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#1
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Stainless steel cable for ground "Rod"??
I acquired a length of 3/8" stranded stainless steel cable (from sailboat
rigging) at a metal recycler. I am planning to use this as my ground "rod" for my house electrical system. Is there any reason this would not be a good choice for my grounding system if I run it down 15 feet, well into the water table, which is 7-10 feet down. I will do this by using PVC pipe and water pressure to tunnel into the ground, inserting the cable, then pulling the PVC out. Should I leave my current galvanized rod connected also if I do this? |
#2
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Stainless steel cable for ground "Rod"??
Is an enima something that leaves me wondering?
-- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "RBM" wrote in message ... Considering it is not an Nec approved method, I'd say, go for it, but leave the approved grounding method intact. Kinda like an enima on a dead person, can't hurt |
#3
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Stainless steel cable for ground "Rod"??
"Bob F" wrote in message ... I acquired a length of 3/8" stranded stainless steel cable (from sailboat rigging) at a metal recycler. I am planning to use this as my ground "rod" for my house electrical system. Is there any reason this would not be a good choice for my grounding system if I run it down 15 feet, well into the water table, which is 7-10 feet down. I will do this by using PVC pipe and water pressure to tunnel into the ground, inserting the cable, then pulling the PVC out. Should I leave my current galvanized rod connected also if I do this? *It may work fine as a grounding electrode, but I prefer to stay with approved methods. In your case I would be concerned about your connection to the electrical panel or meter. Usually those terminations are only approved for copper and aluminum conductors. After you make your tunnel for the stainless cable to be inserted, what will cause the tunnel to compress around the cable to make good contact with the earth? |
#4
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Stainless steel cable for ground "Rod"??
On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 14:40:09 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote: I acquired a length of 3/8" stranded stainless steel cable (from sailboat rigging) at a metal recycler. I am planning to use this as my ground "rod" for my house electrical system. Is there any reason this would not be a good choice for my grounding system if I run it down 15 feet, well into the water table, which is 7-10 feet down. I will do this by using PVC pipe and water pressure to tunnel into the ground, inserting the cable, then pulling the PVC out. Should I leave my current galvanized rod connected also if I do this? There will be a considerable difference in surface area between what you get with a 1" or so diameter ground rod and the 3/8" cable. Part of the benefit of the rod would be, I would think, that his has substantial surface area. |
#5
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Stainless steel cable for ground "Rod"??
Bob F wrote:
I acquired a length of 3/8" stranded stainless steel cable (from sailboat rigging) at a metal recycler. I am planning to use this as my ground "rod" for my house electrical system. Is there any reason this would not be a good choice for my grounding system if I run it down 15 feet, well into the water table, which is 7-10 feet down. I will do this by using PVC pipe and water pressure to tunnel into the ground, inserting the cable, then pulling the PVC out. Should I leave my current galvanized rod connected also if I do this? If for some reason you want to add the stainless cable, yes leave the current galvanized rod connected. If you are worried your current ground rod is not sufficient, you may want to update it to latest code. I *think* that is 2 10' rods 6' apart. If it's new construction the ground starts out with all the rebar in the footer. It has to be electrically connected and inspected before the footer is poured. Part of the rebar, or maybe copper wire from the rebar in the footer is then attached as your ground without the 10' stakes. (I think that is right?) I just installed 2 10' ground rods I think 6' apart so I can have a service going directly to the garage. I'm not sure about all of that, I was relying on my brother, an electrician, to do the work and I was the helper. Well not exactly. He let me hammer in the 2 10' ground rods. (was ready to rent a big hammer drill if needed but it wasn't needed). To avoid 2 bills which the power co. charges commercial rates for the 2nd one, I'm having a "current transformer" installed out on the pole with the transformer. From the pole there will be a service going to the house, and a second one going to the garage. The "current transformer" monitors both services and powers a meter out on the pole so I only get one bill. And they won't have to get out of the truck to read the meter since it will be a newer infra-red optical output that is read from a hand held unit pointed out of the truck window. |
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