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Old October 5th 09, 07:23 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?

so... how in the world can I flash from a roof to t1-11? just fill
the grooves with foam insulation rope and caulk (and then a face
board)? fill the grooves with caulk and run flashing in front? has
anyone done this? I just recently bituthened the joint, running up
the t1-11 about 5 inches. I figured I would screw a board into the
t1-11 and caulk the snot out of it... but that is basically how it was
done previously.. and it would occasionally leak a bit. What's a good
move here? Any input would be appreciated.

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Old October 5th 09, 11:11 PM posted to alt.home.repair
tom tom is offline
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?

On Oct 4, 11:23 pm, xparatrooper wrote:
so... how in the world can I flash from a roof to t1-11? just fill
the grooves with foam insulation rope and caulk (and then a face
board)? fill the grooves with caulk and run flashing in front? has
anyone done this? I just recently bituthened the joint, running up
the t1-11 about 5 inches. I figured I would screw a board into the
t1-11 and caulk the snot out of it... but that is basically how it was
done previously.. and it would occasionally leak a bit. What's a good
move here? Any input would be appreciated.


If this is a roof edge (rake edge) that meets the vertical siding,
it's done with step-flashing, i.e. one 5x7 or 8x8 inch flashing card
under each shingle that laps out into the lower course. These are
installed with a slightly 90 degree bend that slips up behind the
siding. If it's a shed type roof that meets the siding, it's done with
a flashing that starts a few inches up under the t1-11 and laps down
and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of
said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on
every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom
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Old October 6th 09, 05:09 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?


and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of
said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on
every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom



Looks like the original installers didn't flash it at all. I've had
the house for 12 years and the garage was just tar and paper abutted
to the t1-11. I just finished putting bituthene on the whole roof
while I wait for next Spring to put on a metal roof. It will be
snowing up here in a couple days... so Spring will have to do. Looks
like maybe I can get up there with a worm drive and cut through the
t1-11 a couple inches above the roof line, and then attempt to pull
out the t1-11 enough to try to poke some flashing in behind for
drainage. Looks like a pain in the butt coming my way Any ideas
on what to use? a 6" roll and just bend it myself after it gets
tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
eave to peak on two sides.
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Old October 6th 09, 07:12 AM posted to alt.home.repair
tom tom is offline
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?

On Oct 5, 9:09 pm, xparatrooper wrote:
and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of
said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on
every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom


Looks like the original installers didn't flash it at all. I've had
the house for 12 years and the garage was just tar and paper abutted
to the t1-11. I just finished putting bituthene on the whole roof
while I wait for next Spring to put on a metal roof. It will be
snowing up here in a couple days... so Spring will have to do. Looks
like maybe I can get up there with a worm drive and cut through the
t1-11 a couple inches above the roof line, and then attempt to pull
out the t1-11 enough to try to poke some flashing in behind for
drainage. Looks like a pain in the butt coming my way Any ideas
on what to use? a 6" roll and just bend it myself after it gets
tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
eave to peak on two sides.


I'd use aluminum coil stock, and find someone with a brake. You don't
have to install the shed flashing in one piece. Maybe two or even
three pieces with a three-inch lap. Enjoy. Tom
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Old October 6th 09, 11:56 PM posted to alt.home.repair
tom tom is offline
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?

On Oct 5, 9:09 pm, xparatrooper wrote:
and out onto the top course of the roof, covering the fasteners of
said course. There are instructions on how to do these procedures on
every bundle of shingles. How many jumps you got? Tom


Looks like the original installers didn't flash it at all. I've had
the house for 12 years and the garage was just tar and paper abutted
to the t1-11. I just finished putting bituthene on the whole roof
while I wait for next Spring to put on a metal roof. It will be
snowing up here in a couple days... so Spring will have to do. Looks
like maybe I can get up there with a worm drive and cut through the
t1-11 a couple inches above the roof line, and then attempt to pull
out the t1-11 enough to try to poke some flashing in behind for
drainage. Looks like a pain in the butt coming my way Any ideas
on what to use? a 6" roll and just bend it myself after it gets
tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
eave to peak on two sides.


Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some
step-flashing to do. Tom


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Old October 7th 09, 01:44 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?

tucked in? *or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? *I have about 20ft from
eave to peak on two sides.


Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some
step-flashing to do. * Tom

You kind of lost me.... to get the siding to pull away from the
roof, I will end up cutting it maybe 3-4 inches above the roof. I
will then pry the siding away from the studs a little bit, which will
allow me to insert some flashing and then nail it down. The flashing
will then shed onto the roof, which is already coated 100% with
bituthene, and the bituthene actually crawls up the t1-11 siding about
3-4 inches. Would it really matter if I used step flashing, or 10ft
sections?
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Old October 7th 09, 02:21 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?

xparatrooper wrote:
tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
eave to peak on two sides.

Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some
step-flashing to do. Tom

You kind of lost me.... to get the siding to pull away from the
roof, I will end up cutting it maybe 3-4 inches above the roof. I
will then pry the siding away from the studs a little bit, which will
allow me to insert some flashing and then nail it down. The flashing
will then shed onto the roof, which is already coated 100% with
bituthene, and the bituthene actually crawls up the t1-11 siding about
3-4 inches. Would it really matter if I used step flashing, or 10ft
sections?


He missed the part where you will be putting on metal roofing. Step
flashing would be appropriate for shingles. I'm no expert, but your plan
sounds fine to me- basically a valley with one vertical side. If and
when I ever reskin my deck, I need to do about the same thing where
idiot previous owner nailed the deck ledger boards directly to the damn
siding- cut the siding back, flash, and hang the ledger boards off
waterproofed standoffs.

--
aem sends...
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Old October 7th 09, 02:40 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?


idiot previous owner nailed the deck ledger boards directly to the damn
siding- cut the siding back, flash, and hang the ledger boards off
waterproofed standoffs.

--
aem sends...


whew... thanks for that.
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Old October 7th 09, 05:58 AM posted to alt.home.repair
tom tom is offline
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Default attached garage roof meets t1-11... how to flash?

On Oct 6, 6:21 pm, aemeijers wrote:
xparatrooper wrote:
tucked in? or some 10ft pieces of Z channel? I have about 20ft from
eave to peak on two sides.
Whoops. After re-reading your post, it sounds like you've got some
step-flashing to do. Tom

You kind of lost me.... to get the siding to pull away from the
roof, I will end up cutting it maybe 3-4 inches above the roof. I
will then pry the siding away from the studs a little bit, which will
allow me to insert some flashing and then nail it down. The flashing
will then shed onto the roof, which is already coated 100% with
bituthene, and the bituthene actually crawls up the t1-11 siding about
3-4 inches. Would it really matter if I used step flashing, or 10ft
sections?


He missed the part where you will be putting on metal roofing. Step
flashing would be appropriate for shingles. I'm no expert, but your plan
sounds fine to me- basically a valley with one vertical side. If and
when I ever reskin my deck, I need to do about the same thing where
idiot previous owner nailed the deck ledger boards directly to the damn
siding- cut the siding back, flash, and hang the ledger boards off
waterproofed standoffs.

--
aem sends...


You're right, I missed the metal roofing. And I did _assume_
shingles, Jumper, go up under the siding with the bituthane, and lap
it _outside_onto the siding at the eave(you'll have to make a sort of
vertical cut in the siding), then install the rake panel with a bend a
few inches up under the siding. Make sure you allow the water to exit
from behind the siding at the eave on this piece, too. Good catch,
aem, thanks. Tom


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