Repairing broken china
 

I would like to do as seamless a repair as possible of a broken plate
of fine (bone) china (made by Lenox).

The pieces all fit together seamlessly.

I tried using cyanocrylate (from Rockler) but it failed to hold. I
tried using different types of cyanocrylate (CA) including the thick,
flexible and media types. I tried putting the glue on just one side of
the crack and also on both sides. I tried wetting one side with
water. However, even after holding in place for 1-2 minutes, there was
zero adhesion.

- Is china just too porous to bond with CA? (I haven't had the problem
before with less "fine" china)?
- Could the CA be too old? (it is about 2 years old but still seems to
work just fine on glass and wood)
- Do I need to hold it together for longer? (although CA usually bonds
strongly for me within 30 seconds and these joints had zero adhesion
after 1-2 minutes)
- Is CA accelerator necessary? (again I haven't found it necessary in
the past though it does speed up bonding)

Alternatively, is there a better glue to use?
(I had preferred CA since it is clear and usually gives almmost no
joint line)
If so, what glues would you recommend?

Repairing broken china
 

blueman wrote:
I would like to do as seamless a repair as possible of a broken plate
of fine (bone) china (made by Lenox).

The pieces all fit together seamlessly.

I tried using cyanocrylate (from Rockler) but it failed to hold. I
tried using different types of cyanocrylate (CA) including the thick,
flexible and media types. I tried putting the glue on just one side of
the crack and also on both sides. I tried wetting one side with
water. However, even after holding in place for 1-2 minutes, there was
zero adhesion.

- Is china just too porous to bond with CA? (I haven't had the problem
before with less "fine" china)?
- Could the CA be too old? (it is about 2 years old but still seems to
work just fine on glass and wood)
- Do I need to hold it together for longer? (although CA usually bonds
strongly for me within 30 seconds and these joints had zero adhesion
after 1-2 minutes)
- Is CA accelerator necessary? (again I haven't found it necessary in
the past though it does speed up bonding)

Alternatively, is there a better glue to use?
(I had preferred CA since it is clear and usually gives almmost no
joint line)
If so, what glues would you recommend?
Hi,
There are trained professionals who do such repair. One of my friend
does that. He went to England for training. Ask around where you live.

Repairing broken china
 

"blueman" wrote in message
...

I would like to do as seamless a repair as possible of a broken plate
of fine (bone) china (made by Lenox).
The pieces all fit together seamlessly.
I tried using cyanocrylate (from Rockler) but it failed to hold.

What does Lenox say when you ask? "Live Help" is offered
at www.lenox.com.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

Repairing broken china
 

"blueman" wrote in message
...
I would like to do as seamless a repair as possible of a broken plate
of fine (bone) china (made by Lenox).

The pieces all fit together seamlessly.

I tried using cyanocrylate (from Rockler) but it failed to hold. I
tried using different types of cyanocrylate (CA) including the thick,
flexible and media types. I tried putting the glue on just one side of
the crack and also on both sides. I tried wetting one side with
water. However, even after holding in place for 1-2 minutes, there was
zero adhesion.

- Is china just too porous to bond with CA? (I haven't had the problem
before with less "fine" china)?
- Could the CA be too old? (it is about 2 years old but still seems to
work just fine on glass and wood)
- Do I need to hold it together for longer? (although CA usually bonds
strongly for me within 30 seconds and these joints had zero adhesion
after 1-2 minutes)
- Is CA accelerator necessary? (again I haven't found it necessary in
the past though it does speed up bonding)

Alternatively, is there a better glue to use?
(I had preferred CA since it is clear and usually gives almmost no
joint line)
If so, what glues would you recommend?

epoxy. you only get one chance at it though so get it right the first time

Repairing broken china
 

On Sep 15, 1:29*am, blueman wrote:
I would like to do as seamless a repair as possible of a broken plate
of fine (bone) china (made by Lenox).
{snip}

Alternatively, is there a better glue to use?
(I had preferred CA since it is clear and usually gives almmost no
joint line)
If so, what glues would you recommend?

Epoxy.
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to...equipment2.htm

R

Repairing broken china
 

"blueman" wrote in message
...
I would like to do as seamless a repair as possible of a broken plate
of fine (bone) china (made by Lenox).

The pieces all fit together seamlessly.

I tried using cyanocrylate (from Rockler) but it failed to hold. I
tried using different types of cyanocrylate (CA) including the thick,
flexible and media types. I tried putting the glue on just one side of
the crack and also on both sides. I tried wetting one side with
water. However, even after holding in place for 1-2 minutes, there was
zero adhesion.

- Is china just too porous to bond with CA? (I haven't had the problem
before with less "fine" china)?
- Could the CA be too old? (it is about 2 years old but still seems to
work just fine on glass and wood)
- Do I need to hold it together for longer? (although CA usually bonds
strongly for me within 30 seconds and these joints had zero adhesion
after 1-2 minutes)
- Is CA accelerator necessary? (again I haven't found it necessary in
the past though it does speed up bonding)

Alternatively, is there a better glue to use?
(I had preferred CA since it is clear and usually gives almmost no
joint line)
If so, what glues would you recommend?

Believe it or not--what has worked for me countless of times, on many odd
repairs, including tile is Phenoseal adhesive caulking.
It has been successful where epoxy failed to do the job. It comes in
translucent as well as white. In Home Depot or Lowes.
MLD

Repairing broken china
 

On Tue, 15 Sep 2009 01:29:33 -0400, blueman wrote:

I would like to do as seamless a repair as possible of a broken plate
of fine (bone) china (made by Lenox).

The pieces all fit together seamlessly.

Eposy takes space, in all its forms afaik. So I don't see how the
pieces would fit together seemlessly after epoxee, or caulk, is used.

Though this would be a bigger problem if there are more than two
pieces.

thought white glue, elmers glue, was supposed to be used for china.
It's good for porous stuff. I don't know if what you've done has left
an imporous coating on part of it.

I've never successfully glued anything with CA. It doesn't even stick
to my fingers. And there is no such thing as one glue glues all.