Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill

--
Private Profit; Public Poop! Avoid collateral windfall!

"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
...
Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill

--

if it's leaking, it's too late. at that time, it's garbage. it makes sense
to look at the anodes and replace if they're 75% used up.

On Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:29:18 -0700, Salmon Egg
wrote:

Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill

Changing it after it starts leaking is not going to help.

Changing it before it is all used up can certainly extend the life.
The trick is knowing when. The second trick is actually changing it.
Can be a real job to break it loose without damaging anything, and you
need a lot of clearance above to replace, although you can find chain
type and/or segmented ones that work for low clearance.

Some manufacturers are using a combination inlet/dip tube/anode that
require disconnecting the supply piping to remove.

HTH,

Paul F.

In article ,
Paul Franklin wrote:

On Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:29:18 -0700, Salmon Egg
wrote:

Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill

Changing it after it starts leaking is not going to help.

Changing it before it is all used up can certainly extend the life.
The trick is knowing when. The second trick is actually changing it.
Can be a real job to break it loose without damaging anything, and you
need a lot of clearance above to replace, although you can find chain
type and/or segmented ones that work for low clearance.

Some manufacturers are using a combination inlet/dip tube/anode that
require disconnecting the supply piping to remove.

In article ,
Paul Franklin wrote:

Changing it after it starts leaking is not going to help.

Changing it before it is all used up can certainly extend the life.
The trick is knowing when. The second trick is actually changing it.
Can be a real job to break it loose without damaging anything, and you
need a lot of clearance above to replace, although you can find chain
type and/or segmented ones that work for low clearance.

Some manufacturers are using a combination inlet/dip tube/anode that
require disconnecting the supply piping to remove.

Thank you both for the quick reply. I had asked a plumber and he seemed
to think that I should just wait until a leak develops. That is why I
posted.

While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As was
mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an anode
from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be even less
ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space. I have a
sneaking suspicion, that the cost of a new heater will be relatively low
compared to what it would take to get a plumber to inspect the anode.

Is a job like that one that requires an impact wrench?

Any thoughts on the economics?

Bill

--
Private Profit; Public Poop! Avoid collateral windfall!

"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Paul Franklin wrote:

On Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:29:18 -0700, Salmon Egg
wrote:

Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill

Changing it after it starts leaking is not going to help.

Changing it before it is all used up can certainly extend the life.
The trick is knowing when. The second trick is actually changing it.
Can be a real job to break it loose without damaging anything, and you
need a lot of clearance above to replace, although you can find chain
type and/or segmented ones that work for low clearance.

Some manufacturers are using a combination inlet/dip tube/anode that
require disconnecting the supply piping to remove.

In article ,
Paul Franklin wrote:

Changing it after it starts leaking is not going to help.

Changing it before it is all used up can certainly extend the life.
The trick is knowing when. The second trick is actually changing it.
Can be a real job to break it loose without damaging anything, and you
need a lot of clearance above to replace, although you can find chain
type and/or segmented ones that work for low clearance.

Some manufacturers are using a combination inlet/dip tube/anode that
require disconnecting the supply piping to remove.

Thank you both for the quick reply. I had asked a plumber and he seemed
to think that I should just wait until a leak develops. That is why I
posted.

While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As was
mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an anode
from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be even less
ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space. I have a
sneaking suspicion, that the cost of a new heater will be relatively low
compared to what it would take to get a plumber to inspect the anode.

Is a job like that one that requires an impact wrench?

Any thoughts on the economics?

Bill

--
Private Profit; Public Poop! Avoid collateral windfall!

Look at it this way. Which way is the plumber going to make more money?
Changing the anode or changing the hot water heater?

Wait, wait. I know the answer to this one.

Cost of a new heater relatively low? You haven't bought, priced, or changed
a water heater in a LONG time, right?

Steve

"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As was
mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an anode
from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be even less
ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space.

You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about half gone,
but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and has to be replaced.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As was
mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an anode
from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be even
less ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space.

You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about
half gone, but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and
has to be replaced.

How exactly is the water heater damaged?

How many have you damaged doing this?

Bob F wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As was
mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an anode
from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be even
less ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space.
You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about
half gone, but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and
has to be replaced.

How exactly is the water heater damaged?

How many have you damaged doing this?


Note earlier posts on difficulty of getting old anode out.

"LouB" wrote in message
...
Bob F wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As was
mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an anode
from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be even
less ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space.
You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about
half gone, but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and
has to be replaced.

How exactly is the water heater damaged?

How many have you damaged doing this?


Note earlier posts on difficulty of getting old anode out.

Anyone that has ever pulled anything out of anything old and untouched has
risked or done damage and has a surprise or two. Broken bolts, stripped
thread, twisted connections valves that leak by, and on and on.

Example: I helped my maintenance guys today. Last Thursday the were going
to pull a basin pan out of a water cooling tower and replace it with the new
one. Figured they would do one side in a day, the second side in less time.
They are on day 5 and were fabricating more parts this morning. Side two
will go easier since we know what parts will fall apart.

I've been working around mechanical things for the past 50+ years. ****
happens.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in
:


"LouB" wrote in message
...
Bob F wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As
was mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove
an anode from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I
would be even less ready now even if the heater were not in a
confined space.
You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about
half gone, but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and
has to be replaced.

How exactly is the water heater damaged?

How many have you damaged doing this?


Note earlier posts on difficulty of getting old anode out.

Anyone that has ever pulled anything out of anything old and untouched
has risked or done damage and has a surprise or two. Broken bolts,
stripped thread, twisted connections valves that leak by, and on and
on.

Brings to mind EFI fuel pumps in northern vehicles (road salt).

Pickup #1 - removal resulted in destruction of some other costly
gizmo in there as well as connections/tubing.
Pickup #2 - Above plus rim where it mounts therefore gas
tank NFG.

Both done by shops and not a vehicle hack.



Example: I helped my maintenance guys today. Last Thursday the were
going to pull a basin pan out of a water cooling tower and replace it
with the new one. Figured they would do one side in a day, the second
side in less time. They are on day 5 and were fabricating more parts
this morning. Side two will go easier since we know what parts will
fall apart.

I've been working around mechanical things for the past 50+ years.
**** happens.

LouB wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As
was mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove
an anode from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I
would be even less ready now even if the heater were not in a
confined space.
You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about
half gone, but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and
has to be replaced.

How exactly is the water heater damaged?

How many have you damaged doing this?


Note earlier posts on difficulty of getting old anode out.

The result seems to be anode not out. I saw nothing about damage that in any way
would affect the functionality.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As was
mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an anode
from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be even less
ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space.

You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about half
gone, but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and has to be
replaced.

Always listen to your gut, Eggie. I'd be reluctant to pull it, as right now
it doesn't leak, but you don't know it's condition. You pull it, but booger
a thread or something, and the anode is still in decent shape, now you have
to replace. I agree with Ed.

Let sleeping dogs lie. If you do not have a pan under it now, you MAY be
able to cobble something together to protect yourself. They always go out
at 3AM, and usually when someone's out of town. When and if you DO replace
it, do NOT cheap out and not put a pan under it with a good drain. BTDT
with two heaters I inherited. Well, I didn't cheap out, but the previous
owners did, and that much water plus a lot that comes in to fill the leak
wets a lot even if you find it quick. Can lead to mold, too.

Steve

SteveB wrote:
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As was
mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an anode
from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be even less
ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space.
You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about half
gone, but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and has to be
replaced.

Always listen to your gut, Eggie. I'd be reluctant to pull it, as right now
it doesn't leak, but you don't know it's condition. You pull it, but booger
a thread or something, and the anode is still in decent shape, now you have
to replace. I agree with Ed.

Let sleeping dogs lie. If you do not have a pan under it now, you MAY be
able to cobble something together to protect yourself. They always go out
at 3AM, and usually when someone's out of town. When and if you DO replace
it, do NOT cheap out and not put a pan under it with a good drain. BTDT
with two heaters I inherited. Well, I didn't cheap out, but the previous
owners did, and that much water plus a lot that comes in to fill the leak
wets a lot even if you find it quick. Can lead to mold, too.

Steve


Hmmm,
Ditto here. In my local area, I never saw a worn out(disappeared) anode.

In article ,
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

Anyone that has ever pulled anything out of anything old and untouched has
risked or done damage and has a surprise or two. Broken bolts, stripped
thread, twisted connections valves that leak by, and on and on.

Example: I helped my maintenance guys today. Last Thursday the were going
to pull a basin pan out of a water cooling tower and replace it with the new
one. Figured they would do one side in a day, the second side in less time.
They are on day 5 and were fabricating more parts this morning. Side two
will go easier since we know what parts will fall apart.

I've been working around mechanical things for the past 50+ years. ****
happens.

It is experiences like these that make me wary of inspecting and
replacing the anode. I am pretty sure I will get another few years out
of the heater. In the back of my mind is the thought of the effort of
taking out the anode only to find out everything was ok until I screwed
things up.

Bill

--
Private Profit; Public Poop! Avoid collateral windfall!

Salmon Egg wrote:

Anyone that has ever pulled anything out of anything old and untouched has
risked or done damage and has a surprise or two. Broken bolts, stripped
thread, twisted connections valves that leak by, and on and on.

Example: I helped my maintenance guys today. Last Thursday the were going
to pull a basin pan out of a water cooling tower and replace it with the new
one. Figured they would do one side in a day, the second side in less time.
They are on day 5 and were fabricating more parts this morning. Side two
will go easier since we know what parts will fall apart.

I've been working around mechanical things for the past 50+ years. ****
happens.

It is experiences like these that make me wary of inspecting and
replacing the anode. I am pretty sure I will get another few years out
of the heater. In the back of my mind is the thought of the effort of
taking out the anode only to find out everything was ok until I screwed
things up.

But wouldn't removal be more difficult the longer it is left? I need to
check, but I'm almost sure that the instructions for the water heater I
installed earlier this year say to check the anode every six months.

Perce

Salmon Egg wrote:

(...)

It is experiences like these that make me wary of inspecting and
replacing the anode. I am pretty sure I will get another few years out
of the heater. In the back of my mind is the thought of the effort of
taking out the anode only to find out everything was ok until I screwed
things up.

Nonsense.

Measure the flats of the existing anode and pick up a
matching socket for your breaker bar.

Using a Q-tip, daub under the head of the anode with Kroil.
http://www.kanolabs.com/

Do not spray directly on to your water heater!

Keep the Kroil away from hot parts, like the exhaust stack!
Use with adequate ventilation and keep Kroil away from open
flame.

Repeat the application every day for a week.

Shut off the water to the house; turn off the gas to the heater.
Open a hose bib in the front yard to relieve pressure
in the lines.

Use a couple damp rags to clean the dust and Kroil off
the anode cap and surrounding area.

Snap your socket on to your breaker bar and spin the
old anode out of the tank. It will still be hot!

Inspect the anode. Replace if unduly worn.
Decalcify if necessary.

Apply a THIN coating of graphite to the anode threads
using a pencil.

Spin the new anode back into the tank and tighten.

Shut off the hose bib in the front yard.

Turn on the water and check for leaks.

No leaks? Turn the gas back on and light the pilot.

Bob's your uncle.

--Winston

"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
...
Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill


Yes check the anode! To simplify the removal use a 6 point socket and a
breaker bar. I have found that heating the head of the anode with a propane
torch softens the pipe dope thy use at the factory to facilitate removal.

Check out this web site for the anode tutorial:
http://waterheaterrescue.com/

You can probably find the anodes cheaper if you hunt a bit.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

In article ,
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

But wouldn't removal be more difficult the longer it is left? I need to
check, but I'm almost sure that the instructions for the water heater I
installed earlier this year say to check the anode every six months.

If it were an easy job, I would have no problem. It is not. Typical
instruction also tell you to drain your heater a bit every few months.
That is relatively easy with just the presence of a hose bib and a
valve. Who does even that?

So after all that, I decided to not worry about the and and let the
corrosion do what is natural.

Bill

--
Private Profit; Public Poop! Avoid collateral windfall!

In article ,
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:


I've been working around mechanical things for the past 50+ years. ****
happens.

Saw a show about the water mains under NYC. They're over 100 years old.
Things need to be replaced to prevent future catastrophic failure.
They're afraid to touch the valves for fear of causing said catastrophe
immediately.

In article ,
Winston wrote:

Salmon Egg wrote:

(...)

It is experiences like these that make me wary of inspecting and
replacing the anode. I am pretty sure I will get another few years out
of the heater. In the back of my mind is the thought of the effort of
taking out the anode only to find out everything was ok until I screwed
things up.

Nonsense.

Measure the flats of the existing anode and pick up a
matching socket for your breaker bar.

Using a Q-tip, daub under the head of the anode with Kroil.
http://www.kanolabs.com/

Do not spray directly on to your water heater!

Keep the Kroil away from hot parts, like the exhaust stack!
Use with adequate ventilation and keep Kroil away from open
flame.

Repeat the application every day for a week.

Shut off the water to the house; turn off the gas to the heater.
Open a hose bib in the front yard to relieve pressure
in the lines.

Use a couple damp rags to clean the dust and Kroil off
the anode cap and surrounding area.

Snap your socket on to your breaker bar and spin the
old anode out of the tank. It will still be hot!

Inspect the anode. Replace if unduly worn.
Decalcify if necessary.

Apply a THIN coating of graphite to the anode threads
using a pencil.

Spin the new anode back into the tank and tighten.

Shut off the hose bib in the front yard.

Turn on the water and check for leaks.

No leaks? Turn the gas back on and light the pilot.

Bob's your uncle.

--Winston

Holy Crap. I wouldn't go to all that trouble if pussy was involved. When
the anode is shot, the water heater can't have much life left in it
anyway. I say, don't drain the heater, and leave the anode alone. Life's
too short to worry about milking an extra year or two out of a lowly
water heater.

Smitty Two wrote:

(...)

Holy Crap. I wouldn't go to all that trouble if pussy was involved. When
the anode is shot, the water heater can't have much life left in it
anyway. I say, don't drain the heater, and leave the anode alone. Life's
too short to worry about milking an extra year or two out of a lowly
water heater.

It's *almost* as important. Money is involved.
Written out, the procedure looks troublesome.
I rarely need more than about 15 minutes to do water
heater PM, once a year. It's simple and quick once
you've done it.

When the anode is shot, the water heater can't have much life left in it
anyway.

The idea is to stay on top of maintenance so to extend the life
of the water heater.

I say, don't drain the heater,

Good, we can agree on something.

and leave the anode alone. Life's too short to worry about milking an
extra year or two out of a lowly water heater.

How about an extra decade or two? Is that worth 15 minutes a year?

--Winston

--

"In an age of bodily repose, with nearly all locomotion artificial,
with money as the principal purveyor, it is not surprising that men are
careless about their physical powers, and think them hardly worth the
trouble which their full cultivation would entail."

Popular Science
_On the Artificial Production of Stupidity in Schools_
June, 1872

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:


I've been working around mechanical things for the past 50+ years. ****
happens.

Saw a show about the water mains under NYC. They're over 100 years old.
Things need to be replaced to prevent future catastrophic failure.
They're afraid to touch the valves for fear of causing said catastrophe
immediately.


I saw that show.

At work, we have a few dozen steam valves. The ones used everyday are never
a problem. The ones that get used once in five years always need re-packing
or re-building after that use.

On Aug 20, 1:59*am, "Roger Shoaf" wrote:
"Salmon Egg" wrote in message

...

Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill

Yes check the anode! * To simplify the removal use a 6 point socket and a
breaker bar. *I have found that heating the head of the anode with a propane
torch softens the pipe dope thy use at the factory to facilitate removal.

Check out this web site for the anode tutorial:http://waterheaterrescue.com/

You can probably find the anodes cheaper if you hunt a bit.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent..


I've checked mine a couple times so far with no problems. I think
folks here are looking at it from two very different perspectives:

1 - Checking it every couple years from the time the heater was new.
I'd start at about year 3. If you do that, the fitting will remain
easy to unscrew in the future and the risk of causing problems is low.

2 - Waiting until it's 10+ years old, approaching it's end of life,
and then doing it for the first time. In that case, I'd agree it may
be not worth it, as it could be very difficult to remove and could
result in more problems, eg leaking.


Regarding the advice to check it every 6 months, that seems very
excessive to me and I doubt any water heater company would recommend
doing it. The last tank I installed had no mention of checking the
anode at all. I think the position of many of the tank manufacturers
is that it should last about the life of the tank and doesn't need
checking.

And regarding that point, there are two schools of thought on the
whole issue of whether it makes sense to replace the anode or not.
It depends on whether you believe it really will extend the life of
the tank significantly or not. It's also possible that other
failure mechanisms will ultimately cause the tank to fail at about the
same time whether you replace the anode or not. In other words, the
original anode may be sufficient to prevent galvanic corrosion long
enough that it gets the tank to the time zone when other failure modes
unrelated to the anode are likely going to get it soon anyway.

On Aug 20, 8:19�am, wrote:
On Aug 20, 1:59�am, "Roger Shoaf" wrote:





"Salmon Egg" wrote in message

...

Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill

Yes check the anode! � To simplify the removal use a 6 point socket and a
breaker bar. �I have found that heating the head of the anode with a propane
torch softens the pipe dope thy use at the factory to facilitate removal.

Check out this web site for the anode tutorial:http://waterheaterrescue..com/

You can probably find the anodes cheaper if you hunt a bit.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

Salmon Egg wrote:
In article ,
"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

But wouldn't removal be more difficult the longer it is left? I need to
check, but I'm almost sure that the instructions for the water heater I
installed earlier this year say to check the anode every six months.

If it were an easy job, I would have no problem. It is not. Typical
instruction also tell you to drain your heater a bit every few months.
That is relatively easy with just the presence of a hose bib and a
valve. Who does even that?

So after all that, I decided to not worry about the and and let the
corrosion do what is natural.

Bill

Thanks for the reminder:-))

Lou

Winston wrote:

I say, don't drain the heater,

Good, we can agree on something.

and leave the anode alone. Life's too short to worry about milking an
extra year or two out of a lowly water heater.

How about an extra decade or two? Is that worth 15 minutes a year?

--Winston


Why not drain the water?

Lou

bob haller wrote:
snipped

new heater will be more efficent and cut future energy costs

DONT open plastic tank drain valves, they have ONLY one purpose to
drain tank atr end of life!!

How is a new heater going to be more efficient?
Is there a new way to heat water with electricity (other than microwave)?
What is the source of your valves comment?

Lou

I have successfully removed anode rods with an impact wrench. (Compressed
air powered like they use to remove lugs when changing tires.)

I wrote:

Anyone that has ever pulled anything out of anything old and
untouched has risked or done damage and has a surprise or two.
Broken bolts, stripped thread, twisted connections valves that leak
by, and on and on.

Example: I helped my maintenance guys today. Last Thursday the were
going to pull a basin pan out of a water cooling tower and replace it
with the new one. Figured they would do one side in a day, the
second side in less time. They are on day 5 and were fabricating more
parts this morning. Side two will go easier since we know what parts
will fall apart.

I've been working around mechanical things for the past 50+ years.
**** happens.

It is experiences like these that make me wary of inspecting and
replacing the anode. I am pretty sure I will get another few years out
of the heater. In the back of my mind is the thought of the effort of
taking out the anode only to find out everything was ok until I
screwed things up.

But wouldn't removal be more difficult the longer it is left? I need to
check, but I'm almost sure that the instructions for the water heater I
installed earlier this year say to check the anode every six months.


I misremembered: the instructions say to inspect the anode annually
*after the warranty period has expired*. In our case that is twelve
years. I had tried to remove the anode in the old water heater but was
unable to shift it with as much force as I felt comfortable applying.
That was a 6-year warranty unit that was 11 years old, so I replaced it
preemptively, since there is no floor drain anywhere nearby.

Perce

LouB wrote:

new heater will be more efficent and cut future energy costs

DONT open plastic tank drain valves, they have ONLY one purpose to
drain tank atr end of life!!

How is a new heater going to be more efficient?
Is there a new way to heat water with electricity (other than microwave)?


Better insulation. Electronic thermostats. For gas water heaters:
eliminate the pilot light.

Perce

SteveB wrote:
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Salmon Egg" wrote in message
While I do believe that a new anode could greatly extend life. As
was mentioned removal could be difficult. I once tried to remove an
anode from a used up heater. I was totally unsuccessful. I would be
even less ready now even if the heater were not in a confined space.

You'd really be PO'd to pull the anode rod, find it is only about
half gone, but the water heater is now damaged from the removal and
has to be replaced.

Always listen to your gut, Eggie. I'd be reluctant to pull it, as
right now it doesn't leak, but you don't know it's condition. You
pull it, but booger a thread or something, and the anode is still in
decent shape, now you have to replace. I agree with Ed.

How on earth are you going to "booger a thread"? These are pipe threads. Not
exactly fragile things.

On Aug 20, 10:23*am, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:
LouB wrote:
new heater will be more efficent and cut future energy costs

DONT open plastic tank drain valves, they have ONLY one purpose to
drain tank atr end of life!!
How is a new heater going to be more efficient?
Is there a new way to heat water with electricity (other than microwave)?

Better insulation. Electronic thermostats. For gas water heaters:
eliminate the pilot light.

Perce

That assumes of course that you choose to spend the money on a more
expensive tank when you replace it. However, if you have a modest
cost tank and replace it with a similar one, it's unlikely you're
going to save much energy. AFAIK, tanks are still available that have
pilot lights, no? BTW, how is an electronic thermostat supposed to
save energy over a mechanical one? I'd rather have the simple
mechanical one, instead of another more expensive piece of electronics
subject to surge damage, etc.

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Aug 20, 8:19?am, wrote:

DONT open plastic tank drain valves, they have ONLY one purpose to
drain tank atr end of life!!

Replace with full port ball valve.

In article ,
Winston wrote:

How about an extra decade or two? Is that worth 15 minutes a year?

Sure. Please cite a credible study showing that changing the anode
extends WH life by a decade or two.

LouB wrote:
Winston wrote:

I say, don't drain the heater,

Good, we can agree on something.

and leave the anode alone. Life's too short to worry about milking an
extra year or two out of a lowly water heater.

How about an extra decade or two? Is that worth 15 minutes a year?

--Winston


Why not drain the water?

Lou

I don't see a reason to do it.
As Bob mentioned, the plastic drain valve really isn't anything
to write home about. I couldn't stand the irony of causing
an easily predicted failure as part of my PM!

Note that the anode head and the top of the tank are both
steel and will not be damaged if one is moderately careful.

--Winston

On Aug 20, 1:36*pm, Winston wrote:
LouB wrote:
Winston wrote:

* I say, don't drain the heater,

Good, we can agree on something. *

* and leave the anode alone. Life's too short to worry about milking an
* extra year or two out of a lowly water heater.

How about an extra decade or two? *Is that worth 15 minutes a year?

--Winston

Why not drain the water?

Lou

I don't see a reason to do it.

Draining it periodically is supposed to remove some of the sediment
that collects at the bottom of tank and that inhibits heat
transfer. You can replace the cheap plastic valve with a real one
when installing a new tank.



As Bob mentioned, the plastic drain valve really isn't anything
to write home about. *I couldn't stand the irony of causing
an easily predicted failure as part of my PM!

Note that the anode head and the top of the tank are both
steel and will not be damaged if one is moderately careful.

--Winston

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Winston wrote:

How about an extra decade or two? Is that worth 15 minutes a year?

Sure. Please cite a credible study showing that changing the anode
extends WH life by a decade or two.

A quick Google reveals nothing along those lines.

However, _Your Mobile Home: Energy and Repair Guide for Manufactured Housing
By John T. Krigger, Marty Lord, Bob Starkey_
states that a properly maintained tank should last
"at least 30 years". Note that they don't put
an upper limit on longevity.

I've never had to replace a hot water heater that I've
maintained.

What is the most popular failure mechanism for a
water heater? Leaks. How do leaks start?
When corrosion converts exposed portions of the
tank to oxide because the electrolytic protection
has failed.

If the electrolytic protection never fails, what
is to prevent a tank from lasting a very long
time?

--Winston

wrote:
On Aug 20, 1:36 pm, Winston wrote:
LouB wrote:
Winston wrote:
I say, don't drain the heater,
Good, we can agree on something.
and leave the anode alone. Life's too short to worry about milking an
extra year or two out of a lowly water heater.
How about an extra decade or two? Is that worth 15 minutes a year?
--Winston
Why not drain the water?
Lou
I don't see a reason to do it.

Draining it periodically is supposed to remove some of the sediment
that collects at the bottom of tank and that inhibits heat
transfer. You can replace the cheap plastic valve with a real one
when installing a new tank.

There is a large area at the bottom of the tank to collect
sediment. Much of the heat exchange occurs further up
in the tank anyway:

http://www.homerepairforum.com/image...TAWAY_w550.JPG

The risk of sediment causing a leak in that valve is
really too great for my taste. It seems reasonable
that it is a 'single use' part.

--Winston

Winston wrote:
wrote:
On Aug 20, 1:36 pm, Winston wrote:
LouB wrote:
Winston wrote:
I say, don't drain the heater,
Good, we can agree on something.
and leave the anode alone. Life's too short to worry about
milking an
extra year or two out of a lowly water heater.
How about an extra decade or two? Is that worth 15 minutes a year?
--Winston
Why not drain the water?
Lou
I don't see a reason to do it.

Draining it periodically is supposed to remove some of the sediment
that collects at the bottom of tank and that inhibits heat
transfer. You can replace the cheap plastic valve with a real one
when installing a new tank.

There is a large area at the bottom of the tank to collect
sediment. Much of the heat exchange occurs further up
in the tank anyway:

http://www.homerepairforum.com/image...TAWAY_w550.JPG


The risk of sediment causing a leak in that valve is
really too great for my taste. It seems reasonable
that it is a 'single use' part.

--Winston

Thanks to both of you.

Lou

On Aug 19, 6:29*pm, Salmon Egg wrote:
Does it make practical sense to preemptively replace anodes in working
water heaters in order to extend their lives? Is it better to just wait
until leaking begins?

Bill

--
Private Profit; Public Poop! Avoid collateral windfall!

When I was a kid I needed an anode rod for a science experiment. Well
I went down to the local hardware store and while they had some the
guy there said I could save some money by scavaging for what I needed
at the dump. When I got there they had a section of the dump with them
piled up. I pulled a dozen of the things and there wasnt enough
degradation of any of them to mention.

Jimmie