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Eric Gelman September 8th 09 01:10 AM

adding a shutoff valve
 
I want to add a shutoff valve to an existing 3/4 inch copper water
line, using solder fittings. If I cut into the line and create a space
large enough for the valve, will there be enough flex in the piple for
me to fit the valve in, or do I have to use a union or some other type
of fitting?
Thanks,
Eric

Colbyt September 8th 09 01:42 AM

adding a shutoff valve
 

"Eric Gelman" wrote in message
...
I want to add a shutoff valve to an existing 3/4 inch copper water
line, using solder fittings. If I cut into the line and create a space
large enough for the valve, will there be enough flex in the piple for
me to fit the valve in, or do I have to use a union or some other type
of fitting?
Thanks,
Eric


No one but a person on the site can tell if there is any play in the line.

You can use a "repair" coupling in conjunction with a short piece of pipe
and your valve to add play to a line where there is none. Repair couplings
are bigger than normal and do not have a stop so they can slide over the
pipe and then return to the proper position. Pencil marks on the cleaned
copper can help with the alignment.

Unions work also.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com




aemeijers September 8th 09 01:52 AM

adding a shutoff valve
 
Eric Gelman wrote:
I want to add a shutoff valve to an existing 3/4 inch copper water
line, using solder fittings. If I cut into the line and create a space
large enough for the valve, will there be enough flex in the piple for
me to fit the valve in, or do I have to use a union or some other type
of fitting?
Thanks,
Eric


We can't see your basement from here. It may or may not have enough
flex, depending on how long the run is, how pipe is fastened or wedged,
and how long the runs are past the first elbow in each direction. Grab
the pipe and try to move it, before you cut. Copper is generally more
forgiving than old galvanized would be, but there is still a slight risk
of causing problems elsewhere anytime you flex old pipe runs. Eyeball
the whole run with a flashlight and your fingers, looking for green
spots and such that can indicate minute leaks and weak spots.

I need to do the same thing in my basement, to add a tee for the
icemaker, to replace the vampire tap valve that I am scared to touch.
One of these days....

--
aem sends...

Nate Nagel September 8th 09 03:32 AM

adding a shutoff valve
 
Eric Gelman wrote:
I want to add a shutoff valve to an existing 3/4 inch copper water
line, using solder fittings. If I cut into the line and create a space
large enough for the valve, will there be enough flex in the piple for
me to fit the valve in, or do I have to use a union or some other type
of fitting?
Thanks,
Eric


quick answer - "it depends."

You can buy sweat fittings without dimples in the middle so they can be
slipped completely over a pipe. if you find your pipes are constrained,
this is what they're used for - make a cut in the pipe, brighten it up,
then you can just butt the cut ends together and slide the fitting over
the cut and sweat as usual.

I'd buy a short length of 3/4" pipe just to reduce prep time, then you
only have to really clean up two cut ends instead of four.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

zxcvbob September 8th 09 03:39 AM

adding a shutoff valve
 
Eric Gelman wrote:
I want to add a shutoff valve to an existing 3/4 inch copper water
line, using solder fittings. If I cut into the line and create a space
large enough for the valve, will there be enough flex in the piple for
me to fit the valve in, or do I have to use a union or some other type
of fitting?
Thanks,
Eric



Solder a stub of copper pipe in each end of the valve first. Then you
don't need any play at all to solder the assembly in place using "repair
couplings". (just a normal coupling without a stop in the middle -- be
careful to center it)

Bob

Stormin Mormon September 8th 09 10:25 PM

adding a shutoff valve
 
We can't see it from here, but very likely your piple has
enough flex. Copper piple is rather forgiving. Ball valve or
gate valve is good. Globe valve has too much resistance to
water.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Eric Gelman" wrote in message
...
I want to add a shutoff valve to an existing 3/4 inch copper
water
line, using solder fittings. If I cut into the line and
create a space
large enough for the valve, will there be enough flex in the
piple for
me to fit the valve in, or do I have to use a union or some
other type
of fitting?
Thanks,
Eric



Phisherman[_2_] September 9th 09 12:03 AM

adding a shutoff valve
 
On Mon, 7 Sep 2009 17:10:46 -0700 (PDT), Eric Gelman
wrote:

I want to add a shutoff valve to an existing 3/4 inch copper water
line, using solder fittings. If I cut into the line and create a space
large enough for the valve, will there be enough flex in the piple for
me to fit the valve in, or do I have to use a union or some other type
of fitting?
Thanks,
Eric



Maybe, every situation is different. Generally the more length in the
pipe, the greater the flex. You may get more leeway removing a
support, etc. My last resort is using a sleave coupling, but it is an
option often used in tight places.


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