is bad. Think logic.

On Oct 29, 11:48*am, Mikepier wrote:
*Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, *does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven *knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing *I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. *I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

Have you contacted the manufacturer, or do you know someone that has a
similar stove, or do you know someone who knows someone who is a
repair person???

On Oct 29, 11:48*am, Mikepier wrote:
*Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, *does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven *knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing *I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. *I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

Have you contacted the manufacturer, or do you know someone that has a
similar stove, or do you know someone who knows someone who is a
repair person???

On Oct 30, 12:42*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Oct 29, 11:48*am, Mikepier wrote:





*Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, *does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven *knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing *I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. *I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

Have you contacted the manufacturer, or do you know someone that has a
similar stove, or do you know someone who knows someone who is a
repair person???- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

All the manufacturer tells me is that I need to get an authorized
person to look at it, they are not very helpful. I have googled this
stove online, and it seems a lot of people are not happy with Avanti's
products.
I've also searched under "oven ignition systems" and came across this
excellent link:
http://www.appliance411.com/faq/gas_..._systems.shtml

but not once does it mention the type of ignition system this oven
has. How wierd is that?
I've fixed enough stoves in to know how they work, but this stove has
me wondering if it even works right from day 1.

On Oct 30, 11:27*am, bud-- wrote:
Mikepier wrote:
So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

That still does not explain how it re-ignites. Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.

How about a little duct tape to hold the knob in?

My *guess* is there should be a pilot that stays lit while the oven
control is on. Should be visible where it is when the control is off -
maybe look with a mirror. There would be a separate small gas tube from
the control to the pilot. If you find a location, is there a pilot flame
at that location when the burner is lit? I believe real old oven
controls had a pilot adjustment screw behind the control knob.

That would make the most sense.

Mikepier wrote:
So when the oven is at 325 and it turns off, if the flame is supposed
to go on again when the oven drops to 315**, that should be hot enough
that the gas is is still available.

That still does not explain how it re-ignites. Yes the thermocouple
might still be hot enough to still open the gas valve, but I'm still
trying to figure out what exactly lights up the flame since nobody is
holding the knob in.


How about a little duct tape to hold the knob in?

My *guess* is there should be a pilot that stays lit while the oven
control is on. Should be visible where it is when the control is off -
maybe look with a mirror. There would be a separate small gas tube from
the control to the pilot. If you find a location, is there a pilot flame
at that location when the burner is lit? I believe real old oven
controls had a pilot adjustment screw behind the control knob.

On Fri, 30 Oct 2009 20:34:02 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:



It does, but he says the broiler goes out. *Broilers are usually just full
on all the time.

Good point. *It's been so long since I had a gas oven. * If it never
turns off it doesn't need a way to relight itself. *So why is it
turning off. *I think he has the manual. *Does it refer to any of htis
in the manual.

(The electric oven has a separate element for the "broiler" at the top
of the oven. The instructions say not to shut the door all the way
when broiling, and it took me many years to figure out why. *I thought
it would get so hot it would damage something if the oven door was
shut, but now I think it will get so hot, the thermostat willt turn
the broiler off. *I should look for schematic.(- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On our olden days gas stove, the broiler was at the "hot" end of the
dial for the oven temperature. It basically turned on the flame full
time and the food was under the flame to broil it. I don't remember
how the initial flame was lighted.

We had ovens like that too. I guess two such ovens in our first two
houses, plus again in NYC in the 70's and 80's. Rentals don't usually
come with the fanciest applieances.

At the front middle of hte oven was a 3/4" hole where one held a match
after turning the burner on. Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally. This the really "green" way to
do it. No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light. Just one match to light the broiler
or oven. This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

(The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)

On Fri, 30 Oct 2009 20:34:02 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:



It does, but he says the broiler goes out. *Broilers are usually just full
on all the time.

Good point. *It's been so long since I had a gas oven. * If it never
turns off it doesn't need a way to relight itself. *So why is it
turning off. *I think he has the manual. *Does it refer to any of htis
in the manual.

(The electric oven has a separate element for the "broiler" at the top
of the oven. The instructions say not to shut the door all the way
when broiling, and it took me many years to figure out why. *I thought
it would get so hot it would damage something if the oven door was
shut, but now I think it will get so hot, the thermostat willt turn
the broiler off. *I should look for schematic.(- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On our olden days gas stove, the broiler was at the "hot" end of the
dial for the oven temperature. It basically turned on the flame full
time and the food was under the flame to broil it. I don't remember
how the initial flame was lighted.

We had ovens like that too. I guess two such ovens in our first two
houses, plus again in NYC in the 70's and 80's. Rentals don't usually
come with the fanciest applieances.

At the front middle of hte oven was a 3/4" hole where one held a match
after turning the burner on. Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally. This the really "green" way to
do it. No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light. Just one match to light the broiler
or oven. This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

(The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)

"mm" wrote in message
We had ovens like that too. I guess two such ovens in our first two
houses, plus again in NYC in the 70's and 80's. Rentals don't usually
come with the fanciest applieances.

At the front middle of hte oven was a 3/4" hole where one held a match
after turning the burner on. Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally. This the really "green" way to
do it. No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light. Just one match to light the broiler
or oven. This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

(The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)


Yes, the old ones used the same burner and you had to get way down tot he
broiler. Now, a second burner is in the top of the oven for broiling. Less
bending and we actually use it at times, unlike the low ones.

At the front middle of hte oven was a 3/4" hole where one held a match
after turning the burner on. Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally. This the really "green" way to
do it. No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light. Just one match to light the broiler
or oven. This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

(The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)

I remember the same type (I think we had a Caloric) "sucking" the
flame off the match.

bob_v

On Oct 31, 8:59*am, Bob Villa wrote:
At the front middle of hte oven was a 3/4" hole where one held a match

after turning the burner on. * Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally. * This the really "green" way to
do it. *No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light. * Just one match to light the broiler
or oven. * This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

*(The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)

I remember the same type (I think we had a Caloric) "sucking" the
flame off the match.

bob_v

When I was a wee child I remember gram-ma using the stove-top
burners. There was a button for a flame-thrower-like device you lit
with a match...it would light the burner so your hand would not be
close to the flare-up of the burner. (We've all had similar
experiences manually lighting or LP grills)

bob_v

On Sat, 31 Oct 2009 07:38:24 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
wrote:

On Oct 31, 8:59*am, Bob Villa wrote:
At the front middle of hte oven was a 3/4" hole where one held a match

For some reason the hole seemed bigger last night. It was a half or
5/8" hole.

And Ed, my mother was no athlete and 55 years old, but she had no
trouble using the broiler tray that was 8 inches above the floor.
(After she was age 55, I don't remember what kind of broiler she had.)

after turning the burner on. * Somehow the match flame was sucked down
the hole, and I mean that literally. * This the really "green" way to
do it. *No expensive igniter that has to be replaced periodically and
no gas wasted on a pilot light. * Just one match to light the broiler
or oven. * This was the primary purpose of "kitchen matches".

*(The burner was above the broiler and below the oven as I think it is
now.)

I remember the same type (I think we had a Caloric) "sucking" the
flame off the match.

bob_v

When I was a wee child I remember gram-ma using the stove-top
burners. There was a button for a flame-thrower-like device you lit
with a match...it would light the burner so your hand would not be
close to the flare-up of the burner. (We've all had similar
experiences manually lighting or LP grills)

bob_v

They had pilot lights for top burners much earlier or maybe just in
many more stoves. I guess because people use the oven or broiler
usually only once a day, and the top burners are used for everything.
Making coffee. There were no electric coffee makers.
Cooking breakfast, lunch, some or all of dinner, soup, vegetables,
potatoes, custard.....loads of things.

Our stoves had two burners on each side, with a pilot light in between
each pair. Some stoves had 4 burners close together, with one pilot
light for all four. Saved 50% of the pilot light gas. But the cost
of the gas was very low, I think. My mother worried about leaving
lights on but the pilot light didn't bother her. Although that mght
have been because she had no way to turn it off.

On Oct 29, 1:10*pm, Mikepier wrote:
On Oct 29, 12:55*pm, N8N wrote:





On Oct 29, 12:48*pm, Mikepier wrote:

*Hopfully someone here can shed some light on this. I have an Avanti
24" gas stove with electronic ignition. This oven, unlike most oven's
I've seen, *does not use a glow bar to ignite, but rather the same
type of intermittent ignition use for the cooktop. You have to turn on
the oven *knob, then push in to start the igniter. Once the gas is
lit, you let go and the gas stays lit. Well on my oven, the gas goes
out after you let go of the knob. If I hold the knob on for a good
10-15 seconds, then the oven stays lit. But after it reaches the
preset temperature, the oven goes out and stays out, it does not light
again when the temp falls below the T-stat setting. Which is another
thing *I don't know how that works, how does it re-ignite? Is there
suppose to be a pilot?
Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? The broiler has the
same problem. *I've asked repairclinic.com, but they do not sell parts
for Avanti, and Avanti's customer support is a joke. The rest of the
stove is fine. I'd like to fix this problem, I've fixed stoves in the
past, I just need to know what part I need.
Thanks

sounds like a flame sensor or thermocouple is not working. *Have you
at least managed to find a diagram or exploded drawing or parts list
for your stove?

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is a thermocouple in the oven, I can see it. Also I do have an
exploded parts list.
*I just read the manual online, and it does say hold the knob in for
10-15 seconds. Which is fine as the oven stays lit.
What I don't understand is after it reaches a preset temp and the
flame goes out, how does it know to re-ignite? That's what I want to
know, the operation of the oven. Obviously it can't re-igite by itself
beacuse you need to push the knob in, right? Thats why I thought maybe
there's suppose to be a pilot light somewhere.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I dont think it is suppose to go all the way out until you turn it
off. There may be some kind of adjustment for this or the valve that
controls it is bad.

Jimmie

replying to Mikepier, Wm wrote:
Having the same trouble on our first time using the oven in this POS stove.
Unfortunately this is our Thanksgiving meal that we can not cook for our 88 yr
old mother at her home 300 miles from our home.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...lp-402988-.htm

On Thursday, November 23, 2017 at 2:14:12 PM UTC-6, Wm wrote:
replying to Mikepier, Wm wrote:
Having the same trouble on our first time using the oven in this POS stove.
Unfortunately this is our Thanksgiving meal that we can not cook for our 88 yr
old mother at her home 300 miles from our home.
--


8 years ago, Mikepier was so distraught over the problem he was having that he jumped off a bridge. It was a tragic loss. He is survived by a wife, 4 ex-wives, 14 children, 8 dogs, 13 cats and 632 gerbils. The gerbils really miss him. Of course, you could pay attention to the date of the original post and last reply which was 8 years ago! ヽ(ヅ)ノ

[8~{} Uncle Observant Monster

"Colonel Edmund J. Burke" wrote in message
...

On 11/23/2017 12:14 PM, Wm wrote:
replying to Mikepier, Wm wrote:
Having the same trouble on our first time using the oven in this POS
stove.
Unfortunately this is our Thanksgiving meal that we can not cook for our
88 yr
old mother at her home 300 miles from our home.


The old whore should be in a skilled nursing facility.

the crud are here in my ass about my uncle

On 25/11/17 01:37, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:
On 11/23/2017 12:14 PM, Wm wrote:
replying to Mikepier, Wm wrote:
Having the same trouble on our first time using the oven in this POS
stove.
Unfortunately this is our Thanksgiving meal that we can not cook for
our 88 yr
old mother at her home 300 miles from our home.


The old whore should be in a skilled nursing facility.

Maybe, but with the reduction in taxes, there will be no Government
contribution. You won't be putting in for it, so what is it to you?

We try as possible to keep elderly and disabled people in their home
environment. The care in a skilled facility is better, but keeping the
family unit together helps them to live longer. My father-in-law was in
a nursing home for years. He had Parkinson's Disease, and in the later
years, didn't respond much. Keeping the family together makes for a
stronger society, as well. Before the Industrial Revolution, most
people died at home. With an 88-y-o mother, wouldn't you do the same?
Or would you be like Nero, who got hit men to kill his mother?

Here in Australia, several surveys have demonstrated that by giving
residents adequate care in low-care nursing homes, they can be prevented
from ending up in an intensive care one, and the cost to Government will
be reduced. But the politicians haven't acted on any of the reports.

You shouldn't post to a group dealing with suicide, unless you have a
personal reason to do so. And even then, you should use a spoiler in
your Subject: heading."Copycat" suicides can happen, especially if the
first person is high profile. I went to a Web page for a place in Wales
for genealogical research, and found that it had been in the grip of a
suicide epedemic for two years. No reason for it could be found. The
reporter mentioned that the same thing has happened in Australia, among
other places, but gave no further details. A close friend of one girl
who had died there, was fairly certain that Facebook had no effect. A
garish tabloid newspaper with photos of 6 girls on the front page,
wouldn't have helped.

Doug.
--
No man is an island. Don't send to know for whom the bell is tolling.
It is tolling for you.
-- John Donne, in modern English.

"Doug Laidlaw" wrote in message news
On 25/11/17 01:37, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:
On 11/23/2017 12:14 PM, Wm wrote:
replying to Mikepier, Wm wrote:
Having the same trouble on our first time using the oven in this POS
stove.
Unfortunately this is our Thanksgiving meal that we can not cook for
our 88 yr
old mother at her home 300 miles from our home.


The old whore should be in a skilled nursing facility.

Maybe, but with the reduction in taxes, there will be no Government
contribution. You won't be putting in for it, so what is it to you?

We try as possible to keep elderly and disabled people in their home
environment. The care in a skilled facility is better, but keeping the
family unit together helps them to live longer. My father-in-law was in
a nursing home for years. He had Parkinson's Disease, and in the later
years, didn't respond much. Keeping the family together makes for a
stronger society, as well. Before the Industrial Revolution, most
people died at home. With an 88-y-o mother, wouldn't you do the same?
Or would you be like Nero, who got hit men to kill his mother?

Here in Australia, several surveys have demonstrated that by giving
residents adequate care in low-care nursing homes, they can be prevented
from ending up in an intensive care one, and the cost to Government will
be reduced. But the politicians haven't acted on any of the reports.

You shouldn't post to a group dealing with suicide, unless you have a
personal reason to do so. And even then, you should use a spoiler in
your Subject: heading."Copycat" suicides can happen, especially if the
first person is high profile. I went to a Web page for a place in Wales
for genealogical research, and found that it had been in the grip of a
suicide epedemic for two years. No reason for it could be found. The
reporter mentioned that the same thing has happened in Australia, among
other places, but gave no further details. A close friend of one girl
who had died there, was fairly certain that Facebook had no effect. A
garish tabloid newspaper with photos of 6 girls on the front page,
wouldn't have helped.

Doug.
--
No man is an island. Don't send to know for whom the bell is tolling.
It is tolling for you.
-- John Donne, in modern English.

homestead is depicted with 47 beds