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Default Cutting cast iron pipe

I have a 3" cast iron vent pipe that I need to cut in order to rework some
plumbing. I used a sawzall with a cast iron blade by Lenox and was able to
cut through it after about 5 minutes. Unfortunately I did not start the cut
evenly (it is a vertical pipe so I must have held it not perfectly
horizontally) and the cut was a bit slanted. I noticed it after the cut was
half way but I have no choice but to continue and get through the cut. Now
the high end is about 5/8" higher then the low end.

I plan to use a no hub coupling to join with a PVC pipe, and I do not want
the gap to be more than 1/4" since I might one day need to snake the line
and I don't want a cutting head to slide through the 5/8" space and end up
cutting the no hub rubber sleeve even if I have a metal shield outside I
rather get the cast iron cut end to within 1/4".

I have two choices - to do a new cut and this time try to cut it evenly, but
I am very close to a sanitary tee if I mis-cut again I will have to replace
that too...or I can use an angle grinder to grind the edge even, but I am
wondering can I really use a metal wheel to grind even a 3" CI pipe that is
5/8" off?

Thanks in advance for any advise,

MC


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Default Cutting cast iron pipe


MiamiCuse wrote:

I have a 3" cast iron vent pipe that I need to cut in order to rework some
plumbing. I used a sawzall with a cast iron blade by Lenox and was able to
cut through it after about 5 minutes. Unfortunately I did not start the cut
evenly (it is a vertical pipe so I must have held it not perfectly
horizontally) and the cut was a bit slanted. I noticed it after the cut was
half way but I have no choice but to continue and get through the cut. Now
the high end is about 5/8" higher then the low end.

I plan to use a no hub coupling to join with a PVC pipe, and I do not want
the gap to be more than 1/4" since I might one day need to snake the line
and I don't want a cutting head to slide through the 5/8" space and end up
cutting the no hub rubber sleeve even if I have a metal shield outside I
rather get the cast iron cut end to within 1/4".

I have two choices - to do a new cut and this time try to cut it evenly, but
I am very close to a sanitary tee if I mis-cut again I will have to replace
that too...or I can use an angle grinder to grind the edge even, but I am
wondering can I really use a metal wheel to grind even a 3" CI pipe that is
5/8" off?

Thanks in advance for any advise,

MC


Grind, probably not, but if you draw a reference line in chalk and use a
cutoff wheel in the angle grinder you should be able to do it.
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Default Cutting cast iron pipe

On Aug 28, 7:50*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have a 3" cast iron vent pipe that I need to cut in order to rework some
plumbing. *I used a sawzall with a cast iron blade by Lenox and was able to
cut through it after about 5 minutes. *Unfortunately I did not start the cut
evenly (it is a vertical pipe so I must have held it not perfectly
horizontally) and the cut was a bit slanted. *I noticed it after the cut was
half way but I have no choice but to continue and get through the cut. *Now
the high end is about 5/8" higher then the low end.

I plan to use a no hub coupling to join with a PVC pipe, and I do not want
the gap to be more than 1/4" since I might one day need to snake the line
and I don't want a cutting head to slide through the 5/8" space and end up
cutting the no hub rubber sleeve even if I have a metal shield outside I
rather get the cast iron cut end to within 1/4".

I have two choices - to do a new cut and this time try to cut it evenly, but
I am very close to a sanitary tee if I mis-cut again I will have to replace
that too...or I can use an angle grinder to grind the edge even, but I am
wondering can I really use a metal wheel to grind even a 3" CI pipe that is
5/8" off?

Thanks in advance for any advise,

MC


Go down to your tool rental store and get a big autobody type 7"
grinder with a 50 grit pad. It will take the 5/8" misfit down in about
5 minutes or so. The typical angle grinder just doesn't have the
cojones to do what you need. You probably heard your Grandad say, "You
can't drive a spike with a tack hammer" so take that advice to heart.

Joe
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Default Cutting cast iron pipe


"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

MiamiCuse wrote:

I have a 3" cast iron vent pipe that I need to cut in order to rework

some
plumbing. I used a sawzall with a cast iron blade by Lenox and was able

to
cut through it after about 5 minutes. Unfortunately I did not start the

cut
evenly (it is a vertical pipe so I must have held it not perfectly
horizontally) and the cut was a bit slanted. I noticed it after the cut

was
half way but I have no choice but to continue and get through the cut.

Now
the high end is about 5/8" higher then the low end.

I plan to use a no hub coupling to join with a PVC pipe, and I do not

want
the gap to be more than 1/4" since I might one day need to snake the

line
and I don't want a cutting head to slide through the 5/8" space and end

up
cutting the no hub rubber sleeve even if I have a metal shield outside I
rather get the cast iron cut end to within 1/4".

I have two choices - to do a new cut and this time try to cut it evenly,

but
I am very close to a sanitary tee if I mis-cut again I will have to

replace
that too...or I can use an angle grinder to grind the edge even, but I

am
wondering can I really use a metal wheel to grind even a 3" CI pipe that

is
5/8" off?

Thanks in advance for any advise,

MC


Grind, probably not, but if you draw a reference line in chalk and use a
cutoff wheel in the angle grinder you should be able to do it.


I think this idea has merit. You might experiment with the chunk you cut
off, but I suspect that if you were to score the pipe you might even be able
to snap off the bit you want to discard.

You might use the cutoff wheel on the OD of the pipe scoring it to a depth
of aprox. 1/4 the thickness and then use a smaller dremel type cut off wheel
to score the inside. Scored in this manner, the pipe should crack along the
line. You might also make a few cuts to the line from the edge.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


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Default Cutting cast iron pipe

If you own a small angle grinder, 4-5", get a few weld cutting
disks. They will zip through the cast iron and a fairly easy to
control.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
news
I have a 3" cast iron vent pipe that I need to cut in order to
rework some plumbing. I used a sawzall with a cast iron blade by
Lenox and was able to cut through it after about 5 minutes.
Unfortunately I did not start the cut evenly (it is a vertical
pipe so I must have held it not perfectly horizontally) and the
cut was a bit slanted. I noticed it after the cut was half way
but I have no choice but to continue and get through the cut.
Now the high end is about 5/8" higher then the low end.

I plan to use a no hub coupling to join with a PVC pipe, and I
do not want the gap to be more than 1/4" since I might one day
need to snake the line and I don't want a cutting head to slide
through the 5/8" space and end up cutting the no hub rubber
sleeve even if I have a metal shield outside I rather get the
cast iron cut end to within 1/4".

I have two choices - to do a new cut and this time try to cut it
evenly, but I am very close to a sanitary tee if I mis-cut again
I will have to replace that too...or I can use an angle grinder
to grind the edge even, but I am wondering can I really use a
metal wheel to grind even a 3" CI pipe that is 5/8" off?

Thanks in advance for any advise,

MC



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