Plan to pour concrete slab and build on top of slab...One row of concrete
blocks. The question I have - will mortar anchor blocks to concrete? or
should I put some anchors to tie blocks to concrete? How is this typically
done? TIA

HeyBub wrote:
wrote:
Plan to pour concrete slab and build on top of slab...One row of
concrete blocks. The question I have - will mortar anchor blocks to
concrete? or should I put some anchors to tie blocks to concrete? How
is this typically done? TIA

Where's it gonna go?

Idea: After the concrete is poured, wander around the perimeter poking
sections of rebar in the still pliable concrete such that about 8" is
sticking up. Lay your cinder blocks. Wherever there's a rebar, fill the void
with concrete.


Is this down south where frost isn't an issue? Not sure that would even
be legal up north here, other than maybe for a shed. IMHO, if a
structure is going over a slab, the slab needs footers. They could be
monolithic pour at same time slab is poured, with rebar hooks to add a
row of block to keep the bottom of wall dry. But if it is a real
building, I'd sleep better with a conventional foundation, and slab
poured inside and resting on the foundation ledges. That is how garages
and such have been built here in frost country for close to 100 years.

--
aem sends...

This is for shed and it is in "frost country" 42" frost line........the
concrete will be 4 1/2 inches with a 12" rat wall.

On Aug 18, 7:45*pm, wrote:
Plan to pour concrete slab and build on top of slab...One row of concrete
blocks. The question I have - will mortar anchor blocks to concrete?

"Anchor" is somewhat of a vague term, but that's what they use to set
bricks.

should I put some anchors to tie blocks to concrete?

If you're in an earthquake zone code might require it.

How is this typically
done?

As cheap as possible.

I think you may planning a project more than a tad beyond your level
of expertise. Unless you're building the most structurally
significant doghouse on the planet I don't think laying block is a DIY-
type thing.
-----

- gpsman

wrote

This is for shed and it is in "frost country" 42" frost line........the
concrete will be 4 1/2 inches with a 12" rat wall.

Dave, if you mean the ground freezes to 42 inches deep, you will not get
away with a mere 4 1/2 inch deep pour. Thats only for southern areas well
below the freezing zone.

"gpsman" wrote in message
.. I
don't think laying block is a DIY-type thing.

Sure it is but what I wonder is why he's only using ONE row of block. Then,
is there a bottom plate and stud wall above (attached to) that ?

Ifso, why use ONE row of block at all ..whynot just put the bottom plate
right on the concrete (with a gasket of some sort of course, in between)
with anchor bolts as in common construction practice.

Rudy wrote:
"gpsman" wrote in message
.. I
don't think laying block is a DIY-type thing.

Sure it is but what I wonder is why he's only using ONE row of block. Then,
is there a bottom plate and stud wall above (attached to) that ?

Ifso, why use ONE row of block at all ..whynot just put the bottom plate
right on the concrete (with a gasket of some sort of course, in between)
with anchor bolts as in common construction practice.


To keep the sill plate out of the puddled water or half-melted snow, of
course. Exterior wood wall should never rest directly on a slab. Always
give gravity a chance to take the water elsewhere. And even with a
gasket (which fails at some point), having sill at floor level almost
guarantees wet floor inside, especially if slab extends past the outside
perimeter of wall.

--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
news
Ifso, why use ONE row of block at all ..whynot just put the bottom plate
right on the concrete (with a gasket of some sort of course, in between)
with anchor bolts as in common construction practice.


To keep the sill plate out of the puddled water or half-melted snow, of
course. Exterior wood wall should never rest directly on a slab.

Not much of a builder would grade a lot to allow "puddles" right next to the
structure and if its a buildup of snow we're talking about, a single row of
8" block isnt going to keep much snow off the exterior wall.

I daresay there are thousands of homes built on "raft slabs" or post
tensioned slabs where the bottom plate rests right on the slab(gasket).

I' ve seen them framed that way in both timber frame (regular "2 by" and
also PTL) bottom plates and metal framed as well.

.. having sill at floor level almost guarantees wet floor inside,
especially if slab extends past the outside perimeter of wall.

Now that, I ve never seen- the slab shouldnt extend out past the wall(s) and
wouldn't likely be passed by a plan/building inspector.