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Default threaded wire connectors

Hi,

I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire. I can actually make a mean connection
with solid wires that professional electricians commend me on. But when
it comes to making a connection b/w the solid wires and one threaded
wire (as in a recessed light) I feel that the threaded wire loosens the
connection. It makes me especially nervous realizing that the junction
box is getting covered by drywall.

What's the trick in making a solid connection with a threaded wire? Are
there special connectors that can take stranded wire? For example, I
like the spring connections on speakers, but perhaps that's not
permanent enough for 120v since springs fatigue...

Many thanks for your thoughts in advance,

Aaron
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Default threaded wire connectors

Aaron Fude wrote:
....
I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire.


What's "threaded" wire??? You mean stranded, I guess?

with solid wires that professional electricians commend me on.


What's to commend? Put the wires together, put on the wire nut and twist...

it comes to making a connection b/w the solid wires and one threaded
wire (as in a recessed light) I feel that the threaded wire loosens the
connection. It makes me especially nervous realizing that the junction
box is getting covered by drywall.


_NO_ junction box should be covered w/ drywall.


What's the trick in making a solid connection with a threaded wire? ...


No real trick other than there's no such thing as threaded wire...

Just make the stripped length of the stranded wire about 1/3rd longer
than the solid. I've not looked; I'm sure there's a blurb on it at the
Ideal or other manufacturers' sites.

--
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Default threaded wire connectors

On Wed 22 Jul 2009 10:43:46p, dpb told us...

Aaron Fude wrote:
...
I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire.


What's "threaded" wire??? You mean stranded, I guess?

with solid wires that professional electricians commend me on.


What's to commend? Put the wires together, put on the wire nut and
twist...

it comes to making a connection b/w the solid wires and one threaded
wire (as in a recessed light) I feel that the threaded wire loosens the
connection. It makes me especially nervous realizing that the junction
box is getting covered by drywall.


_NO_ junction box should be covered w/ drywall.


What's the trick in making a solid connection with a threaded wire? ...


No real trick other than there's no such thing as threaded wire...

Just make the stripped length of the stranded wire about 1/3rd longer
than the solid. I've not looked; I'm sure there's a blurb on it at the
Ideal or other manufacturers' sites.


If you want a little more insurance, you can use solder to tin the twisted
stranded wire to basically make it solid. Then combine it with the actual
solid wire and you stand a better chance of achieving a better mechanical
connection within the wirenut.



--
Wayne Boatwright
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Never work before breakfast; if you have to work before breakfast,
eat your breakfast first. Josh Billings



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Default threaded wire connectors

Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire. I can actually make a mean connection
with solid wires that professional electricians commend me on. But when
it comes to making a connection b/w the solid wires and one threaded
wire (as in a recessed light) I feel that the threaded wire loosens the
connection. It makes me especially nervous realizing that the junction
box is getting covered by drywall.

What's the trick in making a solid connection with a threaded wire? Are
there special connectors that can take stranded wire? For example, I
like the spring connections on speakers, but perhaps that's not
permanent enough for 120v since springs fatigue...

Many thanks for your thoughts in advance,

Aaron


For many years I've used the Buchanan Four-Way Crimp Tool,
connectors and insulating caps. The tool crimps the connector
on four sides then a plastic insulating cap is snapped over
the exposed metal. These connectors are very reliable and
don't fall off if installed properly. Here's the best picture
I could find of the tool, connectors and caps:

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_C-24.htm

TDD




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Default threaded wire connectors

Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire. I can actually make a mean connection
with solid wires that professional electricians commend me on. But when
it comes to making a connection b/w the solid wires and one threaded
wire (as in a recessed light) I feel that the threaded wire loosens the
connection. It makes me especially nervous realizing that the junction
box is getting covered by drywall.

What's the trick in making a solid connection with a threaded wire? Are
there special connectors that can take stranded wire? For example, I
like the spring connections on speakers, but perhaps that's not
permanent enough for 120v since springs fatigue...

Many thanks for your thoughts in advance,

Aaron

Hi,
Do you mean stranded wire? I never experienced problem using proper size
wire nuts over the years as long as I remember. I think hiding junction
box with drywall is a big no, no. Think what is the reason you installed
junction box? Speakers? I use banana plugs.


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Default threaded wire connectors

I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire.


Use these with the built in set screw

http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc..._connector.php


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Default threaded wire connectors

Rudy wrote:
I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire.


Use these with the built in set screw

http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc..._connector.php



Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant stranded wire.


But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

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Default threaded wire connectors


"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
Rudy wrote:
I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire.


Use these with the built in set screw

http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc..._connector.php


Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant stranded
wire.


But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080


You are quite correct. All recessed fixture junction boxes do get covered
with sheetrock... and it's perfectly legal, as they are considered
"accessible"


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Default threaded wire connectors

In article , Aaron Fude wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080


Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by removing the
fixture can from its frame.
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Default threaded wire connectors


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with drywall,
what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080


Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.


I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some desk
jockey.



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Default threaded wire connectors

JC wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080


Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.


I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some desk
jockey.


It is not a "feel good" clause, it is to ensure accessability to all
connections so that problems can be located, not just for fires, but for
maintenance and troubleshooting. They box may never be opened, but if it was
hidden how would you even know where it was is it needed to be worked on.

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Default threaded wire connectors


"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...
JC wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes
be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.


I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you
that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main
power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some
desk
jockey.


It is not a "feel good" clause, it is to ensure accessability to all
connections so that problems can be located, not just for fires, but
for maintenance and troubleshooting. They box may never be opened,
but if it was hidden how would you even know where it was is it
needed to be worked on.


Oh, I'd probably look at a blueprint. Failing that, I'd probably use a
multi-tester and track to where a 120 suddenly shows a 240. Lots of
ways. Not to be obstinate but there is no really good reason to
preclude covering a box with sheetrock other than just convenience.
And, that's okay. But it is just a "feel good" measure.


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"Aaron Fude" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire. I can actually make a mean connection with
solid wires that professional electricians commend me on. But when it
comes to making a connection b/w the solid wires and one threaded wire (as
in a recessed light) I feel that the threaded wire loosens the connection.
It makes me especially nervous realizing that the junction box is getting
covered by drywall.

What's the trick in making a solid connection with a threaded wire? Are
there special connectors that can take stranded wire? For example, I like
the spring connections on speakers, but perhaps that's not permanent
enough for 120v since springs fatigue...

Many thanks for your thoughts in advance,

Aaron


When I do a stranded to solid connections I always strip the stranded wire a
little longer than the solid wire. Then I even up the insulation so the bare
stranded sticks out above the bare solid and use a wirenut (I learned this
from one of the guys on this group a couple years ago when I was just
starting out and it has served me well). Twist the heck out of the wirenut
and make sure that it is tight. Every connection I make I tug the individual
wire to make sure that it doesn't pull from the wirenut. If I think it has
the potential to vibrate loose I wrap a few layers of tape around the
wirenut and the insulation of the 2 wires. I haven't had a problem.

Shane


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"JC" wrote in message
...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant stranded
wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080


Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by removing
the
fixture can from its frame.


I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to locate if
there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you that during
the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a junction box
as one of the first things we do is shut the main power. I think this is
just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some desk jockey.


The code requires junction boxes for splices to prevent fires from occurring
due to faulty connections, and requires them to be accessible, so
electricians can make repairs. OTOH, people who put out fires, tend to use
axes, not screwdrivers to do their job


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"RBM" wrote in message
...

"JC" wrote in message
...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.


I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can
assure you that during the fighting of a fire we are not going to
be looking for a junction box as one of the first things we do is
shut the main power. I think this is just another "feelgood" clause
inserted by some desk jockey.


The code requires junction boxes for splices to prevent fires from
occurring due to faulty connections, and requires them to be
accessible, so electricians can make repairs. OTOH, people who put
out fires, tend to use axes, not screwdrivers to do their job


Bingo!



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"JC" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"JC" wrote in message
...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes
be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.

I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can
assure you that during the fighting of a fire we are not going to
be looking for a junction box as one of the first things we do is
shut the main power. I think this is just another "feelgood"
clause inserted by some desk jockey.


The code requires junction boxes for splices to prevent fires from
occurring due to faulty connections, and requires them to be
accessible, so electricians can make repairs. OTOH, people who put
out fires, tend to use axes, not screwdrivers to do their job


Bingo!


PS: And just to show you how brilliant that desk jockey that included
that in the code is, short two 12 guage wires together in one of those
blue plastic boxes and see how long it takes to obliterate it.

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Default threaded wire connectors

Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire nut
connections with threaded wire. I can actually make a mean connection
with solid wires that professional electricians commend me on. But when
it comes to making a connection b/w the solid wires and one threaded
wire (as in a recessed light) I feel that the threaded wire loosens the
connection. It makes me especially nervous realizing that the junction
box is getting covered by drywall.

What's the trick in making a solid connection with a threaded wire?


A box of wire nuts will say, "No need to pretwist." If you make good
connections with solid wire, I guess you know it's important not to
twist the wires clockwise first, as many do.

The trouble with stranded wire is that it tends to twist clockwise as
you screw on the wire nut. You may end up with slack under the nut, and
the nut may not engage all the conductors.

One solution is to make the end of the stranded wire solid by tinning
it. Instead, I twist the conductors together counterclockwise before
applying the nut. Screwing on the nut untwists them. As they untwist,
the threads of the nut should catch them all.

I test my wire-nut connections by tugging each conductor. Sometimes I
have to try again. With stranded wire, I've found wire-nut connections
more reliable than crimped connections. I can make a good wire-nut
connection where I can't reach with both hands.

I get by with three sizes of wire nuts. B-caps are especially nice.
They have room for the spring to expand, which can mean more pressure
and friction to hold large solid conductors. Friction doesn't seem to
be such a concern with stranded conductors.


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JC wrote:

"JC" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"JC" wrote in message
...



I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you
that during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking
for a junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main
power. I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by
some desk jockey.

The code requires junction boxes for splices to prevent fires from
occurring due to faulty connections, and requires them to be
accessible, so electricians can make repairs. OTOH, people who put
out fires, tend to use axes, not screwdrivers to do their job


Bingo!


PS: And just to show you how brilliant that desk jockey that included
that in the code is, short two 12 guage wires together in one of those
blue plastic boxes and see how long it takes to obliterate it.


I'm sure the desk jockey included requirements for circuit breakers that
would trip before the box got that hot.

If somebody piled confetti on a faulty connection carrying 20 amps, it
could reach kindling temperature. The box is intended to let that heat
dissipate.
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"Aaron Fude" wrote in message

Rudy wrote:
I've recently realized that I don't feel comfortable making wire
nut connections with threaded wire.


Use these with the built in set screw

http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc..._connector.php



Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with drywall,
what do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080


Mostly you're having problems with syntax: that junction box for that
light connection will not be "covered" in the code sense as long as
removing the fixture part exposes the junction box for the fixture.
It's still "accessible".
But the way you phrased it, without looking at your link, it sounds
like a junction box with wires into it wires out of it (nothing else, no
fixture) is going to be behind drywall completely. There would be no
way to even know where that junction box is located once the drywall is
put up. THAT is not allowed by codes!
As long as you can remove a wall plate cover, a light fixture, etc,
and it's removable by design, then you're all set. You can ACCESS that
junction box by taking the light cover off.
Now, if there is a junction box with wires going TO a light fixture
junction box, and the first junction box is not accessible by taking the
light's cover off, THAT would not be allowed, either.

Interestingly enough, I just discovered yesterday that I have two
junction boxes illegally installed in the celing - when the attic
flooring was put down, it covered two junction boxes. So you can't get
at them from the attic OR the bathroom; that's NOT to code; I'll be
fixing those when I redo the wiring so they're exposed from the attic
side; no big deal as the flooring picks up easily after removing a few
screws.

HTH,

Twayne`



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"JC" wrote in message

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with drywall,
what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080


Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.


I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some desk
jockey.


Not at all; you should read codes and avoid helping anyone with house
inspections.




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"JC" wrote in message
news
"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...
JC wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes
be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.

I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you
that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main
power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some
desk
jockey.


It is not a "feel good" clause, it is to ensure accessability to all
connections so that problems can be located, not just for fires, but
for maintenance and troubleshooting. They box may never be opened,
but if it was hidden how would you even know where it was is it
needed to be worked on.


Oh, I'd probably look at a blueprint. Failing that, I'd probably use a
multi-tester and track to where a 120 suddenly shows a 240. Lots of
ways. Not to be obstinate but there is no really good reason to
preclude covering a box with sheetrock other than just convenience.
And, that's okay. But it is just a "feel good" measure.


The vast majority of the time there ARE no blueprints on existing homes.
You're lucky to even find a written description of wiring sometimes.
A multi-tester will not tell you where a buried, inaccessible
junction box is located. In fact, there is almost no way short of
expensive equipment to even locate it to within a few inches of its
actual location.
The symptom would not be 240Vac; in a residential NA setting it would
be a loss of 120Vac 99.9% of the time. If it goes to 240, there is much
more wrong than an inaccessible junction box, which itself gives no
indication that it even exists, let alone where it is.
It's not covering a junction box with sheetrock that's a problem:
It's the inaccessibility of the junction box regardless of coverings
that is the problem. IF for instance the box were accessible from the
other side of the wall, ceiling, etc., then that's fine.
A "hot" junction box is not going to identify itself and in the hands
of a poor tech may result in an inability to even realize one exists;
while the house burns down that night. But if it's exposed it's easily
traced and found to be hot, by any competent tech with a current
license.
Read the code: It gives the reasons behind it. You're welcome to
your opinions but that doesn't mean others need to follow you or should
depend on you. Since you participate on this group I have to assume
you're involved with electrical work and thus are not credible or
reliable. Your attitude makes your comments questionable.


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"JC" wrote in message

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"JC" wrote in message
...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.

I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can
assure you that during the fighting of a fire we are not going to
be looking for a junction box as one of the first things we do is
shut the main power. I think this is just another "feelgood" clause
inserted by some desk jockey.


The code requires junction boxes for splices to prevent fires from
occurring due to faulty connections, and requires them to be
accessible, so electricians can make repairs. OTOH, people who put
out fires, tend to use axes, not screwdrivers to do their job


Bingo!


Bingo what? That doesn't make your faulty opinions any more valid.


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Default threaded wire connectors

"JC" wrote in message

"JC" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"JC" wrote in message
...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall, what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes
be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.

I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can
assure you that during the fighting of a fire we are not going to
be looking for a junction box as one of the first things we do is
shut the main power. I think this is just another "feelgood"
clause inserted by some desk jockey.

The code requires junction boxes for splices to prevent fires from
occurring due to faulty connections, and requires them to be
accessible, so electricians can make repairs. OTOH, people who put
out fires, tend to use axes, not screwdrivers to do their job


Bingo!


PS: And just to show you how brilliant that desk jockey that included
that in the code is, short two 12 guage wires together in one of those
blue plastic boxes and see how long it takes to obliterate it.


Obliterate what? The blue plastic boxes are irrelevant to anything
brought up in this thread. You're trying to change the subject. Do the
same with an ungrounded metal box; exactly the same results.


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Default threaded wire connectors


"Twayne" wrote in message
...
"JC" wrote in message

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall,
what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.


I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you
that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main
power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some
desk
jockey.


Not at all; you should read codes and avoid helping anyone with
house inspections.



I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please point
out the page that tells me that the point in question was NOT inserted
by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll never help anyone
with house inspections.


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Posts: 25
Default threaded wire connectors


"JC" wrote in message
...

"Twayne" wrote in message
...
"JC" wrote in message

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall,
what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes
be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.

I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you
that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main
power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some
desk
jockey.


Not at all; you should read codes and avoid helping anyone with
house inspections.



I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please point
out the page that tells me that the point in question was NOT
inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll never help
anyone with house inspections.



Correction, I have the NEC 2005 (NFPA 70). I might have a 2008
handbook or something. But, just open up the front cover and read it
for yourself. Desk jockeys, mostly desk jockey's with nothing more
than OPINIONS! I mean, come on fella, can you give me a good reason
why a National Electrical Code would have a disclaimer of liability
for those that follow the friggin code? Geez. They sit around a big
room and all of a sudden someone says something like this, "hey, you
know what? My nephew, who once worked for an electricians helper, said
that it sure was inconvenient trying to track down those dang junction
boxes when they are hidden inside walls. Why don't you guys make that
illegal?". And as they've never seen an electric wire in their lives
say "sure, what the hell".

I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet if it's
metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if it's plastic.
How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to the next,
along a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable. And once again,
if it's for safety, it's just a joke because I'll guarantee you, no
fireman is going to wonder around looking for junction boxes. So we
come right back to what I said originally, it's a feelgood reg for
convenience ONLY!




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Default threaded wire connectors

"JC" wrote in message

"JC" wrote in message
...

"Twayne" wrote in message
...
"JC" wrote in message

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall,
what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes
be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.

I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure you
that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main
power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some
desk
jockey.

Not at all; you should read codes and avoid helping anyone with
house inspections.



I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please point
out the page that tells me that the point in question was NOT
inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll never help
anyone with house inspections.



Correction, I have the NEC 2005 (NFPA 70). I might have a 2008
handbook or something. But, just open up the front cover and read it
for yourself. Desk jockeys, mostly desk jockey's with nothing more
than OPINIONS! I mean, come on fella, can you give me a good reason
why a National Electrical Code would have a disclaimer of liability
for those that follow the friggin code? Geez. They sit around a big
room and all of a sudden someone says something like this, "hey, you
know what? My nephew, who once worked for an electricians helper, said
that it sure was inconvenient trying to track down those dang junction
boxes when they are hidden inside walls. Why don't you guys make that
illegal?". And as they've never seen an electric wire in their lives
say "sure, what the hell".

I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet if it's
metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if it's plastic.
How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to the next,
along a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable. And once again,
if it's for safety, it's just a joke because I'll guarantee you, no
fireman is going to wonder around looking for junction boxes. So we
come right back to what I said originally, it's a feelgood reg for
convenience ONLY!


You've just done a great job of proving your lack of logic, forethought
and perception. Perhaps you need to stop doing anything for anyone but
yourself.


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Default threaded wire connectors


"Twayne" wrote in message
...
"JC" wrote in message

"JC" wrote in message
...

"Twayne" wrote in message
...
"JC" wrote in message

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , Aaron
Fude
wrote:

Thank you for all the responses and suggestions. Yes, I meant
stranded wire.

But to everyone who no-no'd covering the junction box with
drywall,
what
do you suggest I do about this junction box:

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/prod...px?sku=2319080

Don't worry about it. The Code requires that all junction boxes
be
"accessible". In this case, the junction box is "accessible" by
removing the
fixture can from its frame.

I suspect this restriction is so the connections are easy to
locate
if there is a fire. But, as a volunteer fireman, I can assure
you
that
during the fighting of a fire we are not going to be looking for
a
junction box as one of the first things we do is shut the main
power.
I think this is just another "feelgood" clause inserted by some
desk
jockey.

Not at all; you should read codes and avoid helping anyone with
house inspections.



I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please
point
out the page that tells me that the point in question was NOT
inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll never
help
anyone with house inspections.



Correction, I have the NEC 2005 (NFPA 70). I might have a 2008
handbook or something. But, just open up the front cover and read
it
for yourself. Desk jockeys, mostly desk jockey's with nothing more
than OPINIONS! I mean, come on fella, can you give me a good reason
why a National Electrical Code would have a disclaimer of liability
for those that follow the friggin code? Geez. They sit around a big
room and all of a sudden someone says something like this, "hey,
you
know what? My nephew, who once worked for an electricians helper,
said
that it sure was inconvenient trying to track down those dang
junction
boxes when they are hidden inside walls. Why don't you guys make
that
illegal?". And as they've never seen an electric wire in their
lives
say "sure, what the hell".

I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet if
it's
metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if it's
plastic.
How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to the next,
along a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable. And once
again,
if it's for safety, it's just a joke because I'll guarantee you, no
fireman is going to wonder around looking for junction boxes. So we
come right back to what I said originally, it's a feelgood reg for
convenience ONLY!


You've just done a great job of proving your lack of logic,
forethought and perception. Perhaps you need to stop doing anything
for anyone but yourself.


Perhaps you should try to find somewhere that I claimed to do anything
for anyone but myself before you get your whole leg in your mouth.

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Default threaded wire connectors

JC wrote:


I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet if it's
metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if it's plastic.
How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to the next, along
a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable. And once again, if it's
for safety, it's just a joke because I'll guarantee you, no fireman is
going to wonder around looking for junction boxes. So we come right back
to what I said originally, it's a feelgood reg for convenience ONLY!


I suppose with a powerful magnet I could find a metal junction box if it
were close to the surface, but how would I know it was the right box?

How would I locate a hidden junction box with just a multitester? How
much damage would I do if I cut my way to it? How could I be sure the
hidden box I found wasn't live?
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Default threaded wire connectors


"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
JC wrote:


I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet if
it's metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if it's
plastic. How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to
the next, along a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable.
And once again, if it's for safety, it's just a joke because I'll
guarantee you, no fireman is going to wonder around looking for
junction boxes. So we come right back to what I said originally,
it's a feelgood reg for convenience ONLY!


I suppose with a powerful magnet I could find a metal junction box
if it were close to the surface, but how would I know it was the
right box?

How would I locate a hidden junction box with just a multitester?
How much damage would I do if I cut my way to it? How could I be
sure the hidden box I found wasn't live?


Don't how *you* would. Perhaps you would call an electrician.

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Posts: 6,375
Default threaded wire connectors

In article , "JC" wrote:

"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
JC wrote:


I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet if
it's metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if it's
plastic. How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to
the next, along a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable.
And once again, if it's for safety, it's just a joke because I'll
guarantee you, no fireman is going to wonder around looking for
junction boxes. So we come right back to what I said originally,
it's a feelgood reg for convenience ONLY!


I suppose with a powerful magnet I could find a metal junction box
if it were close to the surface, but how would I know it was the
right box?

How would I locate a hidden junction box with just a multitester?
How much damage would I do if I cut my way to it? How could I be
sure the hidden box I found wasn't live?


Don't how *you* would. Perhaps you would call an electrician.


Or perhaps you're just making stuff up. Do tell -- how do *you* locate a
hidden plastic junction box with just a multitester?

This oughta be amusing...



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Posts: 25
Default threaded wire connectors


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "JC"
wrote:

"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
JC wrote:


I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet if
it's metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if it's
plastic. How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to
the next, along a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable.
And once again, if it's for safety, it's just a joke because I'll
guarantee you, no fireman is going to wonder around looking for
junction boxes. So we come right back to what I said originally,
it's a feelgood reg for convenience ONLY!


I suppose with a powerful magnet I could find a metal junction box
if it were close to the surface, but how would I know it was the
right box?

How would I locate a hidden junction box with just a multitester?
How much damage would I do if I cut my way to it? How could I be
sure the hidden box I found wasn't live?


Don't how *you* would. Perhaps you would call an electrician.


Or perhaps you're just making stuff up. Do tell -- how do *you*
locate a
hidden plastic junction box with just a multitester?

This oughta be amusing...


I'm not interested in amusing you. Try it and maybe you can figure it
out.

  #32   Report Post  
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Default threaded wire connectors


"JC" wrote in message
...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "JC"
wrote:

"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
JC wrote:


I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet
if
it's metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if
it's
plastic. How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to
the next, along a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable.
And once again, if it's for safety, it's just a joke because
I'll
guarantee you, no fireman is going to wonder around looking for
junction boxes. So we come right back to what I said originally,
it's a feelgood reg for convenience ONLY!


I suppose with a powerful magnet I could find a metal junction
box
if it were close to the surface, but how would I know it was the
right box?

How would I locate a hidden junction box with just a multitester?
How much damage would I do if I cut my way to it? How could I be
sure the hidden box I found wasn't live?

Don't how *you* would. Perhaps you would call an electrician.


Or perhaps you're just making stuff up. Do tell -- how do *you*
locate a
hidden plastic junction box with just a multitester?

This oughta be amusing...


I'm not interested in amusing you. Try it and maybe you can figure
it out.

Here, let me just set your minds at ease so you won't keep wasting
your time trying to claim that plastic junction boxes cannot be found
with a multi tester. I suppose there are hundreds of different kinds
of multi testers and perhaps that's why you just don't get it.

The SureTest® Circuit Tracers are powerful, versatile, easy-to-use
troubleshooting test tools for finding breakers and hidden wire
problems in residential/commercial/industrial environments. These
tracers work on energized and de-energized circuits. They identify
circuit breakers, find opens and shorts, and trace wires behind walls
and underground.

Each kit contains the same transmitter (TR-958) and test lead kit
(TL-958). The 958 also has the high-end Receiver (RC-958), adds an
Inductive Clamp (IC-958) with Battery Pack (BP-958), and a larger Hard
Case (C-958).

Features:

a.. Numeric value and audible signal provide quick and
easy-to-understand tracing feedback
b.. Receiver display rotates automatically for easy viewing
c.. Identifies breakers and fuses
d.. Can be used on circuits de-energized/energized 0-600V AC/DC
e.. Kit includes:
a.. Transmitter
b.. Receiver
c.. Tracer Test Lead Set
d.. Inductive Clamp
e.. Battery Pack
f.. Hard Carrying Case
g.. Batteries
h.. Instructional DVD
Spec Summary:

Transmitter
Operating Frequency: 32 kilohertz, fixed-amplitude,
time-modulated signal
Current Output of Signal: 200mA p-pmax into 50 ohm
Voltage Output of Signal: 30V nominal (2 watts)
Operating Voltage: 0 – 600V AC/DC
Battery Power: 1.5V x (4) AA batteries (NEDA 15A, IEC LR6)
Battery life: 40 hours open circuit testing / 25 hours short
circuit tracing
Indicators: On/Off, Line energized, Low battery
Receiver
Sensing: Magnetic
Maximum range: 15 feet underground
Signal response: Numeric display and Audible beep
Battery Power: 1.5V x (3) AA batteries (NEDA 15A, IEC LR6)
Battery life: 20 hours


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JC wrote:


Here, let me just set your minds at ease so you won't keep wasting your
time trying to claim that plastic junction boxes cannot be found with a
multi tester. I suppose there are hundreds of different kinds of multi
testers and perhaps that's why you just don't get it.

The SureTest® Circuit Tracers are powerful, versatile, easy-to-use
troubleshooting test tools for finding breakers and hidden wire problems
in residential/commercial/industrial environments...


Some people waste their time trying to claim you can't fly to Hawaii on
a bicycle. I suppose there are hundreds of different kinds of bicycles
and perhaps that's why you just don't get it.
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Default threaded wire connectors

JC wrote:


I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please point
out the page that tells me that the point in question was NOT inserted
by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll never help anyone
with house inspections.



Correction, I have the NEC 2005 (NFPA 70). I might have a 2008 handbook
or something. But, just open up the front cover and read it for
yourself. Desk jockeys, mostly desk jockey's with nothing more than
OPINIONS!


The code panels are electricians, contractors, inspectors, UL,
electrical engineers who design buildings and products. What would any
of them know about safe wiring?

We need the code written by the real experts, like JC.

--
bud--
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Default threaded wire connectors


"bud--" wrote in message
.. .
JC wrote:


I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please
point out the page that tells me that the point in question was
NOT inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll
never help anyone with house inspections.



Correction, I have the NEC 2005 (NFPA 70). I might have a 2008
handbook or something. But, just open up the front cover and read
it for yourself. Desk jockeys, mostly desk jockey's with nothing
more than OPINIONS!


The code panels are electricians, contractors, inspectors, UL,
electrical engineers who design buildings and products. What would
any of them know about safe wiring?

We need the code written by the real experts, like JC.

--
bud--


Obviously, YOU haven't read that inside front cover. You guys sure are
defensive. What's the matter? All I said was that I "suspected" that
this item in the code was written by some desk jockey. That's because
I've read the inside front cover. I did not say for any of you to
ignore this part of the code. I did not say any of you had to take my
statement as fact. I simply said what *I* suspected. And you guys all
got your tailfeathers ruffled as if you had been indicted or
something. Geez, I thought you might be growups on here. But not a
damn one of you was able to answer my question when I asked all of you
defensive sorts to show me where that part of the code was NOT written
by some desk jockey.

So, y'all huff and puff and blow off your steam and I'll stick with my
original suspicion. You guys would **** your pants if you knew some of
the people that write the various fire codes. Guess what? 90% of them
are NOT fire prevention techs in any sense of the term.



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In article , "JC" wrote:

"JC" wrote in message
...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "JC"
wrote:

"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
JC wrote:


I can find a hidden junction box within minutes. With a magnet
if
it's metal and with a multi tester (a bit more difficult) if
it's
plastic. How hard do you think it is to trace from one outlet to
the next, along a wall? It's not foolproof but it's very doable.
And once again, if it's for safety, it's just a joke because
I'll
guarantee you, no fireman is going to wonder around looking for
junction boxes. So we come right back to what I said originally,
it's a feelgood reg for convenience ONLY!


I suppose with a powerful magnet I could find a metal junction
box
if it were close to the surface, but how would I know it was the
right box?

How would I locate a hidden junction box with just a multitester?
How much damage would I do if I cut my way to it? How could I be
sure the hidden box I found wasn't live?

Don't how *you* would. Perhaps you would call an electrician.

Or perhaps you're just making stuff up. Do tell -- how do *you*
locate a
hidden plastic junction box with just a multitester?

This oughta be amusing...


I'm not interested in amusing you. Try it and maybe you can figure
it out.

Here, let me just set your minds at ease so you won't keep wasting
your time trying to claim that plastic junction boxes cannot be found
with a multi tester. I suppose there are hundreds of different kinds
of multi testers and perhaps that's why you just don't get it.

The SureTest® Circuit Tracers are powerful, versatile, easy-to-use
troubleshooting test tools for finding breakers and hidden wire
problems in residential/commercial/industrial environments. These
tracers work on energized and de-energized circuits. They identify
circuit breakers, find opens and shorts, and trace wires behind walls
and underground.

Each kit contains the same transmitter (TR-958) and test lead kit
(TL-958). The 958 also has the high-end Receiver (RC-958), adds an
Inductive Clamp (IC-958) with Battery Pack (BP-958), and a larger Hard
Case (C-958).


That's *not* a multitester.
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On Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:20:25 -0500, "JC" wrote:

[snip]

Or perhaps you're just making stuff up. Do tell -- how do *you*
locate a
hidden plastic junction box with just a multitester?

This oughta be amusing...


I'm not interested in amusing you. Try it and maybe you can figure it
out.


This sounds like the "evidence" for [supernatural being]. People keep
saying there's plenty of evidence, than fail to produce any.
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JC wrote:

"bud--" wrote in message
.. .
JC wrote:

I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please point
out the page that tells me that the point in question was NOT
inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll never help
anyone with house inspections.

Correction, I have the NEC 2005 (NFPA 70). I might have a 2008
handbook or something. But, just open up the front cover and read it
for yourself. Desk jockeys, mostly desk jockey's with nothing more
than OPINIONS!


The code panels are electricians, contractors, inspectors, UL,
electrical engineers who design buildings and products. What would any
of them know about safe wiring?

We need the code written by the real experts, like JC.



Obviously, YOU haven't read that inside front cover.


Obviously I have.

All I said was that I "suspected" that
this item in the code was written by some desk jockey. That's because
I've read the inside front cover.


If you had reasonable intelligence and read the make-up of the code
panels at the front of the NEC you would find they are electricians,
contractors, inspectors, UL, electrical engineers who design buildings
and products. That is, people who work daily with wiring and equipment
and are familiar with electrical safety.

Cite a code panel that is not primarily electricians, contractors,
inspectors, UL, manufacturers, electrical engineers who design buildings
and products.

But not a damn one of you was able
to answer my question when I asked all of you defensive sorts to show me
where that part of the code was NOT written by some desk jockey.


I answered your question.

The code is written by electricians, contractors, inspectors, UL,
electrical engineers who design buildings and products - people familiar
with electrical safety.



Time to fulfill your pledge:
"Could you please point out the page that tells me that the point in
question was NOT inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise,
I'll never help anyone with house inspections."

--
bud--
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"bud--" wrote in message
.. .
JC wrote:

"bud--" wrote in message
.. .
JC wrote:

I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please
point out the page that tells me that the point in question was
NOT inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll
never help anyone with house inspections.

Correction, I have the NEC 2005 (NFPA 70). I might have a 2008
handbook or something. But, just open up the front cover and read
it for yourself. Desk jockeys, mostly desk jockey's with nothing
more than OPINIONS!

The code panels are electricians, contractors, inspectors, UL,
electrical engineers who design buildings and products. What would
any of them know about safe wiring?

We need the code written by the real experts, like JC.



Obviously, YOU haven't read that inside front cover.


Obviously I have.

All I said was that I "suspected" that this item in the code was
written by some desk jockey. That's because I've read the inside
front cover.


If you had reasonable intelligence and read the make-up of the code
panels at the front of the NEC you would find they are electricians,
contractors, inspectors, UL, electrical engineers who design
buildings and products. That is, people who work daily with wiring
and equipment and are familiar with electrical safety.

Cite a code panel that is not primarily electricians, contractors,
inspectors, UL, manufacturers, electrical engineers who design
buildings and products.

But not a damn one of you was able to answer my question when I
asked all of you defensive sorts to show me where that part of the
code was NOT written by some desk jockey.


I answered your question.

The code is written by electricians, contractors, inspectors, UL,
electrical engineers who design buildings and products - people
familiar with electrical safety.



Time to fulfill your pledge:
"Could you please point out the page that tells me that the point in
question was NOT inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I
promise, I'll never help anyone with house inspections."

--
bud--


Well, I've already fulfilled that one as I've never, nor intend to
ever waste my time on inspecting someone's house. Now, why don't we
play like we're a bunch of 5 year old kids and see how long we can
keep this ****ing match tit for tat bull**** going? Want to?


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Default threaded wire connectors

JC wrote:

"bud--" wrote in message
.. .
JC wrote:

"bud--" wrote in message
.. .
JC wrote:

I have the latest code book. 2008 I believe. Could you please
point out the page that tells me that the point in question was
NOT inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise, I'll
never help anyone with house inspections.

Correction, I have the NEC 2005 (NFPA 70). I might have a 2008
handbook or something. But, just open up the front cover and read
it for yourself. Desk jockeys, mostly desk jockey's with nothing
more than OPINIONS!

The code panels are electricians, contractors, inspectors, UL,
electrical engineers who design buildings and products. What would
any of them know about safe wiring?

We need the code written by the real experts, like JC.


Obviously, YOU haven't read that inside front cover.


Obviously I have.

All I said was that I "suspected" that this item in the code was
written by some desk jockey. That's because I've read the inside
front cover.


If you had reasonable intelligence and read the make-up of the code
panels at the front of the NEC you would find they are electricians,
contractors, inspectors, UL, electrical engineers who design buildings
and products. That is, people who work daily with wiring and equipment
and are familiar with electrical safety.

Cite a code panel that is not primarily electricians, contractors,
inspectors, UL, manufacturers, electrical engineers who design
buildings and products.

But not a damn one of you was able to answer my question when I asked
all of you defensive sorts to show me where that part of the code was
NOT written by some desk jockey.


I answered your question.

The code is written by electricians, contractors, inspectors, UL,
electrical engineers who design buildings and products - people
familiar with electrical safety.



Time to fulfill your pledge:
"Could you please point out the page that tells me that the point in
question was NOT inserted by some desk jockey? If you can, I promise,
I'll never help anyone with house inspections."

--
bud--


Well, I've already fulfilled that one as I've never, nor intend to ever
waste my time on inspecting someone's house.


What a surprise - an empty promise.

Now, why don't we play like
we're a bunch of 5 year old kids and see how long we can keep this
****ing match tit for tat bull**** going? Want to?


What a surprise - no citation of 'desk jockeys' on code panels:
"Cite a code panel that is not primarily electricians, contractors,
inspectors, UL, manufacturers, electrical engineers who design buildings
and products."

Apparently you are conceding you are full of crap, as everyone has
concluded.

--
bud--
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